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OR 


THE MAN OF TONG AND HIS LAND 

By 

f. DYER BALL, m.r.a.s. 

M. CHINA iiK.R.A.S., ETC. 

CiTJil St'ivicc ( retii cd ) 

AurnoK OF “ rn[N('.s chinf^k/’ “the cei.esIiai and his religion” 



SECOND IMPRESSION 

lX)NDi)N 

THE RIHJGIOUS I'RTCI' SUCIKrV 

4 Bouveril Su'reet; <!<: 65 St. I'aul’s Churchyard, KA ' 

1912 






THE CHINESE AT HOME 




CONTEMTS 


PAGE 

PREFACE . . . « ® . xi 

CHAPTER 

I. THE MIDDLE KINGDOM . ^ * .1 

IL THE BLACK-HAIRED RACE . .12 

in. THE LIFE OF A DEAD CHINAMAN « . 21 

IV. WIND AND WATER, OR FUNG-SHUI ^ . 32 

V. THE MUCH-MARRIED CHINAMAN . .45 

VI. JOHN CHINAMAN ABROAD . « . 6l 

VII. JOHN CHINAMAN^S LITTLE ONES « , 72 

vm. THE PAST OF JOHN CHINAMAN . . .86 

IX. THE MANDARIN . . „ , .99 

X. LAW AND ORDER . . . .116 

XL THE DIVERSE TONGUES OF JOHN CHINAMAN . I29 
XIL THE DRUG : FOREIGN DIRT . . . I44 

XIIL WHAT JOHN CHINAMAN EATS AND DRINKS . I58 
XIV. JOHN CHINAMAN^S DOCTORS . , , I72 

XV. WHAT JOHN CHINAMAN READS . . . 185 

vii 



Contents 


CHAPTER 



PAGE 

XVL 

JOHN CHINAMAN AFLOAT 

• 

• 199 

XVII. 

# 

HOW JOHN CHINAMAN TRAVELS ON 

LAND 

. 212 

XVIIL 

HOW JOHN CHINAMAN DRESSES 

• 

• 22s 

XIX. 

THE CARE OF THE MINUTE 


• 239 

XX. 

THE YELLOW PERIL 

fli 

• 252 

XXI. 

JOHN CHINAMAN AT SCHOOL 

• 

. 262 

XXII. 

JOHN CHINAMAN OUT OF DOORS 


• 279 

XXIIL 

JOHN CHINAMAN INDOORS 

« 

• 297 

XXIV. 

JOHN CHINAMAN AT WORK 

* 

. 316 

XXV. 

WHAT JOHN CHINAMAN BELIEVES 

• 

• 331 

XXVI. 

NEW LIFE IN OLD CHINA 


• 342 

XXVII. 

WHAT MISSIONARIES HAVE DONE 

FOR 

JOHN 


CHINAMAN 


' 355 


INDEX .... 

. 

• 363 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


IN COLOUR 

THE LITTLE ORPHAN ROCK IN THE YANG TSZ . Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE 


BARBER . . . . . . .16 

A FEMALE ACROBAT . . . , . I32 

A BLIND SINGING GIRL AND DUENNA , , .192 

A PERFORMING MONKEY. . . . . 2 l 6 

A BLIND MERCHANT 286 

A PHYSIOGNOMIST ..... 340 

IN BLACK AND WHITE 

A CHINESE WATERWAY AND BRIDGE . . .2 

BRAIDING THE QUEUE . . . . .13 

A FAMILY GROUP OF THREE GENERATIONS . . 46 

A BRIDAL PROCESSION . . . . . c;i 


IX 



List of Illustrations 


FACING PAGE 


A MILITARY MANDARIN AND WIFE , . *54 

A FAMILY GROUP , • ^ . ,72 

A FAMILY JAUNT . . ^ , .72 

THREE DISTINGUISHED MANDARINS * . .100 

ROOM IN governor’s YAMEN . , , 100 

SHANGHAI : foreign MARKET . « . . 158 

EATING RICE . . . . * .158 

THREE WELL-DRESSED LADIES AND SERVANT . . 235 

A CHINESE CROWD AT AN OUT-OF-DOORS THEATRE . 281 

CHINESE GENTLEMAN’S GARDEN . , . 288 

THE DRAGON PROCESSION .... 29S 

THE GUEST HALL IN A CHINESE GENTLEMAN’S HOUSE, 

HONG KONG ..... 304 

A GAMBLING HOUSE . , « -314 

THE CHINESE BARROW ” . . » . 314 

SHANGHAI CITY TEMPLE * » . . 338 

STREET SCENE : PEKING « ^ . .349 

STREET SCENE : MOUKDEN . t » . 349 


X 



PREFACE 


T he Tong (or Tang) Dynasty was so splendid 
a period in the annals of China that millions 
in the south of that land glory in the name of 
Men of Tong. In the north another illustrious 
dynasty has likewise bestowed its name on other 
millions, who commemorate its bright annals by 
taking the name of Men of Han. 

The Han is noted chiefly amongst a literary 
people, such as the Chinese, as the epoch of the 
renaissance of their literature ; while the Tong, 
also renowned for its literary excellence, has been 
compared to our Elizabethan age of literature. 

These two periods of China’s history were not 
only renowned for literature : the Han, the reign 
of whose sovereigns extended from B.C. 206 to 
A.D. 25, was a glorious epoch, whether looked 
at from a literary, historical, military, commercial, 
or an artistic point of view ; and it was very 
fitting that its name should be used to designate 
its sons, as it was the formative period of 
Chinese polity and institutions, official and formal. 

Equally fitting was it that, the people of the 
southern portion of the Empire should appropriate 
the title of another great dynasty as a name for 

xi 



Preface 


themselves ; for it was during the Tong Dynasty 
(a.D. 618-908) that they, who had been con- 
quered before, were now completely civilised and 
incorporated into the Chinese race. Thus they 
have immortalised this most illustrious period of 
Chinese history and kept its memory ever fragrant 
during many cycles of Cathay, while at the same 
time their pride has been gratified by this con- 
tinual reminder in their name of the glories of 
a wondrous past. 

The author has dwelt amongst these Men of 
Tong for more than forty-six years ; he has studied 
their manners, customs, languages, thoughts ; he 
has seen their old-world civilisation, which seemed 
to have secured for itself an indefinite if not eternal 
future with this conservative people, one of the 
most conservative on the face of the earth ; and 
he has seen the bursting of the iron bonds of 
this old-time life, and the commencement of a 
new era of progress. The vision of an indefinite 
future perpetuating a never-changing order of 
things, death-like and stagnant, has changed into 
a living, active present, which presages good for 
the new future. 

Now that he has left all these changing scenes^ 
in the quiet of English pursuits he has found a 
pleasure in describing some of the many phases 
of Chinese life ; and he hopes his readers will 
have an equal pleasure in the perusal of these 
pages . 

His thanks are due to his wife for the great 
xii 



Preface 


assistance she rendered in the final preparation of 
the book for the press ; to the Rev. G. H. Bond- 
field, agent of the British and Foreign Bible Society 
in China ; and to the Rev. A. R. Buckland, M.A., 
Secretary of the Religious Tract Society, for assist- 
ance in the preparation of the last chapter ; to 
the latter Society also for the use of all the photo- 
graphs appearing in the book with the exception 
of one, that of the dragon procession. 

The unique coloured illustrations, with the one 
exception of the Little Orphan Rock, which is from 
a photograph, are exact reproductions of Chinese 
paintings. 

J. DYER BALL. 

Hadley Wood. 

1911. 




THE CHINESE AT HOME 


CHAPTER I 

The Middle Kingdom 

I S it possible by a few broad strokes to picture 
what is connoted by the terms China and the 
Chinese ; to summarise and compress in a few 
sentences and in general terms a description of 
the physical features of the country, the charac- 
teristics of the people, and their mental attitude? 
The task is a well-nigh impossible one, yet if 
impracticable, a few bold touches may whet the 
appetite for a fuller description in the following 
pages, when different aspects of Chinese life will 
come under review. 

China has two of the world’s greatest and most 
famous rivers — the Child of the Ocean (Yang Tsz 
Kiang) and the Yellow River — with hosts of other 
rivers so numerous as to be insignificant and com- 
paratively unknown in the Western world, though 
scores of them would rank in importance and size 
with some of the most famous waterways in the 

X 



The Middle Kingdom 

West, It has mountain ranges^ magnificent in their 
grandeur and scenery, rivalling any to be found 
in Great Britain or Ireland. It has immense 
plains, filled with a teeming population, and co- 
equal in extent with whole countries in Europe. 
It has thousands of cities, great and small ; vast 
hives of human workers, replete with life and 
vigour ; enormous provinces, each embracing 
scores and hundreds of districts or counties ; 
fleets of junks, fishing-craft, sea-going vessels, 
and river-boats, in such numbers that no one has 
ever totalled the grand mass, almost innumerable 
as they are, to be found at every seaport and 
each inland riverine or lacustrine city, town, or 
village. No country can compare with China for 
natural facilities of inland navigation. Its coast- 
line winds in and out, giving way in bays and 
gaining again in promontories, now merely holding 
its own, now nearly cut off at some peninsula, 
and then almost losing itself in the delta of some 
great river. Many small islands stud the Yellow 
and China Seas, the estuaries of the rivers and 
the lakes. Some are sacred with religious associa- 
tions, as Pu To, the haunt of Buddhist temples, 
or the Little Orphan, in the Yang Tsz. Lakes 
there are, not a few, amongst which the palm 
must be assigned to the Tung Ting (two hundred 
miles in circumference) and the picturesque Po 
Yang (ninety miles long by twenty broad). 

Such, then, in a few sentences, is China, form- 
ing one of the most extensive dominions ever 

2 



Early Civilisation 

All round China were barbarians. Surely, if 
the ancient Greeks had a right to call other nations 
by what is now considered an opprobrious epithet, 
the Chinese had an excuse for fastening such a 
term on their neighbours, who were inferior to 
them in civilisation, knowledge, literature, handi- 
crafts, and who further, on this account, derived 
the groundwork of their literature — written lan- 
guage in some cases — ^and civilisation from the 
great nation which lay in the centre of their 
world. 

The Middle Kingdom radiated its light abroad 
to what seemed in the olden days the uttermost 
parts of the earth, and sent its armies north, south, 
and west, and even essayed to cross the ocean to 
carry its victorious banners to success — those 
banners which in most of the conflicts with its 
neighbours led the way to conquering hosts. 

This name, the Middle Kingdom, taking its rise 
in ancient times from a state surrounded by others, 
has typified in its better later-day rendering of the 
Central Empire, the central position of the Celes- 
tial Empire in Eastern Asia, and also, as outlined 
above, the dentre of light and influence during 
many centuries in the past. The light of civilisa- 
tion has touched the Land of the Rising Sun 
(Japan), which in its turn is now repaying, by the 
lead it is taking, the Empire to which it is indebted 
for so much. 

This mighty Empire had been in the past self- 
centred to a very great extent. Her vast dominions 

5 B 



The Middle Kingdom 

have^ with their almost boundless resources, pro- 
vided well for nearly all wants, and nearly every 
wish of her people has been gratified. Is it food 
that is required for her teeming population? The 
myriads of tiny rice-fields lying along the banks of 
rivers, and climbing the hill -sides with their waving 
harvests ripening into golden grain under the fierce 
tropical sun of the south, feed the majority of 
her peoples, while wheat and millet in the north 
provide food for the almost starving millions who 
in north or south or east or west, if a crop fails, 
find themselves at once at Death’s door. 

To give variety to what might be considered a 
monotonous diet, numerous vegetables are assidu- 
ously cultivated by the ubiquitous market -gardener, 
whose ceaseless toil is rewarded by a great variety 
of greenstufifs and roots. Under the different climes 
of China a varied fruit crop is produced, as her 
ample dominions range from the cold north to the 
sunny south — chestnuts, walnuts, peaches, plums, 
and pears, as well as oranges, pumeloes, custard- 
apples, and many others. 

To add to the delights of the table, pigs wallow 
in the mire in every village street, and in poor 
men’s houses are as often to be found a;s in 
Paddy’s, burrowing under table and bed, while 
chickens are so common as to be even kept by 
the dwellers on the water in their boats. If his 
conscience does not forbid him, an occasional relish 
of beef may be enjoyed with the Chinaman’s frugal 
meal. Nature also provides him fish from the 

6 



Nature’s Provision 


rivers that drain his lands, and any one may catch 
them by any device he likes anywhere and every- 
where, by day or night, without let or hindrance 
or fee. 

Not content with the, fish which Nature gives 
him free, man further provides for his tastes by 
carefully rearing pond fish in those artificially con- 
structed adjuncts to nearly every village. More- 
over, the harvests of the fields are supplemented 
by an aftermath of finny tribes, which, introduced 
into the rice-fields, have grown with the grain, 
and (swimming amongst the stalks as these slowly 
shoot out of the water) ripen with its fulness of 
ear, so as to be fit to be a savoury dish to accom- 
pany the cooked rice on the tables of those who 
have thus providently prepared both ready for 
future needs. At the same time the harvest of 
the sea has been reaped by fishermen, who have 
braved the storm and typhoon to net their gains 
from the tossing ridges of the briny waves. 

Is it clothing that is wanted? The silkworm 
spins John Chinaman’s silk for him ; the cotton- 
plant furnishes material for his jacket and trousers, 
and the wild beasts their fur, and even the un- 
yeaned lamb gives its skin to keep the wealthy 
warm. For centuries everything needed for cloth- 
ing he has been able to find in his own land. 

Is it fuel that is required? Coal is to be found 
in abundance, though not so largely employed as 
by Western nations. Forests, by improvident 
felling, have receded to the remoter parts of the 

7 



The Middle Kingdom 

country, but they still yield charcoal and firewood 
and building materials in abundance. Minerals 
of almost every kind abound, and are largely used 
in arts and manufactures. 

So well provided thus in every respect is John 
Chinaman that he has hitherto needed but little 
from others to satisfy his wants or needs. 

As to things that more concern the mind j the 
range of literature has till recently satisfied all 
his mental cravings, so extensive it is, and so 
wide its ramifications. Trained within certain 
limits, John Chinaman has not cared, till of late, 
to range beyond these limitations, and so superior 
to all around him was what wa:s provided for 
his mental culture in his own land, that only 
present-day enlightenment has opened his eyes 
to the superiority of much of Western literature. 

The government of this mighty Empire has been 
elaborated by the people’s pwn unaided efforts, 
though doubtless based on ancient ideas which 
may have been brought with the first arrivals when 
they settled in their future home ; and admirably 
adapted it has been for an Oriental race, and 
infinitely superior it is to that of some of the 
other Eastern nations, while the civilisation of the 
people has developed, but little touched or affected 
by other races. 

As regards religion, the nation has clung 
tenaciously to its own beliefs through long ages, 
though largely availing itself of other faiths, some 
of them' in combination with its own. Its basic 

8 



A Self-sufficient Land 


elements are those of primeval times, such as 
ancestor worship, &c., on which a superstructure 
of ethics has been imposed, while, as heroes were 
deified, a hierarchy of state gods has been added. 
Blended with this in the native mind has been a 
system of ethics styled Confucianism. All this 
one may describe as purely Chinese, to which 
may also be added the mysticism of Lao Tsz, the 
founder of Taoism, whose mind may have received 
some enlightenment from the West. 

The distinctly foreign element came in with the 
introduction of Buddhism from India, which, 
though decidedly foreign, has had a Chinese 
impress fixed on it, and has been adapted to the 
requirements of the Celestial race. The latter- 
day idolatrous Buddhism overshadowed Taoism, 
which degenerated into gross superstition, and 
Chinese-like again borrowed from Buddhism idols 
and beliefs, the result being that the Chinese mind 
has taken over this mass of beliefs, and formed 
an amalgam, a sort of mechanical combination 
of all, which serves for religion. 

To summarise : John Chinaman, take it all in 
all, in the past, with but few exceptions, has found 
in his own Middle Kingdom all his wants 
supplied, as far as material conditions ai'e con- 
cerned ; and, as regards the kingdom of his 
mind, his own country’s sages and scholars have 
also supplied his mental diet, clothed his thoughts 
in fitting speech, and crystallised them into 
literature. 


9 



The Middle Kingdom 

In the Middle Ages, when the celebrated 
Venetian traveller Marco Polo penetrated to the 
uttermost parts of the world, his journey lay 
through Central Asia, This seemed the most easy 
way of approach to those old-time travellers, 
though others, buffeted by many seas in their frail 
craft, braved a course which brought them finally 
to the southern shores of China. 

In later days this last was the regular route 
taken by the East Indiamen, the merchant ships 
in the employ of the old East India Company, 
and in still later days by the New York tea- 
clippers. This course, as far as the Eastern 
world is concerned, is still adhered to by many 
a traveller in the present day ; but the Suez Canal 
has lessened the voyage from one of three to five 
months round the Cape, to one of five weeks, or 
less than a month if the steamer is joined at 
France or Italy. 

Our American cousins have laid iron tracks 
across their continent, so as to reach China by 
the Western Ocean— scarce ever ploughed before 
the last hundred years — and by this route arrive 
at the centre of the China coast at Shanghai. 

Last of all, the Siberian and Manchurian Rail- 
ways enable those who so desire to journey from 
Europe to the north of China in twelve or fourteen 
days ; and, when the line is doubled, the time 
may even be shorter. Thus the quickest way now 
is what was the longest way a short time since, 
and is almost a reverting to the old road to 
this Empire. 


10 



The Wandering Chinaman 


In ancient times the dwellers in the Middle 
Kingdom journeyed in their clumsy, lumbering 
junks far towards what was to them the utter- 
most parts of the earth — to the Persian Gulf, to 
the Arabian Sea and neighbouring countries. Then 
these adventurous voyages ceased, and next the 
stranger came to explore the mystic land of 
Cathay and settle on its borders, or rather coa^st- 
line, and, as the years rolled on, in ever-increasing 
numbers. Finally, the tide of emigration set ill, 
when John Chinaman began to people some of 
the waste places of the earth, and transform them 
by his skill and industry into lands producing 
wealth and valuable colonies. Gradually learning 
that all knowledge, civilisation, learning, and 
wisdom are not centred in the Middle Kingdom, 
students are flocking now to the Lands of the 
West, to acquire what they find is still wanting 
in their own highly -favoured land. 


II 



CHAPTER II 


The Black-haired Race 

T he Black -haired Race is a most fitting 
descriptive term for the people of China, 
who, to a man, have long, lank, coarse, black hair. 
One would infer that originally this was not the 
case. The little children have a brown shade 
in their locks, which also do not appear so coarse 
as when childhood has changed to manhood. This 
lighter shade is especially noticeable when the 
sunlight shines directly on their baby heads. The 
black colour has, however, been the national dis- 
tinguishing trait from the dawn of history, and 
it differentiated them from any blonde race which 
may have peopled Central Asia. Older Chinese 
myths and traditions to this effect receive possibly 
some support from this designation ; for were 
there no other race known to the ancient Chinese 
than their own, and were there no others with 
light hair, and thus different from theirs, one can 
scarcely suppose this name would have been 
applied to themselves by themselves. 

12 





BRAIDING THE QUEUE. 


The Queue and Its Care 

Yet for three centuries past most of this black 
shock of hair has been shaved off the head, a 
round patch only being allowed to grow on the 
top and the back of the head. This hair is 
encouraged to grow as long as possible, and is 
braided into a queue. This custom is a result 
of the Manchu conquest of China, for the victors 
made it a sign of subjugation that their newly- 
acquired subjects should conform to their fashions 
in this respect. The great esteem in which the 
Tartars held the horse was doubtless the reason 
for the adoption of this curious style of wearing 
the hair. 

So insistent were these seventeenth-century con- 
querors of the Chinese on the ra2or being applied 
to the top of the head (there is little use for it 
elsewhere), that failure to conform was cause 
enough for the wearer to lose his head. 

To the European in China the care bestowed 
on their long hair by Chinese men is one of the 
most curious of sights. No hair-brushes are used, 
but the hair is well combed out, as a rule, every 
day. It is difficult at first to think that these 
long tresses, three or four feet or more in length, 
belong to a' man. Carefully combed out by him- 
self or the barber, the hair is plaited into a long 
queue, in the common style of three strands, and 
eked out in length still further by a piece of 
cord till it reaches the knees or heels, and swings 
and sways with every motion of the body. 
Chaucer, in the “ Knight’s Tale,” might be de- 

13 



The Black-haired Race 


scribing the Chinese queue ; for all that is 
required is to substitute black for yellow, and 
change “ her ” to “ his ” in the lines — 

Her yellow hair was braided in a tresse 
Behinde her backe, a yarde longe, I guesse.” 

Thus suspended down the back the queue is apt 
to be in the way when the wea,rer is at work. 
It is then rolled into a knot on the back of the 
head or neck, or loosely coiled round the head 
or shoulders, and thus it is out of the way. This 
is the equivalent of our Western condition of being- 
in one’s shirt-sleeves, and the workman or servant 
hastens to uncoil and let the queue down when 
coming into the presence of his superior or master. 
When the owner is putting on his outer robe the 
queue has, of course, to be pulled out, as it lies 
down the back of the inner garment. 

The cyclist brings the end of his queue round 
from his back, and tucks it into his breast pocket 
or the top of his leggings, to prevent it being 
entangled in his back wheel. If the queue be 
caught in machinery, the poor Chinaman may 
be scalped. 

One of the most comical sights the author has 
ever seen was a row of Chinese sitting in a hill 
tramcar in Hong Kong. As the tram went up the 
hill at a steep slope of one foot in two, all the 
queues hung out behind the wearers at an angle 
of 45'"' 

These queues are the cause of the abundance 

14 



The Beard and Moustache 

of the barbers’ shops and itinerant barbers found 
in China. In the extreme south of China these 
men are invariably Hakkas.^ The calling of a 
barber is one of the most despised in China. Not 
until the third generation can the descendant of 
one be allowed to compete at the Civil Service 
Examinations. The other classes which share with 
the barber his exclusion from the nation’s literary 
contests are actors, yamen runners, and slaves. 

The Chinaman’s beard gives him but little 
trouble. His anxiety is rather the want of it ; 
for, like many Asiatics, his hair, except on the top 
of his head, is scanty in growth, and it is well-nigh 
impossible for him to grow a full beard. This 
may account for the origin of the custom, which 
has the force of law, of no one growing a beard 
till he is forty-five years of age. At that age the 
cultivation of a moustache is permitted. This 
consists, as a rule, of a few stiff hairs, forming 
a sparse fringe over his mouth. So proud is the 
gentleman of his moustache that he may often 
be seen carrying a tiny bone comb, hanging to a 
button of his coat. This he passes through the 
scanty hairs every now and then in public with as 
much nonchalance as ^ if he were simply stroking 

* Hakkas constitute the latest immigrants in the southern 
parts. They flowed into these portions of the land from the 
central provinces of the Empire. They were the last wave which 
followed the natural law that set the tide flowing from the north. 
This, during the last four thousand years or moi‘c, resulted in the 
gradual populating of the Empire from the northern regions in 
which the earliest arrivals in their new home settled, 

15 



The Black-haired Race 

his moustkche, as the Chinese old man is fond 
of stroking his grey beard. 

Some twenty years or so later, the Chinaman 
is allowed still more liberty, and he essays to 
grow what by courtesy is termed a beard. It 
consists of a scanty covering for the chin, scarcely 
extending to his cheeks. As to whiskers, a few 
tufts of long hairs may stand for them; but very 
often Nature is satisfied with what has already 
been done, and attempts no more in the way of 
hair on John Chinaman’s face. 

Should lie chance, however, to be favoured 
anywhere on his face with a mole which produces 
a few hairs, these are allowed to stick out, even if 
he has not arrived at the proper age to grow a 
moustache or beard. Thus tolerated, they look 
very odd on the bare shaven expanse of his broad 
face. 

The barbers are quite an institution in China. 
Barbers’ shops are open to the street— as, indeed, 
are nearly all the shops — and the whole operation 
of shaving, with the general mysteries of the trade, 
is revealed to the passer-by. No soap is used 
in shaving, but hot water is rubbed over the head 
and face, and then the razor is applied. 

How the Chinaman stands the torture of a 
scrape without the mollifying influence of soap is 
a mystery to an Englishman. One of the latter 
described to the author a shave he experienced 
d. ta ChinoiSy and the agony he underwent must 
have bben considerable. 

i6 




A HARIJKR 



Toilet Enormities 


Of recbnt years the more convenient foreign 
razor has come into fashion; but previously the 
awkward wedge-shaped Chinese razor, heavy and 
thick at the back, and coming to the necessary 
edge at the front, was employed. 

No paper is wasted on the operation, but the 
falling hairs are caught in a small tray. Hair- 
cutting is unnecessary, as what is not wanted is 
shaved clean off, and what is left is encouraged 
to grow to its full length. If the patient requires 
it, the delicate operation of cleaning out the eyes 
and ears is also undertaken. This is done with 
tiny brushes and instruments, to the no little 
eventual detriment of both eyes and ears. For 
the barber probes into the depths of the ears, 
with no knowledge of their intricate nature, and, 
with equal if not greater ignorance of the still 
more tender and delicate construction of the eyes, 
proceeds to turn the lids over and clean their 
surfaces. This produces redness and irritation, 
which is thought to be a sign that another visit 
is required to the untrained surgeon, with the result 
that often the eyesight is ruined. Similar results 
ensue to the ear, from the ruthless penetration into 
its inner passages. 

Another practice that the Chinaman is very fond 
of having his surgeon- barber perform on him is 
“ pounding the bones ” for aches and pains. The 
barber executes a tattoo on the back, or any other 
part of the human frame with his closed fists, 
to the delight of the sufferer. 

17 



The Black-haired Race 


The rapid growth of the hair on the parts that 
are shaven produces a rank crop, and this has 
to be kept down by repeated visits to the barber. 
The frequency, of these depends on the position a 
man occupies in society and on his purse. Excep- 
tion must be made in the case of mourning, when 
for weeks and months the head and face of the 
Chinaman presents a hideous spectacle, as all hair 
is allowed to grow then, till the period of mourn- 
ing is over. To add to this unsightly spectacle, 
instead of the red or black cord in the queue, blue 
in half or slight mourning, is worn in the south 
of China, and white in deep mourning. This, 
added to the black, coarse, lank hair sticking up 
in short bristles, is most ghastly. 

The Chinese calendar is full of lucky and 
unlucky days; consequently there are days when 
it is well to shave, and days when it is well to 
refrain from shaving; and due regard must be 
paid to these by the Chinaman who would avoid 
disaster. 

The price differs for a shave in different parts 
of the country, but a halfpenny in some places 
is a reasonable charge for the operation. Even 
this, or less, seems to be beyond the means of 
the beggar, who doubtless also thinks that, added 
to his rags and tatters, a' tangled mass of coarse, 
matted hair is more likely to draw a cash from 
the charitable. 

The strangest sight is to see a whole nation in 
mourning, and therefore unshorn. This happens 

i8 



Woman and Her Coiffure 


when the Emperor dies. Timely notice is gener- 
ally given before the official notice of this mourning 
is promulgated, so that every one goes to the 
barber, and gets a clean head, to start on the 
long period of abstention. 

The women allow their hair to grow all over 
the head. In girlhood it is plaited into a queue 
which hangs down the back; though of late years 
some of the younger women have worn their hair 
in a little knot at the side of the head, where it 
looks very peculiar. 

The coiffure into which the married women bind 
their hair varies much with the place, the fashion, 
and the position of the wearer. As a rule, the 
hair is plastered down over the head with a 
gelatinous gum made by soaking the shavings of 
a certain tree in water. This shows off the 
contour of the head to advantage. With Can- 
tonese working -women, or those of a lower order 
of society, the hair is often made into a little knob 
at the back of the head. This is varied by others, 
and sometimes by those a little higher in the social 
scale, by an approach to two wings at the sides 
of the head, and at the back to what looks like 
the handle of a teapot. This style was worn by 
the most fashionable some fifty years ago in a 
very e.xaggerated form. A quieter mode now 
prevails, though eccentricities reveal themselves 
every now and then. The styles differ widely in 
different districts of the country, the author having 
seen in Soo-Chow long love -locks hanging down 
the sides of the cheeks. 


19 



The Black-haired Race 


Little boys often have all the hair shaved off, or 
sometimes it is left growing, and tied into two 
tufts on the sides of the head. When a clean poll 
is the boy’s style, then he is dubbed, in pleasant 
badinage^ “ monk,” as the Buddhist priests or 
monks have all the hair shaven off their heads. 

When the more elaborate way of dressing the 
hair is in favour, the coiffure has to last for 
several days. At night the woman sleeps with 
the back of the neck on a hard earthen or bamboo 
or softer leather pillow, for fear of disarranging 
what has taken much art, labour, and time to 
accomplish. No frames or pads are used by the 
women in doing up the hair, nor is false hair 
employed, except when absolutely necessary to hide 
baldness. No hair-brushes are used; the hair is 
combed. The combs are generally of wood. 

Most women apply a scent, which has rather an 
unpleasant odour, to the hair ; but it must be liked 
by the Chinese, though the author has come across 
one Chinese gentleman who thought it disagree- 
able. The blind singing-girls have their back 
hair done into a long arrangement, which is 
stiffened, so that it sticks straight down the back 
for about a foot. 


20 



CHAPTER III 


The Life of a Dead Chinaman 

I T may well be said of the Chinese, “ The dead 
ye have always with you.” Beyond the 
suburbs of the living- cities, a vast necropolis in 
every case is to be found, rivalling, in the number 
of its inhabitants, the living population which has 
supplied for scores of years and centuries the future 
inmates for its silent dwellings. 

In China, strange in so many of its customs 
and so many of its ideas, the dead rule the living 
in thought; they rule them in custom; they rule 
them throughout their lives, by fear and the dread 
of calamity, if everything is not done to propitiate 
•them—an obsession at times too awful for words. 

The paradoxical reigns supreme in Chinese life, 
and it is not seldom the case that an individual 
insignificant in life becomes influential by ceasing 
to live. Near Chao Chow Fu there is an imposing 
grave, which one passes on the road to the city. 
A double row of animals leads up to it. It seems 
that originally this was only an ordinary grave, 
with nothing special to mark it out as different 

21 c 



The Life of a Dead Chinaman 


from the hundreds that lie on the hill-side or plain, 
“ where heaves the turf in many a m'ould’ring, 
heap/’ Now it is sought by many who, when he 
was alive, would not have given a passing thought 
to the humble and insignificant individual whose 
body sleeps in this narrow cell. Now, according 
to popular belief, his hands sway the course of 
destiny, in response to those who have known how 
to provide for his posthumous comfort by placing 
his grave in a good position, in fact, as governed 
by the laws of fiing-shui. 

The Chinese have a proverb that “ The most 
important thing in life is to be buried well.” A 
new idea is, in this connection, imported into the 
old Hebrew saying, that the day of death is better 
than the day of one’s birth ” (Ecclesiastes vii. i). 

The most of us think one soul is quite enough to 
look after. The Chinaman has three — at least he 
believes he has — besides seven animal spirits, all 
centred in his being. A dissolution occurs on his 
demise, and his souls are scattered. One goes to 
the future world to receive the rewards or punish- 
ments due for the deeds done in the body, one 
remains at the grave, and one goes into the 
ancestral tablet. This last is an article made of 
several pieces of wood, fitted together, on the 
outside and inside of which are written the names, 
titles, and dates of birth and death of the deceased. 
The tablet is set up, among wealthy and large 
families and clans, in the ancestral hall. 

This hall is a building forming a general 
22 



The Soul, the Man, and the Clan 

rendezvous for the family, and a centre for the 
transaction of business pertaining to the fatnily 
or clan. Large estates are sometimes held in 
trust for the good of all belonging to the 
family, and financial considerations bind to- 
gether the scattered members of the clan, as 
well as ties of kindred. To be expelled from* the 
clan is felt to be a keen disgrace ; and this 
ostracism carries with it the penalty of being cut 
off from all the privileges appertaining to the 
clan — help in time of need, sustenance in old age, 
support in difficulty, and fellowship and friendship. 

In this clanship and in the ancestor worship 
lies the stronghold of the old system. It is a com- 
paratively easy matter to give up the ordinary 
worship of idols ; that is not engrained in the 
Chinaman’s nature. But — even if he sees the 
absurdity of a tripartite soul, coexistent and re- 
quiring separate habitations when the body, which 
was the common lodging-house of all, has become 
uninhabitable by the effluxion of time and decay — 
nevertheless, with what one writer has described as 
the turbidity of the Chinese mind, he accepts it 
and clings to it. What ho^ds him with a firmer 
grip than mere faith in it is a knowledge of the 
dire consequences which would ensue, were he to 
act upon a belief in the absurdity of the whole 
matter. The excommunication from his clan is 
so serious a thing that he hesitates to make himself 
an outcast. With no old age pension or poor- 
house to fall back upon, if he goes ; and with the 

^3 



Tlie Life of a Dead Chinaman 

glatoour and substantial results accruing from 
office and literary distinction before him if he stays^, 
the consequences of revolt are serious enough. 
If the conscience does not hold supreme sway 
over his being, principles are apt to go by the 
board. 

Filial piety is supposed to be the motive power 
for the reverence of the dead. Not for a moment 
would the author deny this virtue as a factor in 
Chinese ancestral worship ; but, after all that can 
be said for this aspect of the case, it still remains 
that one of the chief and most potent causes of 
the reverence and worship of the dead in China is 
fear of what might result from' not propitiating 
the departed spirits. 

Another contributory cause is “ olo custom,” 
which rules with stronger sway in the East than in 
the West. 

To understand the origin of this curious cult, we 
must go back to the infancy of nations. Chris- 
tianity,^ with the higher civilisation it has brought 
with it, has caused us to leave such things behind ; 
for, nations as well as man when in the child state 
spake as a child, understood as a child, and thought 
as a child. China, with its reverence for the dead 
past, with its ultra-conservatism, with its rigid 
adherence to the custom's sanctioned by antiquity, 
has clung to ancestor worship, which most of the 
other nations of the world have long grown out of. 

But though ancestor Worship be a survival of 
the most primitive times, a relic of early religion, 

24 



A Supreme Duty 

with the Chinese it is at the root of all things ; it 
permeates nearly everything. It is so woven into 
the warp and woof of human existence in the Far 
East that it even seems to be an integral part of 
the human being. Follow up any subject to its 
origin, to its present motive force, to its raison 
d^etrCy and the chances are that lying hidden at the 
root of the matter is ancestor worship. From' the 
Emperor on his throne down to the meanest of his 
subjects, the influence of this cult makes itself 
felt in ways the most incomprehensible to one 
who has been brought up and lived under totally 
different conditions on the other side of the globe. 

Of late years a succession of minors has 
ascended the throne in China. Ancestral worship 
is the cause of this ; for, it would never do for 
the new monarch, who has to worship his pre- 
decessor, to perfoi*m the ancestral rites in honour 
of one younger than himself. 

Not seldom the sentence passed on some prisoner 
is light, as compared with the just reward for his 
crimes laid down in the statute-book ; and why? 
Because ancestral worship puts in a more power- 
ful plea for, mitigation of sentence than any other 
circumstances which law could take cognisance of, 
or lawyers could think of, in a country where 
lawyers as such are unknown. All that is neces- 
sary is that the culprit claim to be the one w^ho 
should offer the sacrifices to the man,es of his 
deceased parents. 

This custom affects the eldest son, or, more 

25 



The Life of a Dead Chinaniaii 

especially;, an only son. The plea of being the only 
son, and consequently the only support of an aged 
mother, is constantly advanced in Hong Kong 
courts of justice. It receives the scant attention 
ouil customs accord to such a reason for the 
mitigation of sentence or for an unqualified pardon. 
In a Chinese court, it would, if proved true, be 
acted on. The ultimate cause of many a social 
custom, rule of etiquette, code of action, is found 
to be based on this principle ; and most rigid is 
the conformity required to its minutest maxims, 
upon which to a large extent the fabric of society 
is based. 

It is absolutely necessary, for example, that a 
man have a son to perform' the pious rites for 
him ; hence, from the Chinese point of view, a 
sufficient reason for polygamy. If, after marriage, 
no infant of the required sex aippears to perform 
the sacrifices and offer the prayers to the father, 
when deceased, which is the prerogative of the 
eldest son, then a concubine or secondary wife, or 
subintrodacta mulier^ is procured, to fulfil the hopes 
of every married man. For this reason nearly 
every man, with the rarest exception, is married in 
China, and nearly every woman too. Should the 
second wife thus taken only increase the family by 
daughters, or should she prove childless, a third 
wife is added, and so on till the desired end is 
attained. Failing all issue, a relative may be 
adopted, to fulfil the functions of a son. If this 
be impossible, an outsider may be taken in to fill 

26 



The Three Souls 

the place of a son. Here, then, is the chief reason 
for the semi-legalised concubinage in vogue in 
China. 

Again, the tie that binds the wandering Celestial 
to his homeland is ancestral worship ; nor is the 
tie broken by death. In life he returns, if possible, 
from distant climes to worship at the tombs, and 
see his ancient mother, and incidentally his wife, 
who perhaps has been married to him in his 
absence. At death his coffined bones are returned 
to be buried at his ancestral home, where due 
reverence may be paid to his spirits, for their good 
and that of his descendants. Long and tedious arc 
the journeys of these sacred remains from one end 
of the Empire to the other, so that, though a man 
may have died far from’ home, his remains shall 
not be absent from their right resting-place at 
last. I 

If a Chinaman finds three souls a handful, what 
must his descendants feel with his three on their 
hands 1 The seven animal spirits are evidently of 
little account after death, as these grosser parts 
of his spiritual nature shrink, shrivel up, and revert 
at death to their original elements, and sink to 
earth, but all three souls have to be propitiated 
with ofTerings to meet their wants. The Chinese 
believe that neglect will bring to the family in its 
train misery, wretchedness, jpenury, and want, and 

* The author knows of at least one instance where a friend or 
relative brought the bones back mingled with other effects 
in a box. 


27 



The Life of a Dead Chinaman 

the loss of what they mi^ht otherwise have in- 
herited in the way of official emoluments and 
literary distinction. 

For burial, “ a low position, where the soil is 
damp/’ is to be avoided, as white ants would soon 
riddle such a coffin in such a place, to say nothing 
of the body lying in moisture. Such a condition of 
the coffin, ‘‘it is believed, the dead resent with a 
fierce and bitter feeling, that seems to set them' in 
the wildest hostility to the friends who are 
responsible for this state of things ; and in the 
Land of Shadows they plan how they shall be 
revenged upon those who have shown so little feel- 
ing for them as to bury them in such a position.’’ 
Any proximity of large trees is considered to be 
specially obnoxious to the occupants of graves. 
It seems that the waving of the branches during a 
storm, and the sighing of winds through them, 
produce stich doleful sensations that the spirits 
are apt to get irritated, and by and by “ vent their 
wrath by hurling calamities on the living.” 

Thus the dead to-day all over China: hold the 
living within their grip. They are believed in some 
mysterious way to have the ability to change the 
destinies of a family. They can raise it from 
poverty and meanness to wealth and the most 
exalted position ; but if they are' neglected, and 
offerings not made to the'm at the regular seasons, 
they will take away houses and lands from it, and 
turn the members of it into beggars. 

The worship at the tombs takes place twice a 
28 



Worship at the Tombs 


year, in spring and autumn, but spring is the 
time par excellence consecrated to the purpose. 
The family reunion round the graves to worship 
takes somewhat the place of our summer outings. 
From far and near they gather. Boats and chairs, 
or their own legs, carry the family party to the 
unenclosed hill, where, amidst possibly myriads 
of other graves, and surroimded by numerous 
groups of other worshippers, they spread out the 
meats and vegetables and cakes in bowls and 
dishes ; light the candles and incense-sticks ; put 
fresh turf on the little hillock ; or clean up the 
horseshoe-shaped grave. These outings are a 
combination of business with pleasure, and, the 
serious business over, an agreeable little picnic 
follows . 

That the souls of the departed are in the direst 
straits, unless attended to, is the firm belief of ihe 
Chinese. On the Chinese “ All Souls’ Day ” pro- 
visions in tempting array are laid out for them to 
consume, while all sorts of articles are forwarded 
to them in the other world, being sublimated by the 
mysterious influence of the element of fire. In 
plain language, what in our lands would be called 
dolls’ houses, made of bamboo and paper, boats, 
sedan-chairs, furniture, all constructed of such 
flimsy materials and only made to be thus burned, 
are sent by the fire and their ashes into ghost-land. 
Even paper men and women ai'e also despatched, 
to make the establishment complete, and, that all 
necessaries may be procured, paper to represent 

29 



The Life of a Dead Chinaman 


money is also forwarded by the same potent means. 
From all this it will be seen that in the Chinese 
mind the future life is merely a projection of this 
existence on to another plane of life. In the nether 
regions a replica of this world appears as far 
as life, occupation, and motives are concerned, the 
only difference being apparently that it is a land 
of shades and darkness. 

The courts of the Kings of the Ghosts are a 
reproduction of those of Chinese mandarins, the 
attendants, like their prototypes on earth, are fierce 
and cruel, but fiercer and more cruel than earthly 
ones, as the punishments in the majority of cases 
are conceived in the spirit of tyrants. It is 
supposed by some that the normal period for life 
in this purgatory is sixteen years, by, which time 
it is apparently thought that, purged of their 
iniquities, those who have passed through it are 
ready for another period of existence on earth. 
Then, if their misdeeds in a former life deserve 
it, their punishment is still continued, by their 
having to descend lower in the scale of existence. 
Thus a man may be bom as an ox, or begin 
life anew as a woman. The worst become worms, 
insects, and reptiles. The good, on the contrary, 
ascend in the scale, being born into a higher station 
in life ; or they may ascend even to the skies 
as demi-gods. 

This belief in the transmigration of souls is one 
reason for the abstention from flesh by many in 
the Celestial Empire. No one knows how many 

30 



Man and the Unknown 

lives a dead Chinaman is supposed to live again. 
The nine lives of a cat pale into utter "insignificance 
beside the possibilities which open out before him. 
But the worst of it is, he, as a rule, Tias no 
remembrance of the past, though Buddha recounted 
his experiences in the different bodies he passed 
through (between five and six hundred altogether). 

The Chinese have made many attempts to lift 
the dark curtain that hides the future from’ mortal 
ken. The “ theories are oftentimes vague and 
contradictory, and when they are put to the touch 
of logic they fail utterly before its tests. They 
are as brave an effort, however, as has ever been 
made by any heathen people to construct a system 
that shall try and satisfy the cravings of the human 
heart about the unknown- They are profoundly 
human, and an exalted vein of righteousness runs 
throughout them. There is no paltering with evil, 
and no elevation of vice or impurity, and icven 
their ideal ruler of the Land of Shadows, stern 
and severe as he is represented to be, can always 
unbend before the exhibition of goodness in any 
of the spirits under his control.” ^ 

* Maegowan, Sidelights on Chinese Life, p. 223. 


31 



CHAPTER IV 


Wind, and Water, or “Fung-Shui” 

O F. all the vagaries which the human mind 
has evolved from its inner consciousness, the 
palm must surely be given to the mass of rules 
for the guidance of the believer in fang-shui. 
About 400,000,000 of our fellow -men are believers 
in it. It doubtless had its origin in the observation of 
some of the operations of Nature by an ignorant and 
unscientific people, who, unable to assign correct 
causes for effects, have let their fancy lead them 
astray. A remembrance of the prehistoric monsters 
in the shape of a dragon (a green dragon), a tiger * 
(a white tiger), combined with the five elements, 
the male and female principles, the four points 
of the compass, the ten celestial stems, the twelve 
horary characters— all these and other elements 
are united together as a basis for the wildest 
imaginings. A favourable situation for a grave, 
or a house, or a piece of land, are matters in which 
fang-shui is important. It determines also 
“ whether in repairing a house, in building at 

' Tigers are still found in many parts of the Empire. 

32 



A Troublesome System 

cemeteries, in moving an old grave, or opening 
a new one/’ in building a wall, “or in doing any- 
thing involving the displacement of earth, any 
hindrance exists to the work being proceeded 
with.” Some persons may not use fungrshui in 
all these matters ; but “ in everything connected 
with graves the universal custom is to employ ” it.* 

In addition to this, till recently the opposition 
to railways was founded on this superstition. For 
as the railway lines cut through graves, they must 
destroy the fang-skai. The telegraph has now 
spread pretty nearly all over the Empire ; but 
it was at first, because of fimg-shui, received 
with the strongest opposition by the people. 
The first telegraph line constructed in China was 
between Flong Kong and Canton. The thought 
of that mysterious wire passing over their land 
aroused among the people all the superstitious 
dread of occult influences. The highly significant 
names of the localities served by this line only 
confirmed them in their fear of the consequences. 
Canton is the “ City of Ram's ” or “ Sheep ” ; 
the mouth of the Canton River is known as “ The 
Tiger’s Mouth ” ; the district opposite Hong Kong 
is that of “The Nine Dragons.” What more 
disastrous conditions could be combined than 
to link such things together — a line to lead the 
Sheep right into the Tiger’s Mouth, or in the 
opposite direction amongst Nine Dragons? 

However, the Chinese Government were resolved 
* Thomson, p. 211. 

33 



Wind and Water, or “Fung-Shui” 


that this and other lines should be constructed^ 
and the opposition of the people had to give way. 
When^ as sometimes happened, the telegraph poles 
were uprooted by the populace, they were set up 
again, and soldiers protected the employees of the 
administration of telegraphs and their works. So, 
until the present renaissance of China, many 
foreign innovations which came athwart the Chinese 
line of progress were objected to, as, though 
perchance beneficial to the foreigner, they would 
be fraught with injury to the Land of the Dragon 
and the Tiger. 

Not only would the tiger be led along the 
ground, as with the telegraph line just men- 
tioned ; but in the case of railways this mythical 
tiger, or it may be the dragon, lies in the ground, 
and, though buried in the earth, yet is evidently 
alive, and deeply resentful of any injury done to 
it by a railway cutting. At one part of the com- 
pass the dragon will be disturbed ; at another the 
white tiger. Other elements also come into play 
in this farrago of nonsense. The whole thing has 
been worked up into what the Chinese consider 
an exact science, with its professors, whose 
occupation in life is to find out suitable sites for 
graves and buildings, and to be consulted when 
occasion arises on which their advice should be 
sought. Do we ourselves discover any unsatis- 
factory influences in our surroundings? The cause 
is looked for in soil, dampness, or atmospheric 
conditions. With the Chinese this pseudo-science 

34 



Professors of the Art 

c'otnes into action with a full play, of fancy ; its 
empirical laws are searched ; and the conditions 
made to agree with what the books have laid 
down. Of course the evil is discovered at once 
by the sage professor of the science. Do away 
with the conditions which no one can dispute, and 
all will be right, or bring other conditions into 
play which will counteract the adverse ones, and 
thus good will be evolved out of evil. 

The author dame across a case in point. 
Travelling in the Canton province, he and a 
fellow-traveller were curious to know the reason 
for a peculiarly shaped tower standing at a corner 
of the city wall in the City of Fragrant Hills. 
The explanation, at first, conveyed no meaning 
to the two foreigners, who listened to it from 
native lips. It required some months, or years, 
of soaking into the foreign brain before the full 
meaning was apprehended. Even then it is ques- 
tionable whether its full purport could be grasped, 
for it apparently needs a Chinese mind to fully 
understand such things. 

It appears that a stream of wealth was flowing 
out of the city—the city being a wealthy one, much 
of it having accrued from the honest labour of the 
now retired merchants who had amassed it abroad. 
The wiseacres who had made fang-shui their study 
advised the erection of this tower, by means of 
which the hard-earned savings of the wealthy might 
be retained. A poetical imagination is thus, it 
seems, let loose amongst superstitious beliefs. 

35 



Wind and Water, or “Fung-Shui” 

Many fantasies of the Chinese mind^ raised in 
assigning causes for malevolent influences, might 
— were it not that all is taken in sober earnest — 
raise a suspicion that the enunciator of them, like 
Bret Harte’s Ah Sin, had a card up his sleeve. 
It is not to be doubted that astute knaves are 
enabled, under the excuse of fung-shui^ to earn 
an income from the credulous. 

This geomancy is, in fact, a weapon ready in 
the hands of those who wish to injure others, or 
of those who, with a good object in view, have 
injured others, as the following instance will show. 

The primary object of a pagoda in China has 
been to preserve the relics of a Buddha or saint. 
The Chinese have, however, improved on this, and 
firmly believe that to conserve or improve the 
propitious geomantic influences of a place it is 
necessary to have these picturesque objects— narrow 
and polygonal obelisks many stories in height, 
which enhance the scenery and give a distinctive 
feature to it. 

There is at least one pagoda in China which 
has exerted a malign influence, as it is believed 
to be a great hindrance to the prosperity of the 
district in which it is situated. The story goes 
thus : — 

“ Many years ago there was a magistrate 
appointed to this district who understood geomancy. 
On examining a hill, he found out that, unless a 
pagoda were built there, there would arise in Kwong- 
chi (the district in question) some men who would 

36 



A Pervasive Difficulty 


be endowed with such extraordinary abilities that 
they might prove dangerous to the State. So he 
made a representation to the Throne, with the 
result that this pagoda was built— and now Kwong- 
chi cannot produce a single man of note.” 

From this it will be seen that such influences 
“ may be friendly to one person and hostile to 
another. Thus one Chinese may build a house 
or a place of business upon a particular spot of 
earth, and the fang-shui being favourable to him, 
prosperity will come to him and his ; but if another 
Chinese should construct the same building, for 
the same purpose, upon the same location, he would 
only meet with disaster, because the local influences 
were hostile to him. His children would die, his 
business be ruined, and the curse of evil spirits 
would involve him in hopeless destruction. Upon 
the other hand, if this second Chinese should 
construct a different style of building, or the same 
building for another purpose, the local powers 
might be satisfied not to annoy him.” ^ 

In place of our “ ancient lights ” in England, 
this topographical superstition may provide a 
cause for an action at law. In China a suit might 
lie and damages be recovered if the complainant 
could show the judge to his satisfaction that the 
defendant had affected the complainant prejudici- 
ally by damaging the fang-shai of his house, or 
ancestral hall or place of business 

The author’s father wished, while residing in 
’ Holcombe, The Real Chinaman, p. 146. 

37 D 



Wind and Water, or “Fung-Shui” 


the city of Canton, to have a window put into the 
side of his house which gave on to a square in 
front of a temple. But the master of the premises 
used as a shop on the opposite side of the square 
objected, as it would overlook his place. All that 
would be allowed was the putting in of one or 
two large open-work ornamental tiles near the roof, 
which permitted a small quantity of air to circulate. 
The matter was compromised in this way ; but, 
if the window had been insisted on, grave trouble 
would have arisen. If both parties had been 
Chinese, it would have been considered as a valid 
cause for action. 

Chinese houses have no chimneys, as they have 
no fireplaces, a broad opening in the roof pro- 
tected from' the rain serving the purpose of con- 
ducting the smoke from the kitchen. It conse- 
quently happens that in Peking “ the Chinese shun, 
as much as possible, living next door to a house 
occupied by a foreigner.” For the roofs of such 
houses “ are dotted with chimneys, built simply 
with a view to comfort and convenience, with a 
reckless disregard of all the laws of fung-shui." 

Some years ago an American in the employ of 
the Chinese Government was prevented from 
putting any chimneys to his house, as a high 
Chinese official who lived next door to him refused 
to permit him to have them. The poor American 
had to go through the intense cold of a Peking 
winter without a fire in his house, and had to try 
to warm himself with charcoal brasiers. When 

38 



The Things that Matter 

a high chimney was put up for the gasworks in 
the same city, house property within a mile fell 
to a half of its former value. 

Here are some of the rules which guide the 
professor of geomancy in his decisions with 
reference to houses and lands : The principal 
house in a mansion must be lofty, and the sub- 
sidiary buildings (which are combined with several 
main buildings, at least to form a mansion) shall 
be low. This is one of the chief principles. 6thers 
of importance are that “ neither exactly opposite 
the outside site, nor on either side of the house, 
“ shall there be a temple of any kind ; that the 
private drains be arranged according to geomantic 
principles ; that a certain number of doors follow 
each other in succession, never exactly in line ; 
and that the windows be on certain sides of the 
houses. The differences in the height of the 
ground must be taken into consideration, and 
the neighbours’ roofs must be examined, lest there 
be anything thereon to interfere with the fling- 
shai of the house in question.” 

“ In the case of land, the secret influences ^ that 
come and go ; the height and evenness of ” the 
ground ; “on which side the hillocks are to be 
raised, the low parts filled in ; in what direction 

* These influences must be very secret, one would think, to 
the geomancer and every one else ; for the literal translation of 
the terms used to express them are, 'The Coming Dragon,’ 
'The Departing Pulse,’ 'The Breath of the Earth,’ and 'The 
Power of the Earth’” (Thomson). 

39 



Wind and Water, or “Fung-Shui” 


the water is to flow off ; and how the trees are to 
be planted, &c. — are all points that are intimately 
connected with the fung-shui of the place,” 

In one thing alone fung-shai appears to be a 
benefit to the Chinese, and that is in the matter 
of trees about villages. Most villages nestled at 
the foot of hills, or standing solitary on the plains, 
have a grove of fine trees about or behind them. 
This is due to the geomantic influences which the 
trees ■ are supposed to exercise. 

There has often been great objection to the 
steeples or spires of churches ; and in nearly all 
cases the missionaries have met this objection by 
constructing churches and chapels without them. 
In many instances the buildings have, if ' not a 
Chinese shop or house adapted to the purpose, 
been built according to the Chinese mode. There 
was much bad feeling with regard to the French 
Roman Catholic Cathedral in the New City in 
Canton. Besides the allegation which festered in 
the minds of the people, to the effect that the 
ground on which it stood had been unjustly 
acquired by the foreigner, one of the strongest 
objections against it in the Chinese mind centred 
in the twin spires which dominated the whole city. 
A riot took place, and a permanent guard of 
native soldiers had to be placed at the cathedral 
gates. 

A wise quidnunc, after some years of exas- 
perated feeling on the part of the populace, 
enunciated the consoling statement that, instead 

40 



Geomancy and the Grave 

of this high stone building dominating the whole 
city for evil, it was most lucky in its geomantic 
properties. For what could be better or more 
fitting than a pair of horns (such as the two spires 
doubtless were) for the City of Rams, as Canton 
is called 1 

After all, the stronghold of this curious medley 
of superstition is in the grave, in which also 
ancestral worship centres. More than amongst 
any other people the grave is the centre of life 
amongst the Chinese. To us it would seem not 
possible that the condition or situation of a grave 
should affect the prosperity of a family ; the con- 
verse might be the case. But the former is what 
the Chinese believes, and the sums of money spent 
annually and throughout the Empire in attempts to 
select some auspicious site for a father’s resting- 
place must be something enormous. 

How far-reaching are some of the malign in- 
fluences of fung-shui may be judged by the fact 
that, some years since, a number of high Chinese 
officials united in a petition to the Throne, asking 
that p. stop be put to mining coal and iron at a 
point forty miles distant from the Imperial Tombs, 
upon the plea that this mining would disturb the 
bones of the Empress, who had recently been 
buried. 

The late Emperor Tung Chi was not buried for 
some nine months after his death, as no place 
was discovered in which his remains could be laid 
without disturbing the fung-shui. Two Imperial 

41 



Wind and Water, or “Fung-Shui” 

cemeteries exist, each about one hundred miles 
distant from Peking— one to the east and one to 
the west, so as to prevent any untoward circum- 
stance arising ; and the sovereigns alternate in 
their occupancy of their final resting-place. 

By rights Tung Chi should have been buried 
in the Western Cemetery, as his turn was to be 
laid there to rest, his father having gone to the 
Eastern Cemetery. “ But the court astrologers 
declared, as a result of their divinations, that no 
place could be found there where he might lie 
without injury to the State, and hence that he 
must be buried elsewhere. Months of investiga- 
tion, repeated references to different boards and 
departments of the public service, and numerous 
commands from the new Emperor followed, until, 
after nine months of effort, it was finally decided 
that he positively could not be intended in the 
Western Cemetery, where he belonged, but, with 
certain precautionary and conciliatory measures, 
he might be put underground in the Eastern. 
This was done, as the lesser of two. evils. 

“ The whole Empire had been stirred over the 
question. It had been debated at numerous 
Councils of State, and a large sum of money, esti- 
mated at ” about £50,000, had been expended, all 
to determine at what spot the coffin of the deceased 
Emperor should rest (Holcombe, p. 150). 

Many a coffin remains above-ground in China 
for months, or even years. Lack of time for 
the elaborate funeral exercises, or of funds to 

42 



The Grip of the System 

meet the extravagant expehses dictated by custom, 
is in some instances the Cause of the delay ; but 
in a vast majority of cases it is caused by trouble 
about the fung-shui. For the most part “ the 
trouble is easily adjusted, and by some absui"dly 
trivial and inconsequential act, such Us the plant- 
ing of a tree at a particulair spot in the cemetery, 
or perhaps the removal of a shrub or a stone.” 

A certain chapel in Canton had a portico with 
a row of pillars. The people in the neighbour- 
hood had assisted in subscribing for a public clock 
placed over it (one of the only two in the whole 
large city). So there was no question of any 
objection to the chapel, or they would not have 
thus given a quasi -sanction to it ; and it had 
thus stood for years. The author, on inquiring 
why the columns had disappeared some years since, 
was informed that the Chinese thought they were 
bad fung-shui; so they had been taken down. 

As “ this fung-shui delusion holds the entire 
Chinese nation in subjection, the professors of the 
art of divination are, as a class, as sincerely its 
victims as are those who employ them to solve 
its tangled mysteries in their own affairs. To 
refer again to the burial of Tung Chi, a large 
number of the ablest officials of the Empire made 
no effort to conceal their anxiety as to the effect 
of his being placed in the Eastern Cemetery. 
And when in subsequent years famine, flood, and 
other disasters came upon the nation, some of 
these were bold enough to point out in written 

43 



Wind and Water, or “Fung-Shui” 

memorials to the Throne that these calamities 
came as a result of violated fang -shut, as punish- 
ments for the interment of the late Emperor in 
a spot where he did not properly belong. 

“ The effect of such a system upon the lives of 
those who accept it can hardly be realised. That 
it must interfere with business, check enterprise, 
and hamper that individual freedom of action 
which is essential to healthy development-— all this 
is evident. But it goes far beyond this. It 
makes men by turns crazy fanatics and senseless 
cowards. And no cowardice is so damaging and 
hopeless as that which fears intangible, unseen 
dangers — dangers which a man cannot struggle 
against, and from which he cannot run. 

“ It can easily be imagined that such a system, 
with its innumerable ramifications and varieties 
of applications, might absolutely block the wheels 
of organised social and business life, and bring 
all things to a standstill. Perhaps it would, were 
not the Chinese remarkable for their capacity of 
adjustment, and for the patience and success with 
which they manage to evade difficulties and to 
compromise where they cannot readily conquer. 

“ Were they less phlegmatic, good-natured, and 
practical, the existence of this universal super- 
stition must long since have driven the entire race 
into lunacy.” ^ 

* Holcombe, pp. 152-4, 


44 



CHAPTER V 


The Much-married Chinaman 

T he average Westerner doubtless thinks that 
John Chinaman is very much married ; and 
so he is, if only those who have a multiplicity 
of wives are taken into account. But there are 
many who are content, or have to be content, 
with monogamy. Circumstances over which he 
has no control often force, according to his ideas, 
the Chinaman into polygamy.* There is, or should 
be, only one queen in the house— whether it be 
hovel or palace— which stands for the word home. 
But the assessor or assessors — who, according to 
the Oriental idea, ought by rights to serve the 
queen, be obedient to her, and live in harmony 
with her — at times usurp her province. Then civil 
war or domestic strife— a thirty years’ war some- 
times, if not worse— ensues. The king who finds 
the strife of tongues too much for him, and is 
unable to rule his unruly queens, is perforce at 
times obliged to separate the warring elements, 
and locate them in separate homes ; though all 

“ See Chapter III. pp. 26, 27. 

. 45 



The Mtich-married Chinaman 

his efforts will not stop the cbntinnal dropping 
of hints, innuendoes, blame, and abuse by angry 
and contentious women. 

A multiplicity of wives is a luxury — and an 
expensive one at that — even for the rich ; but an 
exception may be made in the case of the com- 
paratively poor man, if the partners be taken in 
moderation. For in such a case two female 
members of the household may, with sewing and 
embroidery and shoemaking, double the income 
of the home. 

It is considered far better for a woman to 
occupy the position of a wife than that of a con- 
cubine, and people of means or of great respect- 
ability as a rule see to their daughter's taking 
the supreme position in a household. 

“It is difficult even to guess at the extent of 
polygamy, for no statistics have been or can be 
easily taken. Among the labouring classes it is 
rare to find more than one woman to one man ; 
but tradesmen, official persons, landholders, and 
those in easy circumstances, frequently take one 
or more concubines — ^perhaps two -fifths of such 
persons have them. Show and fashion lead some 
to increase the number of th^ women, though 
aware of the discord likely to arise, for they fully 
believe their own proverb, that ‘ Nine women out 
of ten are jealous.’ 

“Yet it is probably true that polygamy findjs its 
greatest support from the women themselves. The 
wife seeks to increase her own position, by getting 

46 




EBui; 



Polygamy in Practice 

more women into the house to relieve her ” in her 
“ own work and humour her fancies. The Chinese 
illustrate the relation by comparing the wife to the 
moon and the concubines to the stars, both of 
which in their appropriate spheres wait upon and 
revolve around the sun. It is not infrequent for 
a man to secure a maidservant ” for “ the family, 
with the consent of his wife, by purchasing her 
for a concubine, especially if his occupation 
frequently call him away from home.” ' In this 
case he often takes her as his travelling companion, 
leaving his wife in charge of the household. 

And yet the best feelings of the nation are at 
heart evidently against the practice. A sentence 
from the Great Learnmg, one of the Confucian 
classics, is constantly in use by women. It is 
to this effect : “ Their persons being cultivated, 
their families were regulated.” When a wife 
quarrels with a concubine, and a husband remon- 
strates, this will be flimg into his teeth, as much 
as to say, “You have, by bringing in a concubine, 
failed to regulate your conduct and person.” 

A progressive Chinese of intelligent views ex- 
pressed the opinion to the author that polygamy 
was largely responsible for the bribery and corrup- 
tion of official life, and while it existed such 
practices would not, or could not, be given up. 
His belief — and it is widely shared — was that the 
expenses of a harem, with all the incidentals qf 
servants and an indefinite number of children, was 
' Williams, The Middle Kingdom, i. pp. 791-2. 

47 



The Much-married Chinaman 


one of the main reasons for the urgent need of 
a much larger income than legitimate official 
sources could be expected to grant or afford to 
those filling high posts under the Government. 

Thousands of years ago^ one of the most 
renowned men in China married the two 
daughters of one man as equal wives. This 
solitary case has served as* a plea with many a 
woman. It is pitiable to see how so-called wives 
try to use it, endeavouring ther'eby to show that 
they actually fill the position they would hold if 
they could. The author in his official life saw 
not a few cases in which a secondary wife, or 
concubine, has said that she was the equal wife 
of the. man who has another legal first wife. She 
has got the so-called husband to promise that 
she shall be his equal wife. But no plea of that 
kind is of any avail, as there is but one legal 
first wife in China, and no one, while she is alive, 
can be her equal. The others are called wives 
by courtesy only, and their position is a lower 
one than that of the legal principal wife. “ If 
names be not correct, language is not in accord- 
ance with the truth of things,'’ ^ is another quota- 
tion from the classics, which the Chinese use when 
in such a case a man calls his concubine his 
wife. 

The sayings of a people often give a clue to 
their feelings. The following sentence ^ from the 

= These quotations are taken from the author’s work The Pith 
of the Classics : The Chinese Classics in Everyday Life. 

48 



A Popular Excuse 


classics—** There are three things which are un- 
filial^ and to have no posterity is the greatest of 
them ” — is used as the reason for taking a wife, 
and especially for taking a concubine, when a! man 
is without offspring. How deep-rooted this feeling 
is in the mind of the Chinese may be gathered 
by the fact that this quotation is in constant use 
amongst the people. 

As the poor occupy but little space, a second 
wife does not take up much room ; but with the 
rich considerable provision must be made for their 
accommodation. The author, when a boy and 
allowed by Chinese custom to visit the ladies with 
his sisters, was once taken over a mansion of 
one of the wealthy inhabitants of a citj. This 
gentleman had six ladies dependent on his bounty, 
who looked up to him as their lord a^d master. 
They were housed in different apartments of what 
might be described as a gallery round the central 
square court of his house. 

Allusion has been made to quarrels in the house- 
hold when a man brings another wife in to vex 
the inmate or inmates of his dwelling. But the 
Chinese customs so familiarise women as well as 
men with the courtesy title of wife applied at the 
same time to several women by one man, that 
what would be considered as an insult in our 
Western lands is looked on as a natural conse- 
quence of unproductiveness on the part of the 
wife, or of wealth, which allows the numerical pro- 
portions of the family to be expanded. 

49 



The Much-married Chinaman 

Though the natural feelings at the bottom of 
a woman's heart are against sharing a husband 
with others, yet, so imperative are the demands 
of custom and religion for a male heir, that she 
is pleased in many cases to stifle her heaven- 
born instincts and be content. In some cases even, 
a wife urges on her husband to satisfy the clamant 
need of a family, by procuring what may prove 
to be a rival to her in his affections — presuming 
that the affections have been called into play by 
their marriage and are not lying dormant for some 
beauty to claim them. It must be remembered 
in this connection that the wife's ancestral tablet 
is set up by the side of her husband’s on her 
death, and, if a son is needed to pay the proper 
pious rites to his late father, a son’s services are 
also required for her. 

As far as the parties themselves are concerned^ 
the marriage of a legal first wife and her husband 
might almost be described as automatic. The 
machinery is set in motion by the parents, the 
parties themselves having nothing to do with it. 
What necessity is there for them to see each other? 
They seldom do, unless it be in the country, where 
it would be well-nigh impossible for the boys and 
girls, even with the seclusion of the latter in 
Chinese life, not to have passed before each other’s 
eyes. It is possible for the young man, in some 
cases iaX all events, to manage to get a glance 
at his future wife, but that is all, and in many 
cases not even a glimpse is seen by the future 
husband of her who is to be his wife. 

50 






Domestic Tragedies 

The go-between arranges everything with the 
parents on both sides. There is much going back 
and forward ; the fortune-teller decides whether 
the horoscopes of the couple agree ; presents are 
sent or exchanged ; and at last a grand series of 
ceremonies lasting three days takes place, an in- 
dispensable worship of ancestors being one of the 
most important. 

What must the feelings of the pair; be when 
the red cloth is lifted from the bride’s face as 
she steps out of the red bridal sedan-chair (in 
which a woman only rides once in her life), and 
the two persons, whO' have not been consulted in the 
affair, face each other, probably for the first time? 
Bound together for life they are, whether plain 
or beautiful, diseased or sound, intelligent or with 
only a small modicum of brains. Imbecility, even, 
seems at times to be no bar to marriage. Raptures 
at the sight of a beauty greater than could possibly 
have been hoped for would not, one would think, 
satisfy a husband as to the qualities of mind or 
temper unknown and xmtried in the past. 

That tragedies arise from such a course of action 
is natural and inevitable. A case of which the 
author heard many years ago may show the 
occasional result of bringing the two together, 
without any preliminary introduction and inter- 
course. 

After all the noise ,and excitement of the crowd 
were over, the bridegroom saw, to his horror (if 
he had not noticed it before on the arrival of the 

SI 



The Much-married Chinaman 

bride^ when the conventionalities prevented any 
action), what an ugly creature his newly espoused 
wife was. His whole soul revolted at the union 
with such a hideous object. Spurning her with 
cruel words, he retired to rest alone, and left her 
to cry out her misery in the corner of the room 
all night. 

On the other hand, it is a fact that a veritable 
affection does grow up in not a few cases between 
couples thus brought together, and so a situation 
fraught with every possibility of evil is rendered 
haimiless. If the first wife dies, another can be 
married to “ take the room ” of the deceased, 
“ to carry on the house,” as it is termed, and this 
so shortly after the death of the former as would 
be considered scandalous in our Western world. 
A woman takes so inferior a place in the economy 
of the East that a husband is not required either 
to attend the funeral of a wife or to express grief 
for her demise by wearing mourning — and this 
in a land where the utmost punctiliousness is 
observed in all such matters. 

All the children born under this expansive 
system of wedlock are technically the children 
of the first wife, and call her the “ big mother.” 
These children are all legitimate, and appear to 
be equals, though their mothers are not, or may 
not be, theoretically speaking. Practically, there 
is often not much difference in everyday life in 
the positions of the women who own one man 
as their husband. 


•52 



The Mother-in-Law 


The chief wife is the head of the wpmenfolk^ 
if there is no mother-in-law alive. If there be^ 
then the mother-in-law rules, and often with a 
rod of iron. A cruel, tyrannical, and hard- 
hearted woman can make the life of daughters - 
in-law and subsidiary wives and slave-girls a 
perfect misery, and the poor little wife has a hard 
struggle indeed. For the wife is supposed to 
bear everything in patience and submission, and 
to wait hand and foot on the mother-in-law. In 
the West the mother-in-law is often a much- 
maligned person and the butt of many a joke. 
In China the mother-in-law is held up to the 
highest respect and almost worship. 

The feelings of this august personage towards 
the daughter-in-law may be judged, as well as the 
feelings of her poor inferior towards her, from 
the following advice by a Chinese : “ There is 

no .such thing as a mother not loving her daughter ; 
nor is there such a thing as a mother-in-law not 
hating her daughter-in-law. Would that the 
mothers -in-law in this world would expend thirty 
per cent, of the love for their daughters on their 
daughters -in -law.*' The mother-in-law is the head 
of the family, at least as far as the domestic 
arrangements arc concerned^ so the daughter-in- 
law is virtually in most cases a slave to the 
mother-in-law, and her servitude is a long and 
bitter one, unless the mother-in-law is kind-hearted 
in disposition. 

Though reference has already been made to the 

53 E 



The Much-married Chinaman 


domestic difficulties due to this semi -legalised 
system of concubinage, it is the fact that cases 
do occur where the utmost harmony appears to 
prevail, where one would suppose such a course 
incompatible with human nature. A curious 
instance came under the author’s notice, where 
two cousins, married to one man, were as 
harmonious and happy together, to all outward 
appearances, as sisters. 

The exhibition of affection on the part of man 
or woman to the opposite sex is frowned on by 
Chinese custom and prudery. The outward signs 
of it between husband and wife are wanting. 
Kissing is most indelicate, except between elders 
and little children, and then it takes the shape 
of smelling the cheeks. Nevertheless, from 
inquiries the author has made, he has ascertained 
that even husbands and wives, where there is love 
between them, know how to kiss each other, when 
none can see, or suspect them guilty of such 
conduct. 

There must be many a loveless marriage in 
China ; and the laxity of the marriage bond (as 
regards the man alone) and its wide circumference 
as regards more than one woman to one man, 
jgive free play to the husband. If he does not 
find a sweetheart at home, he seeks and finds one 
abroad, whom' he may bring into his house as a 
secondary wife. 

The taking of a concubine is a much less serious 
business th,an, the marrying of a wife,. It is 

54 





Costly Weddings 

necessary^ as a general rule, to have the inter- 
vention of a go-between, to make it a perfectly 
proper affair, and lift it on to a higher plane than 
the mere taking of a mistress ; but the presents 
and the whole arrangements differ in various parts 
of the country, and are reduced to the most ele- 
mentary proportions at times. 

The Chinese almost beggar themselves on 
marriages, and spend lavishly on such occasions, 
borrowing, if they have not got the money on 
hand ; and in a country where a high rate of 
interest is required, crippling themselves for years, 
if not for life, by their extravagant expenditure. 

As a concrete illustration of this, there may be 
instanced the case of a Chinese in Singapore who 
became a bankrupt, mainly owing to the marriage 
of his three sisters, each of which cost him some 
£40. He himself drew a salary of nearly £7 a 
month, out of which his ordinary expenditure 
afnounted to some £5 odd, leaving him after this 
only about £14 a year. On a salary like this, of 
course, it was impossible to meet such heavy 
expenses. In a country like China though, where 
there is no bankruptcy court as such, this load 
of debt would have hampered such a foolish man 
for life, increasing as the years went on, probably 
on what would be considered as a moderate interest 
of 36 per cent, per annum* 

Divorce is allowed in China for seven reasons : 
Barrenness (though in this case the difficulty may 
be obviated by the taking of a secondary wife), 

55 



The Much-married Chinaman 

lasciviousness, jealousy, talkativeness, thieving, 
disobedience towards her husband’s parents, and 
leprosy. But the author scarcely remembers 
coming across a case of divorce during his long 
residence in China ; and the requirements in the 
resort to it are sufficient to prevent its being often 
carried out in real life, as far as regards a first 
wife. 

To begin with, her parents must be alive to 
receive the discarded wife. Moreover, there is 
a high standard of morality amongst respectable 
and well-to-do families in China ; so that the 
second reason is not likely to occur. As to 
jealousy, the author has seen a great deal of it 
in China. As regards this and talkativeness, the 
Chinese husband apparently thinks that “ what 
cannot be cured must be endured.” Thieving is 
not worthy of attention as a reason amongst 
respectable people. As to her husband’s parents, 
a wife is married as much, if not sometimes more, 
to be a daughter-in-law as to be a wife ; and, with 
the ingrained respect the Chinese have for the 
aged, transgression is not likely to be more than 
venial, except in a few cases. The last reason, 
leprosy, is a more serious matter. But the go- 
between is supposed to see that the bride-elect 
is healthy and well, and, though there are many 
lepers in China, the percentage to the population 
cannot be very great, so the contingency of its 
occurring is small. With concubines the matter 
is very different ; and, if she have no relations to 

56 



Child Labour 


make it unpleasant to her so-called husband, she 
has no redress. Divorce in China, if acted on, is 
quite one-sided ; no wife could think of divorcing 
her husband— the king does no wrong, can do no 
wrong. 

There is many a capable woman in China, and 
when such a one is married to an incompetent man, 
or a confirmed gambler, or an opium sot, she is 
compelled, if in poor circumstances, to be the 
bread-winner of the family. Amongst the poor 
both husband and wife support the family by their 
labours, and the children add their mites as soon 
as able, beginning by scouring the streets and 
water’s edge for every scrap of wood or shaving, 
to keep the pot boiling at home. They soon learn 
to mind a street stall, or to do any other thing to 
help. The baby is strapped on tlieir backs when 
they are little more than infants themselves, and 
thus baby is out in the open air nearly all day 
long, and kept out of mischief’s way, while the 
little brother or sister is picking up chips or doing 
some other light toil to add to the means of the 
house . 

Marriage by proxy is in vogue in China. If 
circumstances should make it impossible for the 
prospective bridegroom to return home, his 
presence, in some districts of the country, is not 
considered an absolute necessity. In .such a case 
a cock may be his proxy (this actually occurred 
with a servant of the author) ; and on return home 
the man may find a wife waiting for him and the 

57 



The Much-married Chinaman 

whole ceremony finished without the trouble of 
his going through it. It always appears to be 
necessary for the woman to be present, though 
of so little consequence is the consent of the two 
parties to a marriage, thjat one might almost 
suppose they could be married in the absence of 
both. 

The height of absurdity, however, seems to have 
been attained when a poor girl is married to a 
dead man. This is not an uncommon occurrence, 
when a girFs betrothed dies before marriage. It 
is then considered the height of virtue and pro- 
priety when the maiden announces that she will 
marry the dead. She then leaves her parents and 
her childhood’s home, and is practically dead to 
her own home and relatives, as a wife nearly 
always is. She takes up her abode with the 
mother of the dead man, and of course is never 
really married to a living man ; for in respectable 
society in China it is considered disgraceful for 
a woman to take another man as her husband. 
A man may, however, marry over and over again 
without let or hindrance. However, many a 
Chinese widow consoles herself with a husband 
again after the death of the first ; but this is 
more especially the Case in the lower classes of 
society. In the higher classes it is considered 
to be a disgrace to the late husband’s family for 
the widow to marry again. A second marriage of 
a woman is a very different affair from the 'first ; 
there is no red bridal sedan-chair, and the whole 

S8 



Marriage and Morals 

thing may be a very commonplace affair, in com- 
parison with all the pomp and ceremony of the 
first. 

Amongst the very lowest classes there is a 
certain amount of immorality, or looseness of the 
marriage tie, in the way of a wife leaving her 
husband and taking up with another man. This 
is sometimes the case when a husband goes abroad 
for years. In the case of the boat population it 
is a matter of common report that the women are 
not as virtuous as those on land. In the causes 
in which a wife leaves her husband, generally 
amongst the working classes, a number of which 
came before the author in his official capacity, 
he found that the husband was usually quite ready 
to take the wife back again ; but the chief concern 
was to get the son returned again to the family 
in which he was born, so as to have a son for 
ancestral worship. For the same reason the other 
man was sometimes wishful to retain the boy. 

It will thus be seen that it is the man who has 
all the plums in the marriage market— as many 
wives as he likes, or his purse will allow, divorce 
in certain cases, and besides these, the power to 
beat his wife. Man is considered superior to 
woman in every way in China. 

The Chinese youth begins his married life early. 
Boys are of age at sixteen, and most Chinese 
young men are married at twenty, and sometimes 
even years before. 

The girls are considered to be quite mature at 

59 



The Much-married Chinaman 


fifteen^ and some are married long before that 
age. There is no doubt that both boys and girls 
arrive at maturity far earlier than in the West ; 
but there is no doubt also that the Chinese enter on 
the married state too early in life. 


6o 



CHAPTER VI 


John Chinaman Abroad 

J OHN CHINAMAN is not welcomed abroad in 
many places where his advent would be most 
beneficial. Where he has been allowed full 
scope to develop his admirable qualities in coloni- 
sation, he has been the making of the country. He 
is painstaking, diligent, industrious ; he will work 
from early dIawn to late night ; he does not go 
on the spree on Saturday and Sunday, and have 
to keep Saint Monday and Saint Tuesday as well, 
but is at his work every day. As to his vices, 
they are, in many cases, no more, ceteris paribus^ 
than the Englishman’s. 

Put on Chinese spectacles, and you will be 
shocked at the immorality of some of the European 
residents in China ; at the often seen drunkenness 
of the soldier and sailor ; at the rudeness which 
characterises the conduct of some to the Oriental 
— rudeness which shows itself by a whack from 
a walking-stick, or a prod from an umbrella, 
or a slash from' a riding-whip, as one passes the 
other ; by the ill-disguised superiority which shows 

6i 



John Chinaman Abroad 

itself in some cases in almost every word and 
action; in the hauteur which often reveals itself 
in the countenance ; in the ignorant disregard of 
Chinese rules of politeness, even the most elemen- 
tary, which the Westerner not only does not know, 
but, strange to say, does not even take the trouble 
to learn, though living surrounded by masses of 
natives who are polite to an almost painful degree 
in the only way they know. 

The Chinaman did not want the intruding 
Westerner in his country two centuries ago ; but 
the stranger would come in, and used his battle- 
ships to open a way for him to enter. It was 
inevitable, doubtless, and China has benefited 
vastly by the stranger within her gates, as most 
countries do — benefited vastly by the influx of 
Western civilisation; by the breezy freshness 
infused into the air of stagnation; by the intro- 
duction of a new literature abreast of the times, 
which is largely due to the missionaries’ efforts; 
by the establishment of hospitals under missionary 
aegis, for the cure of those whom ignorance had 
left to suffer and die; by the multiplication of 
schools, where the mind was educated, and not 
only the memory at the expense of mind—this 
again has been done mostly by the missionaries. 

When the Chinaman followed the example of 
the European and American, and desired like them 
to better his position by going abroad, he was 
first used for needful work where there was not 
a sufficiency of their own people, as in the construc- 

62 



The Chinese Emigrant 

tion of the mighty railway lines across Canada 
and the United States, and then hounded out of 
the land. 

One serious objection to the Chinaman in some 
countries is that he does not settle and become one 
of the nation, but sends his earnings home, and 
finally follows them himself. In short, he does 
just what the complainant’s own countrymen do 
in China, where the European or American mer- 
chant looks forward to going home, sends his 
accumulated savings back to Europe or America, 
and after he has made Iiis pile returns to his native 
land. Both invest in a fine house and lands and 
fields and hope to enjoy the remainder of their 
days in their native lands on the fruit of their 
toil, the only difference between the two being 
that many a Westerner, before his hopes arc 
achieved, takes six feet by three by eight of China’s 
soil to rest in, while nearly every Chinese is trans- 
ported dead or alive to his native soil. 

As to vices, there is not much to choose between 
them. This blackguarding, of Chinese with foul 
vices is to be deprecated, for it intensifies ill-feel- 
ing ; and if the candid opinion of a Chinese, who 
had as good a knowledge of the English as the 
detractors of the Chinese have of them, were asked, 
he would honestly say that the Chinese morality 
was of a higher standard than the luiglish. We 
cannot agree with this, but we do say that he has 
strong grounds for his opinion, and this without 
in any way wishing to decry our own countrymen. 

63 



John Chinaman Abroad 


Whatever may be said about the wholesale 
immigration of the Celestial into lands like 
England;, where there is not even room for all 
those born in it to make an honest, decent living, 
and bring up a family in comfort, it is the rankest 
folly to apply a hard-and-fast rule to all lands. 

The Chinese have, to a great extent, made 
Malaya and all the adjoining portions of Asia. 
In such lands where those born in a temperate 
clime are unable to toil in the open under a blazing 
sun, the Chinese supply the raw material of labour, 
and without them these countries would languish. 

There are two notable instances of lands which 
call for the Chinese and to which access is denied 
them. There are the Philippines, where, by the 
restrictive policy mistakenly pursued by the 
Americans, this useful ingredient in the population 
is ditninishing ; and there is the Northern Territory 
in Australia. Both these lands are calling for 
thelm, and the Chinese are the very people who 
will supply the labour and develop the resources 
that now lie latent and waiting for the genius of 
the patient, toiling native of the Far East. 
Developtnent lies to a great extent dormant till 
he is permitted to enter these lands. 

Those who raise objections to the Chinese 
going abroad without their wives are sing-ularly 
ignorant or forgetful of the conditions under which 
their own countrymen go abroad to India, China, 
and Japan, as well as the other countries on the 
other side of the globe. Our sailors go for years 

64 



East and West Compared 

to any and every part of the globe without their 
womenfolk, and are confined in far closer quarters 
on shipboard than any of the roomy compounds 
in South Africa. Our soldiers are sent to 
garrison our Eastern Colonies, and carry on wars 
without their wives, except in a few cases, and 
shut up in barracks often for long periods at a 
time. Mechanics and artisans accept situations 
under contracts for years in the Eastern Hemi- 
sphere, without any chance in many cases of taking 
their families out with them. These three classes 
are about the equivalent in social position of which 
the majority of Chinese labourers who emigrate 
are composed. 

To ascend higher in the social scale, the majority 
of our naval ofiicers and many of our military 
officers are debarred from the enjoyments of home- 
life. All clerks sent abroad from Europe and 
America to mercantile firms in the East never 
expect that in addition to the passage-money 
supplied them a further allowance will be granted 
them for a wife ; and last of all many missionary 
societies insist on all their younger agents pro- 
ceeding to the East unmarried for a term of 
y eai's . 

If the Chinese arc immoral because they do 
not take their wives with them when going abroad, 
or because they have left their families behind, 
while they add to their resources and hope to make 
more tolerable the future with their enhanced 
earnings abroad — if all these things prove them 

65 



John Chinaman Abroad 


immoral, what about the Europeans and Americans 
who leave their native shores under similar con- 
ditions as prevail with the Chinese emigrant to 
distant parts of the world? 

There are not a few estimable Englishmen 
abroad who will not marry, because they have the 
opinion that the Eastern climate is not one to 
which they should subject one of their own country- 
women by marrying her, and taking her out to 
form a home for them in their loneliness. If the 
Chinaman goes abroad, it must be remembered 
that the whole traditions of his race are against 
his taking his wife to a foreign land, where after 
all he is going only to spend a few years of his 
^ife ; besides, the home has to be kept up. 
Necessity forces him to go; for there are the 
young children to look after, and there is again 
his old mother, who cannot be left alone. 

The Chinaman is a law-abiding man; but he 
needs to be ruled with a strong hand and a just; 
his national characteristics must be known and 
allowed for, and a genuine and sympathetic interest 
evinced in him as a human being. He is not a 
savage, and naturally resents treatment as such. 
The class of man like the overseer, who is placed 
sometimes in authority over large working masses 
of the Chinese, is often apt to be very overbear- 
ing in his manner, and to kick and knock about 
the Chinese who are under him. Unfortunately, 
some higher in the social scale forget themselves 
in this way as well. 


66 



Emigrant Wives 

It is, however, a mistake to suppose that the 
Chinaman never takes his womankind abroad with 
him. When he goes half round the world, he 
naturally often leaves her behind, though even 
then she accompanies him at times ; but when the 
distance is short there are large numbers of women 
who emigrate, for instance, to places such as Singa- 
pore. The author in his official capacity has seen 
hundreds and thousands of them, and talked with 
them. The women often travel by themselves 
to their husbands, who have gone first and made 
a home for them, their mothers-in-law sometimes 
going with them. In other cases the husbands 
have come home to take the whole family back 
with them, and then the wife and the children 
and perhaps the mother of the man are in the 
party, or the man has come back to get married, 
and take his young wife with him abroad. Occa- 
sionally even the old grandmothers go' with them, 
and there is an exodus of the whole family. 

In the Straits Settlements some of the Chinese 
settle down for life, taking Malay women for their 
wives. Quite a community is growing up of Babas, 
as they are called; that is, native-born Chinese 
whose mothers are Malays. In some cases these 
children thus born abroad, and so natives of 
the soil, cannot speak their father-longue at all. 
These Chinese who settle for many years, if not 
for life, in those parts of the world, become often 
quite polyglots in their speech; for besides speak- 
ing the language prevailing in their own district 

67 



John Chinaman Abroad 


at home in China, their business relationships 
in the new country they have come to makes 
it necessary for them to pick up the languages of 
other parts of China, as represented by others 
of the emigrants. A knowledge of Malay is so 
easily acquired that they all speak Malay ; English 
is also learned by a good many. 

Many of these Chinese amass large fortunes, 
nor are all the benefits they have acquired in their 
new surroundings forgotten, as the wealthy Chinese 
are fond of using their money for public purposes. 

The author some thirty years ago had occasion 
to employ a Chinese gentleman of some literary 
attainments to assist him in his labours. Probably 
this man’s income from all sources was not more 
than about £2 or £3 a month. Five or six years 
ago this gentleman called to see the author. 
He had been for some years in the Federated 
Malay States, and the family were now well off. 
He was only on a visit to China, for he was 
returning to the States. His sons and he had, for 
one thing, taken up tin-mining. He had some 
house property. With the Chinese aptitude to 
seize on what would produce money, he had 
obtained spawn of tench, and when the fish were 
hatched and grown fit to eat had sold them at a 
good price, as the Chinese are very fond of this 
fresh-water fish, and had not previously been able 
to get them. On the return of his wife and himself 
he was taking with him a gardener, to look after 
his garden in Kwala Lumpur. 

68 



The Chinaman Abroad. 


This is a typical case of how the Chinese is 
able to get on in the world, and more especially 
so when he places himself in the midst of new 
surroundings, when he takes advantage of all the 
openings which present themselves to him’ to make 
an honest penny. 

The Chinaman not only goes abroad to foreign 
lands; he also goes abroad in his own land, for 
to travel into another province, or often even into 
another part of his own province, is in reality 
a going abroad to the Chinaman. To begin with, 
he may find the language different, and unless 
there is a large community of those from his own 
country-side, he is thrown amongst those who, 
though of his own race, are distinct from him in 
many a custom, and foreign to him’ in many ways. 
In fact, he is a stranger in his own land> and many 
a time he feels it too. 

At all the treaty ports, up and down the coast of 
China', and up the mighty rivers, colonies of Can- 
tonese are to be found as shopkeepers, merchants, 
and chmpradores to foreign firms. These, when 
old age arrives or infirmities set in, return to their 
own country-sides ; or their coffins carry their 
remains, should death ensue before the looked-for 
return is undertaken. In Hong Kong are found 
Amoy and Swatow merchants, and even Ningpo 
and Shanghai men, as well as others from more 
distant parts of the vast Empire. 

There are doubtless many Chinese who never 
leave their native village or its immediate neigh- 

69 F 



John Chinaman Abroad 

bourhood; but there are numbers who have been 
far afield either within or without the confines of 
the Celestia.1 Empire in search of the almighty 
dollar. It seems a strange thing, but it has been 
hitherto the general rule, that however the foreign 
civilisation has affected him when abroad, when 
he returns the Chinaman is a Chinaman again. 
In most cases the influence of travel seems imper- 
ceptible, though it must have had a larger 
leavening influence than the foreigner, who finds 
it hard to see below the surface when a Chinaman 
is concerned;, will allow. He returns to his native 
village, and to all outward appearance he is the 
same man as he was before, though indications 
are sometimes to be seen that his sojourn abroad 
has had some influence on him, and this is getting 
to be more and more the case. 

The Chinaman’s adaptability to all climates and 
conditions is marvellous. He has all conditions in 
his own land. In the extreme north of China the 
winters are arctic in their intensity, the rivers being 
frozen over. Throughout China the heat in 
summer is tropical, the duration being shorter in 
the north, though the heat is as great if not greater 
as one goes up the coast. Thus when he goes 
abroad it is seldom that John Chinaman comes 
across conditions that are not to be found in his 
own land, though at the same time the individual 
Chinamfan may not have experienced them in 
his own person. His general frugality and 
abstemiousness have probably something to do with 

70 



Chinese Emigrants 

his being able to endure what others cannot. 
Added to this is his general good-nature, which 
enables him to bear up under adverse circum- 
stances, when others of a less happy disposition 
would give way to their troubles. 

John Chinaman starts on his travels abroad at 
the rate of considerably over two hundred thousand 
a year, and about half of these go to the Straits 
Settlements. There is scarcely a country in the 
world which has not at least one or two Chinese 
in it. There are only three counties in England 
which have not a Celestial in them. There are two 
hundred Chinese students in London alone. There 
must be at least between three and four millions 
abroad in different parts of the world, amount- 
ing in number to the population of a small 
European state. There are numbers of these who 
have not only left their country voluntarily for 
their own good as well as that of their country, 
but also to the good of the countries to which 
they have gone; for they benefit the countries 
to which they migrate, as they do their own 
country when they return. Amongst them there 
may be a few who are not desirable immigrants. 
It is a pity, however, that the evil conduct of some 
scapegraces, or in some cases even criminals, who 
have managed to emigrate, should cause the whole 
race to be unjustly judged. 


7 * 



CHAPTER VII 


John Chinaman’s Little Ones 

C HINA is the land of children. No Malthusian 
law deters the multiplication of the human 
race there. All boys are heartily welcomed on 
their arrival into this world, and none are at once 
assisted out of it again, unless there be some con- 
genital defect which makes their presence unde- 
sirable. With girls it is a different matter ; they 
are unacceptable, and not to be mentioned in the 
enumeration of one’s children, though the poetical 
name of “ a thousand pieces of gold ” is given to 
them. However, a metaphorical shower of gold 
of this nature is not desired. If means are ample, 
they are endured, though not wanted. The ravages 
of famine, the devastations of floods, straitened 
circumstances, the local customs, are all factors 
in the determination whether the child, if of the 
wrong sex, shall stay in this world or only be 
here a few minutes or hours or days. 

It is absurd to argue that infanticide is no more 
prevalent in China than in England ; or to 
describe it as a curse of the land, which devastates 
whole districts. Let it be granted at once that 

72 






Infanticide and Slavery 

most Chinese parents would wish their children 
all to be boys ; and if such could be the case, 
there would probably not be a country on the face 
of the globe where infanticide was so rare — even 
though in such a case there would, in the course of 
a few generations, be no infants at all, and the 
whole race would die out. It is doubtless true, 
however, that cases have been known where, so 
prevalent was infanticide, that locally girls could 
not be obtained for marriage, and, as with the 
Sabines of old, other districts had to provide them. 
In some country-sides in China the crime is terribly 
prevalent ; in others it is caused by adverse 
circumstances, being the inevitable result of bad 
harvests, a famine, or flood ; and it ceases in 
such places, to a great extent, when the cause 
has gone. Such disasters also cause a brisk 
market for children. Even boys are sold at such 
times, though it is mostly the girls who are eagerly 
snatched up, in some cases for slaves, but very 
often indeed to be brought up to a life of vice. 

In the discussion of all these sulrjects in relation 
to China, it must be remembered that a father has, 
theoretically, the power of life and death over his 
own children. Affection and public opinion prevent 
the extreme exercise of it when the child is well 
on in life, save in exceptional cases, when the son, 
say, is a confirmed gambler or opium -smoker, 
and a reprobate. But public opinion has but little 
to say against a parent e.xen-ising his right over 
a puling babe. Again, it must be remembered 

73 



John Chinaman’s Little Ones 


that not all the tiny coripses floating, seawards on 
China’s mighty rivers, or lying on the roadside, 
or, indecently cast on a heap of rubbish with no 
covering but a rotten piece of matting, are the 
victims of child-murder. Ancestor worship is 
largely responsible for this unpleasant phase of 
Chinese life. This cult has no use for an infant, 
and denies a tablet or other memorial to any un- 
married unit of the human race, except in the case 
of the boat population, who keep up their own 
customs as distinct from those of the land people. 
With this exception an infant is of no consec|uence 
and requires no decent interment, and that in a' 
country where everything connected with death is 
deemed of the utmost importance to the living 
as well as to the dead. 

A kindly spirit (excuse the seeming irony from' 
an English standpoint) prevents in a very few 
cases the necessity, as the perpetrators of this in- 
human crime would deem it, of actually killing 
with their own hands the infant. An instance of 
this came under, the eyes of the author at Chow 
Chow Fu. Its most revolting features were 
revealed in a hole under the city wall, where the 
infants could be cast ; but not far distant hung 
a basket, protected from' the fierce rays of the 
sun by a piece of matting to form' a sloping roof 
over it. In this basket any one bringing the 
unwanted child could place it, and any who 
wished to thus easily obtain an addition to the 
family could ‘rescue it from its impending fate. 

74 



Parent and Child 

In a country where heads fall off for several 
crimes which are not visited with death in our 
land;, no capital punishment is the award for the 
crime of infanticide. Though every now and then 
the mandarins issue proclamations inveighing 
against it, and urging the. people not to commit it, 
yet they do not set the machinery of the law in 
operation, for the patria potestas is all powerful 
in China. Every now and then there are instances 
of the offended dignity of a disgraced parent 
avenging itself on the un dutiful son with the 
extreme penalty for disobedience. The father’s 
life is not forfeit in such a case, though the act 
may at times be considered as very excessive, for, 
as has already been said, the father holds the life 
of the child in his hands. 

In China the expectant mother is not busy for 
months preparing a layette for the dear one coming 
to gladden the house ; for the little things are 
simply wrapped in old rags and clothes belonging 
to older people, and for a mnnth baby has no name. 
Then a grand banquet is held, when relations and 
friends are invited. The men gather at a 
restaurant, and feast. The women eat and drink 
by themselves in the house. Congratulations are 
offered and presents given to the child. 

The milk -name is now bestowed on the child, the 
first name he or she receives. This clings to him^ 
or her through li^fe, being used by parents, relatives, 
and most intimate friends, as well as by superiors. 
This first name that a m'an or a woman possesses 

75 



John Chinaman’s Little Ones 

is not sufficient for a Chinaman, and even before 
the child is grown up the boy will have another, 
in the shape of a school-name. He signalises every 
great event in life, such as marriage and official 
appointment, by a new name, so that by the time 
he ends life he has some three or four names to be 
known by. One gets acquainted with a Chinese 
by one name, and then later on learns that he has 
another, and is now known by the other instead 
of by the first, which with difficulty one has fixed 
in one’s memory, and a new effort of memory is 
required for the new name. On or after the 
bestowal of the name the child is properly dressed 
in a short little jacket and pair of trousers open 
back and front. The jacket is often gay with 
colours. No long white robes and delicate lace 
are seen. Very little children often wear a 
garment which reminds one of Joseph’s coat 
of many colours, being of the pattern of a patch- 
work quilt. 

Paradoxical as it may seem after what has been 
said, it is nevertheless the truth that the Chinese 
have a large share of natural affection for their 
children. The pride that the fathers and the 
grandfathers take in the toddling wee things is 
one of the pleasantest sides of Chinese human 
nature, of which there are many very pleasant 
aspects. The surest way to gain golden opinions 
from the street crowds in China is for the foreigner 
to take notice of the little darlings with their 
winning ways. 


76 



The Children’s Ways 


The little ones almost as soon as they can speak 
are taught to address the stranger by his proper 
title and with the respect proper to his station 
in a bold, clear voice. The quaint mixture of 
oldish ways and the frank childishness of the 
toddling youngsters is very charming. Little old- 
world dolls, little grown-up men and women, but 
yet with the chubby, round, innocent faces of child- 
hood, they look up at you with wonder on their 
features, tinged perhaps with a little fear, and 
most gravely inquire, “ Sir, have you eaten your 
rice yet? ” Or with a clear piping voice they 
wish you “ Good morning.” 

Quaint little mites of humanity ! Droll speci- 
mens of the human race ! Millions and millions 
of small editions of John Chinaman the Elder have 
been schooled into Oriental ways and Far Eastern 
manners, till the little ones seem’ but replicas of 
the grown-ups ; but with that soupgon of the child- 
world still clinging about them', with its delicate 
suggestiveness of other -worldliness. 

Babydom is very much the same in the Far 
East as in the Far West. Nursery rhymes are 
abundant — one collection of six hundred has been 
made. Baby’s mind and baby’s ears are very 
much the same, whether his father and mother 
have given him a white skin or a yellow, and 
baby’s father and mother, nurse and sisters, as well 
as aunties and grannies, know what to sing to 
please him, soothe him, and quiet his peevishness, 
whether they live on one side of the globe or the 

77 



John Chinaman’s Little Ones 


Other.. Is it strange if the little morsels should 
sometimes say in the language which father and 
mother understand so well, “ My little body is 
a-weary of this great world”? and need those 
delightful little songs to make them' forget all their 
little troubles? Wondrous like some of them are 
to our English nursery songs, while many of them 
have the colouring of the East, and reflect the 
manners and customs of the Orient. It seeta's 
curious to us, doubtless, to find the following 
verdict passed on the Chinese nursery song, but 
it is given by one who knew what he was saying, 
and it is this : “ There is no language in the 
world, we venture to believe, ^ which contains 
children’s songs expressive of more keen and 
tender affection.” 

It is astonishing what an amount of enjoyment 
Chinese children can get out of life, though the 
Chinese for ages past have done their best to fit 
old heads on young shoulders. Their school-books 
have taught them that there is no profit in play ; 
centuries of repression have made them* quiet 
children. Under the old system, they were shut 
up from sunrise till five o’clock in the afternoon at 
school, sitting on hard wooden benches, each sing- 
songing his lesson at the top of his voice. 

The old books were fit only for grown-ups to 
pore over and study. The “ Four Books ” and 
the “ Five Classics ” were learned by heart, if 
the boy stopped long enough in school-life ; then 
he learned to compose essays based on the claissfcs 

78 



Schools and Toys 

and to write poems. These, until the last few years, 
formed the sum-total of Chinese education, and 
they are little fitted for the youthful brain. But 
now a more rational system, based on that of the 
West, is being' adopted throughout the land. There 
have been no story-books, no allegories, no boys’ 
books of adventure, no thrilling tales of heroes 
or heroines to enchant boys and girls in their 
leisure hours. It is only of late years that, thanks 
to the missionary, “ Robinson Crusoe ” and a few 
other books suited to the young have been made 
available. Now, with the new education, books 
adapted to the young are taking the place of the 
antiquated lesson -books. 

There are toys, to be sure, but the majority are 
rude and uncouth, compared with the finished 
products which gladden the hearts of our young- 
sters. There are no skipping-ropes, no cricket, 
no football, no rocking-horses, no hoops. Shuttle- 
cocks there are, but no battledores, and they are 
as much if not really more for the grown-up men 
than the boys, though the boys kick them, to get 
into practice, so as to be able to play properly 
when they become men. There are small wooden 
cannon and a few brass ones ; rude swords made 
of wood or pasteboard, and tridents and halberds 
made of pasteboard, wood, or bamboo ; kites, 
too — but these belong as much to the repertoire of 
men’s games— pas tel )oard mandarins, earthen roast 
pigs (money-boxes) glorious in red paint and gilt. 
These pigs are made in all sizes, with a slit in the 

79 



Jolm Chinaman’s Little Ones 


back for the copper cash to be dropped in, and when 
the pig is full there is a glorious smash to get the 
money out. There are some clumsy iron marbles, 
which the Chinese boy shoots by pulling one finger 
back with another, and then letting it go like a 
spring. There are a number of rather pretty and 
ingenious things made of tin and bright metal, 
little rattles, two beads attached to short strings 
fly against the tin instrument as its handle is twirled 
round in the hand, small fly-cages, little spillikin 
weapons consisting of tridents, &:c. Pretty little 
whirligigs are made of red-coloured fluted paper. 
There are tops which come into play at certain 
seasons of the year, for the toys in China, as in 
our Western lands, have their proper seasons. 

There are a few toy-shops in the big cities, 
but there are also stalls where certain primitive 
toys are spread out for sale, and where for a 
cash or two a purchase can be made by the 
toddling little youngster, or by a grown-up person 
on his behalf. But the season when all these 
places overflow with a plethora of these delights 
of childhood is the China New Year, the time of 
all times, not only for the little ones in China 
but for every one from the oldest to the youngest ■; 
for then every one becomes a child again, and 
plays and enjoys himself to the utmost. Besides 
the shops and stalls, there are the hawkers of 
toys, who go about the streets selling them. 

Chief almost of all is the ping-pom man, with 
his pretty white and red glass ping -poms, ranging 

8o 



Toys and Toy-makers 

from tiny little ones to great big ones. They 
consist of a tiny tube of glass which widens out 
into a closed cup, the shape somewhat of the, cup 
for playing our Western game of cup and ball, 
but the cup portion is closed with a thin film of 
glass. The end of the tube is put in the mouth, 
and by gentle blowing out and breathing in the 
tiny diaphram of glass vibrates with a' sound like 
ping-pom, to the immense delight of the children. 
Too strong a breath breaks the .glass, and a rough 
hand smashes the whole affair, so frail is it. 

Another peripatetic toy-man is the maker of paste 
images. He has a stick of bambooi fon his ground- 
work, and he deftly works on to the end of it a 
little image of man or woman, about three inches 
high. He has little accessories to put into their 
hands ; and now it is a warrior, with spear pr 
sword, in all his panoply, eager for battle ; now 
his skill produces a domestic ; and thus he goes 
on modelling and colouring his little figures, 
while an admiring crowd gathers round him, and 
sees him create his little manikins as hp stands 
in the street. 

But notwithstanding all this, what child is there 
that cannet make toys for: himself? And little 
John Chinaman is not behind the rest of the world 
in this respect. A few sticks and stones, a corner 
of the house or a bit of a garden, and there is his 
paradise, where he makes believe and lives a perfect 
life in the childish Kingdom' of Pretend, where 
he is full of the richest joys, incomprehensible 

8i 



John Chinaman’s Little Ones 


to his elders, who often sweep away all his most 
real pretendings with most unfeeling hands and 
unseeing eyes. Though the China boy does not 
actually need toys, any more than any other child 
does, they help' him on wonderfully in the world in 
which he lives — a world which the stupid grown- 
ups can no more understand than his childish mind 
can comprehend theirs. 

With girls — but what are girls in China? Even 
the nursery rhyme says virtually, Of what use is 
a girl? 

keep a dog to watch the house, 

A pig is useful too ; 

We keep a cat to catch a mouse, 

But what can we do 
With a girl like you ? 

Of course some of the toys mentioned above are 
used by girls ; but kites and shuttlecocks and 
tops are not girls' toys in China, and really jit 
comes to very few indeed that they can amuse 
themselves with, for there are no dolls. Just think 
of it ! No dolls to dress and undress, and learn 
all a mother’s ways ahd tenderness by. 

Then besides the toys there are also sweet- 
meats on stalls or carried about the streets — so 
many dififerent kinds, wheat-sprout toffee, pepper- 
mint stick, so white and clean-looking and such 
a contrast to the dirty fingers of the boy who is 
selling it. Then there are kum-ying-ko^ like little 
brown marbles, and as you suck them yp.u come 
across little bits of the leaf v/hiQh flavours them 

82 



Infant Gamblers 


in your mouth. There are many other nice things, 
especially at New Year, when there is candied 
cocoanut, and ginger and sugared bits of melons 
cut in little squares and other shapes, and oranges 
galore — all spread out and offered to every visitor, 
so that the youngsters can munch them nearly 
all day long. 

There is also the pickle -hawker, with unripe 
mangoes, carambolas, sliced cucumbers dripping 
with vinegar, and set out in crocks so tempting 
an d delicious to the Chinese child. But alas ! 
alas ! these tempting titbits are often made the 
bait to lure the little innocent things on to gamble, 
and the toddling little babies stake their cash as 
to whether they shall gain or lose by the throw of 
the dice or the turn of the wheel. No wonder 
the Chinese are such ardent gamblers ; they are 
brought up to it from babyhood with the memory 
of sweet morsels or acid pickles. 

It is not all sugar-plums and sweets, though, in 
China'. Almost all the children are spoiled. They 
will be petted to their hearts’ content, getting 
everything they cry for, until some out-and-out 
naughtiness rouses the ire of parent. Then all 
the pent-up vials of wrath are broken on the 
little one’s head. If he escapes without a slap 
or a good beating he is fortunate. 

Unlucky is the poor little slave-girl under such 
circumstances. Tiny little things, some of them 
are, sold into a family, tOi be the drudge of the 
hopse, run errands, lo,ok after the children, aftd 

83 



John Chinaman’s Little Ones 

do whatever they are told. Cliiiiese servants are 
more a part of the family than in the West, and so 
these slave-girls are in the family, and to a certain 
extent of it ; but if they have a cruel mistress, 
her cruelty will at times find its full vent on 
these helpless creatures. They will be beaten till 
they are covered with bruises. Not content with 
that the brutes in human shape will sometimes 
burn the slave’s skin with live incense sticks. The 
abolition of this domestic slavery is one of the 
reforms which China must soon take up if she 
wishes to belong to the comity of civilised nations. 
A beginning has already been made in this 
direction. 

The servitude of these domestic slave-girls is 
not for life, for they, as a rule, are married off 
by their mistresses when they attain a marriage- 
able age. 

The infant mortality, apart from deaths by 
infanticide, must be awful in China. Instead of 
at first giving the babe Nature’s provision for its 
nourishment, tiny oblong sweet cakes are crammed 
into the little mouth for several days. As the 
child grows older manifold are the dangers that 
assail it from injudicious diet. Then it has the 
gauntlet of childhood’s diseases to run^ with but 
little assistance from ignorant mothers, and from’ 
still more ignorant so-called doctor's, or old wives, 
who perambulate the streets pretending to cure 
infantile complaints. 

It is a marvel that so many of them escape 
84 



Infantile Disorders 


death, which seems lurking at every corner ready 
for them. For the last hundred years the little 
ones have been protected from' the ravages of 
smallpox, which as an epidemic previously swept 
like a plague over the land, devastating many 
a home. Inoculation was in vogue before that. 
Babies in China have, however, the monopoly of 
vaccination ; for the Chinese have not yet learned 
the utility of re-vaccination. Consequently nearly 
every winter there are still a number of cases of 
smallpox. 



CHAPTER VIII 


The Past of John Chinaman 

O F all men John Chinaman has a past. Some 
people are ashamed of their past, but John 
Chinaman need not be ; fori his is a: glorious 
past. He has taken full advahtage of it, and 
lived in it for many centuries, even fot millenniums 
long gone by. In truth, so long back has his 
vision extended that until just recently he was very 
short-sighted to many aspects of the present, 
so accustomed had he become to only gazing with 
ecstatic rapture on the golden ages of the sages, 
instead of looking to the future or rejoicing in' 
the present. His outlook is now extending, and 
embraces a glorious future, though, unaccus- 
tomed as he has made himself to look forward, 
his vision is apt to be distorted. He sees men as 
trees walking ; his perspective is uncertain. But 
as the mists of the past dissolve, and as he adjusts 
his sight to the new standpoint, the objects he 
has in view will fall into their, true relationships 
with their environments. 

W!e, may open the page of histoiity at what correr 

86 



Early History 

spends to our iWestern era of 2356 B.c. There 
are volumes and pages before that ; but they are 
very blurred, and the writing is indistinct. Age 
has obscured the narrative ; legend and myth pre- 
dominate, and are so blended with a substratum 
of fact that the latter is obscured by the former, 
so that it is well-nigh impossible to unravel the 
thread of truth that may run through the tangled 
mass, even for long after the date already 
mentioned. 

Even the Chinese will not believe all their 
histories state. That they do not place implicit 
reliance on all, may be seen by the quotation 
from their classics in common use said to those 
who rely implicitly on whatever is printed. The 
sentence is : “It would be better to be without 
The Book of History than to give entire credit 
to it.” 

What transcendent interest would attach to the 
beginnings of a race like the Chinese if any 
records of that distant past could be discovered I 
Had the tribes which came into the land from, 
say, the north-west and spread over it, only had 
scribes or historiographers, and noted their 
joumeyings, told their impressions, described the 
new land, written down their numbers in hiero- 
glyphic or cuneiform or tadpole-characters on rock 
or stone or on clay -cylinders, what ali hiatus in 
the world’s history would have been bridged over ! 
But, alas ! there seems nothing authentic to be 
found, ht present, at all events. 

87 



The Past of John Chinaman 


The Chinese do not, like the Hindoos, go back 
to an era called “ The Unspeakable Inexpres- 
sible,” which requires several pages full of cyphers 
following a unit to express this inexpressible, or, 
to be more precise, 4,456,448 cyphers after a 
figure 1 . The Chinese ai^e content with 500,000 
years for their mythological period. 

There is one thing to be observed in the account 
of the early eras which Chinese history reaches 
out to embrace in its grasp. It has been very 
well put, by one authority on the Chinese, as 
follows : There is no hierarchy of gods brought 
in to rule and inhabit the world ; ” they made “ no 
conclave on Mount Olympus, nor judgment of the 
mortal soul by Osiris ; no triansfer of human love 
and hate, passions and hopes to^ the powers above ; 
all here is ascribed to disembodied agencies or 
principles, and their works are represented as 
moving on in quiet order.” 

How universal the belief in giants in olden 
times appears to have been 1 Those in China: 
were beneficent beings, though manlike, herculean 
in strength and enormous in size. The great giant 
Poon Kwu out-distanced all others, as he grew 
six feet every day. As he lived 18,000 years, his 
length of days must have kept pace pretty well 
with his height. Mankind has benefited by his 
labours to this day, as he hewed out the earth 
from chaos with chisel and mallet. He was im- 
mortalised by his transformation into the different 
elements : his br'eath into winds and clouds ; his 

88 



Ancient Worthies 


voice into thundei^ ; his perspiration into rain ; 
while the mountains, the rivers, the fields, the 
stars, the herbs and trees, the metals, rocks, and 
precious stones were also formed from different 
parts of his body, and last of all the parasites on 
him became human beings. A trio of rulers 
succeeded for another 18,000 y^ars, when a batch 
of inventions, &c., took place, such as good govern- 
ment, the art of eating and drinking, marriage, 
and sleep. But we cannot follow the course of 
true, or even false, Chinese history through all its 
wonderful stories and narrations, and recount the 
marvels that occurred in the reigns of Fu-hsi, 
Yao, Shun, and Yu’s reigns, at which time, perhaps, 
the present race of Chinese came into China. 

The names of Fu-hsi and Sh^n-nung and 
Hwang-ti stand out prominently as amongst the 
greatest benefactors of the race, the last being 
the reputed founder of this great Empire. In 
Yu’s time the great deluge in China took place, 
the precursor of many a subsequent and serious 
overflow of the Yellow River. At that time China 
enjoyed her golden age, and heaven even sent 
showers of gold, which a more prosaic age will 
probably suppose to be meteoric showers. 

Yau, Shun, and Yii were a trio, of sages or 
worthies, on which subsequent China has exhausted 
her praise, and eulogium' caps eulogium in a de- 
lineation of their perfect characters and virtues. By 
reflecting their grandeur and nobility of character 
and worth, Confucius, the Sage of all Sages in 

89 



The Past of John Chinaman 

the Land of Sages, is exalted. Against the back- 
ground of evil — a degenerate age compared with 
China's golden age — he and Mencius shine with 
all the lustre of those who, single-hearted and 
noble of aspiration, work all their lives for the 
good of their country. 

Lao-tsz, another of earth's most noble men, left 
his impress on his country and people, tincturing 
their life-stream, as Confucius and Mencius have 
done in time past and, though in a lessening 
degree, still destined to do for time to come ; 
their influence in the future will not be what it 
has been hitherto — some of China's young students 
are saying that they have no use for Confucius now. 

A feudal age was this : scores pf contending 
states warred amongst themselves. War was their 
play ; but they played fast and loose with much 
of what should have been held in solemn esteem ; 
hence the strong disapproval of Confucius ; hence 
the stem lectures of Mencius ; hence the terse 
aphorisms of Lao-tsz. The country was politically 
split up into small states ; little kingdoms with 
petty tyrants as rulers. Out of the turmoil and 
confusion one suzerain, or powerful state, rose to 
the supreme power, and China consolidated into 
a whole, the smaller kingdoms being, absorbed, 
under the famous, or infamous, Tsun Shih Hwang 
Ti. He was the builder of the Gre,at Wall, of 
palaces, and public edifices, and the constmctor of 
canals and roads ; alas ! also, the destroyer of 
the books and literati. With overweening confi- 

90 



Succeeding Dynasties 


dence, having, as he thought, destroyed all records 
of the past, he called himself the First Emperor. 
The tyrant’s hand was powerless ovet the memory 
of those scholars who escaped the massacre meted 
out to their fellows, and by their aid, assisted by 
a few copies hidden away while the iconoclastic 
storm raged, the ancient classics were restored 
to China. Thus closes the ancient history of this 
Empire. 

After this Han and Tong and Sung and Yuen 
and Ming and Tsing all succeeded each other in 
the dynastic history of this great and mighty 
Empire. They came and went, colouring with 
their, distinctive features the land and the people. 
The last dynasty has yellow for its royal hue. 
Some might say jaundice and decay werle typified 
by this ; and such a statement would not have been 
amiss a few years since ; but now let us rather 
hope with the uplift of China’ that it presages 
a golden future. 

Many a grand example has been shown to 
descendants on the Imperial throne by those who 
conformed to the precepts laid down in the ancient 
Book of History, one of which runs as follows : 
“ Order your affairs by righteousness, order them 
by propriety, so shall you transmit a great example 
to posterity.” Unfortunately posterity did not 
always follow the example laid doiwn by the first 
rulers of dynasties, with the result that ere long 
a new dynasty arose, and swept aVay the corrup- 
tion of the last. Time and again this occurred. 

91 



The Past of John Chinaman 


Energy, vigour of action, uprightness of purpose, 
signalised the rise of most of the many regal 
houses in China. The introduction of fresh blood 
into the royal palaces was aJ harbinger ,of hope 
for the whole Empire ; but the rojal breed soon 
deteriorated ggain, as effeminacy and luxury, con- 
cubines and eunuchs exerted their influence. Is 
not all this, as a skeleton, recorded in the thousand 
and one histories in China, and flesh tints and 
blood hues sparsely added d la Chinois? But, to 
the European student who is not imbued with the 
enthusiasm for the Orient and touched with the 
glamour of the East, it is pretty much a: dead 
past, which requires the vivifying influence of an 
Occidental imagination tp breathe the breath of 
life into the inanimate mass, and to collect the 
bones, lying as debris in a valley of apparently 
dry bones, into a corporate whole. Many pages, 
however, of the thousands of volumes ai'e of great 
interest, and were they not set up in an almost 
dead language known to so few, they would not 
be so unknown in the West. 

The Chinese prize their past, and while the 
present is fast transforming itself into that past, 
the Imperial historiographers in Peking are busy 
transcribing its momentous events for the future, 
an unknown and indefinite future, in which at the 
right moment — when the reigning dynasty has its 
record closed, and not till then — the books will be 
unsealed. Until then they are sealed books, and 
not even the Emperor himself may know what is 

92 



Ancient Records 


being written of Ms actions and deeds^ and whether 
praise or blame is assigned to him and his pro- 
genitors for the last three hundred years. 

There seems something awe-inspiring in this 
silent record, shut out from the knowledge of all, 
ceaselessly going on, and no one able to add to 
it, or alter it except those specially set apart for 
the purpose. When those whose story is recorded, 
and to whom' praise and blame have been assigned 
—when these and all connected with them' are dead 
and gone the books will be brought out, and 
judgment delivered to future generations ; then 
the censures and eulogies are first seen by the 
public, when the remotest chance of suppression 
of, or interference with, the truth has gone. 

Not only are there general histories of China, 
running up into hundreds of volumes, but special 
periods are selected by those who are interested in 
them, and treated of exhaustively. 

One of the most interesting stories in China 
is the historical novel, known as The History of 
the Three Kittg^dpmis, and many of the Chinese have 
learned more of history from’ it than from the real 
history of the period itself. It deals with the 
feudal times, and the intrigues and wars and the 
doughty doings of some of China's most renowned 
statesmen. 

Long before our Saxon chroniclers were penning 
their narratives, and before C^sar was describing 
his invasion of our shores, Chinese historians were 
gravely recounting their country's wonderful 

93 



The Past of John Chinaman 

history, and the tale has been continued down to 
the present day. The strangers within the gates 
of this Empire from our Western lands who have 
studied the Chinese historical works most — and 
they are a score in number of the leading sino- 
logues — speak highly of them. With all their im- 
perfections they are far and away the best con- 
tinuous history of any Asiatic people. 

Amidst some of the most famous of the thousands 
of histories extant in China may be mentioned 
The, Book of History (one of the “ Five Classics ”), 
The Bamboo Annals, and the great historical works 
known as The Seventeen Histories, in two hundred 
volumes. The Twenty -two Histories, The General 
Mirror of History, History Made Easy, and The 
Historical Memoirs . 

As one writer has well said : “ The Emperor 
and his ministers fill the whole field of historic 
vision ; little is recorded of the condition, habits, 
arts, or occupations of the people, who are merely 
considered as attendants of the monarch, which 
is, in truth, a feature of the ancient records of 
nearly all countries and peoples.” i Events which 
must have been of thrilling interest, if noticed at 
all, are dismissed with a word or two. No wonder 
the Chinese histories, so meagre in detail at first, 
develop into many volumes eventually, as the 
dynasties are twenty -five in number, only reckoning 
from: B.c. 2205 with a duration of 164 or 165 
years on an average to each d5masty for the 4, 1 1 7 
' Williams, p. 154. 

94 



Picturing the Past 


years. The sovereigns during that period were 
225, thus giving an average of a little over eighteen 
years to each emperor. The present dynasty has 
lasted for 267 years, with ten monarchs, two of 
whom occupied the throne for sixty years. The 
second who reigned so long might have gone on 
still longer as ruler of this mighty nation, but con- 
sidered it an act of filial piety to abdicate, so as 
not to exceed the time his grandfather reigned. 

How difficult it is to throw oneself back into 
bygone times, and try in thought to live the life 
which lies buried in the past, a phase or two of 
which has been caught and preserved in the books ! 
Doubly difficult is it for the Occidental to picture 
the past of the East, though a life lived in that 
quarter of the world helps him' to a better realisa- 
tion of it ; for the conditions in the Far East have 
not changed so vastly between the past and the 
present as they have in the Far West. 

A residence in the Far East also assists the 
Westerner to appreciate better what life must have 
been in his own land in the mediseval ages, as the 
current of events flows in pretty much the same 
channels, or has done up to the present, at one 
extremity of the world as it did in the other 
extremity, some five hxmdred years ago. The 
conditions of life, the difficulties of travel, and 
many other aspects of existence, are all reminiscent 
of the accounts the Englishman has read of how 
his own countrymen, in common with, the rest of 
Europe, lived in the time of Chaucer, and later. 

95 



The Past of John Chinaman 

Much has disappeared for ever from the records of 
the past both in the East and West; and left many 
gapS; though with the fewer changes that have 
taken place in China; the past is better compre- 
hended than it is with us ; for the present, to an 
enormous extent, has been simply a continuation 
of what has gone on before. In the main, things 
have been the same for centuries as they were 
ages ago. The thoughts of the ancients crystallised 
into the classics, which hundreds of years ago had 
the fixed light of the Commentaries of Cha-Hsi 
turned on them', the sentiments of these old-world 
sages still prevailing ; the customs and manners 
have been based on the ancient Book of Rites; 
the same primitive plough, rake, and mattock of 
prehistoric times are in the hands of the farmer. 
The Chinese still lives in the cities that his 
forefathers built centuries ago ; the same old 
crenelated walls circle them ; the same narrow 
streets strike through them’ from gate to gate, 
or wriggle with sharp angles round the corners. 
The same temples, many of them built centuries 
ago, are scattered here and there, hidden among 
the low-lying houses, ti^d up, as it were, in the 
little intricate knots of evil -smelling alley -ways, 
set down where it needs an expert to find them'. 
The same old gods looking down from behind 
the flimsy curtains, and through the clouds of 
incense on the worshippers, as generation after 
generation have come before them with their woes 
and joys — ^in grief with lamentations, hnd in joy 

96 



Unchanged and Changing 

with exultation of heart and with thanksgjivings . 
The ancient styld of the houses is still adhered 
to— the changes being but slight, glass gradually 
taking the place of the oyster -shell or the oiled 
paper. 

And a;ll these things must enable the Chinese 
to picture their past far more easily than we 
can ours, where nearly everything is changed so 
completely, not only as regards the furnishing for, 
and providing of, our daily wants, but also as 
concerns our mental apparelling and pabulum. 

But this is evidently all to be changed in the 
future. The tendency is towards change, for even 
now a beginning is being made in the demolishing 
of the relics of the past. It is to be hoped that 
this will not be allowed to be carried to too great 
an extent ; for a day will come when, as in the 
West, it will be difficult without special study to 
picture the past, to give it a living reality, to 
bring it vividly before the mind, and see it as it 
was. 

Proposals have been made with regard to some 
cities to throw down their walls and turn them 
into boulevards, as in Paris ; in Nanking a good 
carriage road has been made,; an embankment 
is constructed on the river-front in Canton, and 
other improvements of a like nature are taking 
place ; so that when the present in China changes 
to the past, it will in the future be a different 
past from what the present past has been. 

John Chinaman was very self-contained in his 

97 



The Past of John Chinaman 

past. He jostled against his neighbours, to bte 
sure, but he gave tnore than he took in the process, 
arid held himself vvith the pride which such a 
free imparting necessarily produces. From small 
beginnings the Empire grew, spreading out ; now 
restricted, now divided, now united, and surging 
forward and extending still further the realms, 
till in the Tang they reached the Caspian. China 
has had her invasions, as well as invaded other 
countries. All the neighbouring nations have felt 
the force of her arms, and her prowess has broken 
many an insurrection. Her own people have ruled 
her through most of her history, but Tartar, 
Mongol, and Manchu have all had their turn, and 
the latter is still the ruling power. It may truly 
again be said tha;t China’s past is not one to he 
ashamed of ; on the contrary it is one the people 
may well be proud of. 

The present is a crucial period in China. The 
revolution now taking place is affecting the whole 
aspect of national life ; history is being made 
rapidly. The new patriotism is arming thousands 
of the young Chinese with valour, and thrilling 
them with ardour to do or die at their country’s 
call. 


98 



CHAPTER IX 


The Mandarin 

T he word mandarin (the last vowel pro- 
nounced as ee) is derived from the Portu- 
guese word mandar, to command, and means the 
members of the body of officials who have the 
power and right to govern the people. 

Mandarindom' is retruited from the ranks of the 
people; it is not hereditary, but those who fill 
it are by merit raised to that high eminence. It 
is not a nobility, but is simply the higher ranks 
of the civil, military, and naval services. Not 
every official is a mandarin, but every mandarin 
is an official. 

There is nothing in our Civil Service externally 
to distinguish officials ; but a mandarin is clad in 
gorgeous robes of silk and satin, wears sL red- 
torded hat, and, to cap all, a button, as it has 
been termed, at the apex of his conical-shaped 
hat. It is called a button by courtesy, although 
it is not a button at all, but a round ball, like the 
gilt ball tfiat surmounts some military helm;ets,. 

99 



The Mandarin 


It is in some cases ^ elongated into a spike-shaped 
termination to the hat^ as^ again, on other helmets. 
The mandarin wears these robes and hat on all 
occasions when in the public performance of his 
official duties. He is not compelled, like the 
private soldier with us, always to appear in 
uniform, for he may appear in mufti when off 
duty. 

Of these so-called buttons there are nine 
different kinds, or rather there are nine different 
grades of those who wear them'. The colour 
and material of these appendages to the hat show 
forth the rank of the wearer. Three of the lowest 
grades of rank are represented by buttons iden- 
tical, or nearly so. The status of these three 
classes are shown by the round knobs on their 
hats being of gold — plain gold in the seventh and 
worked gold in the two lower ranks. The highest 
ranks have a ruby and coral button respectively; 
then come a sapphire and a lapis lazuli; and next 
a crystal and white stone. 

The position which the high official holds as 
regards the nine divisions is also set forth in the 
embroidered robe. A square of embroidery in the 
front and back of the long gaberdine, or robe, is 
in the case of the civil mandarins worked with 
birds for decoration. These birds are the crane, 
golden pheasant, peacock, wild goose, silver 
pheasant, egret, and others, each serving to show, 
as in the case of the buttons, the rank which the 
official who wears them’ has attained. 


lOO 




ROOM IN GOVERNOR'S VAMEN. 


Insignia of Mandarins 


In the case of the army and navy (which have 
been hitherto considered as one service), wild 
beasts are used, as more typical of the position 
of such officers. Until lately combatant officers 
were considered vastly inferior to their brethren of 
the civil service, though both branches of the 
services unite in having the same kind of girdle- 
clasps. To one well versed in these distinctions 
in dress, there is no difficulty in being able to 
differentiate between the rank of the wearers, oc 
to distinguish between the peace officials and those 
whose business is war. 

Besides the buttons and other insignia of rank, 
mandarins, instead of the orders with which our 
Government servants arc rewarded, have varying 
Imperial presents or privikiges granted them, such 
as the yellow riding-jacket, permission to ride 
within the palace gates. See. In addition almost 
every high offitial wears the single-eyed or the 
double-eyed peacock feather, which is affixed to 
the back of the official hat, and slopes down over 
the neck. 

The mandarin bears no sword as the insighia 
of his work- it is no part of the court dress, as 
in our Western nations, and this is emblematical 
of the Chinese attitude towards the sword and 
all that it connotes, or is the emblem of. It is 
taken up by those whose business it is to use 
it, when it is considered to be necessary to draw 
it in warfare, but it is not constantly worn at the 
side ready for action. It has not been, as in our 

lOI H 



The Mandarin 


countries at one time, part of a g'entleman’s dress. 
In fact, it was rather derogatory to the gentleman 
to have anything to do with such a war -like 
weapon. What place the renaissance of China 
may give to the sword remains to be seen, but it 
is at present against the Chinese spirit to glorify 
such an emblem of destruction. The military 
career has been hitherto despised as a low calling 
compared with civil employment. 

A high official is supposed to be a man of 
weight in China ; for his sedan-chair is borne 
by eight coolies, while a decrease in rank only 
entitles to four bearers, and the lowest officials are 
carried, as every one may be, by two. A little 
procession attends the goings -out and comings -in 
of the higher mandarins. “ The usual attendants of 
the district magistrate are lictors with whips and 
chains — significant of the punishments they inflict ; 
they are preceded by two gong-bearers, who every 
few moments strike a certain number of ” great 
blows on their gongs, “ to intimate their master’s 
rank, and by two avant-couriers, who howl out 
an otder for all to make room for the great man. 
A servant bearing aloft a loh^ or state umbrella,” 
“ also goes before him, further to increase his 
display and indicate his rank.” A subordinate 
“ usually runs by the side of his sedan, and his 
secretary and messengers, seated in more ordi- 
nary chairs, or following on foot, make up the 
cortege. Lanterns are used at night, and red 
tablets in the daytime to indicate his rank.” 

102 



Way for the Great 

Officers of higher ranks have a few soldiers in 

addition. I 

It will thus be seen that there is much of pomp 
and circumstance about the Chinese mandarin’s 
life. When he stirs out of his yamen on official 
duties or to pay a ceremonial call, a salute of three 
guns is fired, which informs the whole city that 
the ‘‘ great man ” is going out. When the highest 
officials pass through the streets, all traffic is sus- 
pended, and the populace line the sides of the 
narrow streets even before the procession comes, 
none daring to walk down the open space left 
in the centre until the great and awful magnate 
has passed, when the busy street resumes its wonted 
aspect. 

While awaiting his coming the loud booming of 
the deep-toned gong announces his advent. Per- 
fect silence reigns supreme, only broken by the 
cries of his attendants, as their shouts clear the 
way from any possible misapprehension of their 
master’s greatness. There is no cheering, no 
lifting of hats, for the good reason that the majority 
have no hats to lift in summer, and at all times in 
China it would, according to their etiquette, be 
rude to bare the head before a superior, unless 
the hat be a common felt hat or a workman’s 
enormous bamboo one. Even if the dignitary be a 
popular official, this dead, undemonstrative silence 
prevails, though a petition may occasionally be 
thrown into his chair. No notice is taken by the 
* Williams, i. pp. 503-4. 

103 



The Mandarin 


great man ” himself of what passes before his 
eyes : he sits impassive as a Buddha^ utterly de- 
tached, it would appear, from all his surroundings, 
and to all appearance apathetic and untouched 
by what he may see, seeing, but not apprehending 
— dead, one would think, to all mundane affairs. 
Such is considered the proper attitude for a 
mandarin to assume. 

The Cantonese Viceroy, Yeep, who was taken 
prisoner by the English and carried to India, on 
nearing Calcutta, at the termination of his voyage, 
felt no interest to all outward appearance in his 
surroundings, and evinced no desire to see the new 
land to which he had come. Nevertheless he was 
suddenly surprised, by some one unexpectedly 
coming into his cabin, in the act of gazing out 
of the port-hole. He had clambered there to get 
a view of the strange city and land to which he 
was coming. Chinese mandarins are men after 
all, but they are not expected to show it to the 
public. 

A curious feature in a mandarin’s procession 
is the great screen-like fan on a pole which is 
carried before him by one of the retinue. If the 
procession of another mandarin is met, and, as 
one of our poets writes. 

Beneath the Imperial fan of state 
The Chinese Mandarin 

is seen, then if superiority of position does not 
demand recognition and the necessary delay, the 

104 



An Arduous Life 


gigantic fans in each procession are interposed 
hastily by their bearers between the two officials, 
and the fiction of not having seen each other is 
acted on. 

The life of an official in China, if he occupies 
a high position and rules over a populous district 
of country, is arduous in the extreme. He knows 
no hours. His work is never done. He is up 
before dawn, and official receptions take place in 
the small or early hours of the morning. The 
health of many a man is injured by the incessant 
toil and unremitting anxiety. His only long 
holiday is when his father or mother dies ; then 
he has to resign office nominally for three years — 
the period of a son’s mourning for his parents — 
but really only for twenty -seven months. A few 
feast-days may give him some amount of respite, 
and a month at New Year some degree of rest, 
when his seal is given over to the custody of 
his wife, where it would be difficult for any rascal 
to obtain it and use it wrongfully. His only chance 
of retirement is on account of ill-health, and it 
has to be so pronounced as to render him: unfit 
for public toil ; repeated requests for permission to 
retire on the score of illness are often refused. 

Not only is the mandarin often hard- worked, 
harassed with many cares, and loaded with 
responsibilities, but also his tenure of office is in- 
secure. He is subject to blame for no fault of 
his own, such as, for instance, an extensive con- 
flagration in the city which is the seat of the 

105 



The Mandarin 


giovernment he is in charge oT, or a famine in 
the country, or a flood. He is bound to report all 
these. Should he put on too tight a pressure 
to raise money, and exceed the usual amount of 
taxation to which people under him have been 
accustomed, then all the shops in the aggrieved 
portion of the city may be closed as a protest 
against his exactions, and he must hasten to 
reduce his extortionate demands, lest the report 
of it should reach head-quarters. He has enemies 
all round him who, if he has offended them or 
passed them over, or if he stands in their way, 
are ready to magnify his peccadilloes, and report 
his flagrant crimes or dereliction of duty. When 
reporting his own shortcomings, he asks that 
punishment may be meted out to him' for his 
misrule in allowing such calamities and disasters, 
as mentioned above, to visit the people under 
his charge. This curious custom is carried so 
far that the occupant of the throne himself 
publicly confesses to his people, when any 
disasters occur, that they are the result of his 
shortcomings . 

The poor mandarin often has a bad time; for 
there is a body of censors, officially appointed, 
whose duty is to pounce upon him and bring any 
misdeeds, sometimes fancied, sometimes real, to 
the notice of the Son of Heaven himself. Nor, 
indeed, has it been unknown that some brave and 
noble censor who has had the weal of his country 
at heart, has even dared to point out to the occupant 

io6 



The Way to Office 

of the Dragon Throne his— the Emperor’s— mis- 
deeds. 

It is not imCpossible for some enemy^ high in 
power, to ruin the mandarin, by procuring frequent 
promotions for him. Scarcely is he settled in a 
position at one extremity of the Empire, when he 
may have to travel across to the other extreme ; 
and this may be repeated to different distant 
provinces. The poor official’s funds and resources 
will be then more than exhausted, and ruin stare 
him in the face. Such a case has occurred before 
now. 

Every native-born American may rise to be 
President of the United States, so every Chinese 
youth, unless he belongs to the prohibited classes 
(such as the barber, the play-actor, the yam^n- 
runner, and until recently the boat -man, all to the 
third generation), may rise to the highest position 
in the Empire, short of the throne itself. The road 
is through education. This is the incentive offered 
to every budding schoolboy, the motive that spurs 
on the flagging energy of the worn-out student, 
the goal which the graduate may hope to attain. 

The naval and military mandarin has gained 
his position, till quite recently, by athletic prowess, 
hence his inferior standing. Brains have been at 
a discount in these branches of the Government 
service. This is now being changed. 

The military mandarin has the power of life 
and death in his hands, for martial law prevails 
in the army. It is thus not only in the time of 

107 



The Mandarin 


war that the Chinese soldier carries his life in 
his hands, but in the time of peace as well ; for if 
he be guilty of any crime, off goes his head in 
a twinkling. 

Bribery and corruption reign rampant in China, 
as they do in most Asiatic countries. A premium 
is put on the system, as the salaries and allow- 
ances given even to the highest officials are not 
sufficient to meet the current expenses of the estab- 
lishments they have to keep up. A viceroy ruling 
millions of people will have a salary, the equivalent 
of that paid to a European clerk or mercantile 
assistant in Hong Kong or Shanghai. He gets a 
few“ allowances, to be sure, but these are also on 
a small scale. True, he has his yamen^ that is, 
courts, prisons, offices, barracks, and private resi- 
dence, all in one large congeries of buildings — 
a maltam in parvo — but all these need to be kept in 
repair in a trying climate which, with the aid of 
white ants, seems determined to ruin a building 
as soon as possible. He has tO' maintain his body- 
guard and numerous servants — a plurality of 
servants is a necessity in the East. He has to 
support his family, and it is probably a large one, 
with n^t a few wives and many children. He 
gets no ' pension, and so has to make enough to 
permit him to spend his old age in comfort and 
ease. He must pay the travelling expenses for 
himself and family and suite, as well as servants, 
from his last appointment, or from Peking, and 
it may be a journey of hundreds or thousands of 

io8 



The Omnipresent Bribe 

miles by land or river or sea. Also money must 
be saved up for presents to superiors^, or even 
to the highest and most august personages in the 
Empire on the expiry of his present term of 
office. 

How can all these expenses be met out of the 
paltry pay assigned to the office;, even supple- 
mented as it is by a few allowances ? The neces- 
sary consequence is that all officials;, with the 
rarest exceptions, are only too glad to receive 
presents from not only the officials under them, but 
from litigants and from whoever may have any 
request to make, or who is in any way brought 
into contact with the “ great man.” An honest 
mandarin, perfectly free from bribes and presents, 
finds himself hampered on all sides by a want of 
the money required for his needful expenses, and 
he dies not only poor, but deeply in debt, leaving 
his family in abject poverty. He, however, has 
the esteem' of the whole country; encomiums from 
high and low arc showered on his head, and 
fragrant is his memory. 

And yet the people foster and condone the 
very system they condemn by their approval of 
an honest official. It seems inbred in the bones 
of the man from the Far East to give presents 
and offer gifts. The present opens the way to 
a request, and paves the roafl for tlic asking of 
a favour. The Western oflicial in the liast dreads 
the advent of a present : timeo Datiaas et dona 
jerentes, Tlie only way to stop them is to set 

109 



The Mandarin 


one’s face as a flint against them, no matter how 
insignificant, valueless, or worthless they may be, 
when connected in any way with one’s official duties 
or life. It is the only safe course to pursue. 
Though there is so much corruption in China, there 
are not a few officials in China who have the 
welfare of their people at heart, and who try to 
rule as well as they can. 

A semi-official newspaper published in Peking 
informs us that “ The Chinese Government has 
decided to fix the emoluments and expenses of all 
officials, metropolitan and otherwise, and to forbid 
them to make extra money clandestinely. It has 
further decided to allow the officials of places 
along the coast double the pay of those in the 
interior. It is hoped that this reform will be 
put into force at no distant date.” This is good 
news, and it is to be hoped that it will really 
soon be put into force and be a death-knell to 
corruption, or at least the beginning of the end 
of the miserable state of affairs connected with 
mandarindom in China. 

The rank of mandarins is sometimes thrown 
open to aspirants to the honours of such exalted 
positions in the most curious ways, according to 
our notions of the fitness of things. If the Govern- 
ment is short of money, wealthy men may purchase 
rank, and be entitled to wear the robes, buttons,, 
and other insignia of the position. This is in- 
veighed against every now and then by some 
officials who see the harm of it. Again, the leader 

no 



Purchased Rank 

of a rebellion is often bought over to the 
Imperialist side by the promise of office ; and 
if he has the faith to believe what is offered to 
him he often reaps the reward of that faith, but 
he sometimes pays for his belief with his life, 
as it is not considered treachery to break one’s 
word to an enemy of one’s country. 

The maxim that all is fair in war is fully 
believed in in the East. With those who purchase 
rank it is often simply the position and status 
that the money has obtained, and the right to 
appear on all occasions of ceremony in the robes 
and insignia that appertain to the rank pur- 
chased, though in some cases office itself is 
obtained. These recipients of official rank do not 
have the honour and the respect of their fellows 
which is accorded to those who have obtained 
the position by hard study and examination. In 
fact, there is .a certain feeling of contempt for 
them. There is no caste in China, though an 
Emperor’s son tried once to introduce it from 
India, fortunately without success. .The nearest 
approach to it is this class of mandarins, and 
the literati, forming the body of cadets who become 
the mandarins. There is also another class— -that 
of the gentry. These are composed of gentle- 
men, generally literati, and in this way the two 
circles impinge. These gentry, let it be under- 
stood, are not mandarins, but they have a good 
deal to say in local matters, and .sit in councijl 
on the affairs of the neighbourhood, and are looked 

111 



The Mandarin 


to by the mandarins to keep a certain amount of 
respectability and order in their neighbourhood 
— in fact^ they assist the officials to some extent 
in their governance of the people, as they are 
looked upon, as said above, for the maintenance 
of good order. Even in the villages this system' 
is carried out, and the elders of the village form 
a body who exercise a certain rule over their 
village. 

The Englishman goes abroad to foreign lands 
to take up the white man’s burden ; the Chinese 
mandarin also goes abroad to take up the yellow 
man’s burden — ^the load of his own country’s 
governance — for abroad it is to him in many a case, 
as he travels to strange scenes, he settles amongst 
those who talk a different language, and finds new 
customs and habits of life prevalent. He requires 
interpreters to understand what is being said, and 
to interpret what he says to the natives of the 
place. 

The language in which the official business 
is conducted is called Mandarin, and is spoken 
over a large part of China. All mandarins, if 
it is not their native tongue, learn it ; but it 
is a foreign speech to many of them and often 
badly spoken by those who thus acquire it. 

A mandarin’s tenure of any particular office is 
for three years, unless promotion comes sooner, 
when there is another uprooting, and he is abroad 
again, though at home in his own land ; for no 
official is allowed to rule, except in the rarest cases, 

112 



Literary Pursuits 

in his own native province, as the Chinese use every 
safeguard to prevent favouritism. For this reason 
he must not take a wife from amongst those he 
rules over, nor are father and son allowed to hold 
office in the same province. The son in such 
cases gives way to the father. An instance has 
just happened lately where a son was an intendant 
of circuit in the Honan province, and his father 
was appointed governor of that province. The 
son had to be transferred to another part of the 
country. 

Many a mandarin comes up from the long 
curriculum of study that is necessary to gain 
success at the examinations (which are the doors 
to the waiting-room for candidates to office) an 
ardent student, and he employs what leisure he 
has in literary labours and the composition of 
verse. Many of the works that add to the lustre 
of China’s literature are due to the pen of her 
mandarins. 

The official government of China is to the 
stranger apparently a complex one ; but on a 
closer examination of it, it will be found to be 
more simple than was at first thought to be the 
case ; and it is one which is, on the whole, well 
.adapted to the people. In the provinces the 
mandarins arc formed into different boards, or 
committees of ways and means, for the depart- 
ments or provinces over which they have sway. 
In the metropolis, where the government centres 
for the whole Empire, there are numerous boards, 

”3 



The Mandarin 


which fulfil the functions of equivalent departments 
of state and councils of one sort and another in 
our Western lands. Attention has already been 
called to one of the most curious of these, the 
Censorate, composed of some forty or fifty 
members . 

A system of promotion and degradation is 
established for officials, and the curious part of 
it is that the mandarin, in the proclamations he 
issues, details them. The fortunate, or un- 
fortunate, man cannot hide his honours or his 
disgraces, and the same individual has, if high 
in the service, several of each to his name. He 
first gives his surname, with the offices he holds, 
and then he sets forth how many times he has 
been promoted and how often degraded. It is 
a well-understood thing. No one thinks any the 
worse of him for it ; the one falls as much to 
his lot as the other, if long in the service. Nor 
can he avoid the one more than the other ; and 
he may not be worthy of the one, nor to blame 
for the other. 

Already there are signs that the gorgeous East 
will conform herself to the West more and more 
in the future than she has done in the past : 
already the naval officers of the modern warships 
have adopted the Western style of uniform, for 
flowing robes and silks and satins are not con- 
gruous with the modem battleship. They may 
be in unison with the old bizarre war-junk, all 
gay with bright colours and streamers, but invisible 

1 14 



Naval Uniform 


grey ironclads take a different dress, sober hues 
are more in keeping with their sober colours. The 
men also approximate more to the West in their 
uniform, though there is enough of the East about 
it to make it more picturesque, for a bit of 
colour is imparted to it by the scarlet cummer- 
bund round the waist of the sailors. 



CHAPTER X 


Law and Order 

A n elaborate code of laws, in existence for 
many centuries, is the ground-work which 
governs the action of those who administer the 
laws. As each new dynasty occupies the throne, 
a new revision takes place, and a digestion of 
the former code, and the result is a new edition 
or version, the foundations of which were laid 
twenty centuries since, when a simple code was 
drawn up, based on an even still earlier and more 
rudimentary system. The evolutionary process has 
gone on all down through the ages. There have 
arisen, of course, as different additions were made, 
ambiguity, confusion, complications, intricacies and 
inconveniencies, artificialities and complexities ; 
but what complex and full system of law does 
not contain within it all these faults? Take it 
all in all, the Chinese penal code is admirably 
adapted to the requirements of its teeming popu- 
lation of law-abiding subjects, taking into con- 
sideration the great difference in the fundamental 
principles on which the superstructure is founded.'’ 

ii6 



Guilt Presumed 


The Edinburgh Review said of the code : 
** We scarcely Imo.w any European code that is 
at once so copious and so consistent, or that is 
so entirely free from intricacy, bigotry, and 
fiction. In everything relating to political free- 
dom or individual independence it is indeed woe- 
fully defective ; but for the repression of dis- 
order and the gentle coercion of a vast population, 
it appears to be equally mild and efficacious.” 

It is not to be expected that, opposite to ,us 
in so many things, the Chinese are at one with 
us in all the principles underlying their laws. We 
need not even travel to the other side of the 
world to find the greatest differences between the 
different nations in this respect. To take one 
of the chief axioms that prevails in our law courts, 
viz., that no man is guilty till proved to be so, 
and its corollary, that the prisoner or defendant 
is also, when once he has pleaded “Not guilty,” 
in all his defence to pose as if he believed so 
himself, while the magistrate or judge gives him 
all the assistance he can in keeping' up the 
semblance of innocence until he is proved guilty. 

Almost the contrary principle prevails in China, 
with, no doubt, the result that a less number of 
guilty ones escape through the meshes of the law 
than under the Bidtish system, though it is to 
be feared that occasionally some innocent ones are 
caught, and suffer for uncommitted crimes, perhaps 
at times not a few. Were no other influences 
brought into play than those which are seen, there 

1x7 I 



Law and Order 

is no doubt the system' would work admirably, 
and the well-being of the many be conserved. 
The laws are divided into the lat, or fundamental 
laws, and lai^ supplementary laws : the former 
are permanent ; the latter, which are liable to 
revision every five years, are the modifications, 
extensions, and restrictions of the fundamental 
laws. Each article of the fundamental laws has 
been likewise explained or paraphrased by the 
Emperor Yung Ching, and the whole of the text 
is further illustrated by extracts from the works 
of various commentators. These appear to have 
been expressly written for the use and instruc- 
tion of magistrates, and accordingly form a 
body of legal reference directly sanctioned for 
that purpose by the Government.” 

To a certain extent the Chinese officials partake 
more of the character of the commissioners or 
collectors in our Indian Empire. There are judges 
or, judicial commissioners, who ai^e few in number, 
and of exalted position ; one serving for a 
province, with twenty million or more inhabitants ; 
almost all the other officials, from the district 
magistrate upwards, perform judicial functions, as 
well as fiscal and executive. From a court of 
first instance, if the crime deserves it, the criminal 
is passed on to higher tribunals, to fix his fetters 
still stronger on him or to release his bonds. 
The consequence of all this is that a large city 
will contain several prisons attached to the quarters 
and offices of different officials, 

xi8 



Prison Life 


With nearly everything connected with Chinese 
life, we must try and hark back to the condition 
of our own country in not later times than that 
of Queen Bess. Transferring ourselves in thought 
to this period of our country’s history, what would 
otherwise surprise us will appear perfectly reason- 
able and natural. 

It is not to be supposed, when the most 
elemental laws of sanitation have been unknown, 
that the prisoner will be treated with due regard 
to considerations for his health or well-being. 
Death, it is to be feared, claims some of his 
victims sooner than he is entitled to, and snatches 
them away before the formalities of the refer- 
ence to Peking and the reply from the Throne 
can be received. There is no proper supervision 
of the prisons : no visiting justices make a per- 
ambulation of them once a week, and listen to the 
complaints of the prisoners. Gaolers are keen 
on making the most they can from those com- 
mitted to their mercy, or rather want of mercy. 

The food supplied is not adequate, but every 
facility is allowed to friends and relations to sup- 
plement the meagre fare, which is not sufhcient 
to keep soul and body together. A silver key is 
necessary for any friends to gain access to a gaol, 
and the gauntlet of all the rapacious warders and 
guards can only be run with a full purse, pr 
an effective closing up of ingress is enforced. The 
prisoners are manacled in many cases, and herded 
together in large numbers, with no employment 

119 



Law and Order 

to ease the enforced confinement ; unshaven and 
unshorn^ they present a hideous sight. 

There are signs that this old regime is changings 
and prison reform^ which has but scarcely begun, 
will, we hope, ere long quite revolutionise the 
whole system. Not only are the underlings in the 
whole yamen open to the persuasive influence of 
silver, but gifts pervert justice amongst even the 
higher officials, and the longer purse is generally 
able to win the day in the long run. 

The extreme penalty of the law seems frequent 
in its infliction, but let us remember that in the 
time of our grandfathers, or fathers even, a man’s 
life was of less account than a sheep’s and 
hundreds were executed for stealing that animal. 
Probably life is as secure, if not a good deal 
more so, in China than it was in those days in 
our own land when the sacredness of human life 
was little respected. 

“ Criminals guilty of extraordinary offences, as 
robbery attended with murder, arson, rape, break- 
ing into fortifications, highway robbery, and piracy, 
may be immediately beheaded without reference ” 
to the Throne. “ In ordinary cases the executions 
are postponed till the autumnal assizes, when the 
Emperor revises and confirms the sentences of 
the 'provincial governors.” * 

There are two modes of capital punishment- 
decapitation and strangulation. Strangling is con- 
sidered the less disgraceful ; so much so^ tliat 
Williams, i. p. 512, 

120 



Torture 


when an official is deemed worthy of death it 
is an act of clemency for the Emperor to send 
him a silken cord;, wherewith he may execute the 
law privately on himself, and avoid a public death 
at the hands of the public executioner. 

There is a bit of untamed savagery in human 
nature which asserts itself if the opportunity is 
given it. This savagery found vent under the 
name of religion in the Inquisition ; under the 
name of the conservation of order it appears in 
the most disorderly manner in a Russian 
“ pogrom ” ; in the name of justice, in the most 
unjust proceedings of an American lynching ; in 
the name of an elucidation of the truth, in the 
torture of a Russian police cell, or a Chinese court 
of justice or prison. 

Human nature is the same the wide world over, 
and if the savage man has not his worse animal 
traits of character tamed by the beneficent effects 
of religion, calmed by self-control and a supreme 
regard for justice in all its aspects, the result 
is disastrous to his fellow-men should he have or 
usurp authority over them. They all serve to show 
—whether they be Russian pogroms,” Turkish 
massacres, American lynchings, Roman Catholic 
Inquisitions, English mob riots— how little a high 
degree of material civilisation really avails under 
certain conditions to restrain the primitive passions, 
even of the higher races. 

Torture in China is legal or illegal. The 
bamboo leads the way— the bamboo, universal in 

I2I 



Law and Order 


a land which might be termed The Land of the 
Bamboo. Our thumbscrew of old is replaced by 
finger-squeezers and ankle -squeezers. The illegal 
tortures, some of which, if not all, are winked at 
by those high in authority, are numerous, and 
show to what refinement of cruelty men’s coarse 
nature can descend, when once mercy goes by 
the board. 

There are indications that even legal torture 
will soon be illegal in this land, which is desirous 
of really taking her place properly amongst the 
foremost nations of the world. Edicts have been 
issued against the practice, and doubtless it will 
be a thing of the past ere long. 

Why is it done in the name of justide? 
Because the prisoner must confess his guilt — ^^a 
fiction of the law in China ; therefore torture must 
be resorted to to extort the confession. The wit- 
nesses will not tell the truth ; then physical pain 
and mental anguish will force it out of their lips. 
So the courts resound with blows and agonised 
groans and cries, and thus out of disorder order 
of a kind is evolved. Truth is thus supposed to 
grow amongst thorns and brambles ; but can 
Eschol clusters be thus obtained? The magistrate 
or judge has to do the best he can— and what can 
he do? The Chinaman’s mouth is full of lies — 
the East produces lies in abundance, as well as 
some truth. 

The Chinese are a law-abiding people. Crime 
is not rife amongst them> all things being taken 

122 



Local Self-Government 

into consideration. Indigent circumstance, the 
starvation point — these are the chief incentives to 
theft. The rapacity of bad officials is a’ very 
cogent reason in their eyes for rebellion, and a 
resort to its concomitant crimes and evils. Bad 
feeling, except in the case of clan fights, gener- 
ally finds relief in a storm of words ; angry 
passions find vent in noisy talk, and the situation 
is relieved. With the Chinaman, expression 
apparently relieves passion, arid the storm' of 
words calms the overwrought feelings. With the 
Englishman the altercation often ends in a fight ; 
the outpourings of taunts and reproaches only leads 
to assault and battery. 

To a considerable extent — though parliamentary 
life is but just beginning — and therefore in ri 
different way than in the West, the Chinese rule 
themselves. The elders in a village, acknowledged 
by the powers that be, have a considerable amount 
of power in their hands. Petty cases of theft, 
even in cities, are dealt with without recourse to 
the courts. A not uncommon punishment for this 
crime is the whipping through the streets. Here 
we have again a counterpart of flogging at a cart’s 
tail which some of our parents have seen in our 
own land. The stocks, too, of which relics are 
still standing in some of our villages, have their 
equivalent in the wooden collar, which;, however^ 
is more like the pillory of our own past times. 
Within this square collar of wood the criminal is 
unable to feed himself, and lias to endure the dis- 

123 



Law and Order 


comfort and ignominy of it often at the roadside. 
This cangue, as it is called, has been found an 
excellent deterrent in our own colony of Hong 
Kong, as a punishment for theft and other minor 
offences. And here let it be remarked that a 
Chinese mode of dealing with Chinese is often 
more effectual than our present up-to-date Western 
methods. 

Let us apply ati Eastern aphorism to an Eastern 
condition of affairs ; for it was well said that you 
could not put new wine into old bottles. After all, 
in a land which, from an Eastern standpoint, is 
law-abiding and orderly, an immense amount of 
disorderliness abounds and rampantly asserts itself, 
looked at from a Western point of view. 

If one were to take note of the constant reports 
of rebellion, the country would seem to be in a 
state of chronic rebellion. Little ebullitions are 
springing up every now and then here and there all 
over the country ; no sooner does one appear to be 
quieted in one quarter when another seems to raise 
its head in another part of the empire. There have 
been some of gigantic proportions, such, for 
instance, as the great Tai Ping rebellion, which 
shocked the whole world. This, though born in 
the southern provinces of China, swept over the 
whole of the central portion and located itself in 
the ancient capital city of Nanking for seventeen 
years (1850-67). The movement began under 
the leadership of a visionary, who, assimilating 
some of the truths of Christianity, and aided by 

124 



The Taiping Rebellion 

the dreams of a disordered mind, developed a 
political religion, which empowered him to rule 
over China, and drive the hated Manchu from the 
throne of his forefathers. 

At one time it really looked as if this would be 
accomplished. At first the utmost discipline 
appears to have been kept ; but round his standard 
and the nucleus of earnest, religious visionaries, 
a horde of riff-raff gathered, and the leader soon 
failed to show his right to take the crown from 
the foreign rulers of his country. 

This insurrection changed the fertile garden into 
a desert. The people were ground between the 
two forces, as between an upper and nether mill- 
stone. The city of Hankow was taken six times 
by the rebels in the course of thirty months. An 
attempt was made to reach Peking, but it failed. 
Ruthless conflicts occurred, in which the unoffend- 
ing inhabitants of the country suffered the horrors 
of civil war without any of the ameliorating con- 
comitants of such events in the West. Bloodshed 
and massacre ruled supreme throughout five 
immense provinces ; seventy thousand inhabitants 
perished in the city of Hangchau alone. Shanghai 
would have been taken but that the foreign 
residents in that city protected it. 

The recruits to the ranks of the insurgents, as 
time went on, were mainly conquered natives, who 
were forced to join them^ and who found them- 
selves between the frying-pan and the fire, as under 
these circumstances they were considered by the 

125 



Law and Order 


Imperialists to be rebels, and, if taken, were 
beheaded offhand. In fact, it seems that some, at 
all events, were branded on the cheeks by the 
rebels when thus conscripted into their ranks, so 
that escape was utterly impossible ; for they dared 
not show themselves again in their own homes or 
amongst their own people, with their apparent 
guilt plainly proclaimed on their faces. Untold 
horrors were inflicted on the people by both forces. 

The movement rapidly degenerated after the 
unsuccessful endeavour to reach Peking. There 
were dissensions amongst the leaders, though the 
new military commanders seemed to have the spirit 
of the first leaders. Eventually this gigantic 
revolution was killed by the aid of the foreigners, 
of whom, as leader. General Gordon was the most 
conspicuous. 

Thus ended one of the most disastrous rebellions 
that China has ever known, and her history is full 
of such events. The population of China was 
kept down within its present limits by these awful 
massacres of innocent and guilty alike ; for city 
after city was made a pile of ruins, and its 
inhabitants put to the sword. After the recapture 
of Nanking three days and three nights were spent 
in the massacre of its inhabitants by the 
Imperialists, and fourteen years after this city still 
lay in ruins. As another instance the case of 
Chang Chow, in Fokien, may be mentioned, where 
from' six to seven hundred thousand men were 
killed by the rebels or perished by disease. 

126 



Quelling Rebellions 

Of a different class are the Mohammeda n rebel- 
lions, of which there have been several serious 
ones during the last two or three centuries in 
China. The one in the north-west and the one in 
the south-west during the last century were most 
awful. They were fought with the greatest deter- 
mination on the part of the rebels, and in all 
these cases extermination seems to have been the 
rule on both sides. 

With a rebellion in China two methods can be 
adopted : the leaders of the outburst may be 
bought over and made mandarins, if the promise 
made to them to induce them to put down their 
arms is kept. If such is the case, they bring over 
with them their followers. The other alternative 
is extermination of all — man, woman, and child — 
and the razing of all the dwelling-houses to the 
ground. To understand what war in China is, we 
must again go back to the Middle Ages in Europe 
to find its counterpart. War at all times is savage, 
but in the East it is savage with a vengeance. 
Had the Mohammedan rebellion in the north-west 
not been put down, its followers in their fanatical 
zeal would have exterminated all who were not 
of their belief. Success at one time seemed to 
be within reach, so very serious was its character, 
as also was that in the Yunnan province. It must 
be noted that the latter was not due to religion. 
In China the sword is not use'd by the Moham- 
medan as a medium of converting the heathen to 
his faith. 


127 



Law and Order 


In addition to these convulsions, which almost 
shook the Empire to its very centre, there are 
little rebellions which, owing to the inability or 
corruption of the mandarins, are allowed to spread 
and increase in power and strength, till what might 
by just dealing and a vigorous system of repression 
have been avoided or overcome, is allowed to gain 
head until matters become serious. 

Added to all this there are clan fights in some 
parts of the country, where for years a species of 
vendetta is carried on between different villages, 
which at times almost rises to the magnitude or 
dignity of small civil wars, when troops have to 
be sent to put an end to the strife. 

An outbreak of another nature was known as 
the Boxer rising. Its most prominent features 
were the massacre of missionaries and native 
Christians, and the siege of the Legations in 
Peking. The year 1911 saw the outbreak of a 
revolutionary movement which, unlike the Boxer 
rising, is not directed against foreigners, but is 
the endeavour of young China to assert itself. Its 
object is the procuring of drastic reforms, with the 
remodelling of ancient institutions and customs, 
so that, as a rejuvenated people, the country may 
take its confident stand with the foremost nations 
of the world, as she was able to do in ages past. 


128 



CHAPTER XI 


The Diverse Tongues of John 
Chinaman 

T hough they are not so diverse in nationality 
as some congeries of people that call them- 
selves by the name of a nation, yet there has been 
a conglomeration of diverse elements amongst the 
Chinese. Why is such a fuss made about purity 
of blood? Is it because like rainbow gold it is 
nowhere to be found? With a nation like the 
Chinese it is nearer of attainment than with a 
composite people like ourselves — an amalgam of 
Briton and Saxon and Dane and Norman, to 
reduce it to its very simplest elements. 

Nor are the Chinese separated into such a 
multiplicity of races and tribes and peoples as 
the inhabitants of the Indian Empire, with their 
ninety languages and nine hundred dialects, though 
in the latter respect they are in the running, but 
somewhat behind ; for: they speak with cloven 
tongues, which help to render the cleavage more 
intense between different sections of the country. 

129 



Diverse Tongues 


The Chinaman has not an easy aptitude foi: 
learning to speak in other tongues, with their 
variations in * tone as well as their different 
cadences of accent. The best school for a 
Chinaman to learn Chinese as spoken by his 
fellow-countrymen a few hundreds of miles from 
where he himself lives is out of China. Let him 
be born in Singapore or the Straits Settlements, 
or thereabouts, in a world where he may lisp his 
baby -talk in as many Chinese languages as he has 
fingers on one hand, while he may take into count 
the fingers of the other hand with soft Malay 
and more robust English, and any other stray 
speech that may come across his way. It is 
curious to see how awkwardly a Chinaman 
splutters, in his attempts to pronounce what to 
him is virtually a strange tongue, even if it be one 
spoken within the borders of his own land. Again, 
if the average Englishman has a difficulty in 
learning to speak Chinese properly, the Chinese 
have equal difficulty in learning to speak our 
language, so bristling is it with difficulties of mood 
and tense and number and person and case and 
comparison, to say nothing of accent and voca- 
bulary and pronunciation. 

Now let it be clearly understood that Mandarin 
is not the language of China, though some people 
who ought to know better think and say so. It 
is true that Mandarin is the language spoken in 
Peking ; and a kind of Mandarin is the language 
of Nanking. A Mandarin of another kind is 

130 



Mandarin and Pekingese 


spoken in the extreme west. Possibly some other 
Mandarin of sufficient distinctive importance, and 
considerably different from^ those already known to 
the sinologue may yet be separated out from the 
others, and attain the honour of having dictionaries, 
grammars, and word- and phrase-books and 
various vade-mecums prepared for it by the in- 
dustrious and inquisitive foreign student in this 
Land of Many Speeches and Tongues. 

Mandarin in some form is spoken in fifteen 
provinces out of the eighteen. All officials of any 
position are supposed to speak Pekingese, as it 
would be impossible for an official to learn a 
dozen languages in the course of his career, ill- 
equipped as he is for the task by nature, by books, 
or by assistance of any kind, to say nothing of 
the months or years of inaction, should the new 
incumbents of the recently filled posts have to 
learn to speak another variety of their own tongue. 
Pekingese thus forms the lingua franca of the 
higher officials and their entourage. To deal with 
the millions of those under their rule interpreters 
have to be employed, if any verbal communications 
are to pass between those who govern and the 
governed : so that in court or elsewhere these 
interpreters are the media for the transmission of 
the evidence, the statements, the decisions, &c., 
unless the populace be a Mandarin-speaking one. 
There may be some fifty millions in China, or 
even more, to whom' Pekingese is a strange 
language. How many more there may be who are 

131 



Diverse Tongues 


supposed to be Mandarin -speakers, but whose dia- 
lect of that tongue is so different from the standard 
of the metropolis as to render it difficult for their 
rulers to understand what they say, it is impossible 
to even form' a guess. It has been said above 
that Pekingese is supposed to be spoken by the 
higher officials ; but many a one so mixes up 
his own particular form of Mandarin with the 
outward veneer of a: badly acquired Pekingese 
that till one gets acquainted with his peculiar and 
atrocious pronunciation or peculiar tones his 
language is not easily intelligible. 

Most ardent theatre-goers pick up a smattering 
of Southern Mandarin or Nankingese. Even in 
so-called Mandarin -speaking districts the people 
have a lingo of their own, which is not under- 
stood by those who have not made a special study 
of it. 

In South-Eastern China, extending even to the 
central coast-wise portion of the land, there are 
languages quite different from' Mandarin, millions 
upon millions of the speakers of which know no 
other language but their own. These languages 
are carried abroad by their speakers to our 
colonies, so that the complex problem' of Chinese 
all speaking languages and dialects differing from 
one another confronts our cadets and officials, in 
their endeavours to reach the governed in their 
own tongues. In the Straits Settlements there are 
Chinese from Canton, from Amoy, from Swatow, 
from Hainan, and there are Hakkas. It is possible 

132 




A FEMALE AC'ROliA'r 


Diversity and Unity 

there may be some from' the cities of Foochow, or 
Shanghai, or Ningpo, or even other places. Out 
of the eight places named above, five or six are 
so distinct in their speech from each other that 
those who come from' one of them cannot under- 
stand those from' the others. Of the remaining 
places, though the speech is dissimilar, yet the 
dwellers in one might understand one from' one 
or two of the other places, but not from the 
other spots. This method of stating the case m!ay 
serve to show that these languages are as distinct 
as European tongues, though at the same time 
there is a bond of union running through all, in 
a similarity of structure and a resemblance of form'. 
If one may use the simile, they are all built up on 
the same order of architecture, but though the 
main features are, on a cursory glance, the sam'e, 
yet such a variety of individual differences and 
outside influences have been brought to bear in 
some cases as to alter largely the apparent 
similitude. 

Most, if not all of these, are of more ancient 
origin than the Mandarin, and, as proof of this, 
traces of older times of one kind and another are 
found in them'. While a change more or less 
pronounced has taken place in all of them' from 
their remote antiquity, as compiared with the 
Mandarin, they are more conservative in their 
forms than the Northern Mandarin (of Peking) 
has proved itself to be in its proximity to the 
Tartar speeches of the north. 

133 


K 



Diverse Tongues 


The importance of the languages has been lost 
sight of by the name “ dialect ” being wrongly 
applied to them. This misuse of the term leaves 
no word to describe the dialects, which are so 
numerous as to have been said to equal in number 
the days in the year. In some parts of the country 
these are so many in number as to allow at least 
many a district (county) to have one of its own. 
These dialects are again subdivided into sub- 
dialects, and the subdivison goes on till at last 
even a city will have two or three local pecu- 
liarities in speech between its suburbs, and 
between them and the area within the walls 
itself. 

In the city of Canton, for instance, the language 
spoken in the west end differs in some slight 
respects from that spoken in the southern suburbs, 
and again, inside a part of the Old City (as 
the most ancient part of the city is called) 
the language is, on account of the banner -men 
and some Mandarin -speakers, corrupted . with an 
infusion of Mandarin ; while again that of the 
Ho Nam suburb differs in some respects from 
that of some other portions of the city. That of 
the western suburbs is the standard of correct 
pronunciation for the greater part of the province 
— in fact, the Cantonese which is respected by 
some 20,000,000 or more of people. The 
language used by some of the country districts 
not a hundred miles from Canton, is the pative 
tongue of hundreds of thousands of dwellers in 

134 



Linguistic Barriers 

city, town, and village, and is unintelligible without 
study to the cultured Canton city resident. 

As an instance of how it is impossible for the 
native of one part of China to understand one 
from another district, I may call attention to the 
curious sight, often seen in Hong Kong, of an amah 
(nurse in a foreign family) brought from, say, 
the north of China, conversing with another servant 
belonging to the Colony, not in their own native 
tongue, but in Pidgin-English, as otherwise they 
could not understand each other. Still more 
common is it in the courts of justice in that 
Colony to see an Englishman interpreting what 
one Chinaman says to another Chinaman, both 
living in the Colony, for the simple reason that the 
foreigner in this case has learned two or more of 
the Chinese languages, while the Chinese in ques- 
tion only know one each — that into which they 
were born, if one may so put it — and have never 
learned that of the other Chinaman, and so each 
is indebted to a foreigner to learn what their 
own countryman is saying. 

Conditioned by his surroundings and his loca- 
tion, and the different influences which have come 
into play upon him and his language, the divers 
tongues of the Chinaman differ in their charac- 
teristics. The Mandarin abounds in “ r’s,” and, 
though they are not rolled round the tongue as a 
Scotchman likes to enunciate them', yet they are 
not entirely lost sight of. The r is not found in 
the speech of the South of China. The Cantonese 

135 



Diverse Tongues 


is a soft and pleasant speech, while the Mandarin 
is more like the German with its force of utter- 
ance, as compared to the Italian sounds of the 
Cantonese. The Hakka is a half-way house 
between the Mandarin and the Cantonese. In the 
Swatow, nasal sounds are largely employed ; and 
in the singing of hymns this has an extraordinary 
effect, as the voices hush into a mere nose or lip 
production of sound. In Amoy these nasal sounds 
also prevail extensively, and in these two languages 
the b is known, though unknown in the greater 
part of the southern districts ; while in Shanghai, 
Ningpo, and slightly in the Hakka, v is used, iv 
taking its place elsewhere. The tendency of the 
Mandarin has been to drop the letters p, and 
A, when at the end of words, with the result of 
a more slurring effect in speaking, compared with 
the more distinct utterance of the southerners. 

The tones give a musical cadence to the 
language, and this is more pronounced in the 
south, where there are twice, if not thrice, the 
number of these, tones in use, as compared with 
the north. Each word is relegated to that tone 
in the scheme of tones to which it belongs, and 
in which it must be spoken. The meaning of 
a word may vary with the tone in which it is 
uttered. A musical note will generally explain 
much of what tones are, though there are other 
factors in their production. There are level- 
sustained tones, dying-away tones, rising tones, 
falling tones, abrupt tones, long tones, and short 

136 



Tones and Accents 


tones ; in addition there are also cresfenda and 
diminuendo effects . 

It would be very interesting to know why there 
are all these different sets of tones, perhaps some 
hundreds of them, differing more or less, used over 
China, and why more tones are used in some parts 
than in others. One language in China will be 
content with five or six tones while another will 
not stop short of fifteen or sixteen. It may be 
possible that all languages were tonic originally : 
some are inclined to think that this was the case. 
The language of all babies the world over is tonic ; 
for an infant when learning to speak always says 
the words he learns in the same tone he has learned 
them in, till he finds that grown-up people, except 
in the Far East, have discarded tones. Accent 
in English is not tone, though accent in English 
can often be used to represent Chinese tones. The 
Chinese employ accent as well. 

One tonic system, it will be gathered from the 
above, does not suffice for the whole of China, 
with its numerous different languages and speeches. 
So after one has learned the words in one language 
of Chinese, and how to pronounce them' aright, 
and the correct tone, the foreigner or native, if 
he takes up the study of another Chinese language, 
has to learn different tones for his new language, 
as well as learn new words, new idioms, and new 
accents. Again, a word may have besides ks 
primary tone a secondary or variant tone, only 
to be used in certain combinations, or to express 

137 



Diverse Tongues 


different meanings from what the word in its 
primary tone stands for. This, to the foreign 
student of the language, seems confusion worse 
confounded. 

These variant tones differ again in their use 
and application in the different languages, and 
also in the different dialects to some extent. In 
the Swatow, every word in each sentence or 
clause, except the last one or two, must change 
into its other, or variant tone. In Cantonese the 
definition of them given earlier applies . In 
Hankow and Mandarin there are said to be none, 
though in the latter the author has reason to believe 
that if special study were given, a discovery of 
them might be made, as well as their method of 
use. 

The Middle dialects, as they are called—those 
of Shanghai and Ningpo — have the medial vowels 
in words developed into diphthongs to a larger 
extent than elsewhere. 

All the languages in China agree in the 
elimination of superfluous words in a sentence, as 
regarded from the Chinese standpoint, to the utter 
confusion of the European learner or speaker. In 
a few instances in English we do condescend to 
a very simple style of speaking~a style which the 
Chinese use to a very large extent. For instance, 
we say simply, “ Come,” when we mean Come 
here,” or ‘‘ Come to me.” The Chinese says in 
this same way, to cite one example, keeooy or 
keeoo loh, when the loh means nothing translat- 

138 



Calculated Brevity 

able into English, but shows that a precis^ state- 
ment is being made. The keeoo is the important 
word, and that means simply “ called,” but the 
Chinaman to whom it is addressed understands 
what the speaker means, which is, '‘You are 
called,” or “ Some one is calling you.” The object 
is left out in a sentence when it is perfectly well 
understood what is referred to. For example, a 
father with us, seeing his child not eating his 
porridge at breakfast, might say to him', “ Are 
you not eating it? ” but a Chinese father in a 
similar case would only say, “You not eating?” 
The “it” is understood, and is not used, unless 
there is a particular necessity to call attention 
to this one thing in contradistinction to other 
things . 

This principle runs through *the whole language. 
The Chinese prefers to save his breath and words. 
In Chinese, again, there are practically no moods, 
tenses, numbers, or persons, if looked at from 
the standpoint of a European language. Of course 
there are means of showing these, when it is 
necessary — ^necessary, that is to say, from the 
Chinese point of view, which is very different from 
our conception of what is necessary in language. 
There is thus a terseness and a simplicity in the 
language, which tend to its beauty, and, when 
attention is paid to the context, the confusion which 
might otherwise arise is avoided. A logical 
sequence is often apparent in the dependence of 
the sentences, which is lost sight of in the com- 

139 



Diverse Tongues 

plexity of our Western sentences^ burdened as they 
are also with all the intricacies of moods, and the 
incidental prepositions and conjunctions, omitted 
in Chinese to a large extent. 

John Chinaman is again a survival of the 
Middle Ages in the manner of using his tongue. 
He clings to the past, and this style, as far as the 
language is concerned, is based on, nay is identical 
with, that of hundreds or even thousands of years 
ago. If it can be supposed that every book written 
in England were written in the language of 
Chaucer or Piers Plowman, some idea might 
be got of how the book-language differs from 
the common speech. If we remember the feeling 
of our forefathers, when it was proposed to put 
the Bible into English which would be under- 
stood by every one, and recall how at that time 
our own language was considered to be too low 
and vulgar to be used for books — ^then some 
idea of the attitude of Chinese scholars towards 
their own beautiful spoken language may be 
understood. 

So accustomed have they become to the well- 
balanced periods of the written language, so 
entranced are they with its beauties, so immersed 
have they become in the overflowing floods of their 
literature, that what is difficult for the men or 
women who are not the bookworms they are is 
simplicity to them. Moreover, they imbue those 
they instruct with their own views, so that not 
only do their own people follow in their steps, 

140 



Letters and Learners 


but the foreigner, shut up in his study with them 
to learn their language, affects their ways and 
imbibes their opinions, to the detriment of his 
spoken speech. For it rarely happens that a 
foreigner in China who goes in largely for this 
comparatively dead language — the book -language 
— becomes proficient in the spoken language of 
the people. The one stultifies the other, in the 
case of the foreigner, so that to master either 
requires almost a life-study. 

This accounts for much of the illiteracy in 
China ; for to master the dead language of the 
books is a task often beyond the power or time 
allowed the poor boy. Most of the books are 
locked up in this dead speech, and beyond the 
reach of the full comprehension of those who have 
not received a thoroughly good education— and 
such an education is not within the reach of an 
immense number of the people. It is impossible to 
say how m'any. 

The number of the educated and of the illiterate, 
or of the partly educated, differs widely in different 
parts of the land and in town and country. With 
the labouring classes, who may be earning only 
a bare subsistence, the boys either go without 
learning to read, or, if it be possible to send them 
to school, their schooling ends when they have 
received but a smattering. If a year or two at 
school does little for au English boy whose books 
are written in almost a colloquial style, it may 
be estimated how very much less they do for a 

141 



Diverse Tongues 

Chinese youth, whose books are to him' sO’ difficult. 
It is as if an English infant class were taught to 
read English' from the first four Books of Euclid. 

F ortunately there are indications of a widespread 
change taking place. The new school books are 
now modelled on the plan of the Western school 
books, and in time the language employed will 
doubtless be still more simplified. Further, the 
new movements in China are awakening the people 
to the use of the living tongue, and as a result 
one or two of the newspapers are employing it to 
a slight extent. 

The foreign element does not appear so largely 
in Chinese as in our own language. Buddhism! 
with its idolatry is perhaps responsible for the 
largest imported portion. The genius of the 
Chinese language, a little like the German in this 
respect, is to assimilate the new idea, and clothe 
it in some expressive term in their own language. 
Thus a steamer is a “ fire-ship.” 

Notwithstanding this, those who have delved 
amongst its different languages or dialects with 
this object in view, have discovered after all not 
a few foreign imported words . One language or 
another has contributed a word or two or more, as 
the case may be. As an illustration we may 
instance the word toto, in use in the Macao dialect, 
and derived from' the Portuguese, who have been 
domiciled in Macao for more than three centuries. 
Other words are more difficult to trace, and require 
some ingenuity at times to fix on their origin and 

142 



Borrowed Words 


source. The Arabic original is seen in apeen, 
for opium. In Amoy sat pan is used for soap, an 
imported article in China originally, though they 
are now beginning to manufacture it for them- 
selves. This last word is derived from the Spanish. 


143 



CHAPTER XII 


The Drug : Foreign Dirt 

M uch strong language has been used on both 
sides in regard to the opium question; 
but the Chinese themselves have but one opinion 
on it. 

As for the foreigner in China, many have ex- 
pressed the strongest opinions, when their ignor- 
ance on the subject was only commensurate with 
the strength of their statements. Some of these 
who are not qualified to form a judgment at all 
on the subject not only give voice to their views 
ex catkMrd, but stigmatise as fanatics all who 
hold an opposite view to their own. But the 
matter is now passing out of range of discussion 
by the non-Chinese ; for the whole nation is 
expressing in no measured terms its decision on 
the question. This attitude of the Chinese — not 
taken up by the Government alone, but by the 
people as well as by the ruling powers— is one of 
the most hopeful signs in the advance of China. 

The opium habit is of but recent origin. There 
is nothing to show that the juice of the poppy 

144 



A Modem Vice 


was valued in China for anything but its medicinal 
properties a couple of hundred years ago. In fact, 
the proof is all the other way. It cannot be 
supposed for a moment that, had the vice been 
one known in this land before its introduction from 
abroad, it would not have been mentioned by 
Chinese writers. There is besides a perfect silence 
on the matter by mediaeval travellers who visited 
the Far Orient, for the simple reason that there 
was a complete absence of material in that con- 
nection to write on. Had it been largely in use, 
doubtless the Roman Catholic missionaries would 
have had something to say about it. 

The reference to opium by the writer of the 
Chinese Herbal two centuries ago, says it was 
“ formerly but little known,” and his description of 
it “ leads to the inference that it was then used 
in medicine.” 

It was the Portuguese who mostly engaged in the 
trade at first, and its importation only reached a 
thousand chests in 1767. Six years later the East 
India Company “ made a small adventure ” in it, 
and seven years later “ a depot of two small vessels 
was established by the English.” A cargo of 1,600 
chests sold to one of the old Hong merchants 
eventually found its way to the Eastern Archi- 
pelago, as the traders could not command a 
sufficient price in China. In 1791 opium was 
imported “ under the head of medicine.” The 
Chinese authorities began to complain in 1793 ; 
and then started the long opposition against its 

145 



The Drugs Foreign Dirt 

introduction, stultified to a large extent by the 
readiness of those in authority to accept bribes 
and close their eyes to its smuggling, while our 
own countrymen, overpowered by the desire to 
make fortunes and retire to a life of ease in 
England or America, connived at it, and fostered 
the trade carried on by smuggling. 

It seems strange that greed should so close the 
eyes of respected and otherwise honourable men to 
the nefariousness of engaging in such an underhand 
trade. Unfortunately, the Chinese Government 
officials objected to all trade with the hated 
foreigner, and this may have helped to gloss over 
the iniquity of the particular trade. It is a sad 
spectacle “ of power, habit, skill, and money all 
combining to weaken and overpower the feeble, 
desultory resistance of a pagan and ignorant 
people against the progress of what they knew was 
destroying them. The finality of such a struggle 
could hardly be doubted, and when the tariff of 
1S58 allowed opium to enter by the payment of 
a duty, the already enfeebled moral resistance 
seemed to die out with the extinction of the 
smuggling trade in opium.” ^ 

With the ennobling power of a Christian civilisa- 
tion infused into her veins, it is to be hoped that 
China, now that she has roused herself, will not 
rest content till the good work she has commenced 
be carried to a glorious issue, and the youth of 
that Country be saved from the debilitating effects 
* ' Williams, ii. p. 380, 

146 



The Smoker’s Struggle 

of the destructive body-ruining, mind -enfeebling, 
and soul-blasting drug. Those who argue that 
such are not its effects are woefully ignorant of 
the inner life of the Chinese. 

They look at the surface of Chinese life only, 
and when they see a brisk and active compradore, 
who acknowledges that he is a smoker, and has 
smoked for years, they seem incapable of taking 
ail the influences and facts into their minds. They 
do not see him' when he craves for the drug that 
is life and death to him', and are unaware how 
entirely he is dependent on it; nor do they know 
that he has probably just primed himself up with 
the stimulant upon which he depends for his 
apparent vigour. His accounts are kept by his 
underlings, of whom, in all probability, he has 
a large staff, bound to him' by the ties of clan- 
ship, whom he can trust, and over whom, more 
Sinico, he has an iron grip: his work accordingly 
can run on, whilst he lies for hours at his smoking. 

The European employer does not see his 
servant in his hours of depression, nor does he 
know tllat he is trying with all the power left in 
him not to exceed the daily allowance he has fixed 
upon as the utmost limit he dare venture on. He 
does not realise what a struggle is going on in 
the fight not to be overcome in the losing game, 
and that his employee is stubbornly trying his best 
to hold his own with the overwhelming force 
against him. The victim tries to fortify himself 
against the inroads of the unsatisfied and un- 

147 



The Drug : Foreign Dirt 

satisfying drug, attempting to hold the craving 
in check, and trying to build up his frame by tonic 
and strengthening foods. Even if he be a man 
of iron will, the combat is slowly telling against 
him, and any traces of its effects observed on his 
face are put down to ill-health. 

The opium-sot (save when his wealth has been 
sufficiently large to enable him' to maintain the 
drain on his resources) gradually sinks in the social 
scale, unless friends or relatives support him. His 
vice has unfitted him for toil, as half, or more, of 
the night spent in smoking does not prepare for 
a day of work. He rises at noon, enfeebled and 
tmfit for any exertion till “ a hair of the dog that 
bit him ” causes his exhausted energies to flicker 
up for a brief period. Often without the means 
to procure sufficient food and clothing; he is a 
pitiable object to all, and is called an opium- 
devil by his own countrymen. Such a man is 
not likely to remain in the busy centres of com- 
merce, such as Hong Kong or Shanghai. He 
naturally gravitates to his hom'e in the Country, 
where he may obtain some assistance from 
friends. He slinks away from' observation, and at 
last sinks into a dishonoured grave. 

The so-called opium wars, it must in justice 
be said, would, with the arrogance of the man- 
darins and the determination of the English to 
trade, have taken place— opium or no opium — 
sooner or later. Opium was not the sole, though 
it was a great contributory, reason for them. 

148 



A Mistaken Policy 


The Chinatnan, while taking the drug, hated 
the Englishman for bringing it to his shores, 
and much of the ill-feeling against the foreigner 
was due to the trade. For the Chinaman reasoned 
no one could be good who sold such a poison, 
to the ruin of his countrymen. 

The trade drifted years ago into the hands of 
Parsees and Indians, and Englishmen in the Far 
East became the mere carriers to China and up 
and down the coast, though in India the Govern- 
ment fostered its growth, and derived a large 
share of the revenue by its cultivation. The 
financial difficulty has been the stumbling-block 
to its abolition; and it is this consideration which 
prevents the foreign resident in China from seeing 
the patent evils of the trade and consumption of 
opium. But when the Chinese themselves are 
willing to lose money by its cessation, and to 
subscribe to further its extinction, this single 
fact is a guarantee of their good faith in the 
matter. 

The average foreign resident in China has 
grown suspicious of the Chinese attitude on the 
question, owing to the Chinese line of action in 
the past. He doubted the Chinaman’s intention, 
when the Chinese Government fostered the ex- 
tended growth of native opium in the Empire itself 
(till nearly every province grew it), with the 
ostensible (as he considered it merely to be) object 
of killing the foreign consumption. This accom- 
plished, the Chinese Government said they could 

149 L 



The Drug : Foreign Dirt 


easily prohibit the native growth, and thus 
extinguish the whole trade and evil. 

There is now, however, no reason to doubt the 
Chinese bona fides. The whole nation is roused, 
or rousing itself against it; it is not official action 
only that is being taken. Though smoking officials 
may be here and there lax— and it is well-nigh 
impossible to have laws obeyed at once through- 
out the length and breadth of such an immense 
Oriental empire — yet degradation and even death 
have resulted to some of the smoking mandarins. 
Given time, there is little doubt that the whole 
Empire will respond to the lead of the better- 
minded of its people and the mandates of those 
in authority. China is being stirred to her depths 
in this crusade against this potent evil: she feels 
she must do, or die. Her position was in the 
van of the Eastern world (the whole world, as 
far as the East was concerned) for many centuries. 
She was the leader of the world’s progress : 
civilisation, letters, light, and knowledge, all these 
emanated from her. 

But as the West came into her purview of late 
years, she has found that she was deposed from 
her exalted position. Though blindly, arrogantly, 
stubbornly trying to hold to the past, she found 
herself unable to cope with the despised Western 
barbarian. Bits of her territory were stripped from' 
her by different foreign nations all down her coast- 
line, while an immense territory was taken in the 
north. This she resolved should not go on. 

ISO 



Repentance 


In her time of abasement, an insignificant island 
kingdom, whose inhabitants she looked down 
upon as little monkeys — a people who had learned 
much in the past from her, but after being her 
pupils had eagerly imbibed knowledge from the 
West— this people^ strengthened by the Christian 
civilisation of the West grafted on to the valour 
of a sea-bound nation, had blocked the waves of 
aggression from the West, and withstood boldly 
the advance of an absorbing power, beating a 
Western foe back. This little insignificant race 
set its face against opium, and forbade its use, 
determined to exterminate it, even in Formosa, by 
repressive measures. All this was an object-lesson 
to the Chinese. They had at the same time been 
prepared by a century of missionary labour 
amongst them, which, while it instructed them in 
the tenets of Christianity, spread broadcast over 
the land modern knowledge and science in 
the thousands of books issued by the various 
Religious Tract Societies together with the mission 
presses. 

It is a grand and noble spectacle to see a once 
effete Eastern nation shaking the dust of abasement 
from her feet and rising with new vigour, born 
of the day of enlightenment, to again take her 
place amongst the comity of nations of God’s 
glorious world. 

A Nemesis threatens the foreigner who has 
introduced the baleful drug in such large qium- 
titles into China, 'for it appears that not a few 

iSi 



The Drug : Foreign Dirt 


Americans have learned to take it from the Chinese 
smokers resident amongst them. A fear of its 
effects on their own people both at home and 
abroad in the Philippines resulted in the initiation 
of the international opium convention in Shanghai. 
Its actions and resolutions will no doubt strengthen 
the crusade against opium-smoking and its sister 
vice, the hypodermic injection of morphia. 

It would seem to the ordinary individual that the 
past attempts to discount by elaborate treatises on 
the chemical constituents of the smoke, &c., the 
evil effects of the smoking of opium, are of little 
practical value to those who try to argue that 
opium-smoking is harmless. For one sees that 
the opium-smoker can have his cravings satisfied 
with morphia injected into his system or taken 
in pills, by the dross of smoked opium, and even 
the ashes of the drug taken in water. 

“ Opium imparts no benefit to the smoker, 
impairs his bodily vigour, beclouds his mind, and 
unfits him for his station in society ; he is miserable 
without it, and at last dies by what he lives upon.’^ 
It is like “ raising the wick of a lamp, which, while 
it increases the blaze, hastens the exhaustion of 
the oil and the extinction of the light.” “ When 
the ’sfnoking commences, the naan becomes 
loquacious, and breaks out into boisterous, silly 
merriment, which gradually changes to a vacant 
paleness and shrinking of the features, as the 
quantity” smoked “increases and the narcotic acts. 
A deep sleep supervenes, from' half an hour to 

152 



The Smoker’s Limit 


three or four hours’ duration, during which the 
pulse becomes slower, softer, and smaller than 
before the debauch. No refreshment is felt from 
this sleep, when the person has become a victim 
to the habit, but a universal sinking of the powers 
of the body and mind is experienced, and com- 
plete recklessness of all consequences, if only the 
craving for more can be appeased. 

“ A novice is content with one or two whiffs, 
which produce vertigo, nausea, and headache, 
though practice enables him to gradually increase 
the quantity.” So-called “ ‘ temperate smokers,’ 
warned by the sad example of numerous victims 
around them, endeavour to keep within bounds, 
and walk as near the precipice as they can, without 
falling over into hopeless ruin. In order to do 
this, they limit themselves to a certain quantity 
daily, and take it at or soon after meals, so that 
the stomach may not be so much weakened.” Such 
an one “ can seldom exceed a mace weight, or 
about as much of prepared opium as will balance 
a franc piece ; this quantity will fill twelve pipes. 
Two mace weight taken daily is considered an 
immoderate dose, which few can bear for any 
length of time; and those who are afraid of the 
effects of the drug upon themselves endeavour not 
to exceed a mace. Some persons who have strong 
constitutions and stronger resolution, continue the 
use of the drug within these limits for many years, 
without disastrous effects upon their health and 
spirits, though most of even these moderate smokers 

153 



The Drug : Foreign Dirt 

are so much the slaves of the habit that they feel 
too wretched, nerveless, and imbecile to go on 
with their business without the stimulus.” ^ 

“ An insupportable languor throughout the 
whole frame ” is the continual legacy of the opium- 
smoker, and he is in utter misery when the usual 
times for taking the drug arrive if he cannot obtain 
it on the instant. He is restless, wretched, and the 
craving completely unnerves and overpowers him. 
The author’s experience, with witnesses in the 
witness-box, for more than a score of years, led 
him to detest the sight of a heavy opium-smoker, 
prepared, or rather unprepared, to give evidence 
in English courts of justice. Under such circum- 
stances, the greatest difificulty was experienced in 
the attempt to obtain statements that were clear, 
lucid, and truthful. The guile of the devil mixed 
with the slyness of an impaired mind, which, in 
abject fear of giving away his case, caused the 
drug-taker to prevaricate and contradict himself, 
thus rendering it difficult to obtain a succinct and 
clear account of any intricate and involved action. 
An opium-smoker is not a rampant ruffian, as the 
drunkard is when under the effects of his potations. 
He does not murder his wife; but he kills her by 
slow degrees, or pawns or sells her. He does not 
go reeling through the streets, a danger to himself 
and others ; but the effects of his vice are as bad, 
if not worse, in the long run. 

Statistics which try to prove that the number 
* Williams, ii. pp. 382, 383. 

154 



Statistics Unreliable 


of confirmed smokers is less than what is generally 
well known to be the case, based on a certain 
consumption by the individual smoker, are founded 
on assumptions, and ignore a number of factors. 
It is not a certain fixed quantity of the drug taken 
by an individual which should form the basis of 
calculation; for it is a well-known fact to any 
one acquainted with medicines that different con- 
stitutions are differently affected by drugs; some 
persons are easily influenced by doses that would 
have little effect on others. Let us take what is 
more patent to most persons. How ridiculous 
it would seem to fix on a certain amount of beer, 
and then divide the consumption of beer in the 
country by this quantity, and say that such a per- 
centage of English were habitual drunkards 1 One 
man is drunk with an amount that would not affect 
another man’s brains ; one man can habitually take 
a number of glasses a day which would com- 
pletely upset another. 

To be reckoned in the question as factors are 
the physique of the smokers, and the financial 
position of those who indulge this expensive vice. 
Another element that must be taken into considera- 
tion is that the drug has less power on one who 
is well nourished and who has ample means to 
buy food to sustain his body against the inroads 
of the drug. 

To be perfectly sure of the percentage in a 
given population, a census would be required, and 
as that at present is well-nigh impossible, estimates 

155 



The Drug : Foreign Dirt 

made by those who are well qualified to judge 
are the most reliable means of ascertaining the 
number, instead of procuring statistics to bolster 
up preconceived notions on the subject. No 
Chinaman, unless he is directly interested in mini- 
mising the results of opium-smoking, will give such 
a low estimate as has been furnished from foreign 
sources, to attempt to show that the drug is not so 
bad in its effects as the people themselves and 
those who have lived amongst them know to bs 
the case. 

But, after all, suppose that statistic's—which can 
prove anything required — are reliable, even when 
the advocates of the non-abolition of opium have 
reduced them to such low figures as they delight 
to do — even i per cent., to which scarce one has 
yet had the temerity to bring them down— even 
I per cent, of confirmed opium -smokers in China 
would make a total of 4,260,000, the population 
of a small state in Europe (nearly the population 
of Norway and Sweden), and roughly a' tenth of 
the population of Great Britain and Ireland. Is 
such a number not appalling enough to all who 
really know what a confirmed opium-smoker is ? 

But some statistics are so manipulated as to give 
us double this number, viz., 8,520,000. Even 
then this is not the very darkest shade of a picture 
so dark that no ray of hope illumines it. For this 
state of confirmed opium-smoking, to which the 
majority of those who indulge in opium in China 
are surely tending, represents but a small propor- 

156 



A Nucleus of Sots 


tion of the evil inherent in and surrounding this 
fascinating indulgence. Around this nucleus of 
opium sots are the beginners who are, as a rule, 
starting on a downward course from which to the 
majority there is no retreat. And still more 
direful, if possible, is the vast fringe of those who 
are dragged down into misery and ruin by the 
indulgence of father, or son, or husband, or rela- 
tive— the poor wives, the suffering children, the 
broken-hearted fathers and mothers, and all the 
rest who are affected in a greater or lesser 
degree. 

The Chinese themselves — and who are better 
able to judge than the people themselves as to 
the cancer in their body social and politic ?— would 
scarcely determine to overthrow the fell and deadly 
habit, were it of such insignificance as apologists 
attempt to make out. 


157 



CHAPTER XIII 


What John Chinaman Eats and 

Drinks 

T o begin with, John Chinaman’s diet is not 
rats and cats and mice and puppy -dog 
bones, though more of these may be consumed 
within the confines of the vast Empire than in 
other parts of the earth’s dominions. He might 
retort that the exclusive diet of the Englishman 
was jugged hare and blood. He does not live, 
like the Englishman, on bacon and eggs, or like 
the American, on pork and beans, or like the 
Frenchman, on pot aa feti or bouillon, or like the 
German, on raw beefsteak and sauerkaut, or like 
the Italian, 'on macaroni. Pork and salt fish and 
rice and vegetables— at all events in the south — 
are his chief dishes ; whilst sharks’ fins and the 
gelatinous birds’ nests are the turtle-soup and 
venison of the gourmand. 

Each nation has its own conception of what 
constitutes a meal. John Bull likes solid sub- 
stances, rashers of bacon with eggs, or big joints 
that he can see, and off which he can cut juicy 

158 






The Staple Food 


slices, and come again to, and yet again, to stay 
his hearty appetite. Jacques Bonhomtne likes 
dainty little morsels dished up in a tasty manner,, 
or the family pot au feu. Guiseppe Mencarini 
enjoys his long strings of macaroni, which he cuts 
off at his mouth as he gobbles them down., Hans 
Breitmann loads his tables with substantial dishes, 
and has some fruit with almost every joint of 
meat. 

John Chinaman, for his part, thinks it barbarous 
to bring big joints to the table and cut them up 
like a butcher — knives are for the kitchen, not 
the dining-room ; they are kitchen furniture, not 
table decorations— nor does he believe in slices of 
roast and boiled, even when served d la Russe. 

The substantial portion of the ordinary meal 
consists, in the south, of bowls of rice, usually 
steamed well, so that each grain is thoroughly 
cooked, and does not stick to the next grain. It 
is, when prepared in this method, placed in an 
earthenware shallow vessel standing in a pan of 
water, and a lid covers it while cooking. The 
rule is to put sufficient water into the vessel con- 
taining the rice barely to cover the open hand 
when laid on the rice. Rice is also often cooked 
in a shallow earthen pan, in like manner. With 
the poor man, a mere taste of fish, fresh or salt^ 
and a little fresh or salt vegetable, is all that 
appears on his humble board. There is soy, 
perhaps, and it may be bean-curd in some form 
or other, possibly some salted olives occasionally. 

IS9 



What John Chinaman Eats 


The vegetables and fish are fried in peanut oil, 
the taste of which the foreigner cannot, as a rule, 
stomach. No salt, or pepper, or mustard, or 
vinegar appears on the table. No water is drunk, 
but some tea is often poured into the bowl from 
which the rice has been eaten, to finish up with. 
There is but the one course amongst the lower 
classes of society. The wife is not supposed, by 
the strict rules of propriety, to eat with her 
husband ; but a family party surrounds the board 
amongst the lower classes, and the boat people 
squat down on their deck round the food. 

Amongst shopkeepers the whole of the employees 
sit down at the same table and eat together — 
master, accountant, shopman, apprentice, and cook, 
the last two often being combined in one person. 
The rice-bowls having been filled with a copper 
ladle from the basket or bucket holding the rice 
just brought in from the kitchen, the bowls 
are raised to the mouth in the left hand and rested 
on or near the under -lip, while with the right 
hand the rice is shovelled into the mouth with 
the two chopsticks held parallel to each other. 
These are two pieces of ivory, bone, wood, or 
bamboo, rather longer than a lead-pencil, and not 
quite so large in body. They are held between the 
thumb and two or three fingers of the right hand, 
with the second finger slightly protruding between 
them. 

This mode of grasping them allows free play ; 
for besides using them to push quantities of rice 



Use of the Chopsticks 


from the bowl into the mouth, they can be em- 
ployed as a pair of tongs to lift up, from the 
centre of the table, the meat and vegetables which 
are already cut into pieces and quantities suitable 
to be thus picked up. Each one at his will does 
this, either transferring the modicum selected at 
once to the mouth, or laying it on the rice in 
the bowl, to be more leisurely taken, or shovelled 
in with the rice. The chopsticks are most 
dexterously used, and, if the piece of meat is 
rather large, can hold it while a portion is bitten 
off it ; the remainder is then laid on the top of 
the rice for future use. It is wonderful how 
their owners can do just what they choose with 
these seemingly rude and ill-adapted implements- 
now breaking off a bit of fish from the common dish 
on the table, now dipping some morsel in the small 
dish of soy, and then making a predatory expedi- 
tion to the dish of vegetables, from which a suffi- 
cient quantity is transferred to the bowl to serve 
for several mouthfuls of rice. Spice and variety 
are lent to the meal by these constant raids. The 
utmost good-humour prevails as the results are 
appropriated, and quarrels do not result. This 
process is continued all through the meal by each 
me round the table. It is considered polite to 
keep more or less to your side of the dish in taking 
these continual helpings. 

It is hoped that these explicit explanations will 
clear away the misapprehension on this subject 
with many ; for the ordinary Englishman believes 

i6i 



What John Chinaman Eats 


that in some mysterious manner, inexplicable to 
ordinary mortals, the Chinaman uses his chop- 
sticks apparently somewhat in the manner of the 
ghoul in the Arabian Nights, who ate her meal, 
consisting of “a few grains of rice, with a 
toothpick.” 

In the south, pork is the meat, and so universal 
and constant is its use that the word for meat 
in the Amoy language, bach (pronounced like the 
name of the musician), means pork. 

It may be gathered from what has been said 
that made-up dishes are the rule. The Chinese 
are very fond of soups and slops. When wanting 
a snack of something, a very common thing to 
take is a dish of congee (rice gruel). At a formal 
dinner party, which is generally at a restaurant, 
the food, to our foreign tastes, seems all sloppy. 
Course after course of howls of birds’-nest soup, 
sharks’ fins, quails cut up in portions, crabs, and 
numerous other dishes, is brought in singly or 
in sets of four or eight. Rice in such a idase 
does not appear till the end of the feast. Porce- 
lain spoons, of most primitive shape, are supplied 
for the more liquid dishes, and wire toy forkfe to 
lift the candied fruits, &c. 

One feels, after these grand Chinese dinners, 
as if one had eaten to repletion, even if only 
a tasting is taken of each dish. Long before the 
dinner is through even this has to he given up ; 
but with it all there is yet an unsatisfied feeling 
of wanting what the Americans would call “ a 

162 



Table Courtesies 

good square meal/’ so unused are we to this style 
of feeding. 

While the guests are gathering together in the 
restaurant where such repasts are held, the 
attendants bring in cups of tea about the size of 
large coffee-cups with covers on, a sufficiency of 
tea-leaves being put into every cup to make a 
brew for each. Each person has thus a cup of 
tea infused specially for himself. The waiter 
writes each person’s name on the cover of the 
cup intended for him, and as each circulates about 
the room, chatting to host or other guest, the 
cup is brought round after each and placed at the 
side of or near to the individual to whom it belongs 
and replenished whenever necessary. 

The Chinese are very fond of splitting melon- 
seeds between the teeth (this is rather difficult 
of achievement to those unaccustomed to it), eject- 
ing the shells and eating the kernels, which are 
rather pleasant to the taste ; but the ordinary 
European does not find the toil worth the result, 
though the Russian, who has the same custom, 
is an adept at it. 

The author finds a formal Chinese dinner once 
in twenty years is sufficient. As a; reason for this, 
some of the customs which prevail at the table may 
be stated. It is considered politeness to offer 
another at the table a titbit with one’s own chop- 
sticks, picking it out from one of the dishes on 
the table. It will be understood that in the act 
of eating, the chopsticks, like our forks, touch 

163 



What John Chinaman Eats 

the lips, or enter the mouths ; so, even without 
this display of friendship, each one of the four or 
eight persons at a table has dipped his chopsticks 
into the plates of many of the comestibles laid 
before him. 

At one of the few formal Chinese dinners the 
author had the pleasure to attend, the host, a most 
estimable and distinguished old gentleman, asked 
him to take a second helping of soup. A large 
bowl containing it stood before the host. There 
was no soup -ladle provided, and the old gentle- 
man, to ensure that we should get the full benefit 
of all the contents of the soup, stirred it with his 
own spoon, which he had been using already. 
Though others accepted, the author declined any 
more. Eructations after the full meal are not 
restrained, and in hot weather, coats, waistcoats, 
and undergarments are discarded, till the diners 
have sometimes nothing left on them but a pair 
of trousers. 

After the dinner a row of basin-stands, 
basins, and towels may stand ready with hot water 
for each to wash in, no finger-bowls being used. 
In place of serviettes, a waiter will every now 
and then bring a wet wash -rag wrung out of hot 
water to wipe over the face and hands, which is 
very refreshing on a hot day. 

Some of the Chinese articles of diet are dainty 
and nice ; but an indiscriminate eating of Chinese 
food is upsetting to an English stomach, ill -pre- 
pared for this kind of fare and its manner of 

164 



Articles of Food 


cooking. The Chinese are not so particular about 
everything being perfectly fresh as we are, nor 
is needful care exercised to ensure purity of food- 
stuffs, as sanitary science is unknown. At the same 
time, John Chinaman is a born cook, and can easily 
prepare his meals to his own taste and those of 
his comrades. The youngest lad in a shop is 
appointed cook. The oookshops have a tasty array 
of tempting viands spread out on the street front, 
and the peripatetic vendors of dumplings and other 
toothsome delights present a pleasing choice to 
the hungry boy or man. 

No mutton is eaten in the south, as sheep do 
not thrive in that part of China. A little goat- 
flesh is consumed, and some beef ; venison is 
exposed for sale in a fewi shops ; but pork and 
fish are the staple articles of diet. Of the latter 
there is an almost endless variety. 

Vegetarians abound in China, from religious and 
humanitarian motives. The supply of vegetables 
is large, and melons, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, 
yams, and taro are much used, while fruit 
abounds. 

Rats are eaten, and so are cats and dogs, and 
even snakes ; but many a Chinese would not touch 
some or all of them. Some of the poverty-stricken 
country-folk scarcely know the taste of meat, and 
are forced to live mostly on a poor quality of 
rice and miserable red sweet potatoes. 

What is one man’s meat is another man’s poison, 
and the EnglishmJan’s stomach turns at the crawl- 

X65 M 



What John Chinaman Eats 

ing mass of rice-field worms that are hawked about 
th6 streets for sale. On the other hand, the author 
has seen a polite Chinese, when tasting cheese 
for the first time in his house, evidently suffer, 
much till an opportunity gave him the chance of 
leaving the room and spitting out the, to him, 
disgusting substance. 

Milk is not drunk uncooked, and only a small 
quantity is consumed ; this is made into a curded 
mass like junket, and hawked warm about the 
streets at night. 

The Chinaman is not a drunkard, though 
drunkenness is to be found in the land. When 
drunk he stays at home and sleeps off his potations. 
There are no public-houses tempting him, as in 
England, not only at every street corner, but 
between the corners as well. 

On feast days, anniversaries, new years, See., 
he is fond of celebrating the occasion with his 
native wine, which is really a spirit. It is heated, 
and drunk out of very tiny cups, holding about 
a dessert -spoonful each. Some drink it every day 
at dinner ; but these are they who are too fond 
of it. It is always present at formal dinners, an.d 
aJ few cups of it soon flush up the face of John 
Chinaman, who is easily affected by alcohol. 

A common amusement whilst drinking is to fling 
out the fingers of one hand to another at the 
table, who must instantly sing out the words which 
he conjectures represent the number of fingers 
flung out. If his guess be wrong, the one making 

i66 



Meals and Snacks 


the mistake must^ as a forfeit, drink a cup of wine. 
Seated round the dinner -table, these wine -parties 
are noisy affairs, and in the English colony of 
Hong Kong their restriction has to be enforced 
by an ordinance forbidding them after eleven 
o’clock at night. 

The Chinaman deludes himself into the idea that 
he takes only two meals a day : true, he has only 
two formal, set meals each day ; but he is always 
ready for a snack. When he rises at 5 or 6 a. m. 
he has a bowl of congee. His breakfast is at 
9 or 10 a.m., and much like his dinner, which is 
about 5 p.m. ; but at noon he takes ^ lunch — 
some soup or cakes, or something to stay his 
stomach. All day the cookshops and foods tails 
in the streets, and hawkers of cakes and fruit, 
sweetmeats, sugar-cane, and fruit and pickles, 
appear to be in demand. At night those whose 
business or pleasure takes them about patronise 
such vendors as prowl about at late hours, and 
even those who stay at home buy from them as 
they pass their doors. 

Many of the foodstuffs are hawked about the 
streets. Even the live fish is brought to the very 
doors of the purchasers, floundering in shallow tubs 
of water, and weighed out while kicking ; so there 
is no fear of stale fish, a thing difficult otherwise 
to prevent in a hot climate. 

The Chinaman believes in feedingl up while 
doing hard work, and some of the boatmen, when 
taking their long voyages up or down the mighty 

167 



What John Chinaman Eats 

rivers of South China and working from dewy 
morn till dusky eve, stipulate for five meals a day. 

John Chinaman is now beginning to indulge in 
foreign food. On the lines of foreign-owned 
steamers those who can afford it have a choice of 
either Chinese fare or English, and not a few 
try the latter. With the hundreds of Chinese 
students abroad in America and Europe, it is not 
to be doubted that the taste acquired in our lands 
for our dishes will be carried back to China. 

The cooking of John Chinaman’s food is done 
generally on red earthenware, round stoves, each, 
only large enough to hold one pot or pan or kettle, 
which latter often are also of coarse grey earthen- 
ware. These are thin, and the substances in them 
are quickly heated. One would think economy had 
been one of the chief considerations in the manu- 
facture of these, and of the iron utensils used in 
the preparation of food for the table. For there 
is no superabundance of metal employed in the 
construction of the latter^ and thus a double 
economy is effected : less material is used, and the 
price is kept down, and less resistance is offered 
to the heat of the fire, thus less wood or charcoal 
is burned, which is the fuel of the south. For the 
production of the latter the whole country, except 
in the remote interior, has been denuded. 

All the wood and charcoal is brought down in 
boats from up-country ; so that except in the 
neighbourhood of monasteries and at the backs 
of villages groves are uncommon, though every 

i68 



Fuel 


temple, if possible, has its banyan-tree, and the 
grounds of yamens are wooded. Iron saucepans 
or kettles are little known, but iron frying-pans 
are in constant use, to fry fish and vegetables 
and for many other purposes. 

In the country fruit-trees abound, being planted 
along the high banks which protect the rice-fields 
from the river or divide them from one another. 
Though wood is cheap, compared with the prices 
that prevail in England, yet every economy is 
practised with regard to it, none being wasted ; 
every chip is picked up (this being the children’s 
task in poor families), and not a stick will be 
found lying about. 

Grass is also used for fuel by the poorer classes ; 
especially does this seem to be the case with the 
Hakkas. Many of the girls and womenfolk are 
busy all day in cutting this on the hillsides and 
mountain-slopes. As evening sets in, strings of 
them may be met, wending their way down the 
steep mountain paths to their homes in the cities 
and plains or valleys. Two enonnous bundles 
are made up and fastened to a pole, one end of 
which is sometimes sharpened, and this is thrust 
into one of the trusses. The pole is carried across 
one shoulder in the usual way the Chinese carry 
burdens . 

This indiscriminate cutting of the grass is very 
destructive to young plants, trees, and saplings, 
very few of the latter being allowed to grow, for, 
cut down with the knife' of the grass-cutter, they 

169 



Wtiat John Chinaman Eats 

all add their quota to the eveningi load 
The grass is, indeed, used for fodder to some 
extent, but largely for fuel. Hence the sterile 
appearance of mountain ranges in the south of 
China. In winter the dry grass on these heights 
is fired, so that a richer crop may result from 
the ashes. This, of course, is destructive of plants 
and young trees struggling for existence against 
such adverse circumstances. 

On winter nights one sees for hours these 
straggling lines of fire encircling the hills, and 
creeping along like fiery serpents or dragons, 
forming a most picturesque sight in the darkness. 
But the aspect is a very different one when, on 
a visit to these spots in daylight, a blackened 
mass of cinders and charcoal has taken the place 
of what in summer would be luxuriant vegetation. 
In the dry winters, when for weeks and months 
no rain falls in Southern China, the long grass 
dries up, till it looks like growing hay. This 
burning grass gives off a peculiar odour. It 
flares up, and the fire has to be constantly fed. 
With thick iron utensils over the fires, such as 
are used in the West, cooking would be difficult ; 
but with the thin pots and pans we have already 
described it is not so. 

The atmosphere of Chinese cities and towns 
is not surcharged with smoke and soot, nor does 
a pall of darkness in consequence hang over these 
centres of population. As yet tall chimneys or 
factories are rare, though beginning to appear with 

170 



Daily Fumigation 

the advance of Westerti modes of manufa:cture. 
The smoke from kitchen fires and the incense 
burned twice a day causes a smarting smoke to 
torture the eyes in the streets for an hour or so 
morning and evening. This daily smoking, com- 
bined with the fragrance of morning and evening 
incense, has doubtless a salutary effect on the 
health of the city ; for with the reeking filth of 
the narrow, tortuous streets it is a wonder that 
constant epidemics do not decimate the large 
populations that live amidst it all, apparently un- 
affected by their insalubrious surroundings. 



CHAPTER XIV 


John Chinaman’s Doctors 

T he doctor does not see John Chinaman into 
existence and assist at the process, and so 
his chances of surviving birth are much less than 
those of young John Bull. At the same time he 
assists him out of life, and perhaps sometimes 
sooner than necessary were no physicians called 
in. We say physicians, for John Chinaman is 
not content with one doctor when he is ill. 

Not that he has more than one at a time, as 
may be the case in our land, when exalted posi- 
tion or an abundance of funds may make it usual 
for several physicians to be in attendance . But 
the Chinaman expects a quick return for the money 
he expends on his doctor, or he looks for a speedy 
action of the drugs prescribed ; for if the result 
expected is not immediate^ he calls another doctor, 
and yet another, till the end he wishes is attained, 
or until he is beyond doctors* aid. 

Some have thought that there are indications 
in old Chinese literature thait dissection may have 

172 



Early Teaching 

been knovm in olden times. This is perhaps more 
than doubtful ; but, at all events, such a thing- 
has not been thought of for centuries on centuries. 
In fact, the most empirical notions are extant as 
to the organs of the body and their functions ; 
but, not-withstanding this, they have anatomical 
diagrams. Most grotesque are their ideas of the 
human frame as thus depicted, and as described 
in their medical books, for Chinese m'edicah writers 
have added their quota to the extensive literature 
of that land. 

In Wylie’s Notes on Chinese Literature, accounts 
are given of some eighty works under the heading 
of Medical Writers. It is thought that several 
centuries before the Christian era some advance 
had been made towards a system. There are 
now considered to be nine branches of medical 
practice : these are blood-vessel and smallpox 
complaints, “ fevers, female complaints, cutaneous 
complaints, cases of acupuncture, eye complaints, 
throat, mouth, and teeth complaints, and bone com- 
plaints.” “ The diseases of the inferior animals 
have been included, as a subsidiary branch of the 
medical profession, from! the earliest times.” 

That medical knowledge of a kind has been 
in existence in China for ages, in a traditionall 
form originally, is proved from the oldest medical 
treatise which is extant in that country — one written 
at least several centuries B.C. While it must be 
remembered that a vol-ume of a Chinese work 
is only about the size of one of our smaller monthly 

173 



John Chinaman’s Doctors 

magazines, yet the works of some of the medical 
writers run to a great length, as one, a guide 
to therapeutics, is in i68 books, containing 1,960 
discourses on 2,175 subjects, with 778 rules, 
^^?739 prescriptions, and is illustrated with 239 
diagrams. Another (“considered one of the most 
complete of its kind”) numbers 120 books. Yet 
another is in 90 books ; but — ^^one would feel in- 
clined to say fortunately for the doctors — the 
majority of this class of writers are content with 
a few volumes each. 

The great Materia Medica is known throughout 
Europe amongst all who know anything at all 
concerning Chinese literature. It is in 52 books, 
and the author, Lay She -Chun, spent thirty years 
in its compilation, making extracts from upwards 
of 800 preceding authors, besides adding to 
the work from his own knowledge. It contains 
particulars of 1,892 different medicaments. If 
all this were not a sufficient proof of the laborious 
and painstaking care the author devoted to his 
task, further evidence of it may be, found in the 
fact that the author wrote out the manuscript three 
times before he was satisfied to let it see the 
light of day. 

There sometimes seems a substratum of truth 
in the Chinese ideas as elaborated in the native 
medical books. A main idea seems to be grasped, 
and then buried under a fantastic mass of 
absurdities. The bones are considered as a sort 
of framework that holds the body together ; but 

174 



The Pulse as Guide 


no care is employed to describe them correctly. 
It would have been thought that exhumation of 
the skeleton from the grave (common in China 
for the purposes of fung-shui) would have shown 
them that there are two bones in the forearm 
instead of one, and the same with the leg. Also, 
it would be thought that the osteology of the 
different parts of the body would be better known^ 
for here the same careless nonchalance is dis- 
played as to an accurate enumeration and descrip- 
tion of the component parts of the bony structure 
of the body. They have the most extraordinary 
notions as to the circulation of the blood ; and 
the pulse is the stronghold of the medical prac- 
titioner. By the examination of the pulse the 
Chinese doctor considers himself able to diagnose 
the disease and fix its locality with precision. 

With this infallible aid and guide to ascertain 
the seat of the disease and the disease itself, there 
is no need to hear the patient describe his sensa- 
tions, nor even for that matter to see the patient, 
in the case of a woman, who may lie hidden in her 
bed with mosquito-net drawn, and simply put her 
two hands out through the curtains for the doctor 
to feel her pulses. There are three kinds of pulse 
for each hand, and each pulse is distinguished 
into heavy and light. See., which serve to locate 
the disorder. The Chinese believe the beating 
of the pulse alone will show the cause and locality 
of the disease. 

An author who nearly two centuries ago wrote 

175 



John Chinaman’s Doctors 


about the Chinese thus quaintly describes the 
solemn and important mode of examining this dis- 
closer of medical secrets to the Chinese medical 
men : 

When they are called to a; sick person^ they 
lay his arm upon a pillow, then place their four 
fingers along the artery, sometimes gently, and 
sometimes hard. They take some time to examine 
the beating, and distinguish the differences, how 
imperceptible soever, and according to the motion, 
more or less quick, full or slender, uniform opr 
irregular, which they observe with the greatest 
attention, they discover the cause of the disease ; 
insomuch that, without asking the patient, they 
tell him in what part of the body the pain lies, 
whether the head, stomach or belly, or whether 
it be the liver or spleen which is affected. They 
likewise foretell when his head shall be easier, 
when he shall recover his stomach, and when the 
distemper will leave him.” ^ 

It is believed by the Chinese that there are a 
thousand differences in the pulse, dependent on 
sex, age, stature, and seasons. “Every season of 
the year has its proper pulse.” “ In the spring to 
have the pulse of the stomach, in the winter the 
pulse of the heart, in summer that of the lungs, in 
autumn that of the liver, are all very bad.” No 
wonder that a book on the pulse in Chinese says, 
“ The examination of the pulse is ” in some places 
“ very difficult,” and! in another passage in the same 
* Du Halde, China, iii. p. 363. 

176 



The Hot and Cold Causes 

text “book, “ We must take great care not to con- 
found the different kinds of the pulse, which have 
some resemblance between each other/' It is like- 
wise enjoined that the physician should be healthy 
himself, and in a, state of trancjuillity. A quick' 
pulse at the wrist means a pain in the head ; 
short and tremulous, heartburn ; and so on page 
after page for nearly a hundred pages full direc- 
tions are given as to the actions and chalnges 
of the nine pulses and the reasons for them'. 

Another great belief with the Chinese in regard 
to disease and medicaments is the division of com- 
plaints into those produced by a cold cause and 
vice versa, and the great Materia Medica, which 
we have already mentioned, says in this con- 
nection : “ Distempers proceeding from a cold 

cause require warm medicines [/.«?., not heated 
medicines, but those supposed to be of a warm 
disposition], and those which proceed from a hot 
cause, cold medicines.” It is most amusing to 
see how one's native servants are most particular 
about taking anything one offers to them, if ill, as, 
for instance, they will refuse a foreign drug which 
they fancy has a heating tendency if they have 
malaria. 

The two principles of the yum and yong, the 
basis of Chinese philosophy, which pervade all 
life and existence, everything being capable of 
being placed under the one or the other, also 
dominate the whole gamut of disease ; and ail- 
ments are ascribed as due to a disagreement of 

177 



John Chinaman’s Doctors 

these, to the presence of bad humours, or to the 
evil spirits, and until these agencies are corrected 
medicines cannot exercise their full efficacy.’’ As 
an example of their reasoning, let the following 
suffice, taken from the same Materia Medica: 
“ The upper half of the body belongs to the yomg 
and the nature of heaven ; thus the medicines 
suitable to that part of the body are the head 
or tops of the plants ; the body of the plant, 
that is, the trunk, is for the diseases of the middle 
cavity. The inward half of the body of man 
belongs to the yum^ and is of the nature of the 
earth, land consequently the roots of the plants 
are proper for diseases of the lower parts.” 

The physician’s power is limited, according to 
one Chinese author ; for he states that there are 
six sorts of complaints he cannot cure : “ The 

first sort is of the presumptuous or haughty, who 
will not listen to reason ; the second sort is of the 
covetous, who take greater care of their riches than 
of their own bodies ; the third sort is of the poor, 
who want the common necessaries of life ; the 
fourth sort is of those who have the yum and 
ydng irregular ; the fifth sort is of such who, on 
account of their extreme weakness and want of 
flesh, are not fit to take any sort of remedies ; 
the sixth is of those who give credit to quacks 
and impostors, and have no faith in regular 
physicians.” The utter disregard for a right de- 
scription of what lies under the surface of the 
skin is balanced by the most minute account of 

178 



Filial Sacrifice 


the surface of the body, which is all mapped out, 
and each square inch has its name and connection 
with the particular disease fixed on as affecting 
the patient. 

A sovereign remedy when a parent is ill is 
for a son or a daughter to cut a piece of flesh 
from his or her own body, generally from the arm 
or thigh, with which a broth is made for the 
ailing father or mother. Every now and then 
a case of the kind is mentioned in the papers. 
The Chinese laud such a deed to the skies, as an 
exemplary act of filial piety. We are afraid it 
is not always voluntary, if an instance described 
by a foreign medical practitioner in the Kwong 
Tung province is to be taken as an example 
of some of the other occurrences of it, which 
there seems no reason to doubt may be the 
case. 

In this attempted cure by means of it, the father 
had been under the carte of an English doctor ; 
but, with the fatuity of the Chinese, his family 
had proceeded to consult the idols, as the patient 
had not improved immediately on the first dose 
of the foreign medicine given. The god said re- 
covery was impossible without the human broth. 
The sick man’s daughter was persuaded, by the 
highly exalted ideas she had of filial piety, and 
also partly by threats, to give a piece of flesh 
from her forearm to make the broth. But her 
sacrifice was unavailing' ; the father died, and the 
martyr daughter succumbed, as her injured arm, 

179 



John Chinaman’s Doctors 


being wrapped up in coarse and dirty rags, became 
diseased. 

Whatever is nasty is good for medicine in the 
opinion of John Chinam,an, one would think ; 
but the remedies employed are no more nasty 
than what our forefathers took to cure them- 
selves. We cannot afford to laugh at John China- 
man, as in our own country there still lingers 
the remains of a belief in the efficacy of strange 
and hideous remedies. In one of the London daily 
papers recently an account was given of the venom 
from a rattlesnake being extracted, to be used 
as an antidote to madness, and one is tempted 
to say the cure seems an insane one. If people 
in civilised England use such remedies, what can 
we expect of the Chinese? 

The medical missionary practising amongst the 
Chinese comes across some remarkable medica- 
ments, and the exhibition of them under the most 
peculiar circumstances . 

Here are one or two^ instances : A little girl 
was forced to drink a concoction of scorpions 
and woodlice, as a cure for gastro -enteritis, besides 
being burnt in several places. In Roderick Mac- 
donald, M.D,, we are told how a poor woman 
suffering from cancer was made rapidly worse 
by the use of Chinese medicines. “ One side 
was completely eaten away by the awful disease, 
and all over the raw wounds were spread slices 
of putrid pork ! Their reason for this treatment 
was the hope that the worms in the pork would 

i8o 



A Sad Case 


attract the worms in the wound^ and in this way 
draw out the evil disease.” The patient was washed 
and bandaged comfortably ; but later on the 
bandages were torn off by her friends, and red 
and yellow papers with Chinese characters written 
on them were pinned to her clothes and mosquito- 
net, and red papers and incense burned under 
her bed, to draw out the demons. At last all the 
relatives and her husband and children left the 
room for her to die alone, frightened to be near 
her, from fear of these demons. 

The most disgiusting compounds are taken, 
sometimes in doses large enough for a horse. One 
of the Emperors of China died after being 
doctored with a pill of the contents of which 
common decency prevents the mention. 

The druggists’ shops are a pattern of neatness, 
and are nicely fitted up with drawers, shelves, 
coimters, and rows of pewter or blue china jars, 
and gallipots. The Chinaman knows how to dress 
a shop to make it look tempting. 

Many of the drugs are simple enough, and roots 
are neatly sliced, often across the grain, such as 
rhubarb and liquorice-root, and look like botanical 
specimens. The herbalists’ shops present a: more 
untidy appearance, with bunches of dried herbs 
hanging all over the place and overflowing into the 
street itself. 

One might divide the professors of the healing 
art in China into doctors, quacks, and old women, 
though the sceptical foreigner would describe 

i8i N 



John Chinaman’s Doctors 


nearly the whole of them under both the second 
and third appellations. The first are again divided 
by the Chinese into two classes : one is composed 
of those who attend to outward diseases or com- 
plaints ; and the other is formed of those who look 
after internal disorders, generally, as may be 
gathered from' what has been already said, in a 
blind way. There are no examinations, nor are 
diplomas given. Any one can set up as a doctor : 
no qualification is required ; but the son of a 
physician is supposed to be better equipped for 
the tasks of curing others, and more worthy of 
trust and confidence, than one who starts without 
any predecessor in the art of healing. This is not, 
as at first sight might be supposed, due to the 
idea of heredity transmitting the talent from' father 
to son. It is mainly due to the fact that the 
descendant of a doctor will inherit his books of 
prescriptions, and thus be set up at once with the 
necessary knowledge ready to his hand when he 
starts . 

Added ectat and prestige are the lot of the man 
who can put up over his door that he is a doctor 
of the thitd generation. He is then in the public 
eye duly qualified, and has no need of aught else 
to testify to his ability to kill or cure at sight. 
There is no doubt that a: shrewd and intelligent 
man may, and does, sometimes hit on rem'edies 
which are beneficial ; and Nature, if not stultified, 
may be the healer, while the doctor gets the credit 
of the cure. But empiricism, ignorance, and pre- 

182 



Modern Changes 


conceived notions largely militate against every- 
thing that would assist the novice in his gropings 
in the dark. 

Not only is preliminary practice wanting ; but 
the practice that might be obtained clinically at 
the patients’ own bedsides is almost denied him, 
or at all events reduced to a minimum, from' the 
impatience of the Chinese when under mfedical 
treatment, and the resultant custom' to call in 
another doctor if the first dose or so of medicine 
is not efficacious at once. In a serious case a 
dozen or a score of doctors may have tried one 
after the other their prentice hands on the sufferer, 
who has thus endured many things from many 
doctors, and, like the woman in Scripture, grown 
worse instead of better from their treatment. 

It is possible that, if diligent search were made 
amongst the great mass of material of the Chinese 
Pharmacopoeia by competent Western apothecaries 
and physicians, some remedies might be discovered 
of utility : it almost stands to reason that such 
would be the case. But fossil crabs and ground 
oystef-shells (the latter used for mumps) do not 
look very hopeful for, experiment, or, if exhibited, 
conducive to recovery. 

Happily, the medical missionaries at their 
hospitals have trained a number of students in the 
principles and practice of Western medicine . These, 
with the hundreds of thousands who pass through 
the missionary hospitals cured of their ailments, 
are making the Chinese in many parts of the 

183 



John Chinaman’s Doctors 


Empire familiar with foreign doctors and foreign 
medicine. The new Imperial Medical Department 
is also to be strengthened by the addition of doctors 
trained in European methods. Thus better days 
are dawning for the sick and infirm in China. 


184 



CHAPTER XV 


What John Chinaman Reads 

O F the making of books there is no end. 

Doubtless this is far more true,, not only in 
the Far West, but in the Far East, than it was 
in the day when the learned author penned the 
statement. 

Notwithstanding the iconoclastic zeal of the 
ancient and detested Emperor, who swept away 
the classic lore of China with a barbarity worthy 
of the Goths and of Alexandria, and notwithstand- 
ing the more destructive elemfent of fire, which 
has consumed many a mammoth library of in- 
estimable value, the literature of China seems an 
inexhaustible storehouse of volumes on almost 
every branch of knowledge or ignorance. 

Were the funds of information and the treasures 
of interest not locked up in the intricacies of a 
language which is a Chinese puzzle -lock to most 
Westerners, ardent students by the hundreds and 
thousands, instead of the few, would have explored 
the vast labyrinth which tantalises by its immensity 

185 



What John Chinaman Reads 


those who would like to wander through all its 
intricate paths. 

The classics are the sacred books of China' — 
the Chinese Pentateuch and Gospels, though there 
is no analogy between them and those of our 
Sacred Literature except in name, or rather number 
— ‘‘The Five Classics” and “The Four Books.” 
By the classics are meant these nine volumes which 
contain the sayings of Confucius and Mencius 
primarily, and secondly, works either edited or 
compiled by the former, or bearing the imprimatur 
of his ardent approval, or compiled by his 
followers. 

Were we to select what John Chinaman considers 
his best books, they would scarcely exceed one 
hundred, the standard apparently set by some in 
England ; but a hundred times the number, or a 
hundred times that, would not tell the tale of all 
his books. 

A large mass of works has accumulated round 
the classics in the way of commentaries, &c. 
Histories are large and voluminous, dealing with 
whole dynasties or certain periods. Some of the 
ancient ones are dry as dust, consisting of a mass 
of isolated facts, or what are thought to be facts, 
stated in the most bald and uninteresting style. 
A blazon of glory gathers round one semi-historical 
book, or novel rather, which narrates the story 
of events in the feudal times. But, as a rule, novels 
are considered by the Chinese to hold quite a 
secondary position. In fact, a secondary position 

i86 



New Wine, Old Bottles 

is far too high a one for them'. Novelists seldom 
put their names to their productions^, as was the 
case once in the West as well. 

Barring the classics and what pertains to them, 
poetry and belles-lettres^ the other productions of 
the press are considered by the educated Chinese 
as inferior in quality, though in quantity their 
numbers are great. 

It may be stated as an axiom' of Chinese life 
that nearly all that is old is considered to be 
excellent. The old wine is better ; or at least was 
until recently, when the vintages produced in 
the West having been sampled and tested, a 
change is coming over John Chinamlan’s taste. 
At present, the experiment of putting the old wine 
into new bottles, or rather the new wine of Western 
civilisation, learning, and education into the old 
bottles of Chinese thought, is being tried, with the 
result that the inevitable fermentation has set in, 
sometimes with disastrous results, and unrest and 
outbursts may take place, till new bottles are 
turned out in sufficient numbers in the way of 
preparation of large numbers of Eastern minds, by 
shaping them into more progressive modes, so as 
to be able to assimilate the new. 

The foundations of an education removed from' 
the narrow basis of Chinese knowledge are being 
laid in China: on a large scale. As a result, some 
of the youths of China would make their grand- 
fathers turn in their narrow geomantic graves and 
spoil all the fung-shui^ii they knew that their scions 

187 



What John Chinaman Reads 

were discarding the old classics, the glory of 
ancient and modern China, and actually saying that 
they had no use for them, and they were of no 
account. 

There is one thing that redounds to the honour 
of the Chinese, and which should be flung into the 
teeth of their detractors ; and that is that there is 
not a single impure passage in the whole classical 
literature of China ; this is also true if we 
extend the term “ classical ” to our conception of 
what that word implies, and do not limit it to 
the sacred books of China only. There is not 
such a high standard of purity in the novels. One 
at least is shockingly bad, and in some there is 
a tendency occasionally towards the mention of 
things that had better be left unsaid. The general 
tone is not impure. 

This is all the more extraordinary when one 
realises how unclean John Chinaman’s mouth is. 
The Eastern atmosphere has apparently something 
to do with this ; but when all is said, his foulness 
does not go very far beyond, if any farther, than 
that some of the lower classes in England indulge 
in. It seems to us in the West a peculiar trait of 
mind which permits the constant reference to 
subjects which are tabooed in polite society with 
us. This gives a familiarity of treatment which 
is apt, according to our present-day ideas (though 
three hundred years ago our ancestors took the 
same position with regard to them), to develop 
into excessive freedom of speech about matters 

i88 



Chinese Literature 


which had better be left alone. John Chinaman 
does not swear, or but seldom ; but he heaps 
odium on the mother and ancestors of his adver- 
sary, by suggesting the grossest crimes. 

So does he familiarise himself with this form 
of objurgation that he can scarce open his mouth 
without using these forms of speech, which, used 
simply as exclamations, convey no meaning, so 
debased are they by constant employ, much after 
the manner of some in England. 

To quote the Quarterly Review once, more : — 
“ The Chinese stand eminently distinguished from 
other Asiatics by their early possession and exten- 
sive use of the important art of printing.” “ Hence 
they are, as might be expected, a reading people ; 
a certain degree of education is common among 
even the lower classes.” “ Among the higher it is 
superfluous to insist on the great estimation in 
which letters must be held, under a system' where 
learning forms the very threshold of the gate that 
conducts to fame, honour, and civil employment. 

“ Amid the vast mass of printed books which is 
the natural offspring of such a state of things, we 
make no scruple to avow that the circle of their 
belles-lettres, comprised under the heads of Drama, 
Poetry, and Novels, has always possessed the 
highest place in our esteem.” ‘‘We must say that 
there appears no readier or more agreeable mbde 
of becoming intimately acquainted with a people 
from whom Europe can have little to learn on 
the score of either moral or physical science, than 

189 



What John Chinaman Reads 

by drawing largely on the inexhaustible stores of 
their ornamental literature.” 

As to fiction, there are 18,000 well-known 
novels. The following description from a work 
by myself will convey some idea of the Chinese 
novel : 

“ A Chinese novel is generally a finished sketch 
in black and white — very black and very white, 
no softening down nor shading : the characters 
stand out in bold relief. The villains are as 
black as black can be, and form the deepest 
background, to throw into relief the virtuous hero 
and heroine, and their friends, helpers, and well- 
wishers. The hero is a paragon of excellence, 
physically, mentally, and morally. He often 
possesses the prowess of a warrior, the intellect of 
a senior wrangler, while as regards the virtues 
he stands at high-water mnrk. 

“ The heroine — but what need to describe her? 
It is needless to say she is charming, as seen 
through Chinese spectacles ; her lover will 
generally find her — in this so different from' the 
real Chinese women — so well acquainted with 
letters as to lift her from' the mere position of a 
doll, and withal ‘ a clever, resourceful, and modest 
young lady.’ Apparently insuperable difficulties 
are piled up, of course, by the novelist, for him‘ to 
clear away by his consummate skill in the un- 
ravelling of the plots and intrigues against hero 
and heroine, and all comes well in the end, not 
with the ringing of marriage-bells, for such things 

190 



Chinese Poetry 

are unknown in China, but with the red wedding 
sedan-chair, the firing of crackers and beating of 
gongs, and feasting.” ^ 

‘‘ The whole subject of Chinese poetry is worthy 
of a more thorough treatment than it has yet 
received. One peculiar element is the tones which 
in the Chinese language give a musical note 
unknown in foreign tongues, to which attention has 
to be paid by the Chinese poet, apart from' the 
identity of some required for rhyme.” “ The 
Chinese language lends itself readily to the poetic 
art ; harsh consonantal sounds are wanting, and 
the combination of consonants and vowels is often 
musical. Though largely monosyllabic, the 
diphthongs give a somewhat dissyllabic character 
to many of the words. The cadence and mbdula- 
tion required are to be found in the tones of the 
Chinese language, and every word takes the place 
of a foot occupied by a metrical foot in our 
Western poetry.” 2 

“ In the hands of an accomplished writer, the 
Chinese language is capable of a condensed 
picturesqueness and vigour, such as can be 
rendered into no foreign language less ideographic 
in its mode of writing, unless by means of wordy 
paraphrases. Each character in its (often 
numerous) component parts carries a wealth of 
imagery to the sense, and whole series of mOtaphors 

* Things Chinese, by J. Dyer Ball. 4th Edition, p. 485. 

® Ibid., pp. 539-40. Also see Rhythms and Rhymes in Chinese 
Climes : A Lecture on Chinese Poetry and Poets. By J. Dyer Ball. 

191 



What John Chinaman Reads 

are embodied in a! sing'le epithet. A language of 
this kind lends itself especially to the description 
of the scenery, and the most superficial analysis 
of Chinese poetry reveals the fact that the pro- 
ductions which are most applauded in this branch 
of literature consist simply of elaborate word- 
painting, whose beauty resides rather in the 
medium of expression than in the author’s thought. 
Hence it happens that when odes, renowned for 
centuries amiong Chinese readers, are transposed 
into the naked languages of Europe, it is found 
that their charm! has vanished, as the petals of a 
flower are dropped from' the insignificant and 
sober-coloured fruit.” 

The youth in his studies learns his first lessons 
to a tripping rhyming measure. After going 
through two or three small books of this character, 
he devotes some time in his scholastic and 
collegiate course to a number of the classics in 
prose, but, if he continues his studies, sooner or 
later he finds his curriculum embraces the ancient 
Book of Odes, a collection of over three hundred 
ancient folk-songs, consisting of songs, ballads, 
heroic odes, sacrificial hymns, and love-songs, 
handed down from centuries before our Christian 
era. 

Poetry seems to have adapted itself to all con- 
ditions of Chinese life. Entering in at a city gate 
one may sometimes see a proclamation in rhyme, 
issued by some high official; a notice put up by 
your native servants in the servants’ quarters of 

192 




Chinese Poets 


your house will also be at times in jingling 
measures; the ritual or exordium read by Taoist 
priests to the bridegroom and bride of the boat 
population is in lines of verse. The verses used 
at wedding feasts as a play or game are in 
quatrains. The oracles are in verse. Balla'd’-books 
abound, and for the delight of those who cannot 
read as well as of those who can, ballad-singers 
go about, ready to be hired to sing in a recitative 
strain^ accompanying themselves with a tinkling 
instrument. Blind singing-girls with their duennas 
and guitars seek engagements at night. Thus 
poetry and song and music surround the Chinaman. 

It would be impossible here to enumerate the 
names and works of poets in a' land where poets 
abound, and every higher educated schoolboy ,is 
taught to compose in verse as well as in prose. 
Among some of the foremost poets of China were 
Lay Tai Pak (30 volumes), and So Toong Poh, 
whose works, poetic and prose, are contained in 
1 15 volumes. These two produced rough 
diamonds and polished gems. But these are only 
two out of many famous ones. 

One specimen, translated by the present author 
from the second of these two poets, is entitled — 

A WARRIOR BOLD. 

A Warrior bold 
In Ho Sai old; 

Alas ! but no one knows him now. 

Athwart the stream 
Where waters gleam 

He sees the boats through billows plough. 

193 



What John Chinaman Reads 

His piebald steed 
Has run to weed, 

Nor bears his master to the fray ; 

His lance so long, 

In arm so strong, 

A beam, nor man, nor elf could stay. 

And now the toll 
This noble soul 

Must count the livelong summer’s day, 

And fret himself 
With hoarded pelf, 

And wear his wasted life away. 

From Western lands 
Our beaten bands 

Return ; but he our land could save ; 

He’d mount his steed, 

And take the lead 
Before ten thousand troopers brave. 

And foemen die, 

As arrows fly, 

And sheathe themselves in quivering flesh, 

Then from my car 
I’d watch afar 

My hero’s valour rise afresh. 

Besides this, two love-songs must suffice for 
specimens of Chinese poetry: 

TO FIND A HEART THAT’S TRUE. 

And oh ! to find a heart that’s true ; 

For winning it there’s naught I’d rue. 

And e’en in death I’d seek it yet, 

Nor ceasing but till it I’d met. 

194 



Amorous Verse 


And then a glance would test its truth, 
And yet a glance would test its ruth ; 
With love as test we'd surely meet 
In happy troth, in counsel sweet. 

Alas 1 but fraud has had its way. 

And fraud on fiaud has won the day ; 

An empty heart is all that’s left. 

Beware, or ere your heart's bereft. 

E’en though he comes with heart of steel, 
111 test him twice to test the real ; 

111 test him thrice to know his heart. 

Or ere he comes with guileful art. 


OH ! CORD OF THOUGHTS OF LOVE. 

Oh ! Cord of Thoughts of Love, 

That binds us from abo\e, 

Canst thou but draw him here, 

Oh ! bring him to me near. 

If strength is in thy strands. 

Then loose not thou the bands 
Of heartstrings’ blended length, 

For hence their wondrous strength. 

Oh ! Cord of Thoughts of Love. 

That binds us from above, 

If one doth cast me by, 

Befooled with hateful lie, 

I spurn thee. Cord of Hate : 

I hate thee for that state. 

Thou draw’st us heart from heart, 

And mak’st true love to part. 

Oh ! Cord of Thoughts of Love, 

That binds us from above. 
Love-worthy now thy meed; 

Thou draw’st us back indeed. 

195 



What John Chinaman Reads 

From either side away 

We’re dragged, nor can we stay ; 

Thus bound in union sweet, 

I know not when we meet. 

Oh ! Cord of Thoughts of Love, 

That binds us from above. 

Alas ! my heart is thine, 

’Midst stormy skies and fine. 

Its love is in thy heart, 

Inshrined with guileless art. 

My heart’s best love to thee, my life 
Is given. Oh ! keep it true from strife. 

Oh ! Cord of Thoughts of Love, 

That binds us from above. 

Oh ! pity ’tis that you 
From time to time anew 
Do cut the cord that binds. 

And then my spirit finds 
In riot wild my heart 
And beating bosom start. 

Oh ! Cord of Thoughts of Love 
That binds us from above. 

I swear by stream and hill, 

An oath by mount and rill, 

That hearts must never change, 

If Love apart doth range, 

Nor cord will then us bind ; 

Our ways apart we find. 

It is impossible in the space of a few pages to 
give any idea of the immense mass of Chinese 
literature in all its many branches. Take for 
example the one heading of Buddhism. Under 
this are to be found nearly two thousand transla- 
tions by the early Buddhists in China — Hindoo 

196 



Western Influence 


and native — ^ma'de from the Sanscrit, without taking 
into account the original works which in time came 
under that category, and were written by Chinese 
adherents of that faith. It will thus be seen how 
vast and extensive a range Chinese literature 
embraces. Modern works of one kind and another 
pour out from the press in great and increasing 
numbers. 

A fresh impetus has been given of late with 
the desire of the Chinese to learn all the West 
has to teach them; for now Western science and 
knowledge is being laid under contribution to an 
almost unprecedented extent. Unfortunately, 
though, all that is translated and thus appropriated 
and assimilated is not of the highest class, even 
bad novels to pander to the low passions of the 
vile being included. Standard books as well are, 
however, being spread broadcast amongst the 
educated in large numbers. 

There is much hope for China when we 
remember, as one author says, that “ the Chinese 
are great prose-writers, and express facts con- 
nected with all their civilisation and quasi-art and 
science with much accuracy. Their libraries are 
stored with works on medicine, astrology, astro- 
nomy, geography, hydrography, and religion. 
Many of their works are mines of native lore, 
and display an ability and knowledge which might 
have been turned to better account, had the authors 
enjoyed free intercourse with the men of science 
of the West. The Chinese possess a power of 

197 o 



What John Chinaman Reads 

observation the most minute, supplemented by a 
patient and persevering spirit, which even in the 
absence of higher qualities will serve them in good 
stead when they take to the serious studies of 
Western art and science.” 

This passage was written some thirty-three years 
ago. The time thus foreshadowed has arrived, and 
the nation is now availing itself of those advan- 
tages which were denied it for so many centuries 
that it took years to perceive that what was offered 
was worthy of its acceptance. 

A new branch of literature has sprung up within 
the last few years in the modern newspapers, and 
these are now numbered by hundreds. 


198 



CHAPTER XVI 


John Chinaman Afloat 

A POPULATION large enough to fill a 
kingdom peoples the rivers, the waterways, 
and coast-line of China. Here are millions who 
never go to sea, but whose lives are more spent 
on the water than even sailors’ lives are. With us 
few are seafaring men from the moment of their 
birth to that of their death; but all the Chinese 
boat people start their first breath on some small 
sampan which has withdrawn from the others. One 
of the bamboo semi-cylindrical movable covers 
over the centre of the boat has been hauled down 
over the entrance to this mid-portion of the craft, 
while the business of admitting another puling, 
tiny specimen of John Chinaman on to the troubled 
waters of life is being attended to. His mother 
is too busy to give up much rime to him, and a 
few days finds the boat in its usual rank, and 
mother busy plying the oar again. 

A British sea-captain has authority to perform 
the marriage ceremony while at sea; but it is 

199 



John Chinaman Afloat 

rarely that such a raarriage is celebrated, much 
less that it is a sailor who is thus marriecL 
These Chinese boat people, however, are married 
on the water. The presents precedent to the 
wedding are carried in boats from the vessels 
one party to the union resides on to those of the 
other party. For the Carrying out of the ceremony 
large marriage-boats are to be hired with scarlet 
hangings, together with music of wind instruments, 
and gorgeous wedding garments of the propitious 
colour — scarlet — but without the large red flowery 
sedan-chair which every landswoman must ride 
in once as a bride, but never again. With all 
this rejoicing and “ double joy the little boat- 
girl is wedded to her mate as securely on the 
water as her countrywoman the landsman’s bride 
on terra firma. 

And last of all when, after all their long toil 
and lives of hardship, the occupants of sampans, 
passage-boats, and junks go to their long rest, it 
is from the craft on which they die-— the last cere- 
monies having been performed — that the dead 
are taken on shore, and in the huge coffins 
laid to rest in the same mother earth as the 
landsmen. 

Like the gondolas of Venice, the sampans are 
the cabs in Chinese cities and towns which have 
a sea or river frontage; the cargo-boats and 
lighters are the drays and waggons and carts, 
which are utterly unknown in the south, and not 
only take off goods to the vessels lying in the 

200 



W ater-t raders 


harbour, stream, or ofifing, but also transport goods 
and merchandise from one part of the shore to 
the other. 

Nearly all the peripatetic traders and hawkers 
on land have their counterpart in little boats, which 
supply every commodity required by the boat 
people and those who have a river frontage. 
Your gafden can be stocked with flowers, or pots 
placed on your verandah front the florist’s little 
boat, groceries bought, cloth purchased from other 
tiny little craft — miniature little stores, where well- 
nigh every available niche of room is occupied 
with goods for sale. 

Fish, alive and floundering, so near their free- 
dom in the broad river, but confined in the boat 
of the floating fishmonger, are brought to the side 
of your own boat, and in the same way the boat- 
man-greengrocer has a choice of the season’s 
vegetables fresh from the market-gardener’s 
weedless rows, brought, we were about saying, 
to your very door itself. The oil-man, too, not 
ready to pour his oil on the troubled waters, but 
anxious for you to buy it for lamp, or to fry 
your vegetables and fish that the passing green- 
grocer and fishmonger have just supplied you 
with. 

Do you want a bowl to eat your rice out of, or 
a flower-pot to put a cactus or some other treasure 
into at the stern of your boat, alongside the hen- 
coop, hanging out over the water ? The crockery- 
seller will soon be along paddling his tiny craft, 

201 



John Chinaman Afloat 

weighed down to the water’s edge with his frail 
ware. After him will come the floating isoup- 
kitchen, with its pots of savoury fish or other 
soup boiling over its furnaces in the bottom of 
the boat. And when most of these have ceased 
their plying up and down the river for trade, and 
the inky blackness of the water succeeds to the 
light of day, with only a dancing twinkling ray of 
light flashing now and then across the gloom on 
the deep stream, in unison with the surroundings 
comes the eerie cry in winter of the seller of hot 
sugar-cane, with its weird effects, as it dies away 
in a long-drawn tone of voice. 

All these and many others by day and night row, 
or scull, or paddle up and down the river, catering 
for the wants of multitudes, who thus can save 
the trouble of going on shore to make their 
purchases. 

Amidst the busy scene the shrimp-catcher is 
throwing his basket-traps from his boat in long 
lines, to bring up these toothsome dainties for 
the market. His wife rows, and he casts in his 
traps, occasionally taking his share at the oars. 
Ferry-boats slowly cross the river with their 
complement of a dozen passengers, seated in two 
rows facing each other, as in a London ’bus. Each 
passenger pays two cash for crossing a river a 
quarter of a mile wide— that is, a twentieth of a 
penny. The loads of the coolies :are put in the 
bows of the boat, where also occasionally is to 
be seen a leper, who is not allowed amongst the 

202 



Boat-life 

other passengers. The ferryman yeeoo-loes at the 
stern. 

A few years ago, shooting every now and then 
amongst these, was to be seen a small sampan, 
vigorously sculled by one man at the stern, and 
rowed by another at the bows. On one of the seats 
inside lay the bag of smuggled opium they were 
hastening to deliver. 

Hundreds, nay thousands, of all sorts of boats 
and vessels are passing up or down, or moored, or 
anchored, at the banks or further out in midstream. 
Here are lying long boats with the usual matting 
covers extending nearly the whole length of the 
narrow craft, which has turned-up bows and stern 
to cope with the rapids it has shot coming down, 
and has to breast going up one of the long water- 
ways of China. These up-country boats consort 
together (as do many of the different vessels of 
one sort or class), and a score or two, or even 
larger numbers of them, may be seen lying along- 
side one another in great strings near the banks. 
There are certain spots where each kind of boat 
lies, and those who know the river and its ways 
know just where their anchorages are. 

The different kinds of boats — and they are 
numerous — ^which may be classed under the generic 
term of houseboats also gather each after his kind 
in one spot, and one may sec streets of them. 
They are fastened to a long apd large rope cable 
which runs along under their bows. The front 
platforms, all in a line, look like the sidewalk in a 

203 



John Chinaman Afloat 

Street, and the boat people pass from one to the 
other, and sit out in the open smoking and chatting 
to one another when thus laid up in harbour. 
The sampans and little boats pass up and down 
the open waterway in front of them, like cabs 
in a street. Sometimes two rows face each other, 
and the illusion is complete. 

When one of these is hired for a day’s excur- 
sion or a long trip up-country, it comes out of 
its line, and all is bustle for the voyag'e. The 
master’s wife and children live on board. They 
occupy the stern, where the galley is. The 
travellers who have hired the boat take the whole 
centre part, 'where there are one or two small cabins 
and two or three large compartmients, which serve 
as sitting, or dining-rooms, and, if necessary, 
bedrooms at night. 

The boatmen navigate the boat from the front 
platform, where in one kind of boat a huge oar 
sticks out from the bows, to help in the steering, 
though there is an enormous rudder at the stern 
as well. Galleries run along both sides of the 
vessel on which the boatmen run when poling or 
“ quanting ” (as we believe it is termed on the 
Norfolk Broads) the boat. If necessary some half- 
dozen or dozen of the crew will go ashore and 
track her, on the rough excuse for a path on the 
bank. At other times, as an auxiliary force or 
even alone, a small boat, attached as a tug to the 
large vessel, tows her in front, the small boat being 
propelled by half a dozen men standing and 

204 



Boat Journeys 


rowing. Oars are also used at times ; but with a 
strong and good wind sail is hoisted, and so by 
one means or another the heavy, huge boat pro- 
gresses with fair wind or against foul, unless she 
perches herself high and dry on a sand-bank, when, 
if necessary, help is sought from any craft in the 
neighbourhood to assist in getting her off. 

Besides the luggage of the passenger and his 
family who have hired her, the wily captain and 
his crew have managed to load bags of smuggled 
salt (salt being a Government monopoly in China) 
into the hold, where they lie perdaes till the oppor- 
tunity for disposing of them has arrived. The 
Chinaman has always an eye for the main chance ; 
and though you have hired his boat, he manages, 
unknown to you, or sometimes before your very 
eyes, to take a cargo on board as well. At 
nightfall the boat anchors, glad to get near a 
town, or be in company with a number of others, 
for fear of the enterprising pirate. 

Then there were the enormous flower -boats of 
Canton, which are almost, if not quite, a thing 
of the past. One of their functions was to serve 
for the dinner parties of gentlemen where, as 
Chinese customs forbid men meeting their friends’ 
wives or respectable women at the dinner-table, 
they consorted with those whom their wives would 
not receive in their own homes. Standing high 
out of the water, they formed a butt for the wild 
cyclones known in the East as typhoons, and great 
was the wreck when one of greater strength than 

205 



John Chinaman ABoat 


usual swept over the waters . As these boats 
ministered to vice^ official prohibitions were ful- 
minated against them every now and then, and 
they were driven from pillar to post. Finally, 
made of most inflamniable materials with wood- 
carvings of considerable dimensions, a great fire 
has swept them pretty well out of existence, when 
hundreds of the poor inmates perished. Even 
before this the largest ones were disappearing, 
as robbers attacked them and carried off the 
inmates to sell. 

Then there are the different passage-boats, as 
they are called, which have occupied the position 
which local trains do in our countries in the West. 
They start at an early hour in the morning from 
certain spots on the river front. Most of them 
nowadays, since the awakening of China to steam 
power, are towed by steam launches. They carry 
hundreds of passengers, who are packed so closely 
together that it is a wonder how they can all 
get in. There are three tiers of decks, and it 
is a mystery how the Chinese sit for hours in 
these cramped-up positions. At long intervals one 
capsizes, and the loss of life is infinitely worse 
than in a railway accident in England, caged up 
and caged in as most of the passengers are. 

Besides these passenger-boats there are the 
large two -masted boats which take the place of 
the goods train, and sail away for two or three 
days’ journey, laden with goods. 

But time would fail to tell of the thousand and 
206 



Sea Voyages 


one different craft that are to be found on the 
rivers, canals, creeks, and waterways of China. 
Each town often rejoices in some type of vessel 
slightly different from those of other towns, while 
at the same time using many that are common 
to adjacent parts. 

Besides all these inner-water craft, there are 
the sea-going fishing -smacks and trawlers and 
numerous fishing-junks of one sort and another, 
which supply the enormous market for fish in 
China, dead and alive, salt and fresh, with such 
a variety that if one ate everything that comes out 
of the sea, as the Chinese do, there would be 
a new kind of fish for every day in the year. 
For they range from the baby oyster to the shark 
or dog-fish, from the toothsome, semi-translucent 
white-rice fish to the green -boned garupa. 

The large sea -going junks have been run off 
the coast by the modern steamer ; but fifty years 
ago they voyaged to Siam and the Straits Settle- 
ments, Java, Sumatra, the Moluccas, the Celebes, 
the Eastern Archipelago, and all that part of Asia. 
Some centuries ago they vied with us in the West 
in the long ocean voyages they took to Ceylon, 
India, the Persian Gulf, and the Red Sea. 

In the olden days these large sea-going Chinese 
junks came down from Tientsin and the north of 
China with the north-east monsoon to Canton^ 
where, if they did not go further down the coast 
and on to foreign parts, they lay for months till 
the south-west monsoon was ready to fill their 

207 



John Chinaman Afloat 


enormous sails and take them home again. They 
were three- or four-masted^ with great jaws in 
front, gaping mouth at hows, two eyes, to be able 
to see their way, and high stern-sheets. Such 
adventurous voyages are now things of the past. 

These junks looked cumbrous and unwieldy, and 
it is a wonder they weathered the dreadful storms 
and awful typhoons they encountered with their 
large matting sails. At such times the tendency 
was for every sailor tO' become captain, and the 
roar of the storm was supplemented by the pande- 
monium on board, where every man was shouting 
orders, and all was confusion and clamour. 

Not all these adventures on distant voyages were 
for material advantage. Some who travelled to 
these far regions were Buddhist monks, who 
journeyed to the sacred places of their faith and 
braved seas and storms to bring the treasures 
of their sacred writings and relics of Buddha to 
the land they were conquering for their religion. 
The even greater dangers of the overland route 
to India were encountered ; Alpine heights scaled, 
precipices crossed, and deserts traversed, where, 
in addition to the physical risks met, the travellers’ 
minds were tortured by the calls of demons who 
bewitched them to their destruction. 

John Chinaman makes a good sailor : he does 
not get drunk ; he is content with a smaller wage 
than the Englishman ; to him a hard board is 
a softer mattress than a hair one, or even one of 
down ,* he, as a rule, is quiet and well-behaved 

208 



Chinese Sailors 


when he is not treated with impudence^, super- 
ciliousness, and injustice ; he obeys orders and 
does what he is told. Not only are Chinese largely 
employed on the coasting steamers and on the 
ocean liners as carpenter's and washermen, but 
on the private lines as sailors. 

Quite a number are to be found in the East 
End of London, awaiting ships to take them home 
again. A number of Chinese shops are estab- 
lished for their headquarters in or about Rat- 
cliffe Highway, and smaller numbers ar'e to be 
found in Liverpool, where a good many Chinese 
find employment as washermen. 

Some of the vessels afloat belong to the Govern- 
ment ; and history records not a few expeditions 
beyond the seas, to gain Formosa and fight Japan. 
One that essayed to discover the famed Isles of 
the Blest never returned from the quest. 

The China Merchants Company is one of 
the latest developments, following the exploit- 
ing of the Chinese coasts and rivers by foreign- 
owned steamers. Its boats run up and down the 
sea-coasts and up some of China’s giant rivers, 
though this company has not, like the Japanese, 
or, for that matter, their own ancestors of ancient 
and mediaeval days, penetrated to the Far W;est 
yet. The boats are captained and officered by 
Englishmen. Some Chinese merchants own 
steamers ; especially is this the case in the 
Straits Settlements. Several hundreds at least of 
Chinese-owned steam-launches ply on the inland 

209 



John Chinaman Afloat 

waters of the Empire. These are entirely manned 
and run by the Chinese. 

Large rafts slowly float down the rivers, 
managed by a few men, who, spending days and 
weeks on the frail structure of logs and beams, 
bring them down from far up-country where the 
forest-destroying propensities of John Chinaman 
have not yet exterminated nearly all the masses of 
trees, as is the case nearer the coast. Huts built 
on the moving mass shelter the primitive naviga;- 
tors, as, borne by current and stream, they navigate 
the hundreds of miles to the towns and cities where 
the rafts are broken up. 

At every landing-place and every street-end 
that abuts on the river in a g'reat city, and 
wherever there is a chance of picking up ai 
passenger on the river front, there is to be found 
— shall we call it? — a stand for little boats. The 
boat -women who “ man ” them are busy chopping 
up rounds of bamboo into sticks for incense-sticks, 
or, engaged in something else to add to the family 
income when no fares are forthcoming. When- 
ever a probable passenger appears in sight, 
approaching the water’s edge, a perfect uproar 
arises as the women rush to the bows of their 
little boats, beckoning to the prospective passenger. 

As soon as they learn where the fare wishes 
to go, they name their price. .<4 la Chinois, they 
ask more than they expect to get, and then follows 
a noisy bargaining. The intending hirer offers 
less than he is willing to give. One boat -woman 

210 



Hiring a Boat 


will drop her price a trifle, when all tlie others 
follow suit ; and so it goes on, one side lowering 
its terms and the other raising theirs, till finally 
the traveller accepts some figure named, steps on 
to one of the boats, and then, as if by magic, 
the hubbub instantly ceases, and quiet succeeds 
the babel and uproar. 


2II 



CHAPTER XVII 


How John Chinaman Travels 

T he modes of travelling in the south of China 
are by boat and chair ; midway up the 
coast wheelbarrows come into use ; and further 
up in the north, ponies, donkeys^, or mules, litters, 
and carts. Jinrickshas ply for hire in a few 
places where roads are roads, and not narrow 
tracks — such, for example, as in Hong Kong, 
Shanghai, Hankow, and Macao. They are found, 
too, in some purely Chinese cities, which those 
places are not— notably in Nanking, where ai broad 
carriage -road has been made. 

The beginning of a network of railways is being 
cast over the land, in the way of a few main lines 
and some local ones. Though John Chinaman 
does not evacuate the cities and towns in summer 
and take by storm the seaside, fly to the moun- 
tains, or dash off on excursions by the hundreds 
and thousands, he yet does a good deal of 
travelling, or at least some Chinese do. Travellers 
on business are numerous. If a dollar or two 


212 



Travel Times 


can be made, they set forth eagerly in the pursuit 
of wealth ; the market -toxTOS are invaded on 
market-days by hosts of those who have things 
to sell, or who wish to buy. 

But the great time to see a regular exodus 
from cities and towns is the season for visiting 
the tombs, in April especially. Then the boats 
are crowded with passengers ; every route home 
is thronged with travellers ; the hill-sides are black 
with descendants and relatives of the dead, busily 
employed in worshipping at the graves on these 
heights. 

If John Chinaman falls ill, and a few doses of 
medicine do not restore him again, he slips off 
home to the country, where he can die amongst 
his friends, or be revivified by his native air. 
Thousands and tens of thousands have to travel 
to examination centres, and on reaching the higher 
stages of their education, even go to Peking from 
distant parts of the Empire. Officials have to 
travel from one end of the Empire to the other 
to take up their appointments. Insurrection and 
rebellion send troops from one province to another. 
Theatrical troupes tour the country with vessels 
laden with their scanty scenery, properties, and 
multitudinous and gorgeous robes, costumes, and 
apparel. 

Unless he is a high official, with trunks by 
the score for wives, and children, and servants, 
and attendants, John Chinaman's travelling 
arrangements are simple. Like the man in 

2x3 P 



How John Chinaman Travels 

Scripture, he takes up his bed and walks. The 
bed consists of a mat, a leathery papier-miche, 
hard pillow, or even an earthenware one, a red 
blanket, and a cotton-stufifed quilt ; but in summer 
even less. He may also take a teapot, some cakes, 
perhaps a brass basin, a small towel, a quantity 
of clothes, a pipe and a fan. The bedding is 
in a roll, and the rest in a large basket or small 
trunk. 

Arrived on the boat or steamer, he selects an 
eligible spot, spreads out his mat, takes ofif his 
shoes, and squats or reclines, while the hours slip 
by unheeded, gets hot water to wipe over his face 
and brush his teeth in the morning, takes his 
meals on board, and generally enjoys himself in 
a placid manner, smoking, chatting to his fellow- 
passengers, or listening to the quack who harangues 
cleverly and eloquently by the hour, or he reads, 
or listlessly does nothing— an art the Oriental can 
carry to perfection. The sedan-chair is a more 
expensive mode of travel, and not every one can 
afford it. 

It is a sight near a city or market-town to 
see men, women, and children hastening to the 
former, or carrying marketable articles to the 
latter, as they walk with their half -trot along the 
high banks of the river ; for John Chinaman can 
go at a good amble when loaded with wares, or 
carrying his own luggage on a journey. But the 
gentleman, and occasionally the lower classes of 
society, indulge in the chair. 

214 



The Chair 


The mandarin is carried in stately style, and 
the higher his rank the grander the pomp and 
circumstances surrounding his retinue. The very 
highest in official position may sport eight bearers ; 
but the majority may not aspire to more than 
four, while the mere gentleman has perforce to 
be content with two or three. The insignia carried 
in the procession, the number of the retinue, the 
colour of his chair, as well as his uniform, 
&c., all proclaim the greatness of the “ great 
man.’’ 

If an official promenade does not require a 
measured tread and slow, the movement is a 
gliding one, as in Canton, where chair-carrying is 
an art. With an ordinary individual in the city the 
carriers keep up a constant succession of cries, 
to clear their way in the crowded streets, or warn 
their fellow in the shafts behind of steps and 
obstructions, while responses are echoed back. 
These sing-song cries are added to by admoni- 
tions to careless w^farers and to other chair- 
bearers . 

“ Mind your back ! ” “ To the left ! ” “ Both 

of us to the left ! ” “ Both to right ! ” “ Two 

steps down ! ” These and similar cries and warn- 
ings punctuate the whole transit through the 
narrow lanes that serve for streets when they are 
thronged with the surging crowd. The most care- 
ful edging or backing into shops is required when 
one chair meets another under such circumstances. 
The passing of vessels in the Suez Canal is nothing 

215 



How John Chinaman Travels 


to it^ and traffic is suspended while one chair 
scrapes past the other. 

In country districts, or for country excursions, 
the sedan-chair presents a striking contrast to its 
superior city cousin ; it is then town versus country 
with a vengeance. The former is fairly comfort- 
able, with a cushion to sit on, and possibly one 
for the back, albeit the cushions are almost as 
hard as the soft side of a board. There are 
wooden shelves at the sides for the arms^ and 
a loose slip of polished wood is ready also to be 
placed in front of one, to reach from side to side 
—from one arm-rest to the other, to rest one’s 
elbows on. Thus the passenger is enabled to lean 
forward and better view the constant panoramic 
scene before him. 

A constant kaleidoscopic transmutation takes 
place as the animated scene dissolves itself and 
the living cinematographic display unfolds. Long 
vistas of gorgeous signboards in gold, vermilion, 
and green open out in continual succession, a feast 
of colour. The bright rays of a fiery tropical sun 
are tempered by loose boards or trellis -work, or 
awnings covering the shaded streets. Glints of 
sunlight percolate, settling in radiant gleams on 
any non-absorbent object, and relieving from 
gloom anything they touch, though the general 
effect in many a street is that of a shaded half- 
toned light. 

It is a bustling scene that meets the eye as 
one is whisked through some main thoroughfare. 

216 




Through Crowded Streets 


A constant stream is flowing along its nai'row con- 
fines. Gentlemen in silk robes of tender hues of 
cerulean blue and satin jackets gleaming in purple 
and other colours, are jostled by coolies carrying 
agricultural produce and manures for the fields, 
and elbowed by fishmongers with live fish in tubs 
of water. Now a string of blind beggars meanders 
through the thick traffic, making for shop after 
shop, to extort by their monotonous whine a stray 
cash or two ; while a sturdier rowdyish scamp, 
with self-inflicted blood-stained wounds, demand's 
alms with impudence and assurance. Anon a 
wreck of humanity with festering hands and fast- 
rotting, toeless feet rubs shoulders with the 
elegantly dressed merchant, who loathes the sight 
of the distorted and swollen face of the dreaded 
leper. The burden -carriers of all kinds and classes 
push by, heralding their advent by their twofold 
cries, some to clear the path before them, and 
others to ease the weight of their heavy loads. 
Those in pairs carry on a constant duet, as the 
hinder man responds with grunts to the calls of 
the one in front. 

It seems a strange medley ; for footpath and 
roadway are all thrown into one. The whole road- 
way is a side -walk or roadway or path free to all, 
pedestrians and riders, the empty-handed and the 
heavily burdened, in the two streams that are 
setting in opposite ways. There are no wheeled 
vehicles in the south, except rarely a stonemason’s 
primitive wheelbarrow, creaking with every revolu- 

217 



How John Chinaman Travels 

tion of the wheel, in protest at the slabs of granite 
on it. And, wonder of wonders, of late years there 
has come the bicycle, ridden by some young 
Chinaman, with queue tucked into his leggings, 
and piloting his course through the surging crowd 
with infinite care and constant ringing of bell. 
Fancy a bicycle running on a London sidewalk, 
and the reader will have some idea of what this 
means. Narrow as the way is, congested with 
the streaming multitudes, yet its boundaries are 
encroached on at both sides by the overflowing 
shops, especially the grocers’ and rice -dealers’, 
whose baskets of grain cross the thresholds and 
infringe on the streets. 

Nor is this all, for the city traveller’s chair 
almost brushes over the petty trader’s little store 
of goods, which are set out in tempting array on 
the long stone slabs which pave the side of the 
streets where vacant from the overflowing shops. 
Here the seller of small brochures, ballad-books, 
does a good trade with his red and brown paper 
pamphlets spread on the stones^ or hung in rows on 
the blue brick house wall behind. 

But the neatest and most attractive stall is that 
of the petty curio -dealer, with his little array of 
odds and ends, bric-k-brac, old curiosities, objects 
of vertu, a string of centuries-old cash, a few 
coins two thousand years old, to empty the purse 
of the numismatist, vases which make the con- 
noisseur’s mouth water, an ancient metal mirror. 
When the space will allow, this curio -dealer will 

2X8 



street Scenes 


blossom out into a regular stall -holder, with his 
tables laden with good things, and others of no 
particular value at all. 

In some streets, where family houses present a 
plain stone and brick front and only one doorway, 
and where the shops are not greedy of the spaces 
in frojnt, there is a perfect open-air market of wares 
spread out for sale at the sides of the streets — 
anything and everything almost to tempt the 
passer-by. 

Such are a few of the glimpses of Chinese life 
that the traveller in the sedan-chair sees as he 
passes through the busy streets, crowded with the 
pedestrians on business or pleasure bent, while 
on either side the depths of the shaded and cool- 
looking shops, with their varied wares of all 
descriptions, are more or less visible to the rapid 
coup (Voeil as one hurries by. 

One can enjoy all this in the comparative com- 
fort and luxury of a city chair ; but the country 
chairs are distinctly uncomfortable. Made of hard 
bamboo, with ne’er a cushion, hard though it might 
be, to ease the aching bones, one rides for hours 
perched up on the level of the almost naked coolies’ 
shoulders, now leaning forward to relieve oneself 
of the fatigue of half -lying back while shaken 
along what by the greatest stretch of courtesy 
are styled footpaths, the like of which one never 
sees in England, except it be sheep -tracks on 
mountain heights. 

In places the so-called road is better, though 
219 



How John Chinaman Travels 

narrow^ and it may be at times paved with slabs 
of granite^ which originally were placed level — 
at least one must give that amount of credit to the 
makers of the road ; but now in many cases 
sloping at different angles and presenting edges 
often^ instead of smooth surfaces and joints. To a 
certain extent this is even the case inside the cities. 
In our own lands, if tired from a walk, it is 
generally the length of the way that has fatigued 
us. But the wayfarer on a Chinese street or road 
finds the unevenness is what tires him, for on a 
return from a walk one feels feet and legs wearied 
by the constant surprises of level, and the vain 
attempts to adapt oneself to such an unusual state 
of the constantly unexpected. This irregularity 
of the paving proves much more wearing than 
the length of the walk ; for at nearly every foot- 
fall the steps have to be adapted to the inequalities 
of the surface, as well as to the slipperiness in 
certain streets leading to the water-side, or from 
or to a well, owing to the spillings from the overfull 
buckets of the water-carriers. 

In the country there is little or no attempt to 
carry the road along in a straight course. It winds 
and meanders and winds back in a most wearisome 
manner ; nor is there any grading attempted ; it 
rises and falls abruptly and without any warning, 
according to the nature of the ground-surface. 
Now it rises on a hank, and now it sinks again to 
a lower level. It widens at times, and then narrows 
again. In the north, for the vehicular traffic, the 

220 



The Wheelbarrow 


roads have to be broader than in the south, where 
there are generally no wheeled vehicles except the 
rough quarryman’s wheelbarrow. 

In the central coastal regions the wheelbarrow 
is a common mode of conveyance, not only for 
the passenger, but for bales of goods, which are 
piled up on this awkward, clumsy -looking con- 
veyance in a most wondrous manner. The old 
'rhyme says : — 

“The roads were so muddy 
And the lanes were so narrow 
I took my wife home on a wheelbarrow.'^ 

But in Shanghai and neighbourhood, as well as in 
and around other cities, this curious mode of 
transport is largely used by both men and women. 

Like almost everything Chinese, however, the 
wheelbarrow is entirely different from the English 
one, and the name (no other is available) does not 
convey an idea of the structure mounted on the 
wheel- The men and women are not bundled into 
the box-like carrying portion of an English wheel- 
barrow, like so many goods, with their leg's dang- 
ling over the edges ; for the very good reason that 
that portion of the wheelbarrow is entirely wanting 
in the Chinese distant cousin to the English wheel- 
barrow. 

To begin with, the two are alike in having two 
shafts or handles and one wheel ; but there the 
resemblance ends, and as regards the wheel itself 
the similarity is more in name than in reality ; 

221 * 



How John Chinaman Travels 

for the wheel is in the centre of the machine. On 
both sides of the wheel is built up a structure 
which affords not only a seat on each side for 
from two to four persons to sit on, but also a back 
to rest against. The whole of this portion of the 
wheelbarrow is made of rails or open woodwork, 
and besides the projecting seats, it forms a frame- 
work over the centre wheel. A cord hangs down 
on each side below the seat, for the passengers to 
rest their feet on or hitch their heels into, if they 
have any, for the Chinese ordinary shoe has but 
a rudimentary heel, if any at all. 

The wheelbarrow-man has, one would think, a 
hard time of it, especially when half a dozen mill- 
girls go out for a tide. He holds the handles, and 
a strap across the shoulders eases some of the 
weight. His vehicle needs careful guiding and 
steering and balancing, as it is rather a ticklish 
craft, especially when it is piled high with bales 
and bundles and packages of goods. He is in an 
awkward predicament when one falls off, or nearly 
so. The progress is slow with a heavy burden — a 
rapid foot-pace— and is all right for the passenger, 
except when bumping down two or three steps. 
The European, however, after one trial, to be able 
to say he has ridden in a wheelbarrow, prefers 
the easier and more rapid -ricksha, where the man 
runs along with this miniature gig, and rapidly 
reaches his destination. 

In Shanghai, with its broad roads in the foreign 
concessions, the Chinaman copies the foreigner in 

222 



Railways 

his luxurious carriage, more comfortable than any- 
thing John Chinarhan has evolved for travel in the 
long ages past, and conforms so much to foreign 
customs as to take his wives, sons, and daughters 
out for a ride with him. The streets are too 
narrow yet in most Chinese cities in the central 
and southern parts of the Empire for wheeled 
traffic. 

The railway, though long resisted, has at length 
penetrated to the Central Empire, and if one 
chooses, one may ride all the way from London 
(with the exception of crossing the English 
Channel) via Siberia to Peking and Tientsin in 
the north of China, or even go on to Plankow, in 
the centre of the Empire, and before a great many 
years even down to the south, to Canton itself. 
From Shanghai one may go to Nanking, one of the 
ancient capitals of China. From Canton one may 
penetrate by rail in two directions — west, as far 
as Sam Shui, some thirty odd miles, or north, on 
the slowly being constructed Canton-Hankow Rail- 
way, some forty or fifty miles, though every year 
will bring a further mileage on this line into use. 
Flong Kong and Canton are also now connected 
by the iron road. 

China finds it a slow process to construct rail- 
ways, when she insists on no foreign interference 
or foreign capital being subscribed or loaned to 
her. A further trouble in the south has been that 
the people have been afraid of trusting their money 
to Government officials, and the mandarins have 

223 



How Jolm Chinaman Travels 

met this attitude with too dictatorial and over- 
bearing a manner in their dealings with the people 
in regard to railway matters. 

Two of the great drawbacks to travel in China, 
however, are the robber and the pirate. The 
danger arising from them is at times considerable. 
The author has had three friends or acquaintances 
killed by Chinese pirates at different times and 
places, but, though threatened by them at one time, 
he has never actually been attacked. Certain dis- 
tricts of the country are infested with them ; at 
times other districts will go immune for years 
from their depredations. It takes considerably 
from the pleasure of travel to know that at any 
moment one may be brought face to face with a 
murderous crew. 

Travel by native houseboat is a most pleasant 
though slow mode of proceeding up or down the 
rivers. Land journeys entail sleeping in native 
inns, which beggar description for filth and 
vermin. 


224 



CHAPTER XVIII 


How Joliii Chinaman Dresses 

I MAGINE a people going about in pyjamas (and 
badju) the whole day long, and one will get 
some idea of the common costume of the male 
section of the nation; for a loose, baggy pair of 
trousers and a loose-fitting jacket form the basis 
of Chinese costume for both men, women, boys, 
and girls. The hot climate makes everything 
tight-fitting an abomination, except when the long, 
hot, weary months give place to the cool, refreshing 
winter. Then what are called collars appear — i.e,, 
something in the way of a band to fasten round 
the neck, primarily to keep it warm, made of satin 
or fur. The official collar is a stiff satin one. 

But to go back to jacket and trousers. They 
are even wanting altogether at limes in the case 
of labourers, when a man will appear in a costume, 
or rather no costume, which in our land of prudery 
would land him in the hands of the police in no 
time; for occasionally a man hard at work pound- 
ing rice or carrying it through the streets will be 

225 



How John Chinaman Dresses 

seen with nothing but a loin-cloth on. It is a 
common thing in hot weather— in fact, most 
common — to see John Chinaman with nothing on 
but his trousers, and these, if he is busy at work, 
will be rolled up as far as they will go. Short 
trousers are even made that scarce reach to the 
knees. The shopkeeper, especially after his meal, 
will often be seen sitting at his counter in this airy 
costume, or want of costume. In fact, it is the 
Chinese equivalent of “ shirt-sleeves,” but the shirt 
itself, or even anything below it, is wanting; and 
this, from the heat of the climate, is even more 
often resorted to than the throwing off of a coat 
in our lands. 

There is no indecency in all this want of dress, 
or with it; for the Chinese are a modest people, 
and in the south, even on the hottest summer’s day, 
no woman would appear in such attire or want 
of attire. In the north, where the heat is more 
excessive for a short period than it is in the south, 
the women when inside the courtyards of their 
houses do imitate this state of undress, to the extent 
of throwing their jackets open or off. Children, 
especially in country districts, may be seen toddling 
about with absolutely nothing on; but after a few 
years of this freedom from the trammels of dress, 
they have to conform to a semblance of modesty, 
and appear properly clothed, according to the 
Oriental idea of propriety. In the case of the girls 
quite enough is put on to satisfy even the Occi- 
dental in his idea of what is right and fit. 

226 



Jackets 


All sorts of changes are rung upon the founda- 
tion idea of these primitive upper and nether 
garments, and in the case of the humble classes of 
society a multiplicity of these garments is piled 
on, or peeled off, layer after layer, as the exigencies 
of the weather demand. Half a dozen jackets of 
one sort or another, and several pairs of trousers 
may be used to keep out the cold of winter. A 
long gabardine or robe is the frock-coat of the 
mass of the people, and so common is blue its 
colour, especially in summer, that a book has been 
written with the by no means inappropriate title 
of The Land of the Bine Gownj Often noth- 
ing is worn over this ; but a jacket, when the 
weather requires it, or, in the case of well-to-do, 
well-dressed people, a Chinese waistcoat may be 
seen over it. In accordance with the Chinese 
general rule of everything being done in an 
opposite way to our own, the waistcoat is an upper 
garment. 

But to return again to the jacket. It generally 
buttons round under the shoulder or arm, as does 
the long gown mentioned above, thus giving a 
lapel, which does not, however, fold back. But 
there are jackets and jackets. Some are close- 
fitting, and one variety of these has buttons all 
the way down the front wiorthy of an English 
“ buttons,” though Chinese buttons, as a rule, are 
more modest than in the West. They are often of 
small cord, knotted into a conventional shape. 

* By Mrs. Archibald Little. 

227 



How Jolm Chinaman Dresses 

Round brass ones are also common, and different 
ornamental styles are used, the boat-girls delight- 
ing in half-dollars or ten -cent pieces. 

Double jackets—/.^., jackets lined or padded 
with cotton-wool — serve to keep John Chinaman 
warm in the wintry blasts, fresh from the ice and 
snow fields of Siberia and Manchuria, when he 
cannot afford furs. Of these, if his purse allows 
him, he has a good variety, and some of them 
cheap. Unyeaned lambs’ wool is a favourite ; 
foxes’ fur and other furs give him a variety of 
choice and price. 

Once more we hark back to the jackets. It 
is not every one that wears a waistcoat, but it 
looks as if the original John Chinaman who de- 
veloped the idea took his jacket, cut off the sleeves 
well out from the body of the jacket, leaving 
gaping armholes, shortened it, and tightened it 
round his body (though it is still loose enough in 
its fit), and then had the original type from which 
the future waistcoats were developed. A sleeve- 
less, waistcoat- like jacket is sometimes worn, with 
nothing else on the body. It occasionally buttons 
down the front, as some of the jackets do. The 
woman’s jacket is longer than the man’s, and 
buttons under the shoulder and arm. 

As to the trousers, they flap about loose, looser 
than our Jack Tars’ round the ankle, and looser 
than any self-respecting Briton would wear his 
fearfully and wonderfully made pyjamas of jail 
colours of the rainbow. This frivolity of taste 

228 



Colour in Dress 


would shock sober John Chinaman^ who has his 
own judgment of good taste and his own gamut 
of colours to choose from. He is not a savage, 
to be tickled by gaudy tints, though he brings 
blue and green, in imitation of Nature, into juxta- 
position in his paintings and in his dress often 
enough to shock our preconceived notions of the 
harmonious blending or contrast of colours. 

Many an English manufacturer in the past has 
thought gaudy cottons and ginghams, which would 
set an African savage wild with joy, were the 
very things to touch a grave Chinaman’s heart 
with delight; instead of which they are received 
with disgust. A parallel mistake was made by a 
foreign firm who sent out goloshes to China with 
the names of the makers or importers stamped in 
Chinese characters on the soles. No Chinese will 
throw anything with writing on to the ground or 
street, where it would be trodden underfoot. The 
printed or written word is looked upon as almost 
sacrosanct. 

But as to colour in dress, it must be said that 
tastes differ in different parts of China). White, 
being mourning, is only for underwear in the south 
of China, except in the case of amahs (nurses) for 
foreign children, when, in deference to the wishes 
of their English, German, or American mistresses, 
they put on white jackets, to keep the children’s 
clothing from being dyed blue with the garments 
they would otherwise wear, A man may occa- 
sionally be seen with a white jacket on; but he 

229 Q 



How John Chinaman Dresses 


is not properly dressed. An exception must be 
made to this broad statement, for a white grass- 
cloth long robe is quite en regie for a teacher or 
other gentleman, and white sheepskin furs are 
worn. Thus it would appear tha,t material makes 
all the difference. Blue is to a large extent a 
predominant colour; but as Nature is profuse in 
her scheme of colours in the gorgeous East, so 
man vies with her in her profusion and brilliancy 
of hues, and with prodigal hand he dresses himself 
in glorious tints. 

In England men have given up the con- 
test with women as to who shall deck them- 
selves the more profusely in the colours of the 
rainbow, and retired ' in favour of the fairer sex, 
content that they should have the monopoly of 
adornment. In the Far East man still retains 
the supremacy, though woman runs him close in 
this respect. The long robes of gentlemen are of 
many colours — ^not that a Joseph’s coat of many 
colours is worn by men, though children often 
wear a patchwork jacket which reminds one of 
that Scripture character. Each garment is gener- 
ally a monotone with men. The robe will be 
of one of the many shades of purple, or of blue, 
or of pure white ; while brown and many other 
shades also appear in the wardrobe of a Chinese 
gentleman. His jacket over his robe will be of 
some other colour ; so that the sight of a 
crowd of well-dressed Chinese is a feast for 
the eyes . 


230 



splendour and Poverty 

The magnificence of a mandarin’s apparel is 
a sight to behold^ glistening in the richest colours 
as regards his robes, and his insignia emblazoned 
thereon, embroidered in gold and the softest floss 
silks, while his limpet-shaped hat crowned with 
his button of precious stone is ornamented with 
his single or double-eyed peacock feather, and 
the red cords hanging over his hat from the apex. 
As a set-off to all this gleaming glory are seen the 
severe hues of his black satin collar and official 
black satin boots with white felt soles. Round 
his neck hangs a costly string of beads, originally 
derived from the Buddhist rosary. 

Among the labouring classes, in addition to the 
prevalent blue, a rusty brown is much esteemed. 
With all the brilliancy of colouring, the exigencies 
of restricted means and economy cause many a 
shabby attire to be seen. The queue, hanging 
down the jacket or gown of the man, gives a 
greasy, broad mark down the back of the garment, 
and the Chinaman is not always particular as to 
the perfect cleanliness of the silk and satin gar- 
ments he wears. The ordinary labouring man in 
China does not perhaps look so dirty as the 
Englishman in a similar state often does (though 
there is sometimes not much to choose between 
them), partly due to there being less to get dirty 
and nasty, except in winter. The ordinary China- 
man is not so careful of the cleanly look of Ms 
clothes as many among us are; but the common 
garments are often washed. Many Chinese appear 

^ 3 ^ 



How John Chinaman Dresses 

less to appreciate the advantages of a good wash^ 
even in what is considered superior society^ though 
others are as clean as one could wish; but purse 
and climate are rather against it. 

There are clean Chinese^ as clean and sweet 
as any man. But the Chinese beggar is caked 
with dirt and crawling with vermin. Indeed, 
vermin are often looked upon as a necessary evil, 
a condition of things which cannot be avoided. A 
Chinese preacher enunciated the opinion that these 
parasites on the Chinese body were sent or per- 
mitted by Providence as a trial for patience, so 
that virtue might have her perfect work. A not 
uncommon sight in the streets is to see two Chinese 
coolies (or other Chinese of that class) engaged 
in the interesting pursuit of these preyers on human 
kind. Garments are produced by the lower classes 
in the open air, and, evidently with no sense of 
shame, are given a careful scrutiny along the seams 
and other likely hiding-places to discover the 
hidden haunts of the tormentors. Bed-boards are 
also brought out into the street and thumped end- 
wise on the pavement, to dislodge those which hide 
in the cracks during the day and plague man 
during the night. 

When a Chinese puts on his long robe, his 
trousers are generally tucked in at his ankles, and 
he often pulls over them what for want of a better 
term must be called leggings. These reach up to 
his thighs, and are held up by tapes ; tapes again 
are used to tie them at the ankles, where they 

232 



Washing-days 

narrow 'down. They are made of the sam'e 
materials as the other articles of dress. 

A wide-sleeved jacket, made of rich satin or 
fnr, is often put on over the long robe by those 
who can afford it. It is thus that the yellow 
jacket/’ bestowed by the Emperor, is worn. It 
is the equivalent of an order conferred by our 
Western sovereigns. 

Saint Monday is not kept in China, either to 
resort to the public-house — such establishments are 
not known in China — ^nor is it kept sacred to the 
washtub by the female members of the community. 
There are no wash-houses, no laundries, in China. 
Every man his own washerman might not be an 
inappropriate motto for the Chinaman. Given a 
dirty jacket or pair of trousers, a wash-basin or 
tub (soap was immaterial, but is now in general 
use, and even made in China), and the needful 
water, and in a few minutes, after much sousing 
and rinsing, out comes a clean garment, a long 
bamboo pole stretched from roof to roof or propped 
up by two bamboo crutches, and the sun does the 
rest. If necessary, the garment is starched, but 
ironing is unknown except by the tailor, who has 
been using the principle of the American charcoal 
iron for centuries, probably before the cute Yankee 
discovered it in the West and patented it. 
Mangling is also unknown. A garment or a pair 
of socks will be washed as need requires. There 
are no soiled-linen bags, or dirty-clothes baskets 
to accumulate a week’s washing. Of course among 

233 



How John Chinaman Dresses 


the rich their slave-girls or servant-women are 
the laundresses. 

In China the men have taken to the stocking, 
the women to the sock, and the ladies, with their 
bound feet, to neither the one nor the other; they 
bandage their deformities. The servant- woman 
often wears blue stockings. The “ blue-stocking 
in another sense of the term is almost unknown, 
though there are instances of her in history. 

The native footwear next the foot is made of 
cotton cloth sewn together ; outside are the slippers, 
rather than shoes, of cloth, with felt soles. There 
is, however, a considerable variety in shoes for 
men and women, and fashions change and vary. 
There are many naked feet to be seen; in fact, 
the labouring classes ,go barefooted to a large 
extent, some of them never putting on a pair of 
shoes except on New Year’s Day'^or their wedding 
day. When John Chinaman wears a pair of shoes, 
he delights to go slipshod, with the backs of the 
shoes folded down under his heels, and so to clatter 
along the street or through the house. Sandals are 
largely in use by the labourers ; especially are 
they worn by the coolies. They are made of 
straw, and sometimes consist only of a thin sole of 
leather fastened to the foot. 

The trousers of the men are sometimes tucked 
into the long stockings at the knees, and thus 
John Chinaman is often seen in knickerbockers. 
A long tape garter, blue or black, or of ornamented 
braid, worn below the knee, keeps the stockings 

234 




THREE WELL-DRESSED LADIES AND SERVANT. 


Women’s Raiment 


from slipping down. The women do not wear 
garters. Of late years foreign cotton socks are 
worn by some, as well as singlets or vests, as they 
are called nowadays in England. 

It behoves a mere man to approach the mysteries 
of woman’s dress with awe; but let it be said 
that the primary idea of the costume of woman in 
China is the same as man’s. In fact, women 
wear the breeches; so the English dictionary’s 
definition of those articles of apparel as “a 
garment worn by men ” is not applicable to the 
Far East. The higher classes of society disguise 
the fact when “ dressed,” by wearing flaps of richly 
embroidered silk or satin in plaits over their lower 
limbs in front and behind, which serve for petti- 
coats. There is, however, no hiding the fact that 
all the women in China wear breeches, in the 
literal sense of the term, and some figuratively as 
well. 

The women’s coats are longer than the men’s, 
reaching well down towards the knees. A few 
retain the high-soled shoe of fifty years ago; and 
some the Manchu shoe, with heel misplaced into 
the centre of the sole. The fashion of late has 
been to use the Shanghai shoe, which has a thin 
sole, and is more like a slipper, and must be 
far more comfortable to walk in than the high, 
perched-up affairs of former days. The women 
walk much more naturally with the new fashion 
than with the old, which constrained the free action 
of the foot and made their gait stiff and awkward. 

235 



How John Chinaman Dresses 


The cities of Shanghai and Soochow are the 
Paris and Bond Street or Regent Street as regards 
fashions, which do change even in conservative 
old China, as she has been in the past. A 
few years ago the fashionable girls and ladies 
were suddenly transformed almost into pigmies. 
Fashion decreed that jackets should fit tight, 
though not yielding to the contours of the figure, 
except in the slightest degree, as such an exposure 
of the body would be considered immodest. These 
jackets were also made very short. This style of 
dress did not last very long — a year or two, or a 
few years at the most. There is on the whole not 
so much scope for innovation or variety. 

The poorer classes are more out of the fashion- 
able world than with us, and with women the 
old style of doing the hair is seen sometimes 
amongst the working classes. The old fashion 
made obligatory a wonderful structure, formed into 
the shape of a teapot-handle at the back, and 
spreading out into two wings at the side of the 
head, which were kept extended by the plentiful 
application of a kind of gum. Two back wings 
also added to the curious erection. The present 
mode of doing the hair is much neater, and the 
shape of the head is shown, while the hair is 
gathered together behind. The hair is drawn off 
the forehead very tightly, and bound usually at 
the back, with the result that many young women 
even become bald on the forehead and temples. 
To hide this a little frontlet of hair is bound over 

236 



Absolute Necessities 


the bared part above the forehead, and sometimes 
black powder added. 

Women wear no collars, though there seems a 
tendency amongst some brought under foreign 
influence to, put on a narrow piece of crochet or 
similar work on the neck of their jackets. The 
women often wear a band over the forehead in 
winter, to keep off the cold. No muffs are used; 
but the men have such long sleeves to their coats 
and robes that in cold weather they can clasp their 
hands together and have them covered and warm. 
There is no need for the removal of ladies’ hats 
in a Chinese theatre, for the simple reason that 
there are none to take off. Except the working 
women, who wear them to protect themselves from 
sun and rain, and these are coarse bamboo affairs, 
no hats are worn by the female sex. For protec- 
tion from the elements, several kinds of bamboo 
hats are used by the men, one variety of which 
even eclipses the picture hat in size. Soft felt 
hats are also worn by the lower classes of men, 
and all grades wear close-fitting skull-caps. In 
summer these are largely discarded, but a man 
is not properly dressed without this cap, and must 
hurry to put one on when receiving a’ formal 
call. 

No woman is considered properly dressed with- 
out ear-rings. The variety of these in different parts 
of the country is wonderful. A very common kind 
is a large gilt or gold ring an inch or so in 
diameter, to which is suspended a fliat ring of jade- 

237 



How John Chinaman Dresses 


Stone. A press of jade is often worn to hold the 
back hair^, if the style of coiffure is such as to 
require it. Every woman has a long hairpin^ or 
two at least, of copper or silver, and, if she can 
afford it, of gold, with a part of it of jade. These 
stick out of the hair as ornaments. 


238 



CHAPTER XIX 


The Care of the Minute 

T he legal maxim' De minimis non curat lex 
■would appear generally to regulate English 
life and action, and the usual Englishman appears 
to ;rule his life by, to put it in nautical terms, 
a principle of “ by and large.” So far does he 
carry this that his smallest coin — the farthing — 
is almost a negligible quantity in the handling, 
except in the draper’s shop. 

The English proverb says, “ Take care of the 
pence, and the pounds will take care of them- 
selves,” and utterly ignores the insignificant 
farthing. In Chinese currency the smallest and 
almost' only coin is the cash, which at the present 
rate of exchange is worth the enormous amount 
of one-tenth of an English farthing, though its 
purchasing power in the interior of China is about 
what a penny is in England. It is a small round 
coin about the size of a halfpenny, with a square 
hole in the centre. This type of coin has been 
in existence for two thousand years, or even more. 
Its square hole serves as a text for a sermon 
on the motto, “Act on the square.” Its round 

239 



The Care of the Minute 


shape might be emblematical of the ease with 
which money rolls away out of one’s control. To 
prevent this happening, or rather really for con- 
venience in carrying and handling, this coin is 
tied up with dried grass-like strings or hempen 
cords, by means of its centre hole, into hundreds, 
and the hundreds into thousands. When there 
is a string of coin to throw over one’s shoulders 
when travelling, probably heavy as they are, they 
are less burdensome than the weighty iron coins 
of Lycurgus, in ancient Greece. 

A sweetmeat or a pickle can delight a child’s 
heart for a cash. A hundred, a few score years 
ago, would have served (at the rate of exchange 
then prevailing, of twenty to the penny) for the 
support of a labouring man for one day, nor 
in the interior is their sustaining power much 
lessened. The world-wide rising in prices has 
its echo even in the Far East, and living costs 
more than it used to do, which is all the more 
reason for John Chinaman’s frugal care for the 
minute. There is no such thing as the uitcon- 
sidered trifle in China ; nothing is wasted, except 
time ; nothing is of no account, unless, perhaps, 
it be human life. 

Every Chinaman seems born with the instinct of 
acquisitiveness. Where an Englishman would 
starve, the Chinaman will make a competence, for 
he is able to turn all advantages to the best 
account. Added to which, he is frugal in the use 
of the little he possesses or can obtain. He has 

240 



Small Savings 


an exact conception of the value of things. 
Nothing of the slightest use is thrown away, and 
this definition covers almost everything. Even, 
according to popular fancy and story, the gods 
are supposed to see that no waste takes place. 
As an instance of this is the story of the God 
of Thunder. He was rumbling along in his chariot 
in a storm, a half -monster of the skies, with claws 
of a fowl and the beak of a chicken, and in the 
semi-gloom and darkness of a Chinese kitchen, 
where soot and smoke paint the walls and roof 
black, he espied a young woman who had, as he 
thought, thrown away some rice — cooked rice — and 
thus wasted an article of food. He struck her 
dead with his hammer and chisel, to discover 
too late that what he thought was rice was the 
white rind of a melon. 

To prevent the repetition of such a sad and 
fatal mistake the Goddess of Lightning was 
appointed to go with the god on his punitive 
expeditions, whose duty it would be to flash light 
from two mirrors she held in her hands, and thus 
illuminate the dark places of the earth before the 
indignant god should strike. 

The child is warned against the waste of leaving 
even a few grains of rice in his bowl after his 
simple breakfast .and dinner by a frightful story 
that for every grain thus left a smallpox mark 
will appear on his face. 

Every scrap of iron is saved and hoarded up, 
or turned into cash when next the itinerant marine - 

241 



The Care of the Minute 


hawker comes round with his two baskets to gather 
the spoils which would be thrown upon the dust- 
heap in our lands of the West. Shiploads of old 
horseshoes and scrap-iron are sent out to China, 
where ere long they I'eappear in useful kitchen 
knives or tools and nails for the carpenter. 

Every Chinese boy is a successful merchant in 
embryo. A Samuel Budgett would be no wonder 
in this land of frugality and picking up of scraps, 
as every Chinaman in humble circumstances would 
act as that worthy merchant did about the horse- 
shoe, and further, would probably give Samuel 
Budgett lessons to surprise him. 

What would be insignificant trifles in the West 
are worth money in China. Things that are cast 
out on the rubbish-heap with us are hoarded up 
or turned into ready cash — such, for example, as 
old tins, whose day seems past when all the jam 
is gone and the sardines they held eaten. Every 
tin of a similar nature, if not immediately utilised 
as a drinking -cup or box to hold something, finds 
its way to the tinsmith’s shop. Old kerosene tins 
begin life anew as boxes and trunks : one makes 
a handy small one, two a fairly good-sized one, 
while four would make a magnificent trunk. 
When travelling in the country you can scarcely 
please a Chinaman better than by giving him all 
the old tins, cans, bottles, and pots which have 
contained your preserved fruits and provisions. 
His eyes glisten and his face beams on the receipt 
of the treasures. 


242 



The Hawker’s Spoils 

The marine-hawkers perambulate the streets 
with two large baskets^ slung to a pole over their 
shoulders. Scarcely anything comes amiss to 
them ; bits of copper^ iron, tin, or other metal, 
old shoes, and most of the things we would think 
worthless find a rest in their baskets in exchange 
for a few cash. One American pat ent -medicine - 
seller offers a cent for every old bottle issued 
originally from his firm, if returned to him empty. 
Without any such notice on the empties, every 
empty bottle is of value in China, and after passing 
through the marine -hawkers’ baskets may be seen 
in rows on some street stall, where after the in- 
finitesimal gain made by the gatherer of them, 
another small profit will result to the retailer. 

No old bottles are seen lying about the shore 
or on the roadside ; they are too valuable to 
be tossed aside like that. The spirit merchant, 
or whoever supplies his goods in such things, has 
no need to have them specially made for him, 
though many are made in China— especially is this 
the case with the tiny phials holding essences, 
such as peppermint, largely used medicinally. 

After you have drunk your tea, your servant, 
besides having his cup, will often resell the used 
leaves. Fresh tea is made from them on some 
poor man’s table, and they thus serve to cheer 
another family by being re-infused, and this though 
tea is cheap enough in the Land of Tea. 

The ashes from the opium -pipe are re -smoked 
by others ; but this drug is an expensive article, 

243 



The Care of the Minute 


Clothes pass down from one to the other, till at 
last they reach the beggar, at times a mass of 
rags scarcely held together. In the first stage of 
their descent from their high estate, and while 
still jvery respectable, you may see them lining 
the walls of the old clothes shops as they are 
styled, but “ ancient ” is often a more fitting term 
to apply to them than “ old.” 

Poverty incites to this care for the minute. So 
the children, little tiny toddlers often, supplement 
the efforts of the father and mother to get rice 
for the hungry mouths, by foraging about for 
every twig and shaving that can be found to keep 
the pot boiling. The seamstress-mother stumps 
along on her bound feet, carrying in her basket, 
now that the day’s work is over, scraps for mend- 
ing and patching for the men whose wives, in 
accordance with Chinese custom, are living at home 
in the country with the mothers -in -law. Her 
footsteps are slow, prevented as she is by her 
cramped feet from pacing it out bravely, and she 
is burdened with the baby carried pick-a-back, 
while a little brood in varying stages of child- 
hood run along beside her, gathering up some 
morsel of wood or bit of combustible matter. 

Every floating stick or piece of wood is picked 
up carefully by the boat -women as they row their 
sampans along, or as they drift on the tide past 
them. A shallow, tiny saucer-like basket attached 
to a short bamboo pole is ready amongst the boat 
furniture, handy to retrieve this flotsam and rescue 

244 



Near Starvation 


any stray chip which in England would not be 
thought worth the trouble of rescuing: from the 
water, much less of stopping the plying of an oar, 
as the boat-women will do at times, to recover 
them from the stream. One may sometimes see a 
boat coming along under sail, the sails made of 
old flour-bags sewn together. 

It is only by the strictest economy und the utili- 
sation of every advantage that comes in their way 
that the great mass of the Chinese people can 
manage to make both ends meet. Millions of 
them live just above starvation point. Under such 
circumstances there is the incentive to a husband- 
ing of every resource, to a seizure of every oppor- 
tunity that presents itself to save money or to 
obtain what prevents the expenditure of money. 
And yet withal they are, on the whole, a happy, 
merry people. 

About the only thing in China that seems use- 
less is dirt ; and so it is allowed to accumulate 
in street and house, in clothes often, and not seldom 
on the person. The heaps of rubbish piled up 
at street corners or on the country roadside, or on 
the banks of rivers, contain nothing of value. 
Shreds of pottery, broken tiles, pieces of earthen- 
ware, mud, old bits of mortar resolving themselves 
into earth, and suchlike apparently present no 
potentiality of use, except in reclaiming land on 
the river fronts. This is constantly being done 
in an inexpensive manner, though rather to 
the detriment of some of the watercourses. 

245 R 



The Care of the Minute 


Nature has so lavishly provided John Chinalnan 
with these means of intercommunication in the 
south that he has not yet awakened to the neces- 
sity of conserving their courses and preserving 
their banks intact. 

Even old cofSn-boards, after the corpse or 
skeleton has done with them, are raised from the 
dead, or the dead raised from them and provided 
for elsewhere. The boards serve as a primitive 
bridge (being strong, massive chunks of timber) to 
cross a ditch or watercourse. Even a fence or 
hoarding made of them has been seen by the author. 

Men with large wooden trays, somewhat like 
a magnified edition of a butcher’s tray, stand in 
the mud of river-banks, sifting out the silt, to 
recover any object that may seem to them worth 
picking up. 

The Chinese would consider our system of 
sewerage a dreadful waste. The drains^ &c., are 
only for the surface water. The dirty water from 
the kitchens is thrown into old buckets, except 
a small quantity that goes down the open sinks, 
and periodically women come and empty them 
into their own pails, which they carry off for pig- 
swill. Men and women also collect the night- 
soil from the houses in the cities and towns, and 
about 9 a.m. many a street is, to the European 
passer-by, almost impassable, owing to the frightful 
stench rising from the open buckets and the collect- 
ing operations, for all is done in the open streets. 
The material gathered in this and other ways is 

246 



The Complete House 


carried away and used for manuring the fields^ 
whicli^ barring the rice-fields, at all events in the 
south of China; are to a large extent simply 
market -gardens . 

The liquid fertilising material is applied diluted 
with water to the growing plants. It may be 
imagined how unpleasant a walk in the country 
in the evening may be under such circumstances ; 
for that is the time that the market -gardener or 
farmer employs for this combination of watering 
and manuring. It may also be imagined with 
what success plague, cholera, and other epidemics 
spread under such conditions. The Chinese live 
through it all, and seem to thrive under what would 
kill off Europeans wholesale. 

Probably no people on earth live on less than 
the Chinese can and often do, unless it be the 
natives of the Indian peninsula, though, as soon 
as his enhanced income will permit of it, John 
Chinaman launches out in his expenditure on food, 
clothes, furniture, house-rent, and luxuries. 

John Chinaman has pretty well denuded his 
country of woods and forests, by his search for 
firewood ; and he prevents the young trees growing 
again. For the grass-cutters, mostly women and 
girls, scour the hills and mountains to gather their 
bundles of grass, and all falls before their destruc- 
tive knives. 

It is wonderful how little one can do with, 
if one is brought up to do without. A trestle or 
two, perhaps, one or more hard, uncomfortable 

247 



The Care of the Minute 

chairs of wood or bamboo, a bedstead of two 
trestles and two long broad boards, a mat for 
mattress, a blanket, a quilt, a mosquito-net, a 
rough wooden or bamboo table, often a ‘‘ gate ” 
table, a few earthenware pots and pans, and two 
or three furnaces (each pot or pan has a separate 
one), half a dozen bowls and plates, lastly, but 
not of least importance, a teapot — and there is a 
house fully furnished for a poor family in China. 

No ; one side of life has not been provided for. 
An idol, or a piece of board or paper with the god’s 
or gods’ names written on, will do for worship, 
and some charms. Nevertheless, with it all, the 
love of Nature is not quite forgotten. There will 
likely be a broken flower-pot or two, with some 
broken-down plants. 

The litter of scraps of paper, old envelopes, 
and tom-up letters, with occasionally a whole 
newspaper blown about in the streets or over the 
sands, or even a page or two of a book with 
a,dvertisements galore— all this is a sight never 
seen in China. This is not due to tidiness or 
cleanliness, as every vacant space in a city or 
a street comer has its heaps of rubbish piled high ; 
but is owing to the reverence felt and evinced 
for the printed or written page. Scarcely any 
thing causes the foreigner more to be despised 
in China than his utter disregard of such things. 

The author when throwing away into a pond 
a piece of dirty foreign-printed paper in the 
interior of China had his attention solemnly called 

248 



Reverence for the Characters 


to the fact by a young Chinese lad in an awe- 
struck tone of voice. No paper with characters on 
it is thrown down on the ground or tossed away, 
but carefully stuffed into small wooden boxes 
aflfijSsd to the walls, or, failing these, into cracks 
or crevices in trees and like situations or cavities, 
whence they are gathered by men who go about 
with a basket and a pair of bamboo tongs for 
the express purpose of gathering up every scrap 
of printed or written paper. The contents of these 
baskets are burned in a temple or public hall. 
There is scarcely any need for the rag-picker in 
China, though such a gatherer is sometimes seen ; 
for there is little or nothing of any value for 
him to gather. Dustbins are not required in 
houses — ^the street comer or the river front 
serves that useful purpose. 

Silver in China was not coined till of late years. 
With the foreign mercantile intercourse, Spanish, 
South American, and Mexican dollars were intro- 
duced. They were stamped, as they circulated, 
with each merchant’s or shopkeeper’s private mark, 
to secure their being genuine, with the result that 
after a few score or hundreds of “ chops,” as 
they were called, had been impressed on them 
the hard -used dollars broke up into pieces. Even 
when whole the dollar was weighed, to make 
sure it was full weight. The scales for this 
purpose, which were finely marked, allowed 
seventy-two hundredths of a tael, or some- 
times it was seven hundred and seventeen 

249 



The Care of the Minute 

thousandths to the dollar'. One of these seventy- 
two hundredths did not amount to a halfpenny ; 
but it was worth quite an appreciable number of 
cash, and John Chinaman’s care of the minute is 
carried to fractions little thought of by us. • 

The dollar being thus reduced to fragments 
by this continual “ chopping/* became “ broken 
silver,” and if the little scale was required 
for the whole coins, much more was it necessary 
for the bits of silver, to know what they were 
worth. In purchases these little fragments and 
their weights were haggled over until agreements 
could be come to between buyer and seller. The 
shopman had his money-scales, and the purchaser 
also carried his as well, to check the shopman’s. 
With the silver coinage that has now come in, 
this state of affairs is gradually disappearing. 

There is no need of a Eustace Miles to teach 
John Chinaman to live on threepence a day. 
Thousands, if not hundreds of thousands, already 
do it on less. Refreshments and food of all kinds 
are obtainable at a low rate unheard of in England. 
Eight Tangerine oranges may be had for a penny ; 
others cost about double that ; a stick of sugar- 
cane about eight or ten inches long costs less 
than a farthing ; several little cakes may be bought 
for the equivalent of a farthing, and the satne 
low scale of prices governs many of the articles 
of native consumption. 

As to the care for the minute in labour, a 
yolume might be written on it, and on the un- 

250 



Waste Not, Want Not 

ceasing patience which John Chinaman will bestow 
on his work. The amount of labour devoted to 
some minute treasure of porcelain decoration is 
little short of fabulous. Matthew Arnold’s picture 
of the “ cunning workman/’ who 

''Pricks with vermilion some porcelain vase, 

An emperor’s gift — at early morn he paints, 

And all day long, and when night comes the lamp 
Lights up his studious forehead and thin hands,” 

could probably be seen scores of times in the 
humbler quarters of great cities in China. He 
will devote days, weeks, months to the intiicate 
minutiae of some piece .of carving, nor think his 
time wasted. 

From all the foregoing it will be seen that if 
there is any country where the adage, “ Waste 
not, want not,” is believed in and acted up to 
by the people, it is China, where it is practised 
to its fullest extent. As a nation, the Chinese 
present to us an example of frugality and a 
habitual readiness to labour which scorns no 
drudgery or pains. 


^251 



CHAPTER XX 


The Yellow Peril 

'' Peace is to be prized/* — ^The Chinese Classics. 

^'Who can unite the Empire under one sway? He who has no 
pleasure in killing men can so unite it/’ — ^The Chinese Classics. 

W ITH no uncertain voice does the sage 
Mencius denounce war. That “ lust of 
conquest will not prosper ” ; that “ war hinders 
the increase of population ” ; that “ a war of 
conquest is really manslaughter ’’ ; that “ it 
destroys the balance of power between states ; 
that “ annexation should only be when the inhabit- 
ants are favourable ” ; that “ even a war of punish- 
ment may be avoided ” ; that “ war is generally 
to be deprecated ” ; that “ there are no righteous 
wars. Instances there are of one war better than 
another ” — these are the principles to be deduced 
from the Book of Mencius. i Mencius “ always 
advocates a policy of peace. In this respect he 

^ See Faber’s Mind of Mencius^ by Hutchinson, Triibner’s 
“ Oriental ” Series, pp. 268-72. 

252 



War Discountenanced 


is at one with all the chief state philosophers of 
the Chinese.” 

Lao Tsz says : “ Wherever a host is stationed, 
briers and thorns spring! up. In the sequence of 
great armies there are sure to be bad years.” 
This caveat against war ” goes on to say : “A 
[skilful] commander strikes a decisive blow, and 
stops. He does not dare (by continuing his opera- 
tions) to assert and complete his mastery.” “ He 
strikes it as a matter of necessity ; he strikes it, 
but not from a wish for mastery.” The “ Tap 
Teh King ” proceeds : “ Now arms, however 

beautiful, are instruments of evil omen, hateful, 
it may be said, to all creatures.” “ He who has 
killed multitudes of men should weep for thetn' 
with the bitterest grief.” 

Thus the founder of Taoism made by his 
writings a dead set against war. He considered 
it productive of misery and leading early to ruin^ 
as “ only permissible in a case of necessity, and 
even then its spirit and tendencies must be 
guarded against.” * 

To these masters of thought and leaders of the 
people’s minds may be added others. Sufifice it 
to call attention to Li Hua’s eloquent description 
of an old battlefield where “ the poison breath of 
war ” blasted man and beast.^ 

* See Legge’s The Sacred Books of China : The Texts of Taoism 
in “The Sacted Books of the East” Series. The Clarendon 
Press, Oxford. 

* See Giles's Gems of Chinese Literature, pp. 152-5. 

^53 



The Yellow Peril 


Thus we have sage and philosopher, scholar and 
people, all with an underlying repugnance to war. 
Let us hear what Wjt TsU (the author of one 
of the oldest military treatises in the world) has 
to say on its subject-matter, as regards the natuie 
and reasons for the use of the sword : 

“ The natures of war are five : First, a 
righteous war ; second, a war of might ; third, a 
war of revenge ; fourth, a war of tyranny ; fifth, 
an unrighteous war. The prevention of tyraimy 
and the restoration of order is just ; to strike 
in reliance on numbers is oppression ; to raise 
the standard for reasons of anger is a war of 
revenge ; to quit propriety and seize advantage is 
tyranny.” 

“ The barbarous prestige conceded to military 
conquerors ” forms no part of the Chinese visions 
of the future. If any country has lived up to the 
idea of the pen being mightier than the sword, 
China has been that country. She is now being 
caught in the vortex, ever widening in its destruc- 
tive energies, into which the most civilised nations 
of modern times cast their hard-earned wealth and 
peace of mind, while striving to ride unharmed 
over its whirlpool depths. 

The idea that China will rouse herself in her 
hundreds of millions to overrun the Far West 
is a fevered dream, a chimera of the brain ; it 
forms a grand plot for the most sensational type 
of novel. Some of her emperors in the past, it is 
true, have dreamed dreams, and sent out armies 

254 



No Lust of Conquest 

to conquer the Isles of the Seas, to wit, the Island 
Kingdom' of Japan ; but their fate was that of 
the Arlmada against our own shores, and they 
disappeared. 

The whole instinct of the people, their whole 
mode of thought, the trend of public opinion would 
all doubtless be against the transformation of the 
nation as a mass into a vast military force, 
leaving their homes to go out conquering and 
to conquer ; but one or two of those in power 
are succumbing to the ideas of conscription in 
the future. 

It is not that Chinese brains are not capable 
of the formation of plans of warfare. In addition 
to their, own native intelligence, the study of 
Western methods of warfare, superadded to their 
own skill in the past, would be sufficient for the 
exigencies of the moment, and adequate to the 
needs of the future. Their adaptation to circum- 
stances is remarkable. What looks like a most 
primitive procedure in the war in the Western 
hinterland of China was a most wise procedure ; 
for the Chinese rule of warfare, that the enemy 
should provide the commissariat, was carried to 
such an extent that the Chinese army rested from 
its arms, and, for the nonce, the swords of the 
soldiers were exchanged for ploughshares and their 
spears into pruning -hooks. 

When the crops which they had sown had 
ripened, and food for the campaign for the ensuing 
season was provided, the general, Caesar -like, 

255 



Tlie Yellow Peril 

resumed operations ; and thus the barbarians 
of the West were reduced, and the horrors 
of war interspersed with the delights of farm- 
ing, And the wise commander proceeded to 
gather the fruits of the ground for future 
exigencies till another period of intercalary farm- 
ing arrived. 

Such a method, with its leisurely procedure, 
would hardly meet the exigencies of modern war- 
fare ; for a wave of the Yellow Peril to engulf 
Europe with its hordes would require a gigantic 
food supply to meet its prodigious appetite 

Again, were such an insane vision as the invasion 
of Europe ever to turn the heads of the sober- 
minded Chinese, would not the nations of the West 
sink their minor differences, and oppose an 
irresistible phalanx to such a devastating host? 
Because Japan brought Russia to her knees — the 
best of Asia, as far as military prowess is con- 
cerned, against the worst of Europe in regard to 
martial preparedness— it does not follow that 
either Japan or any other Asiatic nation could 
conquer the whole of Europe, or, for that matter, 
the entire world. 

It is a mystery how the vast preparations for 
such an impossible undertaking could be kept quiet 
in the present day, when every event is known, 
to use an Irishism^ even before it takes place, 
and the omniscient and omnipresent newspaper 
correspondent ferrets out every item' of news for 
the ubiquitous daily paper. 

356 



In Favour of Peace 

To ensure the success of such a vast under- 
taking, one master-brain would have to dominate 
the myriads of thinking, peace-loving Chinese, and 
turn them from! rational human beings to wild 
beasts of the desert. 

Could one imagine such a; tyrant ready to bend 
the whole will of the nation to his behests, the 
preparations required for such a gigantic conquest 
would be immense. The resources of the nation 
would be required for generations to come to bte 
husbanded for the direful moment. All her latent 
powers must be developed to their utmost extent ; 
her new-found knowledge adapted to the genius 
of her people ; their minds moulded and diverted 
into new channels of thought and desires ; the 
conservatism of past millenniums turned, not into 
the learning of the West, but into a blatant greed 
and lust of bloodshed ; the whole nature of John 
Chinaman radically changed, from) that of a 
civilised being into that of a wild savage, breathing 
destruction to all mankind but his own kith and 
kin. 

Added to this, remembering the constant and 
rapid change of armaments, munitions of war, 
and all that pertains to warfare, both on land 
and sea, which renders in a few years every weapon 
obsolete, where are the millions of money, the 
hundreds of millions of taels of silver, to come 
from, to provide the equipments of war on such 
a scale? China is passing rich, without a shadow 
of doubt ; but until some financier shall arise with 

257 



The Yellow Peril 

a multi-millionaire’s powers of amassing her 
wealth, of storing up her ingots of sycee, or a 
genius is born for the occasion, and inherits the 
purse of Fortunatus, it is a mystery where the 
wherewithal would come from. 

China is already following the example of the 
West, by borrowing from' her, for her railways, 
&c. Would she continue to borrow from her victim 
to destroy her, and would her victim provide her 
in this way with the sinews of war? 

Again, many a line of railway would be required 
to pour forces such as would be required for this 
Armageddon, which our prophets of woe. 
Cassandra-like, are foretelling ; fleets of trans- 
ports, men -of -war, fighting ships of all kinds and 
classes, the like of which the world has never seen 
in ancient or modern times. 

Is it possible, then, that the grafting of Western 
militarism on the rooted hatred of war of the 
Chinese will so alter the whole fibre of the Chinese 
moral nature that rapine and bloodshed, conquest 
and the lust of rule, destruction and the wholesale 
murder of millions of defenceless women and 
children, the annihilation of nations, the changing 
of the gardens of the world into deserts of blight 
and devastation will result? Is it possible that the 
good tree of Chinese life will bring forth such 
evil and corrupt fruit? God forbid 1 To do this, 
the whole nation must be transformed into demons, 
a savage people must take the place of a civilised 
nation. If this is to be the result of the introduc- 

258 



The Golden Rule 

tion of otir boasted Western civilisation^ then let 
it perish off the face of the earth ! 

But those who know the Chinese will give an 
emphatic “no” to the whole question. 

Is it to be supposed that the knitting together 
of the nations in the bonds of friendship and amity 
will not extend beyond the bounds of Europe^ 
where it has begun, fostered by the wise counsels 
of our late King? Is it to be supposed that this 
entente cordiale, that this brotherhood of nations, 
will not extend and its influence be felt till even 
distant China and flts teeming millions will be 
brought into the bond of peace? Who would have 
thought a few years ago that an alliance would 
have been formed between Japan and England? 
We believe that eventually the golden rule of 
nations as well as of individuals will be, “ Love 
thy neighbour as thyself.” The West expresses 
the Golden Rule positively ; the East negatively 
— “ What you do not like done to yourself, do 
not do to others.” Three times, in slightly varying 
terms, is this expressed in the Chinese classics. 
If anything, the West in this shows a more 
excellent way to the East. Will the East, already 
having the idea, pervert this glorious teaching to 
the destruction of light and learning — the East 
which has been the origin of light— Oriente 
lux—znd its depository during the dark ages of 
Europe? 

The Spirit of the Age— the Zeitgeist — is that of 
unity and accord ; the world is being drawn 

^59 



The Yellow Peril 

together, and under its influence will not the noble 
precepts of the Chinese sages, long lying latent 
in their classics, and saturating the native mind, 
find a wider field of operation in the extending 
sphere of life which is opening up before the 
Chinese, touched as they are now being with the 
peace-giving spirit of Him who said, “ My peace 
I give unto you ” ? 

In many parts of the world John Chinamap, 
instead of being a yellow peril, has been a golden 
blessing. The British Empire in the Straits Settle- 
ments is being built up by his persistent, persever- 
ing efforts. Out of almost the depths of the 
ocean, like the coral insect, he has raised up a 
solid foundation of commerce, industry, and pro- 
gress. To change the illustration, he is the busy 
bee who takes the place of the drone. The native 
will not work as John Chinaman will. His progres- 
sive, pushing energy transforms the drowsy, sleepy 
jungle into the thriving British colony and the 
enterprising city. 

John Chinaman has developed the Malay 
Peninsula by his ever-increasing crowds of pushing, 
industrious, enterprising, diligent toilers . Large 
numbers of Chinese are found in South America, 
the West Indies, and in India itself, and almost 
anywhere you go, even on the top of a London 
’bus, you will find John Chinaman. There is 
scarcely a nation on earth that has not at least 
one of his number within its boundaries. He 
is almost as ubiquitous as the proverbial Scot, 

260 



John as a Scot 


of whose habits of frugality and patience he is 
an Asiatic edition, and, like the Scot, he reaps 
his reward. Like the Scot again, he also gets 
far; more than his share of opprobrium for the 
very qualities which ensure his success. 



CHAPTER XXI 


John Chinaman at School 

T he education of the Chinese has had every- 
thing to do with their apparent mentally 
stagnant position for centuries. Having elaborated 
a system that admitted of no expansive energy for 
generations, every Chinese scholar was but a 
stereotyped edition of previous issues of the race, 
with little scope for individuality of expression. 
If one broke loose from the trammels which bound 
his fellows, he was a heretic ; for all were schooled 
to one line of thought and to one mode of expres- 
sion. The almost exclusive cultivation of the 
memory, with the confining of the expression of 
thought into rigid lines of conventionality, based 
on the classics and the scholastic writings on them, 
has tended to destroy the power of thought. 

While thus affording an excellent training for 
the retention of what has been once learned, the 
course of education was not of great utility jn 
expanding the mind. The result was that there 

262 



The Old System 

was a certain variety within narrow limits in the 
intellectual attitude and mental output. The objec- 
tive in opposition to the subjective held sway. 
Compared with the vast range of subjects which 
nowadays find entrance into our curriculum of 
study, the Chinese course has been decidedly 
limited. 

The immortal classics filled the mind’s eye of 
the Chinese scholar ; his purview extended no 
further. Fortunately, the few books which formed 
the text of Chinese learning, which other future 
works amplified, had applied to everyday life, as 
a sermon does the original motto on which it' is 
founded— fortunately, we say, these books embraced 
one book of history and one of poetry, as well as 
one on etiquette ; so that the study of their 
country’s past and the cultivation of the muse 
entered into the higher school and college course. 
Arithmetic, though hinted at in the first book put 
into a Chinese boy’s hand, was beneath the notice 
of the ordinary Chinese student. A few treatises 
on it and some of the higher branches of mathe- 
matics I are to be found in the vast storehouses 
of Chinese literature. The scholar, deeply versed 
in the lore of the schools, as well as the merchant 
in his counting-house, and the clerk at his desk, 
are perforce content to use for assistance in the 
simplest calculations the abacus, or counting-board, 

■ Those who are interested in the subject will find the mention 
of a couple of score of works in Chinese on these subjects in 
Wylie’s Notes on ChineseJLUeralure, pp. 91-104. 

263 



John Chinaman at School 

constructed on the plan of that taught to our infant 
classes in our Board Schools.* Under the Chinese 
accountant’s deft and agile fingers, the balls fly 
with lightning speed up and down the wires or 
rods. With this combination of mental and 
mechanical arithmetic, most rapid results are 
obtained. But this has nothing to do with the 
scholar, who simply picks up a knowledge of its 
use from seeing it constantly employed, or, if he 
enters upon a commercial life, has to be taught 
its manipulations. 

The complex character of the Chinese written 
language and its inadaptability to be set down as 
our Arabic numerals are in any position convenient 
for the fundamental operations of addition, sub- 
traction, multiplication, and division, and the 
resulting complication of these simple processes 
in more advanced calculations — all these tell 
against the easy employment of the Chinese written 
characters as sigtis in the carrying out of mathe- 
matical operations. We scarcely appreciate the 
facilities which our figures give us. We may 
picture to ourselves how cumbrous it would be- 
in fact, almost impossible — to carry out the com- 
plex and intricate reckonings connected with the 
whole branch of mathematical subjects in visible 
and simple signs, were the Roman method of 

It is interesting to find that there are several Russian customs 
and habits similar to, or identical with, those of the Chinese ; 
such, for instance, as the use of the counting-board in business, 
the eating of melon seeds, &c. 

264 



Chinese Geographers 


representing numbers the only S3nnbols at our dis- 
posal. True it is that the Chinese have a simpler 
method of arithmetical notation, a distant cousin 
to ours, and the affinities of which to ours may 
be traced ; but, though these might have been 
employed as our figures are, the Chinese have 
not advanced in this direction beyond a facility 
in simply expressing numbers by them. The 
disadvantages of the use of the abacus are that 
it is only the process of reckoning as it proceeds 
that is temporarily recorded, pari passu. There 
is no long array of figures to go back on, and 
detect any error in the calculation, nor to keep 
as a record of the process by which the result 
has been attained. Each step in the process 
obliterates the former, until the final result is 
reached. 

Geography has been, under the old system, an 
unknown study to the schoolboy, and the most 
crass ignorance has been the normal condition 
of the Chinese hitherto, who, misled by the name 
of the Central Empire (or Middle Kingdom) of 
their own land, and by the scant knowledge pos- 
sessed of distant lands by their forefathers, have 
supposed that China was the centre of the world, 
which engrossed nearly the whole map, while other 
nations inhabited islets scattered round the borders 
of this projection of the earth’s surface. Though 
grudging space for earth’s kingdoms, this curious 
map had room to spare for the Milky Way, as the 
Chinese believe it is connected with the earth. 

265 



John Chinaman at School 

Natural Science, it may well be supposed, was 
not thought of. A most unnatural nescience pre- 
vails ; most ridiculous things are believed in this 
connection, worthy of our own Mediaeval and Dark 
Ages. 

The acquisition of his own language was the 
only task the Chinese schoolboy had to set himself 
to, and notwithstanding it was his own, it was as 
difficult as the learning of another tongue is to an 
English boy ; for though he can speak his native 
tongue, the language of the books is so different 
as to take years of unremitting toil to acquire a 
facility in its use. Many a boy after two or three 
years at school, debarred by poverty from a 
thorough education, left school with but a smatter- 
ing of it, which was of but little use to him in 
after life. Should official appointments come in 
his way when a man, he then learns Mandarin. 
To be a polyglot in Chinese, he must go out of 
his own land, and thus in some foreign port, where 
the different speeches of his many-tongued country 
are gathered together, in the mart, and amidst 
the exigencies of trade and commerce, be neces- 
sarily acquires more than one of them. 

Memory was the only thing exercised at first by 
the youthful aspirant to Government position (for 
this is the goal set before the student), and, in 
consequence, he simply learned everything by heart 
for the first year or two. It is much as if our 
youngsters, when first sent to school, were set 
down to learn off by heart, without any explanation 

266 



First Steps 


at all, Cornelius Nepos or Caesar. The hook first 
put before the boy did condescend to adapt itself 
slightly to him by being written in rhyme in lines 
of three words each ; but its style was above the 
comprehension of the youthful brain. Here are a 
few passages from it : — 

“ Men at their birth, are by nature radically good ; 

Though alike in this, in practice they widely diverge. 

If not educated, the natural character grows worse ; 

A course of education is made valuable by close attention. 
Of old, Mencius's mother selected a residence. 

And when her son did not learn, cut out the [half-wove] 
web. 

To nurture and not educate is a father’s error ; 

To educate without rigour shows a teacher’s indolence. 
That boys should not learn is an unjust thing; 

For if they do not learn in youth, what will they do when 
old? 

As gems unwrought serve no useful end, 

So men untaught will never know what right conduct is,” 


After running over a number of subjects, 
amongst them an epitome of Chinese history, thig 
little Guide to Knowledge for the instruction of the 
young ends thus : — 

“ Diligence has merit ; play yields no profit ; 

Be ever on your guard; rouse all your energies.’’ 

The next that succeeded this rather abstruse 
treatise for a boy at the age of five or six, is a 
unique book in tetrameter, consisting of just 
a thousand characters. The story goes that the 

267 



John Chinaman at School 


author (a.d. 550), commanded by the Emperor 
to make an ode out of these thousand characters 
handed to him, did so in one night ; but the tour 
\de force of the effort, accomplished under the 
fear of condign punishment if he failed, blanched 
his raven locks. He was richly rewarded for his 
great mental exertion and wondrous feat. How 
any mortal brain, its actions confined within such 
arbitrary limits, could accomplish the superhuman 
task is a mystery. This second book begins 
thus : — 


“ The heavens are sombre ; the earth yellow ; 

The whole universe [at the creation] was one wild waste. 

A common third book is one entitled Odes for 
Children^ in pentameter verse. Here are some 
specimens of it : — 

It is of the utmost importance to educate children ; 

Do not say that your families are poor. 

For those who can handle well the pen, 

Go where they will, need never ask for favours. 


One at the age of seven shewed himself a divinely endowed 
youth, 

‘Heaven,' said he, ‘gave me my intelligence: 

Men of talent appear in the courts of the holy monarch. 
Nor need they wait in attendance on lords and nobles. 

In the morning I was an humble cottager, 

In the evening I entered the Court of the Son of Heaven 
Civil and military offices are not hereditary, 

Men must, therefore, rely on their own efforts. 

268 



Learning the Classics 

A passage for the sea has been cut through mountains, 

And stones have been melted to repair the heavens ; 

In all the world there is nothing that is impossible ; 

It is the heart of man alone that is wanting resolution. 

Once I myself was a poor indigent scholar, 

Now I ride mounted in my four-horse chariot, 

And all my fellow- villagers exclaim with surprise.’ 

Let those who have children thoroughly educate them.” 

Then the classics were put into the schoolboy’s 
hands. Everything was learned by heart for some 
time even after this ; and each scholar^ to show 
that he was at work, and probably the better to 
fix in his memory what he was learning, shouted 
out, over and over again, in a loud sing-song 
tone, the passage he was learning, until he knew 
it thoroughly. After which he went up to ithe 
master by himself to “ back ” it, Le., he turned 
his back on him, so as not to see his book lying 
on the master’s desk, and said his lesson. 

After the first year or so the master explained 
to him what the scholar had learned ; so that after 
this his progress was more intelligent, though even 
yet it was necessarily slow and difficult, as his 
books were in the classical language of China, the 
book -language, tantamount almost to a dead lan- 
guage — 2i dead language in living use, as far as 
books are concerned ; but dead in speech. It is 
terse, sententious, recondite, abstruse ; its dktion 
and style are remote from the everyday speech ; 
it is archaic in its form and vocabulary : so that 
explanations and, commentaries are necessary. 

269 



John Chinaman at School 

This memorising was varied by writing lessons, 
which began with the tracing of good characters 
through the thin Chinese paper with the Chinese 
pen, which is really a brush. Further advanced, 
the scholar learned to compose antithetical sen- 
tences, in which each word and idea balanced one 
in the companion sentence. Essays on texts from 
the classics formed a part of a Chinese liberal 
education ; and the making of verse, the counter- 
part of our students writing Latin verse. All these 
taxed the Chinese scholar’s powers of memory and 
initiated him into the learning of his country’s past. 
The result of all this is that a Chinese well- 
educated scholar knows his classics by heart. 
Name a passage, quote a line, or even a word or 
two, and, though there is no index to them, in 
a few minutes he will point it out to you in the 
book, with its context. 

He is thoroughly imbued with all the principles 
which govern the rulers in their government of 
his country, in the Government’s relations to the 
people, as well as those which control the populace 
in their relations and attitude towards the powers 
that be. His thoughts go round in the well-trodden 
circle of the ancients. Modernity is unknown to 
him ; all the marvels of the present age have been 
hitherto beyond the power of his conception. 

But here we must put a full stop ; for the 
ponderous tome of the past will soon be a closed 
book ; a new volume is being opened, and though 
the writing in it is uncertain, yet, as confidence 

270 



Competitive Examinations 

and knowledge is attained, we predict the annals 
which the future will read of the present will be 
more glorious than all the mighty dust-laden 
crowded book -shelves of the past have to show. 

Even before the time of Confucius (b.C. 551), 
education was general in China, and the State 
afforded every encouragement to it ; but it was 
not till long after the Christian era that those in 
authority woke to the idea of employing it as a 
training -ground for the Government official and 
a bulwark to the State ; so that the highest posts, 
short of the throne, were thrown open to any whose 
talents brought them the highest distinctions in 
learning, and whose abilities, when tried, supple- 
mented their mental efforts. In this way it may 
be said that the people in China are governed by 
the people ; and the safety of the country is con- 
served by the large mass of literati, whom this 
system of education produced, and whose interests 
are all on the side of peace and order. 

It was late in China’s long page of history that 
the system of competitive examinations for the Civil 
Service took their origin. A long series of these 
examinations was before the young man, which, 
if sudcessfully passed, opened the gateway for 
immediate or prospective employment in the service 
of the State. It is said that the idea of our Civil 
Service Examinations was taken from the Chinese. 

The old lamps of education in China are now 
being, changed for new ones ; but^ unlike Aladdin’s 
wonderful lamp, the old lamps have lost their 

271 



John Chinaman at School 


power to produce the wonder-working results they 
achieved in the past, when by their light not only 
China was illumined, but the whole Eastern world 
about her as well. To change the metaphor 
slightly, the old dim candles, well made as they 
were in the age which produced them, have nearly 
burned out, and the light is not sufficient for the 
present needs of the nation. They have been 
superseded, not by dim oil lamps, or even by gas, 
but by the brilliant electric light of modern science 
and knowledge. 

The Chinese scholar, equipped as he was with 
all the knowledge deemed essential in the Far East, 
was like Dominie Dobiensis, described in Jacob 
Faithful, who, though he breathed in the present 
age, spent half of his life in antiquity and algebra. 
Substitute the Chinese classics for algebra, and 
you have the man. The greatest stimulus to exer- 
tion for the Chinese student is the example of the 
great Government mandarins going about in almost 
regal state, and surrounded by what appears to 
his eyes as the height of luxury. Every incentive 
to the attainment of such an exalted position is 
paraded before him, and the example of many a 
poor youth who has risen to such a commanding 
height is held up before him. 

But the old order of things is changing. The 
old style of education is ceasing to be the pass- 
port to official employment. Most drastic changes 
are being made ; a regular houleversemeni is 
taking place. All through the Emjpire the old 

272 



The New Learning 


schools are being replaced by the modern one, 
modelled with more or less of similarity on those 
of the West. The old classics arc being relegated 
to a back shelf ; new school-books based on the 
modern knowledge of the Occident are taking their 
places on the desks ; and the scholars are trying 
their best with the aid of their teachers to assimi- 
late all they can from beyond the seas, from the 
once-despised foreigner. The old saying, ex 
oriente lax^ is being reversed, and the light is 
coming ex occidente. One of the oldest nations 
on earth, which for ages was an example and 
teacher of others, is putting aside her pride, and 
beginning to sit at the feet of peoples and nations 
that were undreamt of, and whose progenitors were 
wild, half-naked savages when China was at the 
height of civilisation and refinement as compared 
with them. 

Hundreds of miles inland, away from the coast, 
where the influence of the foreigner is more felt, 
the author came across these modern schools. The 
teachers often are woefully ignorant of this new 
learning that they are attempting to impart to their 
eager scholars ; but there is the desire on the part 
of teachers and taught to learn something, nay, as 
much as possible, of this new world of knowledge 
and learning, and science and literature, to which 
the events of the past few years have opened their 
eyes and shown the advantage of acquiring, and 
which they believe is to result in the uplift of 

China to her former position again in the comity 

273 



John Chinaman at School 

of world powers. Conceit and ignorance have 
hitherto clouded their sight, and pride made them 
disdain the idea of learning from the barbarians 
of the West. The foremost spirits of the nation 
have determined that the reproach of being unable 
to hold their own shall not continue; and as the 
learning and science of the West, they believe, 
has made Europe and America great and power- 
ful, China will learn these same arts and mysteries 
of knowledge, so as to regain her wonted greatness, 
and hold up her head once more, and be respected. 

The lands or buildings of a Buddhist monastery 
are seized, or resumed by the Government, ^ and 
their halls, lands, or funds appropriated for educa- 
tional or other purposes of necessity in connection 
with the forward advance of the nation, without 
a word daring to be said against it — in fact, with 
the approbation of a majority of tlie inhabitants. 
This is one way of meeting the great expenses 
which must necessarily be incurred at the present 
moment in China; another is to demand by a 
powerful Viceroy, from some wealthy institution, 
a contribution for the needs of, say, a Provincial 
Government, without a demur being made. One 
of the late Governors-General of two of the largest 
provinces in South China mulcted a famous and 
well-known temple in the sum of $50,000 (say 
£5,000), with the result that some of their lands 

* Many of the religious establishments are largely indebted to 
Imperial patronage and liberality for their primary existence or 
extension. 

m 



Are the People Educated? 

had to be disposed of, and thus their extensive 
property curtailed. This mandarin required money 
for the many new undertakings that were being 
entered into, amongst them schools of one kind 
and another. What more natural than to obtain 
the requisite funds from an effete institution, whose 
inmates mumbled prayers once a day before im- 
passive images without any benefit to the com- 
munity? The world is progressing, and what is 
useless must go. The support of some hundreds 
of idle monks whose day is past is absurd. Every 
Chinaman of intelligence will tell you that the 
Buddhist monk of the present day is a drone. 

It is a difficult matter to judge of the amount 
of education abroad in the land. Are the people 
all educated or not ? From what has already 
been said, it will be gathered that some at least 
of the boys are unable to remain long enough at 
school to benefit much by the small amount of 
instruction they have received. It is only the 
well-to-do, as a rule, that are fairly well educated, 
according to the standards of the past, which, as 
we have seen, arc not well adapted to prepare them 
for the world of the present day. 

Thousands and millions of boys have to leave 
school before they can read intelligently the 
difficult Chinese language: they go out to earn 
their daily rice, with a smattering of the Chinese 
character. Take up a book, and they can pick 
up words here and there which they know; but 
this knowledge is not sufficient to enable them to 

275 



John Chinaman at School 

understand thoroughly what they see before them. 
To many, the result of some years of study is that 
a simple book is understood more or less, but 
it must be written in a most easy style. Even with 
a plain style it often happens that many passages 
and words must be passed over without more than 
a guess at their meaning, and often not even that. 

Schools have abounded all over the Empire y 
every village has at least one; but years of study 
are required to ground even a Chinese boy .in 
the elements of his own language, though, as has 
been already said, Chinese is the only langua:ge 
learned, and all his attention is devoted to it alone, 
and, if he wishes to be well educated, all his 
energies must be concentrated on it solely for ten 
or twenty years of his life. Sooner or later this 
beautiful but cumbrous language will have to burst 
its bonds of antiquity and appear afresh in an 
alphabetical form. 

There is an eagerness for education which it 
would be difficult to find surpassed by any nation 
under heaven. Society is divided into four classes, 
and scholars head the list, to be followed by 
farmers, labourers, and lastly merchants. The 
apotheosis of the scholar is the mandarin, and 
the schoolmaster is most highly honoured, though 
in the very depths of abject poverty. The teach- 
ing profession, instead of being one to be despised, 
is one of the highest in China. 

In the scheme of education which has prevailed 
in China, the female element may be left out of 

276 



Progress 


calculation, for hitherto it has been almost a 
negligible quantity. Octasionally one comes across 
a woman who can rea'd^ but it is a rare occurrence. 
During the twenty-five to thirty years which the 
author spent in law Courts in China it was indeed 
seldom for him to come across a woman who could 
sign her name to an affidavit, and when one was 
able to do it, it was exceptional if such a one 
could do it otherwise than most laboriously. 

Girls’ schools are now being widely established. 
Notable cases of educated women have their 
exploits emblazoned on the grand roll of Chinese 
worthies, notwithstanding all the diffiiCulties in their 
way, and have been esteemed on that account. 
Now a grand future is opening out not only for 
the boys but the girls in China. 

The number who have taken the B.A. degree 
in China for some years past amounts to 14,000, 
and it has been estimated that there are 700,000 
Chinese graduates now living in that so-called 
Land of Literature and Learning. These form a 
nucleus round which a large circle of the educated 
cluster. Some have estimated the educated class 
in China as 15,000,000. This is far too small 
an estimate. Different results would be obtained 
even by most extended inquiries, as answers most 
dissimilar would be given by different men in 
different parts of the Empire and in town or 
country. If, as in England' and other European 
countries, books were written in the speech of 
the people, education would not be such a very 

277 T 



John Chinaman at School 

'difficult thing as it has been in China. Ho^w 
greatly the difficulties of education in our land 
would be increased, difficult enough as they are 
now, if all the children’s books at school were 
written in the language of Chaucer! 


278 



CHAPTER XXII 


John Chinaman Out of Doors 

J OHN CHINAMAN lives very much out of 
doors. Before the open-air craze infected 
England he had practised it for thousands of 
years. When he is indoors he is generally out 
of doors ; for the houses are open all through 
their interiors, paved courts open to the sky alter- 
nating with the main buildings. Thus the open 
door has prevailed throughout the Empire, though 
the outer door was shut to outsiders, and the 
closed door was presented to foreign nations. 
Closed doors on the street front are often the 
order of the day, though this by no means excludes 
the fresh air from large mansions. 

In the south all the shops have an open front, 
such as the English greengrocer often displays. 
In the coldest weather the shopman sits at his 
counter the livelong day, exposed to every wind of 
heaven that blows. This living so much in the open 
air doubtless neutralises to a large extent the in- 
sanitary conditions prevalent. The mild condition 

279 



John Chinaman Out of Doors 

of the weather during the greater part of the 
year also fosters al fresco meals and an open-air 
life. 

To make up for this free open life during the 
day, John Chinaman shuts himself up at night in 
the closest atmosphere possible in cabin or bed- 
ropm, and in cold weather rolls himself up in a 
cotton quilt, head and feet and body, till he looks 
like a corpse. How he manages to breathe in 
this bundled-up condition is a mystery ; but he 
seems to survive all right, and be none the worse 
for it. 

In the hot summer nights many a house empties 
the sleepers out of doors — at least as far as regards 
the men-folk. Many of them lie in t^^e streets on 
boards or mats or bamboo-beds. Some mount 
to the roofs and sleep on the drying-stages which 
most of the houses have for drying clothes, or for 
sunning vegetables of one sort or another. Occa- 
sionally, like Eutychus of old, one heavy with sleep 
may descend more rapidly than safely (such a 
thing has been known), and sleep his last sleep 
with no Apostle Paul to waken him out of it. 

On certain days, such as the Dragon Boat Feast, 
the whole family of John Chinaman goes out of 
doors, and the river-bank is lined with spectators 
to see the boat-races. Father, mother, sons, and 
daughters, together with the slave -girls conveying 
pipes for the ladies to smoke and also carrying 
the babies, are the happiest of the happy throng. 

On the annual Tomb-Worshipping Day there 
280 




A CHINESE CROWD AT AN OUT-OF-DOORS THEATRE. 




Country Excursions 

is a regular exodus into the country. Old and 
young gather round the family tombs on the hill- 
sides outside the city walls. After the ceremonial 
genuflections and offerings of pork and fowl and 
other eatables, the burning of incense and candles, 
and the adding of a turf on to the former years' 
sods on the mound over the dead, the family picnic 
in the open. 

Men will go to a monastery in some of the 
beautiful hill countries within a short journey of 
some of China’s teeming cities and spend some 
time in the cool air, combining religious exercises 
with a summer outing. There are suites of apart- 
ments for the use of such devotees of Nature and 
the gods. Ladies also avail themselves of these 
opportunities to go into retreat. 

An immense amount of travelling goes on in 
China, principally, almost entirely, for business 
purposes; and day’s trips, or long journeys even, 
are taken for purchases or sales of goods and 
visits to markets. In all of these ways John China- 
man manages to get a good share of fresh air 
without definitely setting forth for that purpose. 

John Chinaman and his womenkind are keenly 
interested in theatricals, and often the theatre is but 
an open shed, where performances will go on for 
days and nights in succession, one play following 
on the heel of another with scarce an intermission. 
The journey by road or boat from the country- 
side around to the centre of attraction, where a 
god’s birthday starts the theatricals, gives a 

281 



John Chinaman Out of Doors 


good outing to the natives of the surrounding 
parts . 

Much of the buying and selling and marketing, 
instead of being carried on indoors and in roofed- 
over buildings, is done just outside the front door. 
There is no need to go shopping, for the shops 
come to you ; at least, the street -hawkers pass 
along in almost constant succession. Especially 
is this the case with those selling food at meal- 
times. Now it is a silk-floss man with his two 
dark- wood cupboards, like mamtnoth ar moires^ but 
a; mass of drawers, in which, as he opens them, 
the richest gleams of soft silk glint in the glorious 
sunlight with golden hues and all the colour of 
the rainbow. Soberer shades of braid and all 
the many other etceteras which aro attendant on 
a lady’s wardrobe are to be found nestled here 
and there in his drawers. 

The mistress and her maids gather round him, 
as he discloses his treasures, and the slave-girls 
also admire, while the serving-women handle and 
advise and give their op'inion on the merits and 
demerits of his stock, with the freedom which 
the Oriental household allows to all its inmates, 
however humble they be. Bangles, rings, 
bracelets, odds and ends of silk -floss, all care- 
fully rearranged in their receptacles, he shoulders 
his burden, and goes down the street lightened 
by a few ounces, while his purse is heavier by 
a few cash. Twirling his rattle this chapman dis- 
appears . 


282 



Food Hawkers 


There is no need to go round to the grocer’s 
at the corner, or to the more distant oil-shop, to 
buy oil, as here comes the oil -man with his dark- 
brown tubs, full of the peanut-oil with wihich 
nearly all the Chinese cooking is accomplished. 
The same oil served in the tiny saucer lamps as an 
illuminant before the introduction of kerosene. 

Next comes a fish-seller with great fat carp 
lying alive in their ovm element in his circular, 
flat, shallow wo,oden tubs, or it may be a species 
of herrings, which, being smaller, are able to splash 
about in the water. Or the fishmonger may have 
a load of white rice-fish, white translucent little 
mites with two tiny black specks for eyes. If 
none of these are to: the taste of the would-be 
diner, then let him wait a few minutes, and some 
other kinds of pond or fresh-water fish will come 
along, heralded by the street cry of the vendors. 
If great tench are what you want, a. large fish 
has already been cut up, and is lying on the basket- 
tray this man carries as well as a tub. It is 
cut right down along the back-bone, and the red 
blood is smeared all over the white flesh of the 
fish. 

His steelyards are with him, as with all the 
hawkers, and he will gladly weigh the exact 
quantity you want, or if it is a live fish he will 
hook him up by the gills and let you know his 
weight, while the poor fish is floundering and 
quivering suspended in the air, and then, if suit- 
able, he will scale and cut it open for you, all on 

283 



John Chinaman Out of Doors 


the Street. But if it is a tasty piece of salt -fish 
you want, the salt -fish man with his sun-dried 
fish in his huge basket-ware carriers will supply 
your wants with his stock in the same way at 
your very door. 

Now that the fish is provided for breakfast or 
dinner, what about vegetables? They are also 
forthcoming in the same way, each peripatetic 
vendor of these often having but one kind, though 
sometimes several sorts are found in the baskets 
of the man. They are carried in the way usual 
for bearing loads in China, viz., in two baskets 
suspended from the ends of the carrying-pole or 
bamboo, which latter is laid across the shoulder, 
and changed from one shoulder to the other when 
the man is tired. The bearers of these and other 
burdens often have callosities and great lumps 
on the shoulders from the constant loads they 
bear — loads greater, one would suppose at times, 
than mortal flesh could stand. 

Almost everything John Chinaman needs can 
thus be bought on the streets. Not only the 
necessities but tasty luxuries as well — sugar-cane, 
oranges, water-melons, all kinds of fruits, sweet- 
meats, pickles. A perambulating soup-kitchen will 
occasionally pass. The owner announces his 
arrival by clapping two bits of bamboo together. 
Occasionally a travelling lending-library will come 
down the street, with well-stocked bamboo book- 
shelves, Of course its staple commodities are 
novels, and in a well-to-do family there may be 

284 



Shopping 


one or two of the women -folk with a sufficient 
knowledge of the characters to be able to read 
them. 

All this out-of-doots sale of goods in the street 
and on your doorstep does not mean that there 
are no shops or stalls. There are an immense 
number of them ; and it is an almost out-of-door 
life that the shopkeepers live. As a rule thtere 
are, as we have said, no shop-fronts, they 

are not closed in, though there are a few pre- 
monitory symptoms of that coming. The whole 
front of the shop is open to the street. 

The whole contents of the shop hanging on 
walls or displayed on shelves, or, in the case of 
the more valuable wares in glass cases, are visible 
to you (except in the case of some kinds of goods) 
as you pass along the street ; for windows are 
cpnspicuous by their absence. Even the process 
of manufacture is being carried on coram publico, 
as, for instance, with gold and silversmiths. 

All the bargaining that goes on between 
customer and shopman is patent to the passer- 
by in the street, and, if you are a foreigner, a 
little crowd will gather to hear you beating down 
the price . 

If you have been long enough in China, you 
will have learned how to get your bargains at a 
reasonable price, and learned from watching wily 
John Chinaman at this work, which is a delight 
to him. 

With a: casual air he stops and asks what the 
285 



John Chinaman Out of Doors 


shopman is willing' to sell this article for, to be 
told a figure ridiculously high, perhaps twice 
what it is worth. He meets this, after having- 
pointed out some defects, or the low quality of 
the goods, by offering considerably less than its 
value. (“ It is naught, it is naught [it is worth- 
less], saith the buyer ; but when he is gone his 
way, then he boasteth.” — Prov. xx, 14.) 

Each side raises Oir lowers its prices, and so 
the higgling goes on till John Chinaman finally 
retreats into the street, if he is not there already, 
as if to leave such high-priced goods alone, while 
the solicitous shopman follows him to the very 
door, if not out of doors, as he rapidly reduces 
his terms, in the hope of bringing his prospective 
customer back. 

Walks for the sake of walking, when we walk 
along the streets or roads, swinging our arms 
and stepping out with vigour and drinking in the 
fresh air, are nearly unknown. Chinese men will 
sometimes say, not, “ Let’s go for a walk,” but, 
‘‘ Let’s walk along the street.” This is almost 
as much to see the sights in the streets as for 
exercise. Occasionally they may be seen saunter- 
ing along a country road near a city ; but their 
whole attitude and bearing is as far from our idea 
of iwhat a walk is as England is from China. 
An Englishman takes his dog out for a walk. 
A Chinaman would never think of a canine com- 
panion walking along the road with him ; but 
he will take his caged lark out into the open 

286 




Amusements 


to get the air. He carries the cage upright on 
his palm or hand, and sets it down in the grass, 
while he stands and enjoys the brisk, lively 
creature’s joy, or crouches down on his haunches 
beside the cage. 

In the hot summer evenings the river- or 
harbour -side may be haunted by crowds more or 
less in deshabille to cool themselves, while on 
the drying-stages on the house -roofs others are 
seeking a breath of air. 

At certain seasons of the year a ring will be 
formed, and the heels, sides, and soles of the 
shoes be used to kick the shuttlecock by men, 
while boys watch, or try their prentice, not hands, 
but feet, at attempts more or less successful to 
do the same. Kites are also flown by men as 
well as by boys. What will soon be a thing of 
the past is the archery indulged in by the aspirant 
candidate for military commands, as well as 
the peculiar athletic exercises carried on by 
them. 

The Chinese ladies do not get much of this 
out-of-door existence. Very few are to be seen 
in the streets. If they venture out, and are young 
and pretty, they expose themselves to the jeers 
of the loafers, who make insulting remarks about 
them. When paying a social call or on a visit 
to a temple, &c., the proper thing is to go in a 
sedan-chair, and- thus, with blinds let down, 
the lady is almost invisible to the crowd through 
which she rapidly passes, safe from insult with 

287 



John Chinaman Out of Doors 


hen woman -servant or two rapidly trotting behind 
her. 

Wealthy gentlemen are very fond of what are 
called gardens laid out in their grounds or Jn the 
suburbs, and here the ladies of the family may 
disport themselves. There are no flower-beds, 
almost all the plants being in ornamental pots 
of various shapes and designs. Some flowering 
trees are rooted in the ground. Even with or 
without a garden, plants will be found in pots 
or ornamental stands in the courtyards. The 
nearest approach to flower-beds is the enclosing 
against a wall of a bank, or trench rather, of 
earth, which is raised above the ground by a 
low wall on the outside. This wall is mainly 
formed of open-work ornamented glazed foot- 
square tiles. In the soil placed within these large 
sort of troughs, plants are grown. Bamboos droop 
like lovely Prince of Wales feathers, while plan- 
tain or banana-trees flap their enormous long and 
broad leaves in the breeze, if any reaches them 
in these enclosed and secluded spots. A garden 
is not complete in China without a pond, or a 
succession of them. Once provided, it or they are 
immediately filled up with the large peltate leaves 
of the lotus, which rise a little above the surface of 
the water, each as large as a small tea-tray. 
Long, rambling bridges lead to little summer- 
houses perched up in the centre of the water. 
In other parts one comes across rock -work 
of the most marvellous construction, adding 

28S 




Private Gardens 

not a little to the bizarre aspect of the whole 

place. 

Kiosks and summer-houses are dotted about, 
and rockeries of artificial stone-work, grotesque 
in their miniature precipitous heights, arrest one’s 
steps. The paths are lined with rows of plants 
in pots on high glazed earthenware stands. At 
times you pass between two rows of boxwood in 
these pots, trained into the shape of birds, animals, 
and men, the heads and hands in earthenware stuck 
on to the plants. A private stage may be found, 
where a theatrical troupe, hired for the occasion, 
will perform before the family and friends. Lpw 
walls to place pots of flowers on, built up of 
open-work green glazed foot-square tiles, add a 
piquancy to these private grounds. Large build- 
ings will be found here and there ready for a 
picnic. Chinese art has supplied blackwood furni- 
ture, paintings, geometrical open-work French 
doors, three-legged stools, the tops a large mass 
of rock, uncut or but little trimmed, smooth and 
deliciously cool on a broiling hot summer’s day. 
Besides all the above there may be long cloister- 
like corridors, on the walls of which there will 
be seen almost endless rubbings of classical 
writings, or of the elegant caligr'aphy of some 
master-hand. 

Amidst such congenial scenes the Chinese 
gentleman saunters, enjoying to the full the varied 
objects. His wives and children will wander 
around with a whole retinue of servants and 

289 



John Chinaman Out of Doors 

domestic slave-girls^, when no men-folk are about, 
taking their pleasure in a quieter way, except for 
the clatter of tongues. The small-fe.eted ladies 
lean on the shoulder of dependants, as they 
hobble along, their crippled state prieventing any- 
thing in the way of vigorous exercise, and the 
traditions of the race being alsoi against violent 
motion, unless necessity demands it. 

There is one type of outdoor attraction which 
draws John Chinaman out of doors by the hundreds 
and thousands, and it is very similar in its out- 
come to the pageants which are all the rage in 
England at the present time ; but the fashion in 
China is probably century-old. Under the name 
of processions there is almost always something 
of the kind going on. Every chance of having 
one is seized on in China, whether; it be in con- 
nection with religious festivities, a marriage, a 
funeral, or official comings and goings. Let us 
begin with some of the smaller ones. One of the 
saddest is that that takes the criminals to the 
execution ground, otherwise used as a potter’s 
field. The street-gates, consisting of upright 
bars fixed into sockets in a granite slab across 
the street, are nearly closed. The chief things 
that one notices are the half -stupefied, huddled- 
up human objects, each carried in a basket 
like animals. The whole business is soon over, 
and the clay furnaces are brought out again 
on the potter’s field to dry in the sun. A 
few corpses, minus the head, are, carried off for 

290 



street Sights 


interment^ and except for one of thdse objects 
under a JXi\aX^ land the blood-stained ground, nothing 
is left to show what has taken place. 

Occasionally one may come suddenly in one of 
the narrow alleys upon a curious little cavalcade 
rapidly passing along, the chief feature in which 
is the wretched thief, who is receiving his punish- 
ment out of doors, and being whipped through the 
streets. Particulars of his crime are written out 
and exhibited, so that all may know. A gong 
is a most important part of this procession^ and 
at each beat of it down comes the whip on the 
thief’s back. As soon a,s all the streets of the 
ward in which the theft took place ate gone 
through the unfortunate man is let gp> glad to 
escape from the clutches of the law. 

Still out of doors are some of the other punish- 
ments, though not rising to the dignity of a pro- 
cession, such, for instance, as the wearing of the 
cangae, or wooden collar, out in the streets, or 
at the gate of some court. The victim is unable 
to feed himself, as the framework his neck is 
enclosed in prevents his putting his hands up to 
his mouth. 

No high official goes out of his yamSn, or official 
residence, without a: procession. The Chinese are 
economical in their salutes, but they have them 
often. Three reports signal the coming out of 
the “ great man.” In our lands such an occasion 
would be shorn down to its lowest p-Ossible limits. 
A grand carriage .or two with gorgeous footmen 

291 



John Chinaman Out of Doors 

and coachmen, and voild tout; but the stately 
booming gong has to herald the magnate’s pro- 
gress, as the beater gives regular blows on it, 
and lets them vibrate and fill the whole air with 
their waves of sound. The insignia of his rank 
and the posts he has held are in large cha^racters 
on wooden tablets. A big official umbrella is 
carried before him, fully spread, akin to the 
haldacchino of Italy ; a monster fan on a pole, 
too \ then his lictors rattling iron chains, and 
some attendants behind him on ponies. A quiet, 
gaping crowd which lines both sides of the streets 
but does not move or raise a sound, stares silently 
on one of their rulers, who has risen from their 
ranks to this exalted position in his eight-bearer 
sedan-chair. 

Marriage and funeral processions are made 
little of in England, and the show, except in 
military ones, is very tame and commonplace. 
But in China before the wedding itself there are 
two or three preliminary small processions, when 
the presents are being exchanged between the 
parties and the bride’s trousseau is being sent. In 
the latter case every article which can be is painted 
a bright red — the colour of joy and rejoicing — and 
tables and chairs, clothes-horse, basin -stand, and 
all the necessary articles for housekeeping, are 
paraded through the streets, little ragamuffin boys 
carrying them, or not much cleaner men bearing 
them on their shoulders or in stands or suspended 
from poles. 


292 



Processional Glories 


Almost every procession is heralded with two 
gigantic globular lanterns, on poles, resting on 
the shoulders, and high above the heads of all. 
In a grand procession, lanterns of different kinds 
come in here and there in its course, a batch of 
half a dozen or a dozen or more, glass and finely 
ornamented, sometimes horn ones. But the two 
in front of the procession are often made of 
bamboo-splints and oiled paper with large 
characters on them'. In a wedding procession 
these characters represent the surname of the 
person being married. Then bands of musicians 
are interspersed through the procession, rending 
the air with their noisy, harsh tones — discordant 
sopnds to our ears— of clashing cymbals, banging, 
booming gongs, clicking drums, shrill flageolets, 
flutes, and guitars ; for both string bands and wind 
instruments appear in these grand ambulations 
through the streets. Numerous litters or stands 
with canopied roofs, or open to the sky, have 
ornaments on them. 

In the case of a wedding procession, one has 
a number of sugar ornaments, in the shape of 
animals and different things, toothsome objects 
afterwards for the children. Large sum's of money 
are spent on this paraphernalia ; but the most 
important thing of all is the large red sedan-chair 
in which the poor little bride is shut up close. 
It is a marvel of Chinese art, profusely carved 
and tastefully adorned with myriads of kingfisher’s’ 
feathers. On a hot summer’s day it must be 

293 o 



John Chinaman Out of Doors 


perfectly suffocating inside it, and a poor bride 
has been dromied befor'e now when crossing a 
river from the boat having capsized with the heavy 
chair aboard. If the families are well-to-do, such 
a procession is no mean affair, and articles by the 
score will appear in this strange peregrination, 
requiring hundreds of coolies to carry them 
through the crowded streets, to* the delight of all. 
The Chinese often impoverish themselves over their 
marriages. 

Funeral processions, again, can be grand affairs, 
taking an hour to pass a given spot. The shrill 
clarionets pipe forth their dirge ; but it requires 
a trained ear, which few Westerners can attain, 
to know the difference between this and the joyous 
notes of the marriage strains. Two enormous 
mourning lanterns, of course, lead the way borne 
aloft ; bands of musicians perform ; a sedan-chair 
contains a conventional portrait of the deceased ; 
a kind of portable altar is borne before the coffin, 
with a tablet and candles with sticks of incense, 
their tiny points glowing with light. 

If a man had many friends, a prominent feature 
is the number of large oblong banners, yards wide 
and many yards high, in mourning colour's— purple, 
and blue, &c., containing suitable inscriptions 
which take the place that wreaths occupy with 
us. The huge coffin at last appears, carried by 
eight, sixteen, or more coolies, sometimes on a 
catafalque, but with a red cloth thrown over it. 
And then comes the saddest sight of all— the 

294 




THE DRAGON PROCESSION. 


Idol Processions 


mourners, clothed in coarse hempen mockery of 
wearing apparel, with bands of the same on their 
heads, holding staves with white paper round them 
in their hands ; and the women-folk wailing the 
dead in the most forlorn and eerie manner. Paper 
imitation money is scattered on the way along 
the roads, to keep the ghosts from troubling the 
living or the dead, as the pilgrimage wends its way 
and finally climbs some desolate hill-side, where 
on some high ridge or sloping height the grave 
is placed. 

But the occasion of some idol festival of a 
god, when the image is taken out for a proces- 
sion with the insignia of official rank and a stand 
with charms from his temple, may be made into 
a fine affair with sufficient subscriptions. In times 
of epidemic thousands will be spent to- get up 
one of the grandest of these processions. Then 
appear the most magnificent costumes, lovely in 
the richness of their colour, and beautiful, gorgeous 
screens of embroidery of kingfishers’ feathers and 
glass ; covered stands, with curios and eatables ; 
hundreds of bannerets ; several idols in their 
shrines, with their retinues, and girls by the score 
riding -on ponies and representing historical 
cha:racters ; tableaux vivants of children and girls, 
beautifully dressed in gorgeous costumes, carried 
on stands representing scenes in past ages of 
China’s long and interesting story ; and finally, 
maybe, a gigantic dragon or two made of cloth 
and tinsel and spangles, a hundred or more feet 

29s 



Jolm Chinaman Out of Doors 


in length, prancing about, supported by scores 
upon scores of strong and healthy young men, 
whose legs only are visible beneath the flowing 
silk and spangles which form the body ‘of the 
great monster. 

A chapter out of fairyland is revealed when a 
lantern-procession is seen. Tens upon tens of 
gigantic fishes made of gauze illuminated with 
lights inside and lanterns and transparencies 
innumerable is a sight not to be forgotten. 


296 



CHAPTER XXIII 


John Chinaman Indoors 

N ot only when John Chinaman is indoors is he 
almost out of doors, but when out of doors 
his streets are again often so shaded' with matting 
and boards, to shut out the fierce sun, that he 
might as well be indoors. When be goes into his 
house, if it is of any size, and not a mere hovel, 
he is out of doors again ; for a Chinese house, 
unless it be the living-plalc'e of the very poorest, 
is but a multiplicity of houses strung together, one 
may say, and stretched out as long as his purse- 
strings will allow, and almost as broad as circum- 
stances permit. John Bull piles storey on storey, 
though he has not yet attained to the sky-scraper 
heights of Brother Jonathan ; but John Chinaman 
spreads himself out, and not content with scattering 
his buildings over the ground, he will often bring 
a garden or two within the precincts of his 
mansion. If he has no room for that, he will be 
satisfied with rock -work, and instead of parterres 
and plots of flowers, a style of gardening he does 

297 



John Chinaman Indoors 

not understand, he will have a fruit garden of 
oranges growing in flower-pots, and flowers bloom- 
ing all the year round in similar portable 
substitutes for plots, which, when the blooms are 
past, can be carried away by the florist, and re- 
placed with seasonable plants bursting into bud 
and afflorescence. Thus within-doors John China- 
man has an ever -circulating garden. 

A mansion modestly hides itself behind a' plain 
brick wall, just as a plain man’s house makes no 
show. In the one ease the bricks may be of a 
better quality and nt'ore neatly pointed than those 
of the poor man’s abode ; the double door being 
of good hard-wood and more prettily decorated 
than the humble dwelling. It may be safer in the 
East to shelter oneself frorpi the public view ; a 
flaunting of one’s wealth is not always advisable, 
lest possibly forced contributions be demanded;, 
and one’s magnificence suffer at the expense of 
one’s unwilling munificence. 

The streets that the houses front on are mostly 
narrow, and paved with longitudinal slabs of granite 
or other stone. Two or three steps of the same stone, 
as long as the front of the house, but shallow in 
height, and which almost form a part of the street, 
are placed in front. No garden or railings divide 
it from,' the roadway. Two enormous rotund 
lanterns generally hang one on each side of the 
door, especially on the first and fifteenth iof the 
month.. These swell out in proportion to the great- 
ness of. the master’s position, till often ^ Sir John 

298 



street Inscriptions 

Falstaff could hide in one, provided he could get 
in through the top or bottom^ and if the lantern, 
made of bamboo strips and oiled paper, were 
strong enough to hold him'. These are gaily 
painted with scarlet, and the occupant’s name is 
put in black characters on them'. 

Over the doorway, in the centre, is an elongated 
round lantern, much smaller, or a small version 
of the big ones, with the word “ God,” or “ Spirit,” 
in large character on it, and “ Reverence ” in small 
character. These are not necessarily always 
lighted at night, as they are more for show than 
brilliance. Their brilliance is in thC paint, when 
newly put up. Once suspended, they are allowed 
to hang, the sport of wind and rain, as they lightly 
sway about with every gust ; so tliat ere long 
they become tom and shabby, their skeleton frame- 
work showing through their surface, tattered and 
worn. The grey-blue brick wall is relieved by 
two bright red strips of paper, pasted on the wall 
down each side of the door, with antithetical sen- 
tences written on them!. Over the doorway is 
another piece, often with the good wish that “ The 
Five Blessings may descend on this door,” or a 
similar felicitous phras:e ; or, sometimes only five 
pieces pf red oblong paper perforated in strips, 
which are supposed tp convey the same wish.; 

Has the tenant obtained a degree at tfiC 
examinations? Then his literary title is set forth 
in black characters on a scarlet board hung over 
the door. Should his friends attain a like dis-i 

299 



John Chinaman Indoors 


tinction, the notices of it sent to him are 
pasted on the outside wall of his house, like great 
advertisements a yard or two long and two or 
three feet in width. The colour of the paper and 
that of the ink varies according to the degree 
taken. Sometimes a small wooden tablet is hupg 
at the side of the door, or a piece of paper is 
pasted up with the occupant’s surname on it. 

At the New Year, or rather just before, in 
preparation for it, there is a scrubbing and a 
washing outdoors and in. If a house was never, 
clean before, it is fairly clean now, except in the 
dark corners. All the scraps of paper flapping 
about on the outside wall, as mentioned above, are 
torn down and fresh put up, ready for the great 
day of the year. Everything looks spick-and-span. 
But, alas ! many a house will appear in mourning 
even at this most festive and joyous time. At any 
other season of the year, if a death occurs, the 
red papers are torn down, and white ones pasted 
up in their stead for deep mourning, to be replaced 
later by blue ones for half -mourning. 

At such a time the gay -coloured lanterns are out 
of place, so mourning ones are hung up. A pecu- 
liarly shaped ornament is hung over the door, 
draped in white, and its rods covered with white. 
A mat-shed is put up, and rises above the narrow 
street. A white paper stork is hoisted high on a 
bamboo pole, with a gigantic sort of tassel of 
white paper with streamers. A long funereal in- 
scription on white paper with a peculiar border 

300 



Mourning Symbols 

of colours, yards and yards in length and a yard 
or two in height, is pasted up on the outer wall of 
the house, and protected from the weather by a 
mat roof over it. 

As we have already said, white is deep mourning, 
and the chief mourners at a funeral follow the 
cofSn clothed in the coarsest hempen unbleached 
cloth of an almost yellow hue, and of the loosest 
texture imaginable. Though blue is half-moum- 
ing, strange to say blue clothing is not mourning at 
all, or the whole nation nearly would be in mourn- 
ing. Blue cord braided into the end of the queue 
denotes slight mourning, and white deep. The 
shoes also show that a man is in mourning, and 
some of the ornaments in a woman’s hair. 

The main door of a Chinese house is two-leaved, 
m'assive and large, and of hard-wood in good 
mansions ; outside it are a pair of lighter doors, 
which only reach half or two -thirds of the way 
up. A small railing runs along the top of these 
doors, and a rattan or bamboo hoop goes over 
the jutting-up portions, at the edges of the two 
little doors, and holds them together, and there is 
a wooden bolt as well. The main doors have two 
large wooden bolts. Sometimes, usually in large 
mercantile houses, a framework of wooden bars 
can be shot back and forward as a door. 

Stepping inside a high threshold, one finds one- 
self within what is simply an entrance-hall ; but 
it is placed athwart the house, and does not run 
up, into the house, as with us. It is under a 

301 



John Chinaman Indoors 

separate sntall roof. On one side will be found 
a shrine to some god ; it may be simply a piece 
of red paper with some deity’s name on it, and 
incense is burned twice a day before it. 

At one side may be found the gate-keeper’s 
lodge or room', if the family is in such a position 
as to warrant the keeping of such an important 
individual. There is no door-bell or knocker at 
the door. More primitive styles are necessary to 
attract the attention of the inmates, if there is no 
porter : and these are various— rattling the door, 
banging it with umbrella or, fist, or slapping it 
with flat of band, and shouting, must at times all 
be resorted to. The delay is often considerable, 
and awkward in heavy rain. 

Facing one as one enters the front door, and 
but a few steps further on, a row of tall double- 
leaved doors stretches across the way. The doors, 
it may be remarked, have m'ost primitive old- 
world hinges, such as were used in our. land in 
bygone times. A stick projects at top iand bottom 
of door and works in a hole made for it in stone 
or wood let into the floor, and in a: beam at top. 
These wooden projections set in sockets act very 
well in the place of hinges. 

When one has penetrated thus far into a Chinese 
mansion, one begins to understand the construction 
of Chinese houses. Roof follows roof in succession, 
with open paved courtyards between. Side- 
cloisters on each side of the courtyards join the 
main bpildings. These buildings, linked loosely 

302 



Within the House 


on to one another, may number three or four, 
or they may run to half a dozen or more. To 
this central range of buildings in a large mansion, 
auxiliary ranges of similar structure may be linked 
on, arranged in the same manner alongside, and 
connected by a doorway. 

Gardens in a large house will be found in these 
side regions ; but most of the flowers are in flower- 
pots. There are but few windows opening out of 
doors in Chinese houses. The style of construction 
does not lend itself readily to their free adoption, 
and the prejudices due to fung-shui hinder their 
acceptance, except on the frontage of rivers and 
on to the intervening spaces — the interior court- 
yards between the different roofs of a ihohse. Thdse 
numerous open spaces or paved courtyards, in the 
interiors of houses, especially in large houses, take 
the place of outer windows to a great extent, as 
a row of windows will open on to them from the 
apper stories of the different main buildings, which 
are separated by them and joined together by side- 
galleries. The great part of the dwelling is on 
the ground floor, though there will be in some of 
the buildings some accommodation on a second 
storey, to which a steep staircase gives access . The 
floors on the upper storey are of boards ; buit on 
the ground floor generally of foot-square, semi- 
porous red tiles an inch thick. These easily break, 
and are damp, and in poor, and old houses they 
are not mtich better, than mud floors. Thin marble 
tiles about the same size are sometimes seen.. 

303 



John Chinaman Indoors 


The foundations of the house are often of 
granite^ the walls of a bluish-grey brick, and the 
roof very generally of thin red pan and roll tiles 
in alternate rows. In good houses a second layer 
of tiles is laid over the firsts and even a third is 
not unknown. 

In the abodes of the rich, much elegance may 
be seen. Large pen-and-ink sketches, usually un- 
framed, hang as a centre-piece, or a number of 
them, sometimes framed, if smaller, are hung round 
the walls ; curios are seen and a vase or tWp. 
Though the Chinese do not attain the simplicity 
of the Japanese in the adornment of their apart- 
ments, yet there is not the overloading of a room 
with brie -k -brae, of which there is often too much 
in the West. 

There may be elegance, but there is a lack of 
comfort in the large barn-like halls which serve 
for reception-rooms. There are large halls, but 
often stuffy little rooms partitioned off for bed- 
rooms : spaciousness in one part, confinement in 
the other. There are no ceilings, or but seldom, 
though the roof -beams in a good house will be 
painted, and the inside surface of the roof -tiling 
whitewashed. Thete is a scarcity of floor coverings 
in the way of carpets or rugs. There are no fire- 
places or stoves ; so the inntates go shivering about 
on their carpetless tiled floors with doors open on 
to the open courtyard. Clothes are piled on, to 
keep out the cold in winter ; so that the thin man 
becomes apparently stout, and the little baby is 

304 




THE GUEST HALL IN A CHINESE GENTLEMAN’S HOUSE, HONG KONG. 


Furniture 


almost as broad as long. Brass foot -warmers and 

hand-warmers are used by some to keep these 
extremities of the body warm, A live cake or two of 
charcoal-dust is buried in the ashes in them, and 
the heat thus conserved lasts for several hours. 
It follows as a matter of course that there is an 
absence of chimneys. A few may be seen, and 
more are yearly appearing over the new manu- 
factories necessitated by the adoption of Western 
money, electricity, water-works, &c. 

In the courtyards and about the house will 
often be found numerous stools, which form pretty 
accessions to the meagre and primitive Chinese 
furniture. There ntay also be large, square, high 
stools of Chinese ebony, with marble tops. Marble- 
topped tables are scattered in different rooms. 
Large hard couches, nearly as broad as long, are 
seen at the top of the room, ready for the opium- 
smoker, with all the accessories of the seductive 
vice. Long paper scrolls with inscriptions hang 
on the walls, if pictures do not already take up 
the space. Sometimes besides the centre-piece, 
already mentioned, a few pen-and-ink sketches, 
framed and glazed, are seen, though when in the 
shape of kakemonocs they simply hang open on 
the wall. Ornamental lanterns in glass and ebony 
or silk gauze hang about. There is, however, not 
a domfortable sofa in the whole establishment 
of rambling rooms, and one may wander through 
the whole straggling; congeries of buildings and not 
fiitd an easy arm-chair. The only approach to 

305 



John Chinaman Indoors 

comfort is sometimes found in a leather folding- 
chair like our ship-chairs. The poet Cowper’s 
description of the furniture of our forefathers 
might be written to-day of these articles of Chinese 
furniture : — 

“Restless was the chair; the back erect 
Distressed the weary loins, that felt no ease.” 

And his description of one of the kinds of stools 
we have already mentioned is also apt : — 

“On three legs 

Upborne they stood. Three legs upholding firm 

A massy stone.” 

According to our ideas, Chinese houses are but 
scantily furnished. Down both sides of a recep- 
tion-room, to flank the opium couch or bed at the 
top, will be seen two rows of chairs of Chinese 
black ebony, with si high stool -like table in two 
storeys between each second chair and the first 
of the next couple. These little tables are 
conveniently at hand to put cups of tea on, 
or the hookah-like pipe in the intervals of 
smoking. 

Few have had the privilege of living in a purely 
native house and being in the native household 
as one of the inmhtes ; for East is East and West 
is West, and, leaving all matters of food and sanita- 
tion out of the question, the greatest forbearance is 
needed on both sides not to tread on each other’s 

306 



Business Life 


corns and shock each other’s ideas of decorum and 
politeness. Most Europeans would put a question 
mark after the word “ privilege ” above, unless 
they really wished to get an insight into the inner 
life of a Chinese home, and were prepared to 
forgo comfort. This mode of entering into 
Chinese life is, however, scarcely necessary, as so 
much of their life is spent in the open, and is 
seen ou,t of doors, that it is not difficult for one 
who has studied the Chinese thoroughly to picture 
the small remaining portion of their, life unrevealed 
from what one knows, and from the echoes that 
ones hears of the hidden life. To take lodgings 
in a: Chinese house, as one would do in Europe 
and America, is impossible, or next to it, and would 
be inadvisable, from the European standpoint, for 
the reasons given above. 

The tradesman, except in the most affluent cir- 
cumstances, and as a rule even then, lives in 
or above or behind his shop. The mierchant, who 
m China is only a shopkeeper on a larger, grander 
scale, very possibly does the same. If not, like 
his European confrere, he wiU spend the best part 
of the day at business. The merchant will often 
have shares in half a dozen, a dozen, or more, 
separate businesses. To keep a personal super- 
vision of all these is impossible, and to hold some 
check on them- he will put in a clansman, to keep 
some oversight on what goes on in his interests. 
Under these conditions it is possible for an un- 
scrupulous man, in case of difficulties and a failure 

307 



Jolm Chinaman Indoors 

of the firm, to attempt to deny all responsibilities 
connected with the insolvent business, and the fact 
that a Chinaman can use several names to represent 
himself aids him in his nefarious designs. On the 
whole, however, the Chinese are honest business 
men. 

The mandarin’s office, barracks, court-house, 
gaol, and residence are all in the same congeries of 
buildings: so he is always at home, and his work 
is never done, in the case of high and responsible 
officials. He is never out of harness, except for 
the nominal period of three years (really twenty- 
seven months) of mourning for his parents. 
During this period he should have no additions 
to his family. This is the only time when the 
ceremonial etiquette of Chinese family life sanc- 
tions the restriction of the birth-rate. At other 
times John Chinaman’s idea is that the more sons 
the better, and unfortunately the fewer daughters 
still the better. 

There is no counterpart to the Londoner’s and 
the English city dweller’s exodus to the suburbs 
in the evening and into the city in the day. The 
country has not yet been discovered in China, 
much less the seaside. The Chinaman’s country 
is his ancestral home, though it may not be the 
country for which our Western wishes long, our 
minds dream of, and our eyes behold with visions 
of future delight, when in the dusty noisy city 
streets. In the ancestral hall are John Chinaman’s 
tablets of his ancestors for several generations back 

308 



The Chief Concern 


at the Very least. To this root -place of his clan 
he returns when the outside world has been too 
hard for him, and in abject poverty he seeks the 
help which the ancestral or family funds will afford 
him. Religion, social status, support, if necessary, 
are all to be found here; and often wife and 
family reside here while the chief bread-winner is 
at some great mart or distant port, or even abroad 
seeking to amass the fortune which, as a rule, 
John Chinaman knows so well how to acquire by 
his frugal habits, patience, perseverance, and keen 
business instincts. The wife is left at this centre, to 
minister to the comfort of the parents -in-law ; 
for theoretically and practically the old folks at 
home are the chief concern. They are not rela- 
tives, according to the Chinese idea, but belong 
to the innermost circle of human relationships, 
more intimate than the outer, ever-expanding 
family. 

Once or twice a year, if possible, John China- 
man goes home to see them. It is to be supposed 
that he incidentally sees his wife as well; but that 
is not the object of his visit, at least the ostensible 
and avowed reason for the journey. At other 
times, if distance and labour do not forbid, he 
may “ go back to the country,’’ as he calls it. An 
occasion that rightly enough would imperatively 
demand his I'eturn is as a son, to perform the last 
pious rites for his parents. 

It would, however, be entirely unnecessary to be 
present at his wife's funeral ; nor indeed, for that 

309 X 



John Chinaman Indoors 

matter, is it nec'essary, in some parts of the country, 
for him to be present at his own wedding. He 
may be too busy, and not be able to get away 
to put in an appearance, or it is possible he may 
be at the other side of the world; but his mother 
can arrange everything for him. No courting, 
of course, is necessary; and a barnyard fowl will 
act as his to cunt ienens at the marriage feast 
and ceremonies. This is one of the things that, 
to say the least of it, make it rather awkward for 
an English or foreign girl to marry a Chinaman, 
as on going home to China she may find a Chinese 
girl already installed as chief wife by the old 
mother, and, unless the stranger from over the 
waters is willing to take her place as second wife, 
and be the slave of the mother-in-law and the 
drudge of the real wife, ructions are the result. 
Thus, once installed, the legitimate, legal wife can- 
not be ousted from her position for an outsider, 
who would have no status in Chinese family life, 
but that of a secondary wife, or so-called 
concubine. 

It is a tho,usand pities that this phase of Chinese 
marital life is not widely known In Europe and 
America and our colonies. A Chinaman copies 
abroad, and is made much of. Hq is pjerhaps 
a’ nice fellow, is making his way in the world, and 
is kind and attentive to the English or Australian 
girl he is courting. She is infatuated^ and marries 
him', knowing nothing of Chinese social life and 
customs, and not believing what she is told, should 

310 



A Warning 


any one, knowing what the Chinese marriage 
customs are, warn her beforehand. As long as they 
remain in Australia or some foreign land all may 
go well ; but, naturally enough, sooner or later the 
man wants to go home, and, kind and good hus- 
band as he may have been, the inexorable laws 
of marriage, the customs, with the iron-bound 
sanction of ages, cannot be broken through, and 
the man feels himself helpless. The girl is dis- 
illusioned too late. 

These cases are not uncommon. The author 
has come across not a few in his official life, 
and occasionally had it in his power to render some 
slight assistance to the distressed Women; but in 
other cases nothing could be done. If there are 
children, i.e.^ boys, the matter becomes compli- 
cated, as the family, supposing the first wife has 
no sons, wish to retain one at least for ancestral 
worship, and the author has known stratagems 
and tricks resorted to, either to get the child away 
from its mother, or to keep it, should the mother 
attempt to leave the much-wived household. What 
the mother’s feelings are may be imagined without 
an attempt at description. 

The Chinese offitial appears to long for the 
day when he may cease from his arduous labours, 
a difficult thing, as there is no age for retirement 
— illness, senility, or dismissal being the only means 
of retiring into private life. That many long 
for this laying down of the, rob^s of state, there 
is ample proof in Chinese literature. One pf 

311 



John Chinaman Indoors 

the foremost poets of China verses the wish 
thus : — 


Would I could 

Hie me from my office cares. 

By the brooklet then Fd lie, 

Catch the finny tribes with snares ; 

In my cottage in the wood, 

Read my books and dream and think, 

Love o’er all the past to brood 
And the present with it link.” 

The g-entleman at large, if a literary man, finds 
enjoyment in his library. The author has a 
pleasant memory of visiting a wealthy merchant 
of literary and scientific tastes in his country house, 
who, amidst edifying conversation, regaled him 
and his friend with slight refreshment, the leading 
feature in which has fixed itself on the writer’s 
memory as a pot of English jam, which was 
expected to be taken from the jar by the aid of 
a foreign fork. 

Meals are the most important part of the day 
to a Chinaman. The wise will not in a moment 
of urgent haste for the performance of some im- 
portant matter, call on a' Chinaman, even though 
he be his servant, to forgo the pleasures of the 
table, even for a brief season. The two set meals 
in the day occupy some of a man’s time, to which 
are added an informal lunch, and other pickings 
pass some of the hours. His lark, also, requires 
a gentleman’s care, to give it some fresh air, though 
he may not feel the need of any himself. This 



Social Duties 


and a chat with friends will move on the slow 
wheels of time. Now and then, public' affairs 
may come in the day’s work, as those who have 
the responsibility of the neighbourhood on their 
hands meet in temple or guildhall. 

It must not be supposed that an assembly of 
this sort is governed by the rules that keep our 
public bodies to a strict attention to the business 
before them. Yet without the rigid rules framed 
for the rapid transaction of business, the work 
is done, and well done too, notwithstanding the 
leisurely chatting, the drinking of innumerable cups 
of tea, smoking of endless pipes, and splitting 
of hundreds of melon seeds. Looking after his 
large family of wives and children also engrosses 
the attention of a man of leisure during many an 
hour. 

There are no calls on the ladies of the house by 
gentlemen. The inner apartments only receive 
lady visitors and their children; gentlemen are 
only received in the outer apartments by the host 
and his sons. The inevitable tea, pipes, and melon 
seeds, and sometimes sweets, &c., are produced. 
A most ceremonial reception and leave-taking 
precede and follow the ceremonious call. The 
rank and position of the guest form the guide to 
the honour that is to be accorded to him, and the 
distance the host has to escort him to his sedan- 
chair. 

Dinners are not given at home, but at a 
restaurant in the town, and, of course, no ladies 
of respectability are present. 

3^3 



John Chinaman Indoors 


Chess is thought to be a game for a scholar, 
nor is it confined to that class, as the street chair- 
coolies may be seen playing while waiting for 
hire. Other games are also played. One of the 
most common amongst the latter class is nine men’s 
morris . 

The Chinese man of fortune is fortunate if 
gambling has not cast its glamour and infatuation 
over him, as his ample means, if not entirely dissi- 
pated by it are bound to suffer large encroach- 
ments on them. Nearly all Chinese gamble more 
or less. Better still if the opium-pipe does not 
claim him as its slave, as the chains once fastened 
on him are well-nigh impossible to burst, and the 
vice soon masters him, demanding, as the habit 
grows, more time to be devoted to it, and ruining 
his whole life, filching money from his purse, and 
when that is emptied, gradually taking his pro- 
perty. When that is exhausted, wife and child 
sometimes go, to find the means to satisfy the 
craving for the drug. At last the man is left an 
“ opium ghost,” as the Chinese expressively term 
it, for he is but a ghost of what he was, an 
emaciated and walking skeleton on the brink of 
a dishonoured grave, ready with gaping mouth 
to engulf him. Happy, if timely wise, he resolutely 
shuns the foe at its first advances. 

The women in the house employ themselves with 
embroidery, making their sm'all shoes, smoking, 
cracking melon seeds, looking after their children 
and the ordering of the household. If rich, the 

3H 




Woman’s Place 


oversight of the women -servants and domestic 
slave-girls occupies p^rt of their time. The 
negotiations for the marriage of their children, 
in which the father takbs his full share, is another 
engrossing matter. Gossip> playing dominoes and 
cards while away some idle hours, and visits to 
acquaintance are not forgotten, when, shut up in 
closed sedan-chairs, they hurry through the streets, 
attended by a woman-servant or slave -girl. 
Quarrels are not uncommon between the different 
wives. 

A feast-day is a gala-day. Theatricals form a 
bright interlude; but it is not c'onsidered respect- 
able to frequent the theatre. The whole life would 
be miserable to our well-educated woman, with 
so many interests, not only indoors but out. We 
must, however, remember that this narrow life, 
with no wide outlook, is what the Chinese lady 
has been brought up to, and she knows no other. 
Notwithstanding all her disadvantages, many a 
Chinese woman is dapable, sensible, and well 
fitted to rule her household; but much is wanting, 
nevertheless, for her to attain, in the majority of 
cases, to the position she should occupy in the 
home -life of the nation. This, many of the people 
are beginning to realise. Now is the opportunity 
for the West to give of its best to the East, and 
impart to them the civilising influences of Chris- 
tianity, 


315 



CHAPTER XXIV 


JoliB Chinaman at Work 

J OHN CHINAMAN is a hard worker — one of 
the hardest, all things being taken into con- 
sideration, on the face of the earth. An early 
riser, he toils on through all the long hours of a 
weary summer’s day without a Spanish siesta or 
an Englishman’s midday diimer-hour. 

Climatic conditions and no weekly day of rest 
deny him the intense energy, displayed amongst 
some of the world’s labourers, and oftener to be 
found in the temperate and rest-giving West ; but 
take the Chinese boatman when in full toil, and 
the burden-bearing coolies in Canton, and the 
incessant hard labour and the strength displayed 
are commensurate with any efforts of the West. 

Unbraced by a continuous cool climate, as 
prevails to a great extent in most European 
countries, John Chinaman’s physique is doubtless 
loweti than that of many a stout Englishman or 
brawny Scot. But see a couple of chair-coolies, 
slight in build and short in stature^ lift up a sedan- 

31b 



A Patient Toiler 


chair on their shoulders — no light weight in itself 
— and bear it through the heat and burden of a 
sweltering day, with the thermometer far up in 
the eighties, and rising up even beyond ninety 
degrees, in the shade : see all this done amidst 
an atmosphere surcharged with moisture, and 
your respect for the endurance of John Chinaman 
goes up a considerable number of degrees. The 
author has had four men carry him rapidly in a 
very heavy chair up a steep height of about i,8oo 
feet with only one or, two slight rests, and then, 
shortly afterwards carry him' down the same 
distance on the same road again. Though the 
Chinese jinricksha-coolie cannot excel, or perhaps 
vie with, his Japanese confrere^ yet he can do a 
good spin in the shafts of that vehicle. 

John Chinaman is the most patient toiler to be 
found on God’s earth. He does not hurry himself, 
unless under the weight of a great and heavy 
burden. The hustle of the Far West is but little 
known in the Far East. Time is of comparatively 
little importance to him' ; it is not of the essence 
of the contract ; time does not seem to be money. 
It is more the distance traversed than the time 
taken to do it that forms the basis of the demand 
by the chair-coolie or jinricksha -coolie for more 
than his legal fare. 

Scamping of work is not unknown in the East, 
any more than in the West, and here it is that the 
Chinese carpenter or bricklayer seems to appreciate 
the full value of time for the accumulation of an 

317 



John Chinaman at Work 

uneariied increment of Wages unjustly acquired. 
Strict commercial honesty is as common in China] 
in the mercantile firm' as the Englishman will 
find it in the centres of his own commerce, if it is 
not better understood and carried out ; but the 
workman’s application of it to wage -earning is 
a different story. 

Some of the long hours of Chinese toil are more 
apparent than real ; for the busy hammer and 
anvil of the blacksmith are heard at ten o’clock 
at night, and the explanation of this is, that there 
are different relays of men employed. 

Patient toil, in which time appears to be of 
little consequence, and with tools which a Western 
workman would think it impossible to do anything 
decent with, are the normal conditions of Chinese 
labour. There is a want of finish in much of the 
work produced by the Chinaman’s primitive tools, 
but it is a wonder that, with such rude contrivances 
as some of them’ are, he is able to do what he does 
so well. On the other hand, some of the work that 
goes from his hands is exquisite. Thej carving is 
fine, as shown especially in the wood-carving of 
curios, black -wood furniture, panels, and the open- 
work of the upper part of the French doors that 
he delights to put in his buildings, taking the 
place of the otherwise plain partitions. The 
carving of ivory chess-men, card-cases, &c., of 
marble cups, of stone into snuff -bottles and curios, 
is all worthy of note. 

As an instance of patience’, there is in Chinese 
318 



Tools 


literature the story of one who^, wanting a needle, 
ground down a crowbar for the purppse. “A 
Chinaman never scorns any kind of drudgery,” 
says the author of The Chinese^ as They Are, 
“ He feels no scruple as to the honourable pr 
dishonourable character of the occupation, but 
casts an eye towards the wages stipulated, and 
zealously applies himiself to the toil.” 

Some of the Chinese tools are very different from 
those in use in the West. Hones and whetstones 
are used by the carpenter, one being a constant 
occupier of his wooden tool -tray ; but if a pair of 
scissors or a razor is to be sharpened, they are not 
ground with a grindstone, but shaved by a cutting 
tool similar to a spoke-shave. Every kind of iron 
or steel work is produced in a very rude manner. 
The brass padlocks are curious things . The chisels 
are rough-looking objects. A plane has a small 
stick for a handle, put through a hole prepared 
for it at the back part of the body of the plane, 
thus requiring the use of both hands. The saw 
has its blade generally set at an angle to the handle, 
the latter being a framework, forming with the 
blade, which is at one side of it, a parallelogram. 
A carpenter’s brace and bit are ingenious and 
curious ; the former is a stick, with a short dross - 
bar at one end for a handle, a loose cord is 
attached to it at both ends, and the slack part of 
this is twisted round the bit-holder, which can 
thus be caused to rotate rapidly, one hand holding 
the brace and the other the bit -holder, guiding it 

319 



John Chinaman at Work 

and exerting the requisite amount of pressure 
required. 

The Chinese scaffold-builders (quite a craft in 
itself) are very clever and ingenious. In a land 
where at certain seasons of the year the rain 
descends in torrents, precautions are necessary to 
shield and protect a building while in course of 
construction and repair. Not only is a fratnework 
of bamboo poles erected round it ; but this is 
carried over the roof, and covered with large 
oblongs of bamboo -leaves fastened together. No 
nails are used in these structures, which are tied 
together securely and firmly by long thongs of split 
rattan. Under this shelter workmen are secure 
from sun and showers. When the work is over 
the builders appear again, and, removing the 
coverings first, they take down the framework, 
using for this purpose short knives to cut through 
the rattan.' 

Nor are these mat-sheds only used for at protec- 
tion for buildings at certain times ; but they are 
put up, to house the workmen required on any 
particular job, as the building of a house, extensive 
repairs, or excavations of earthwork, construction 
of roads, the building of tombs, &c., and still 
further, many Chinese use them as permanent 
residences. Europeans, indeed, occasionally find 
them’ convenient for that purpose, as they can 
be fitted with wooden doors and windows, &c., 
and they are most useful also when required for a 
short time, taking the place of tents and marquees^ 

320 



Building Operations 

They are quickly put up, quickly taken down, 
and! quickly destroyed if by chance they take 
fire. They are largely used by the Chinese for 
theatres. 

Instead of employing a long ladder to ascend 
to the roof of a house to execute repairs, the 
Chinese appear to prefer to make a temporary 
ladder of bamboo poles against the house. The 
scaffold-builders are in constant demand, and most 
useful their work is for steeples and towers. 
Temporary bridges are made in the same way, 
with bamboo poles and boards laid for the flooring. 
Little wharves are also constructed in the same 
manner. One constantly sees in Hong Kong an 
inclined plane of such material, leading up from 
the street to the upper, storey of a house where a 
death has occurred, to allow the passage of the 
heavy coffin through a window down iirto the 
street. 

An immense number of operations are carried 
on in China with man-power, as steam-power is 
only beipg introduced of late in railways, steamers, 
&c. Horse-power would form no unit of calcula- 
tion to a Chinese, for horses are unknown, and 
Manchurian ponies are but little used, in immense 
tracts of that great Empire. In the south, where 
a few are seen, they serve as carriers of military 
mandarins, who ride on them, and the servants 
of great civil officials also use them for the same 
purpose. The only animal used for traction in the 
south is the water-buffalo, which draws the prfini- 

321 



John Chinaman at Work 

tive plough through the Chinaman’s fields, and 
also turns the oil -mill, &c. Man is the pack-horse, 
man is the carrier of burdens of every kind and 
of every material. Man burdens himself with his 
fellow-man in a more literal sense than with us. 
With oar, track -line, and pole, ma.n has moved 
millions of boats and vessels fot thousands of 
years, in a land where boats are used for every 
conceivable object, thankful when favourable wind 
and tide give him relspite from active toil, and all 
that is necessary is a hand on the tiller and the 
sheets of the wide-spread sail. Man with an 
endless pump raises water by using his feet on 
treadmill-like steps rotating floats within a 
trough and so dragging up the water from 
the river to irrigate his rice-fields. And in 
his boats which carry fish to the market, 
his feet acting on the same principle, bring 
in a; supply of fresh water to the fish in the 
tanks. 

Applying the same method he takes the place 
of a steam-engine in some of the passage-boats 
on the Canton River, which proceed rapidly on 
their voyages, relays of men working the stem- 
wheel and so providing the motive power ; the 
boats might be fitly described not as of so much 
horse -power but of so many men -power. In this 
connection it may be interesting to note that 
jinricksha means man -power carriage. 

Most ingenious are the ivory-carvers, who 
employ a number of small chisels, either leyel at 

322 



The Right to Work 

the edge or slanting on one side to a point. Some 
have a projecting tooth upon one side, in order 
to unidercut the figures. “The workman holds 
the object in his left hand, and scrapes away the 
ivory with his right. He resorts to no means 
for abridging the labour of his task.” Some of the 
most curious objects produced by them' are con- 
centric ivory balls, one being within the other and 
all carved, even the innermost ones . This is 
done by tools being introduced through the 
holes of the carvings of the outer balls . 
This example is enough to show what infinite 
care and trouble Chinese workmen take in their 
work. 

Nearly every Chinaman believes in the right 
to work, and the ntajority find the right work to 
do, though it may be almost unremunerative. 
Numerous as are the occasions for a procession 
in China:, there are none of the imemployed, crying 
their lugubrious strain of “ WeVe got no woirk 
to do ” ; that is left to the beggars, and even 
they work diligently and unceasingly at their 
employment of soliciting alms. The inherently 
vicious take up the work of highway robbery and 
piracy, to which often the otherwise honest have 
been driven by floods or famines. 

It has been recently stated that in England 
13,000,000 persons “are living within a week of 
want, and are habitually underfed and insufficiently 
clothed.” It is impossible to say how many millions 
of China’s teeming population are in a similar 

• 323 



John Chinaman at Work 


position ; but that there are vast multitudes of 
them in such a condition there cannot be a shadow 
of doubh ^ud yet^ except when a flood or famine 
upsets the ordinary state of affairS;, they manage 
to keep soul and body togethen and continue the 
race. 

The solidarity of labour is evinced by the 
ubiquitous guilds which not only gathers all the 
otherwise scattered members of one handicraft 
under its aegis, but bristles with enmity against 
all who try to impugn its authority and crushes 
them by its power. A system' of apprenticeship 
is in existence, during the years of which the lad 
becomes proficient in his calling. The guilds are 
financed by the subscriptions of the craftsmen, 
fines, &c. They subscribe liberally to charitable 
purposes. 

Theoretically to work with the hands is the 
most honourable of all callings in China, next to 
that which claims the pre-eminence — that of 
working with the brain, viz., the scholar. After 
the literati come the agriculturists, and this 
means the man who has a small holding. In 
China one does not see farm|s hundreds of ^cres 
in extent. A Chinese acre, a mow^ is less than 
the sixth of an English one. 

A farmer is really a market-gardener, though 
he grows rice and other crops. His fields are 
neat and beautiful, with the regular and clean 
rows of vegetables — not a weed is to be seen. 
Morning and night, with his two large buckets 

324 



Small Culture 


hanging to a pole across his shoulders, in a half^ 
trot he runs up the hollows between the ridges, and 
showers down the miniature rain from these primi- 
tive watering-pots. There is no rose, only a slit 
cut across the long bamboo tube which rises from 
each bucket, and a broad jet of water spurts out 
from them. He is busy, too, with his buckets 
of liquid night-soil diluted with water, which he 
ladles out on the growing crops ; he appears to 
have no olfactory nerves, as he carries on his 
nauseous task. The earliest dawn finds him at his 
work ; but soon after five or six o’clock in the 
evening the fields are deserted. Then he hies him 
home to his hovel-like abode in the little hamlet 
or village, for lonely farm-houses scattered here 
and there over the country-side are unknown in 
China. 

Safety is in numbers, though even robberies and 
armed assaults on villages are not unknown A 
single house would be liable to a raid on it. In 
river-travel the boats are glad at night to stop 
at a village, or where several others have put up 
till daylight. 

The emerald-green of the rice-fields is a beau- 
tiful sight, as the tender shoots rise from: their 
watery bed. Later on they put on a corn -golden 
hue. The most untidy fields are those of the 
sweet potatoes, which grow on sandy soil. The 
creepers of this spread over the ridges and en- 
croach on the hollows between. 

The farmer’s tools are most primitive ; his 

325 Y 



John Chinaman at Work 


plough^ harrow, and mattocks were brought with 
him from the cradle of the race, and evidently have 
not been altered since. His winno wing-machine, 
simple in construction, has been copied in Europe, 
it is said. The mattock is used largely in agri- 
cultural operations. In working it is lifted high 
above the head and brought down with force, and 
the impetus of its descent sends it well into the 
soil. The spade is but little used. 

Thriftiness under the hard taskmaster of limited 
means is perhaps carried as far, if not farther, 
than amongst any people. The endurance of the 
Chinese coolie is great. The coal-coolies coaling 
a vessel work hard and carry in the usual Chinese 
manner the two baskets of coal, slung to a pole, up 
the narrow gangway planks in a continual stream 
and empty them down into the bunkers. The 
earth-coolies, like ants, carry the excavated earth 
in continuous lines, one with full baskets, the other 
with empty ones returning for another load. Thus 
a: cutting is made for a railway, or foundations 
for buildings, or reclamation work is carried on. 
In Hong Kong it is a sight to see the traffic 
of these coolies on the road. There are about 
150 houses in the Peak district of the colony at 
heights of from 1,000 to 1,800 feet above the 
sea-level, including a large hotel and two barracks. 
All the material for these buildings, whether timber, 
brick, or tiles, has been carried by men, women, 
and children up a steep road, much of it in a 
hot, broiling sun. The stone for retaining walls 

326 



Cheerful Toilers 

and foundations was obtained on the heights them- 
selves, but this likewise was carried by men to 
the site required. 

The children begin early at this hard labour, 
taking a few bricks in the bamboo slings sus- 
pended to the two ends of the pole, and, like 
Milo with the calf, as they grow in strength the 
burden increases, till between thirty and forty 
bricks can be carried at each end of the carrying 
pole. Two journeys are sometimes made in the 
day with these loads, while most would think that 
a simple walk up and down without any burden 
was quite enough, if not too much, on a hot day. 
Not only are these twO' journeys taken, but the 
houses in which these coolies herd are often a 
mile or two away from their work. 

A not uncommon thing for Chinese when carry- 
ing heavy objects a long distance is to take two 
loads ; they start with one, and before long put 
it down at the side of the road, and' go back 
for the other, keeping up this alternate carrying 
of the two till the end qf the journey is reached. 
Thus a rest is obtained between each carry. With 
the perspiration pouring down his naked back, 
or barefoot in keenly cold weather, and nothing 
on his legs but a ragged pair of old cotton 
trousers, the Chinese coolie makes the best of life. 
“ He earns whate’er he can ” with a habitual readi- 
ness to labour. He can wash his own clothes ; 
his wardrobe is small ; he can cook his own 
dinner ; he is happy and contented, and makes 

327 



John Chinaman at Work 

the best of everything, joking and laughing, and 
seldom quarrelling with any one. 

Everything that surrounds him is conducive to 
the expenditure of the least to produce results 
commensurate to his needs. Even his enjoyments, 
barring the vices of gambling and opium-smoking, 
are on a reasonable scale. A mountain streamlet, 
if in the country, provides him with some cool 
water to rinse out his mouth when thirsty (not 
much cold water is drunk in China). Some one 
has placed an old bowl ready at hand to catch 
the water as it trickles out of the rock, si little 
stall under some shady tree has laid on it cups 
of amber-coloured tea, a few cakes, and fruit, 
any and all of which may be had for the expendi- 
ture of a few cash. His breakfast he has had 
before leaving home, and his dinner he will have 
after his day’s work is over. He carries his pipe 
and tobacco with him, and has ai whiff or two out 
of its tiny bowl every now and then, or buys a 
few cigarettes for a few cash from a stall, and 
one or two may be stuck above his ear, ready 
for a smoke when wanted. Sometimes he carries 
a few cash in his ear. His amusements are not 
many : he can always chat to his heart’s content, 
and laugh and joke to any extent with others 
like-conditioned as himself. The theatre, with its 
entrancing scenes of historic story or broad farce, 
can be enjoyed for a mere trifle. 

It does not seem much toi live for ; a narrow 
horizon, the limitations great ; and yet he enjoys 

328 



Happy though Poor 

life— one feels almost inclined to say, to the full. 
He starts it with a knowledge of how to be happy, 
though single, and he has scarcely learned that 
when his mother puts him into the position of 
“ how to be happy though married.” If any one 
has solved the problem of how to be happy though 
poor, it is John Chinaman, and in many instances 
he soon rises tO: the position of trying whether 
he can be happy though rich. 

A people capable of the minute care and atten- 
tion, patient industry, and never-relenting toil 
shown in their carvings are the same who have 
constructed some of the wonders of the world, 
as all these powers of application and endurance 
ensure, when once commenced, the completion of 
great undertakings. An example of this is the 
Great Wall, 1,500 miles long, along the northern 
boundaries, which took ten years to construct . The 
Roman Wall of Britain pales into insignificance 
beside this enormous rampart, which, as one writer 
has remarked, would extend from Portugal to 
Naples. Nor is this the only wall of this kind. 
Dr. Stein, the explorer, has recently found remains 
of others, the existence of which had been for- 
gotten. The Grand Canal is another monument 
to John Chinaman’s persevering toil— an enterprise 
which reflects far more credit upon the monarchs 
who devised and executed it than does the Great 
Wall ; and if the time in which it was dug, and 
the character of the princes who planned it be 
considered, few works can be mentioned in the 

329 



John Chinaman at Work 

history of any country more admirable and use- 
ful. When originally constructed, there was 
uninterrupted water communication by its means 
for nearly the whole length of the Empire. 


330 



CHAPTER XXV 


What John Chinaman Believes 

D EEP-ROOTED in all his thoughts and 
feelings, John Chinaman enshrines the 
ghosts of those who gave him birth. These 
spirits he fears always, even if he reverences 
them and desires their welfare ; for he believes 
that on their comfort and goodwill depends his 
well-being. 

Besides these the world is filled with good and 
evil spirits, for he does not confine his mental 
vision to what his physical sight reveals to him', 
but allows his fancies full play in what has been 
described as “ the dim mysterious region beyond 
our present range of thought.” John Chinaman, 
however, fully peoples this region with very sub- 
stantial shadows who roam in this upper world. 
There are hungry ghosts amongst them for whom, 
in his charity, as they have nO' relatives to care 
for them, he provides a feast once a year. These 
ghostly feasts— whether for his own ancestors or 
for famished starveling spirits, by rights belong- 
ing to others, or for his gods, consist O'f the 

331 



What John Chinaman Believes 

sublimated essences of solid food and drink, which 
by some subtle mysterious manner serve to feed 
with their invisible elements the invisible beings. 
The hunger of the ghosts provided for, man, in 
the persons of the offerer and his family, can 
fall on what they have left. According to John 
Chinaman, all are satisfied, and, viewed from his 
standpoint, it is a most satisfactory proceeding, 
for not only are the ghosts fed but, except for 
the drink offerings, some of which may be poured 
out on the ground, what has been offered, un- 
diminished in quantity, serves as a feast for the 
living. 

Besides libations poured on the ground, smoking 
candles have flared and guttered in the wind or 
on the quiet altar, and the fragrant savour of 
incense floated in the air. Joss paper has also 
been changed to ashes, and somehow or other 
penetrated into the spirit-world, transformed, so 
John Chinaman believes, by the process, the unreal 
into the real, the shadow into the substance, the 
tinsel into silver and gold, by the sublimating 
effects of the fire. Paper and bamboo models 
of boats likewise are burned, and in the same 
way become boats fit to stem the floods of Hades. 
Sedan-chairs and carriages, and even servants, all 
made of paper and bamboo, are thus sent to 
relatives and friends and all who have died. 
Equally flimsy miniature houses are transformed 
into gorgeous substantial mansions in the Elysian 
Fields ; paper garments, patterns of the real, into 

332 



Spirits and Deities 

warm clothing for naked spirits. Thus fed, 
housed, clothed, nourished, and every want pro- 
vided for, including even mock cash, juggled 
somehow into real coin to buy in the next world 
what he has omitted to send from this, John 
Chinaman is satisfied that hell’s evils are over- 
come, and heaven resounds with praise and 
enhanced joy, more especially as he has doubtless 
also spent substantial money on priests, monks, 
and nuns, to say masses to release the departed 
from the pains of hell. 

Besides these spirits of the departed, the world 
is peopled with beings who but seldom' reveal 
themselves to the eye of flesh. Spirits reside in 
the wide-spreading banyan-trees in the temple- 
yard and at the corners of the bridges, and are 
remembered with offerings. Some of the former 
worthies of earth are now worthier than ever, as 
they have been entrusted with different functions 
of Nature. Fire is ruled over by the God of 
Fire, who was the wick or flame of a lamp in 
a temple for long ages, imtil finally he attained 
to the sanctity of a temple and shrine for himself. 
A midwife in Canton, who lived a century or two 
ago, has been deified as the patron saint of women 
at the most critical period of their lives. A famous 
general in feudal China nearly seventeen hundred 
years ago is now the God of War. All the 
forces of Nature have gods presiding over them. 

Down in the pearly depths of the Yellow or 
China Sea sits in a palace of delight the Ocean 

333 



What John Chinaman Believes 


Dragon King, who sends the rain, mounting the 
sky and riding on the clouds, spouting out the 
showers as they fall. His duty is assigned him, 
and the precise quantity he is to send, the measure 
of his floods of blessings being fixed by the 
inexorable decrees and commands of the Gem- 
meous Ruler, the Supreme Ruler over gods and 
demons in the Taoist hierarchy of gods. This 
same Dragon King of the Ocean Depths lost his 
head once for disobedience ; for he sent more 
rain than ordered for the purpose of falsifying 
the predictions of a soothsayer, and was beheaded 
in consequence. 

The sailor, especially the rough and rugged 
Fokienese navigator, puts his faith in a goddess 
who, while in the flesh, and sitting at her spinning- 
wheel, fell one day into a trance-like sleep, and 
her spirit leaving her body rode on the storm, 
and rescued her father and one brother from the 
deep. She would have succeeded in towing her 
other brother’s boat out of danger as well, had 
it not been that her mother waked her, and the 
thread in her mouth, which was the tow-line 
attached to the bows of the subsequently wrecked 
vessel, snapped, and her brother was drowned. 

The women venerate especially the virgin 
Goddess of Mercy, the daughter, centuries ago, 
of an Indian king, who withstood all attempts to 
force her into marriage. Biting her finger, she 
extinguished, with the blood which spurted out, the 
flames in the palace which were lit to coerce her 

334 



Ghosts and Demons 


into yielding or being destroyed. The personi- 
fication of tender mercy, on her visit to Hades 
she pitied the poor wretches being punished, and 
poured some of the precious dew or holy water 
from her vase, and thus eased a poor soul being 
brayed in a mortar. This and kindred actions 
called out a vigorous protest on the part of the 
officials of the Lower Regions in favour of justice 
being done and punishment being allowed to con- 
tinue, as the recompense of evil deeds. Like the 
Buddhas — for she is a Buddha also — she sits on 
a lotus as a throne ; an infant is often on one 
arm, or sitting in her lap. Her sublime grace 
has charmed the demon who stands on her right, 
and made him a slave of compassionate love. Her 
pity and loving-kindness are vouchsafed to all ; 
for she hears with compassion the prayers of those 
who are in distress. 

But the hosts of the unseen are iimumerable. 
Nearly every house-door has pasted on it the 
figures of two ancient generals, who guarded an 
emperor from the disturbance of evil, noisy spirits, 
and who are therefore trusted in by all for a 
similar purpose now ; for evil ghosts and demons 
are everywherie. They rush along the streets, if 
a straight course is allowed them, and so, to 
prevent this, turns and comers are made in the 
narrow streets, much to the inconvenience of all, 
as well as of the bad spirits, and houses also 
jut out to obstruct their course. To prevent their 
loitering at these comers stones are set up or 

335 



What John Chinaman Believes 

let into the wall, with the awful wotds on them, 
“A stone ftom the Tie Mountain,” and, aghast, 
the ghosts sweep round the corner. 

The benign God of the Locality, often with 
his wife, sits in a shrine at many a street corner ; 
for the evil spirits of the English public-houses 
do not infest these spots in the Chinese streets. 
Shrines and altars to these tutelary spirits abound. 
At each shop-front, in the end of the counter 
which separates part of the shop from the street, 
a little niche is seen in the stone- or brick-work, 
and in it on red paper or a board can be read 
an inscription which bears the name of the God 
of Wealth ; for the Chinese are honest in acknow- 
ledging that they worship wealth. Many in the 
West do likewise, but will not allow that they 
do. This inscription is often an invocation to 
riches to come and bless the shopkeeper ; incense 
night and morning is lighted before this, and 
offerings often made. Another shrine is in che 
shop itself, where also incense is his service, as. 
well as other acknowledgments of the god’s 
presence. 

A list of Chinese gods and deities would be 
long, and never complete, as new ones are con- 
stantly being added to the number ; and what 
would serve for one part of the country would 
not be appropriate to another. The gods have 
come down to the Chinese in the form of men, 
or rather men have risen to the heavens in the 
form of gods, for nearly all the deified heroes 

33 ^ 



Comprehension 

or saints have had a human history, either ancient 
or modem. 

The popular belief is that the spirit of the god 
takes up its abode in the conventional image 
which man prepares for his dwelling, after the 
service of instalment and induction, which is signi- 
fied by a vermilion dot on the eye. If a temple 
is to be repaired, thfe gods ate asked to take 
themselves away until all is ready for their return, 
when they are invited back. It seems altogether 
very much like grown-up people playing at dolls, 
only it is in real earnest, and not make-believe, 
and the people are dominated by the fear of these 
gods which they have highly exalted to this regal 
state to rule the destinies of man from' that high 
eminence conferred on them by theit worshippers. 

The system of Buddhist philosophy has pandered 
to the human cry of the lowly dwellers on earth 
who felt unable to scale the icy heights of the 
philosophical self -negation of the Indian reformer. 
Buddhism has taken under, her wing, in worldly 
wisdom and eclectic selection, many an idol, and 
hatched many a belief entirely incompatible with 
her original tenets of belief. With the toletance 
of all beliefs, typical of the ordinary Chinese mind, 
Taoism often shares in the same shrine of the 
human heart, and its gods are also sometimes 
companions in the same material fane, and with 
them primus inter pares sits Confucius, the Sage 
of All Ages. 

Temples abound containing a pantheon of 
337 



What John Chinaman Believes 

Buddhist or Taoist gods. In the former a trinity 
of the Three Precious Buddhas is enshrined in 
the place of honour ; representing in the exoteric 
form of the faith the esoteric beliefs of the three 
most precious things of the Buddhist belief, vary- 
ing in different fanes, as different views are held 
as to the pre-eminence of the component elements 
of the faith. Gaudama’s followers are likewise 
deified— -first, i8, the most common number, then 
500, and even 10,000. Numerous other Buddhist 
saints and even demi-gods taken over from primi- 
tive beliefs share the main buildings of the temples, 
or the side chapels. 

The same holds good of Taoism, which has 
created a trinity of its own, to vie with Buddhism, 
though, like it, it has sunk from a system of philo- 
sophy to one of idolatry. In a Taoist temple, if 
large, may sometimes be seen a hall set apart 
for the images of the threescore beings who are 
supposed to preside over the sixty years of the 
Chinese sexagenary cycle. Then in the city temple 
will be seen in the cloisters of its outer compart- 
ments scenes representing the Ten Courts of Hades, 
each with its judge, and lictors, as on earth, 
torturing poor wretches for the peccadilloes of 
killing insects, as well as for more flagrant sins 
and crimes. Hades is modelled on earth. 

Then, besides the larger temples and monas- 
teries, smaller temples are scattered all over the 
cities, towns, and villages, and even along the 
country roads, almost as thick as public-houses 

33S 




SHANG 


Temples and Idols 

are in England. Ancestral halls also abound, 
where the tablets of the deceased parents a,re set 
up for worship. 

Now and then some defunct member of the 
human race is canonised by public opinion, and 
from! some wonder-working miracle, or cure, 
believed in by the credulous people, or from' an 
answer to some petition or prayer, takes his or her 
hold on the superstitious minds, and public estiml^- 
tion soon grows in the new idoFs favour. First 
a small wayside shrine serves as a mark of esteem 
in which the new-found saint is held ; but as 
popularity increases a small temple rises to displace 
it, until eventually, as the years roll by, a larger 
fane appears, and other gods find shrines in it, 
and other subsidiary buildings grow up round 
it. Worshippers appear on the saint’s day in great 
multitudes, crowding the courts and thronging the 
approaches. 

The idol’s birthday is the equivalent of the 
saints’ days in Roman Catholic countries. Strange 
to say, the author knows of one city where it does 
not fall on the same day at the two or three 
temples dedicated to the worship of a particular 
goddess. 

Large incense-sticks are sometimes brought 
home by the women-folk after a visit to the 
temple. A roaring trade is done in candles, 
incense, &c. At one temple in Hong Kong, and 
the same happens elsewhere, on and about the 
time of the saintly birthday, booths of matting 

339 



What John Chinaman Believes 


arise for the sale of these accessories of heathen 
worship^ to disappear when the short season is 
over. 

Monasteries and nunneries are found in the 
land : the former more often in wooded glen by 
the banks of some bubbling mountain brook, and 
here pilgrims resort, combining a love of Nature 
with the exercise of religious observances. Monas- 
teries are also found in busy cities, as well as 
convents. Both monks and nuns are held in very 
little estimation by the Chinese. 

Buddhism and Taoism have seen their best days 
in China. To a great extent they are decadent 
faiths. The Chinese are ready to accept a belief 
in anything strange. The attitude they appear 
often to take is, that it may be well to take the 
chance of something proving useful and worthy 
of belief. Hence the religious belief of John 
Chinaman is a conglomerate one : a dash of 
Nature worship, in many of its numerous develop- 
ments, and the cult of ancestor worship. Most of 
the Old World’s primitive beliefs are to be traced 
in survivals in China — a traditional belief in the 
Supreme Ruler, a providence typified by heaven 
and earth, and on all this is superimposed the 
idolatrous systems of Buddhism and Taoism, which 
have opened the way for a gross mass of super- 
stition. 

As to his ordinary beliefs, apart from his 
religious feelings, one will find a counterpart in 
the absurd theories and utterly erroneous oninions 

340 




strange Objects 

held in our own lands some few centuries ago. 
What at times most unfortunately affects foreign 
intercourse in an impleasant manner, is the ascrib- 
ing of the most astounding powers to the foreigner 
who penetrates into China. Wie appear strange 
objects to the unsophisticated native, with our blue 
eyes (or green, as he calls them), red hair, and 
white faces. He believes us so wonderfully 
equipped as to be able to see into the solid earth 
and discover hidden treasures. He further believes 
that we can and do take the dark eyes out of 
Chinese babies, whom we murder for that purpose, 
and make wonderful sight-seeing preparations with 
them. In proof of this are the skeletons found in 
our hospitals, and the graves of foundlings buried 
in orphanages established by. foreigners ; for 
Chinese infants do not receive decent interment 
amongst the natives. 



CHAPTER XXVI 


New Life in Old China 

C HINA awoke the other day after a Rip van 
Winkle sleep of centuries to realise that she 
who had been first would soon be last in the 
march of the nations. She had been the leading 
Power in the Far East. Nations near and far 
sought her smile, or trembled at her frown. Her 
commerce spread far and wide in her own vessels 
and penetrated to the farthest parts of their then 
known world. Her armies subdued the neighbour- 
ing nations, and even carried war to the borders of 
India. Her civilisation became that of the Far 
Eastern world ; for her near neighbours based 
their letters, their literature, their art on China’s. 
Her inventions preceded similar revelations to 
master-minds in the West, or in some cases may 
even have given hints to the West, and in others 
gradually spread through the East to the West. 
Her sages preached the highest morality known to 
many a nation, and were accepted as the teachers 
of neighbouring peoples. Her priests travelled to 
the distant land of India in the interests of what 

342 



The Old Style 

they considered a better faith, to learn more fully 
of it, and bring back its sacred books and relics, 
and then passed on the knowledge they had 
acquired to Japan and other countries receptive 
of the faith. 

At last the inexorable decrees of Fate seemted 
to thunder forth that iron fetters should confine 
her thoughts in the channels prepared for them 
in antiquity. Her scholars glided down the Stream 
of Time, content to rest on the achievements of 
the past. Age at the prow and Old Custom' at the 
helm. The glorious fabric of knowledge and learn- 
ing, the foundations of which had been laid with 
such honour, and bid fair to be the cynosure of 
all eyes, developed no further than a “ crypt of 
the Past.” 

What was, has been, is now, and ever shall 
be, world without end — ^that was the creed. As 
the women’s feet were bound in bandages, and lost 
their power of free and healthy action, so the minds 
of the men were “ cribbed, cabined^ confined,” 
by the tight fetters of iron-bound custom', of age- 
old antiquity, and unfitted for the free stepping out 
on the path of progress. China was a valley of 
dry bones, bleached by the apathy of ages. “ Son 
of man, can these dry bones live? ” The bois- 
terous gales of the north, the softer winds of the 
west have blown, and at last there is a stirring, 
as the Zeitgeist has penetrated these remotest parts 
of the earth. 

Why this state of things? What had served in 
343 



New Life in Old China 

ages past was thought fit for ages to come. Glory 
and honour and power had all come from what had 
been tried and had not been ft)und wanting. 
Why, when the foundations of the Empire had 
stood strong on it ; when the eminence of the 
Empire had resulted from it ; when the submission 
of nations had been its reward — should it not be 
the hope and salvation of the future? All round 
this Central Empire of civilisation were inferior 
peoples and nations ; barbarians, many of them, 
with no fixed abodes — nomads with no written lan- 
guage or literature, savage and wild. 

When from beyond the Western Seas men of 
stranger tribes arrived, like ghosts in appearance, 
in strange ships, with apparently no manners, who 
tore up the printed page and misused the written 
leaf, they apparently were other barbarians, ready 
with tribute for the Son of Heaven, and should be 
treated as such, and if perfectly submissive allowed 
to depart, their tribute -bearing mission over. But 
these strangers asserted their independence ; they 
determined to stay and trade, they insisted on their 
equality to, if not superiority over, the civilised 
Chinese. Such presumption, such arrogance, could 
not be tolerated or endured for a moment. They 
must be kept in check and ruled with 0 , strong 
hand. If his Imperial Majesty allowed them to 
remain, the regulations laid down for their 
guidance must be rigidly adhered to. 

An increasing trade was carried on with this 
stranger within their gates. Restricted on every 

344 



Foreign Concessions 

hand and hampered in their operations, the foreign 
(English) merchant gained a foothold in the 
Chinese Empire at the point of the sword, and 
Hong Kong became a British colony. Foreign guns 
also opened the way for settlements at the treaty 
ports, which were increased gradually, having been 
gained first by force of arms and latterly by 
diplomacy ; thus treaty port followed treaty port, 
extorted from the Chinese, till now they are begin- 
ning to open them themselves. The Portuguese 
had already established themselves at Macao, now 
more than three centuries ago. 

Different nations had concessions at Shanghai, 
Hankow, Tientsin, and elsewhere. Russia was 
creeping in from the north, taking slice after slice 
of the northern possessions of the Empire. Then 
she reached a hand down and grasped Port 
Arthur. England followed suit with Weihaiwei. 
Then other nations wished to continue the grab- 
bing. Italy wanted a port in Fukien. China 
gasped at the demands made on her for territory. 
Japan had already taken Formosa in war, and John 
Chinaman at last had the courage to say “No ! ’* 
The spoilers agreed to spoil no more, but to 
preserve the Empire intact. Japan and China had 
come to blows, and the “ monkey race,” as John 
Chinaman insolently called the Japanese, his neigh- 
bours, had beaten him, to the surprise of the world. 

Japan saw that if Russia once succeeded in her 
designs on the sovereignty of China, and engulfed 
Manchuria and took Korea, she might tremble in 

345 



New Life in Old China 


her shoes for her own kingdom, so exerting her- 
self, drove her enemy out of Port Arthur, 
recovering it for the Chinese. This staggered 
the world, and China wondered, and pondered deep 
the lesson. 

All this time another secret silent conquest of 
China had been going on, despised by many, over- 
looked by others, almost ignored, disdained by 
the majority of the Celestials, wrapped up as they 
were in their pride and conceit. The missionaries, 
besides their direct evangelistic labours, had been 
busy in producing geographies, arithmetics, works 
on science, by the hundreds and thousands, and 
teaching them in their schools. A few others also 
assisted in bringing Western knowledge to the 
Chinese. Thus many minds were being prepared 
for what was to come. There were two factors at 
least, if there were not others, ready to combine 
and act as leverage on the fulcrum of the Japanese 
victories over the West and rouse China from her 
inertia of ages. If Japan could conquer a Western 
nation by the application of a Western army and 
navy, why could not China rise to the occasion, 
and, copying Japanese methods, learn from the 
West to keep the West at bay? So said some of 
China’s progressives. 

A wave of patriotism burst forth from the cave 
of the Western winds. Latent in the Chinese 
character, buried for ages in petty provincial 
jealousies, stifled, this patriotism has risen stagger- 
ing like a drunkard, drunk from the sleep of ages, 

346 



Rapid Changes 


striking out sometimes blindly for home and 
country^ unreasoning in its uncertain course ; but, 
sobering, it* will ere long use its strength aright. 
China moves at last ; but its new life has been 
won with birth-throes, and more than one Chinese 
patriot has died in the struggle, and others have 
suffered. 

The late Chinese Emperor, in the hands of an 
ardent reformer, was rapidly hastening progress, 
perhaps too rapidly, when the reactionary forces 
awoke, and all but crushed him in their anger. 
Slower progress has been the order of the day 
since then ; for China was scarcely prepared for 
such drastic changes as were then being in- 
augurated. Now the whole air is quivering with 
change. It has not always been steady progress : 
contradictory edicts have been issued ; now a 
promise of change has been rescinded ; now an 
order has not been obeyed ; but the general 
trend has been a progressive one. The latest 
phase is the rising of the Chinese against the 
Manchus for liberty, freedom, and a good govern- 
ment. Too much has been done, one would 
fain hope and ardently believe, to render retro- 
gression possible. That there may be checks 
here and there may be taken for granted ; but 
the clock cannot be set back permanently. The 
mainspring of Chinese official life — its unique 
educational system— is being remodelled through- 
out the Empire. The exanrination halls of bygone 
ages, where generations have sat for the com- 

347 



New Life in Old China 


petitive examinations, have been taken down, and 
in their place normal schools have been erected. 
The Confucian classics are being ousted, their place 
being taken by modern text-books of knowledge 
and science. 

The antiquated modes of travel are being gradu- 
ally changed. The process has been going on 
for, a number of years past, and it is all the 
better that it should not dislodate and throw into 
confusion, rebellion, and distress those who have 
earned their living by the old methods. The new 
and the old are still to be seen together. First came 
the fine American river steamers on the Canton 
River and the Yangtse, and ocean-going steamers 
navigated the China Seas as soon, or even before 
that. An American firm’s fleet of steamers was 
purchased years ago and added to, and they have 
run up and down the coast under a Chinese com- 
pany’s flag and the Yellow Dragon flag, with 
foreign captains and officers. This is the largest 
enterprise of the kind engaged in ; but numerous 
single or small steamers are Chinese-owned, run- 
ning mainly on inland waters, and hundreds of 
small steam-launches ply up and down the 
numerous rivers and waterways of China. These 
are manned entirely by Chinese. They are built 
and engined also by Chinese shipbuilding and 
engineering firms, which have sprung up for the 
purpose in the last few years. 

One sees the whole transition process as it 
appears to be, though perhaps not really alto- 

34S 





Transition 


gather such, in operation : there is the imitation 
of a stern-wheeler in the tread-mill man-driven 
passage-boat ; there is the steam-launch which 
carries passengers ; there is the steam-launch 
which tows one of the old-fashioned passage-boats 
crowded with passengers — all on the Canton River. 
The last arose from the opposition of mandarins ; 
but it is doubtless useful nowadays, from the 
immense number which can be carried on the 
passage-boat. 

Apart from what has happened in Peking, be- 
ginnings have been made in one or two other 
places to make the roads and streets wider ; but 
a' whole broadening and relaying of thoroughfares 
will be necessary before anything in the shape 
of vehicular tralBc can penetrate the narrow lanes 
and alleys that serve for streets in most Chinese 
cities. A broad carriage-road has for some years 
been open for traffic in Nanking, the ancient capital 
of China. In Canton a bund, or embankment 
as it is called in England, is being constructed 
along the north bank of the river ; and this is surely 
a remarkable evidence of progress. 

Railways are being constructed (see “ How John 
Chinaman Travels and where introduced are 
largely made use of by the Chinese. 

Matches have driven out the old-fashioned flint 
and steel. It was first Swedish matches which 
were imported in large numbers ; then Japan 
poured them into the country ; and now China 
is beginning to make them herself. The demand 

349 



New Life in Old China 


for them is great. The old shallow saucer of oil, 
or tumbler with a layer of oil on the top of 
water, and the rush wick, are fast going before 
the kerosene lamp, and that has not entirely ousted 
it before the electric light has established itself 
ill the streets and shops of some of the large 
cities. 

The enlightened statesman and poet So Toong^ 
poh spoke centuries ago of bringing a water-supply 
into the city of Canton, instead of relying on 
wells and the river ; but it needed the stimulus 
of contact with the West to bring the old dream 
to a reality. The author some two or three years 
ago saw water-pipes being laid under the streets 
in the black filth of the sewers for this purpose. 
Already for some years overground water-pipes, 
to convey water from the river at Canton to ex- 
tinguish fires, have been laid in the streets of 
that city, the water being pumped into them when 
necessary by steam-power from the stations on 
the river-banks built for that purpose. Previous 
to this the public wells in the streets afforded 
the supply to the small manual fire-engines used. 

Shops after the Western style are beginning 
to appear, filled with modern books, such as trans- 
lations into Chinese of scientific works as well 
as of novels. These shops are appearing cheek 
by jowl with the old shops, stored with the old 
material for acquiring Celestial lore. 

A newspaper press has been created, which is 
progressive in all of its tendencies, widely read, and 

350 



Mewspapers 


which will doubtless be more and more an exponent 
of the wishes and feelings of the people. True 
it is that China, as in so many things, took the 
lead (in the Peking Gazette^ of other nations in 
the issue of a daily sheet of Government news ; 
it is not a newspaper in the modem acceptation 
of the term, but a Government gazette. The 
modern newspaper press of China has been most 
rapid in its growth, till now many cities have their 
newspaper, and others boast of not a few. The 
illustrated paper in pamphlet fortn has also made 
its appearance ; and a wise proceeding on the 
part of ,a few newspapers is the publication of 
a portion— and of the whole paper in one or two 
cases — in the everyday speech of the people. 
Where formerly it was simply the educated people 
of the provinces who took in a copy of a reprint 
of the Government gazette, now it is a common 
sight to see a local paper in the hands of the 
ordinary shopkeeper and of the porter in a firm. 
Wherever one looks one sees the beginning of 
a new life in old China. 

Notice has already been called in the chapter 
on education to the new life which young John 
Chinaman is growing up into, with the new ideas 
and ideals of life and its purposes given him in 
the new schools, which have sprung up all over 
the Empire. 

It will be a pity, with all this material progress, 
if China copies the example of the, West in having 
enormous armies and navies. Two small navies 

351 



New Life in Old China 


have been destroyed in recent wars ; but another 
is in contemplation^ and numerous mosquito gun- 
boats may be seen lying at anchorage belonging 
to provincial authorities, and in time the old- 
fashioned war- junks will be a thing of the past. 
There is a large nucleus of a foreign-trained army 
ready for development into China’s standing army : 
so that the supersession of the old native army is 
being gradually accomplished. 

New police forces have been formed, to take 
the place of the effete bodies of soldiers whose 
duty it was to undertake such work in the past. 

And, best sign of all in the present uplift of 
China, the moral sense of the nation is now assert- 
ing itself in the determination to put an end to 
the insidious vice of opium-smoking : both the 
Government and the best sense of the people are 
at one in the matter ; and those qualified to judge 
believe that it will be done. 

One of China’s foremost statesmen is desirous 
of doing away with polygamy, which is responsible 
for much evil in China. To begin with, it gives 
to the Chinese a loose idea of the proper relation- 
ships of the sexes ; it produces no end of discord 
in family life ; it demands from the official classes 
a disproportionate expenditure and it keeps woman 
in a low position. 

The moral sense of the nation should rise against 
polygamy, which is believed to be responsible, 
amongst the other evils already named, for much 
of the bribery and corruption, as the large families 

352 



Reforms Needed 


it entails requires officials to obtain the money 
for their maintenance in some way or other. 

The first steps towards a parliament have been 
taken, and have met with great success. Constitu- 
tional government will also soon fallow. 

Much remains to be done. Only a beginning 
has been made as yet. Amongst some of the 
reforms that are clamant are the following : 
Adequate remuneration of officials should be pro- 
vided, so as to make it possible for the mandarin 
to rule in equity, without the almost irresistible 
temptation to accept bribes and pervert justice, 
and to render it unnecessary for him to resort 
to forced contributions from those under him to 
carry on these changes, and to obviate the more 
questionable methods he has to employ to provide 
the needful funds for the everyday expenditure 
his position entails. 

Domestic slavery should be done away with ; 
that system which gives rise to much cruelty, and 
provides a cloak for kidnapping and its attendant 
evils, as well as affording unwilling recruits to 
the ranks of abandoned women. A beginning has 
been made towards a betterment of this system. 

Reforms in law and justice which have been 
now and then mentioned as about to be inaugurated 
should be carried out without further delay, and 
prison reform should be more rapidly established. 

Piracy should be put down with a strong hand, 
for it renders travel unsafe, the life of the traveller 
uncertain, and destroys confidence. As auxiliary 

353 



New Life in Old China 

to thiSj the soldiers’ pay should be regular and 
certain, the construction of railways pushed on, 
to provide a rapid transit for foodstuffs in times 
of famine ; the silted-up river-beds dredged, and 
afforestation begun, to prevent the great devasta- 
tion wrought by floods. 

These are but a few of the urgent needs of 
China, a few of the urgently required reforms, 
some if not all of which are engaging, or will 
shortly engage, the best attention of the now 
thoroughly aroused and progressive Chinese. 


354 



CHAPTER XXVII 


What Missionaries Have Done for 
John Chinaman 

N othing is more natural than that such a 
country as China, occupying a twelfth of the 
habitable globe, and such a people as the Chinese, 
so full of interest in many ways, should attract the 
attention of Christendom' and suggest to it imis- 
sionary enterprise. This suggestion seems to have 
been acted upon quite early in the Christian era. 
According to the Nestorian tablet, dated a.d. 781, 
and discovered accidentally in China in 1625, rpis- 
sionaries of this Church arrived in that land in 
505, though now scarcely a trace of them is left. 
Since the year 1292, when John Corvino was 
sent to China, the Roman Catholic Church has 
made the country, more or less continuously, one 
of its fields. It has now over 1,200 European 
priests and well on for a million Chinese members. 

The first Protestant agency to be r!epresented 
in China was the London Missionary Society. 
Robert Morrison reached Canton in September, 
1807, and William Milne, his first associate, in 

SS."? 



What Missionaries Have Done 

July, 1813. A sister society, the American Board 
of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, followed 
in 1837, the Netherlands Missionary Society 
having in the meantime sent one man on to the 
field. Since that period the agents of other 
societies — British, American, and Continental — have 
settled in the land. 

At present, Protestant missionaries in the whole 
Empire number about 4,500, residing at, or itine- 
rating from, more than five hundred stations. 
From three hundred miles beyond Mukden, the 
capital of Manchuria, in the north, to Hong Kong, 
Canton, and the island of Hainan in the south, from 
Shanghai in the east to Chungking and the borders 
of Tibet in the west, it is possible in many large, 
and in some comparatively small, towns, to worship 
with Christian congregations of Chinese, led by 
their own Chinese clergy or pastors. At the same 
time there are large tracts of country which remain 
as yet untouched by missionary effort. 

The agencies employed have been most varied 
and multiplied. Medical work was started almost 
at once, educational methods were adopted^, and 
literature poured out of the press, while at the 
same time evangelistic labours were carried on. 
Thousands of books have been printed, either 
original works or translations. As opportunities 
offered and more facilities were granted, further 
efforts were made to reach those hitherto un- 
touched, such, for example, as woman’s work 
amongst the families of not only the more acces- 

356 



Ctiristian Philanthropy 

sible lower, classes of society but in the more 
secluded homes of the well-to-do. 

Of late years official life has been brought 
within the field of labour, and not a few mandarins 
have welcomed as honoured guests those whom' 
many of their predecessors would have treated 
with disdain and contempt. The desire to learn 
English and modern science has opened many a 
door iof access by which an entrance has been 
gained for the dissemination of higher truths and 
a fuller knowledge, not only of this life but of the 
life which is to come. 

Not the least interesting of the agencies 
employed are what have been styled as ‘‘ by- 
products of Christian work in China,” which 
include such objects as work for the blind, for 
lepers, for opium-smokers, for the deaf and dumb, 
for the insane, for famine relief, for the rescue 
of slave-girls, and against foot -binding and opium. 
Considering the paucity of labourers in such an 
immense field, the riesults have been surprising. 
Nor are these results only to be measured by 
the number, of communicants, which total between 
200,000 and 300,000, for the indirect results have 
been great, some patent at first sight, and others 
whose hidden forces have not revealed themselves 
fully as yet. 

As we have already noted, the, new- birth of 
this people is largely due to the missionary labours 
of more than a hundred! years. Many things are 
included in this r,eixaiss,ance of modern China, not 

357 aa 



What Missionaries Have Done 


a few of which have been pointed out in; former 
chapters. The presence of the missionary has 
had much to do with the existence of the new 
ideas which the new-born newspaper press gives 
voice to. Native hospitals have had as their pro- 
totypes mission hospitals, as well as those in 
Hong-Kong, Shanghai, and Macao. 

Confucianism has started preaching-halls in 
imitation of the street chapel. Men of prominence, 
though unconnected with mission churches, have 
felt, unknown perhaps to themselves, the influ- 
ence of Christianity on their lives and condfict, 
and the proud scholar and haughty official also, 
unconsciously to themselves, have be,en impressed 
by the sight of Christianity in their midst. The 
thirst for a modern education owes its inception 
to mission schools and the instruction there 
given. 

The taste for a new literature is not only the 
outcome of what Christianity provided through 
missionaries, but , the means to print this litera- 
ture owes its origin largely to^ missionaries : the 
first font of type was cast for Morrison's dictionary, 
and the Chinese type-case and the electrotype 
process applied to the making of the matrices 
for Chinese type were the invention of an American 
missionary. 

Even commerce, which at first thought the 
advent of the missionary would be a hindrance, 
has profited by the spread of enlightenment and 
the desire for better things which follows 

358 



Resistance to Christianity 

missionary work. Social life has improved as 
the result of the establishment of schools and 
the good influences resultant from the gathering 
together of many in churches. The desire for 
a constitutional government received its initial 
impulse from contact with the Englishman and 
American in the country, whose lives could not 
but be coloured by the influences of their home 
life in their native land, as regards political and 
social ideals. 

Therefore in estimating what Christianity and 
missions have done and are doing for China and 
the Chinese, mere statistics and figures are not 
sufficient to give a full and complete idea of the 
past results, the present progress, and the future 
prospects. 

The progress of Christianity in China has not 
been as rapid as in some mission fields. Indeed 
the obstacles to the introduction of any faith 
propagated by foreigners were inevitably such as 
to make the spread of the new religion a matter 
of peril, and its progress necessarily and com- 
paratively slow. At various periods in the distant 
past the representatives of Christian missions were 
expelled from the country. In modem times wide- 
spread violence, such as that at the Boxer Rising 
of 1900, and local outbreaks such as that which 
wrought death to the girl martyrs of Ku-cheng, 
have illustrated these dangers and difficulties. A 
new period, however, opened with the gfeat 
Reform Movement now so widely felt throughout 

359 



What Missionaries Have Done 


China. This movement produced a new attitude 
towards foreign teachers and foreign teaching. As 
the science and literature of the West came into 
demand, it was necessary to find teachers who 
understood it and could make its treasures acces- 
sible to the Chinese learner. The lead thus given 
by authority and by persons of learning affected, 
naturally enough, the general attitude of the 
population. 

The change has been, of course, most favour- 
able to the advancement of Christianity, although 
perhaps naturally it produced new dangers. For 
whilst there began a more general disposition to 
read the literature of Christianity, there also 
became accessible, especially to the learned, litera,- 
ture which attacked Christianity. In nothing, how- 
ever, has the advance of Christian propaganda 
under the new conditions been more remarkable 
than in the development of Christian literature 
work. The Bible Societies have also rendered 
great service by publishing and circulating trans- 
lations of the Holy Scriptures. The British and 
Foreign Bible Society, which published Morrison 
and Milne's translation of the New Testament as 
early as 1814, has now nineteen Chinese versions 
on its list, and of these versions it has published 
over 18,500,000 copies. The American Bible 
Society has published, since the commencement 
of its work in 1843, about 12,000,000 copies in 
some twelve different versions ; whilst the National 
Bible Society of Scotland, which also publishes 

360 



Tract Society Work 

several versions, has issued over 1 1,000,000 copies. 
By far the larger part of these books have been 
single Gospels and other separate books of the 
Bible. These have been circulated in all the 
provinces by means of Chinese colporteurs and 
by itinerating missionaries, whilst depots for the 
sale of Bibles and Testaments are to be found 
in many of the principal cities. 

Early in the nineteenth century the Religious 
Tract Society of London began, at the request of 
Morrison, to produce Christian tracts in Chinese. 
The work thus originated has long been locally 
organised through Tract and Book Societies 
planted at Peking, Shanghai, Hankow, Canton, 
Hong Kong, Chungking and Mukden. In addition, 
the Christian Literature Society, with its head- 
quarters at Shanghai, has, by books and periodicals, 
made a wide appeal to the minds, more especially, 
of the reading public in China. 

How far or for how long these developments will 
be permitted it is impossible to say. In China, 
more perhaps than in any other land, it is the 
unexpected which happens. The fact, however, 
only lays the more emphasis upon the opportunity 
offered to Christendom in a field both unique in 
its extent and in its possibilities. 


361 



INDEX 


Abuse, personal, 189 
Acquisitiveness, 240 
Adaptability, 70 
All Souls' Day," 29 
Amoy language, the, 136 
Ancestral halls, 22 
homes, 306 
tablets, 22 
worship, 24 
Arithmetic, 264 
Arnold, Matthew, quoted, 251 
Atmosphere of towns, 170 


B.A. DEGREE, the, 277 
Babas, 67 
Babies, 77 

Bamboo, punishment with the> 
121 

Barbarians, 5 
Barbers, 15 
Bargaining, 285 
Beards, 15 
Bedrooms, 304 
Beliefs, native, 331 


Bible Societies, work of, 360 
Bicycles, 218 
Births, ceremony at, 75 
Boat population, 199 
Boat-women, 210 
Book-hawkers, 218 
Book of Mencius, quoted, 252 
Books, 78 

Books, ancient, 263 

Bottles, 243 

Braces and bits, 319 

Breakfast, 167 

Breeches, 235 

Bribery, 108 

Buddhism, 9, 337 

Buddhist monks, travels of, 208 

Burials, 28 

Buttons, 99, 100 


Calls of ceremony, 313 
Cangue, the, 123 
Cantonese language, 134, 136 
Capital punishments, 120 
Carving, 318 



Index 


Cash, a coin, 239 
Caste, absence of, iii 
Cats as food, 165 
Chair-carrying, 215 
Chair-coolies, 316 
Changes, tendency to, 97 
Chang Chow massacre, the, 
126 

Character of the people, 61, 

64, 66, 

Chaucer quoted, 14 
Cheapness of food, 250 
Chess, 314 
Children, 72 

desire for, 49 
Child-labour, 327 
Children’s songs, 78 
Chimneys, 38 

China Steam Navigation Com- 
pany, 209 
Chisels, 319, 322 
Chopsticks, 160 
Christian literature, spread of 
361 

Christianity, progress of, 360 
Cities, condition of, 96 
Clanship, 23 
Classics, 48, 186 

character of, 188 
quoted, 252 

Clothes, old, use of, 244 
Clothing, 7, 225 
Coal, 7 
Coast-line, 2 

Coffins, trouble about, 42 
use of old, 246 
Coifiure, women’s, 19 


Coins, 239 

Cold and heat in disease, 177 
Collars, 225 
Colour of clothing, 229 
Comfort, absence of, 306 
Communicants, number of, 387 
Concessions, foreign, 345 
Concubines, 46, 54 
Confucius, 89 
Congee, 162 

Cooking, mode of, 165, 168 
Coolies, 326 
Corruption, official, 108 
Corvino,' John, 355 
Courtyards, 303 
Cowper quoted, 306 
Crime, 122 
Curio-dealers, 218 

Dead, influence of, 21, 28 
Degradation from office, 114 
Diet, native, 6 
Dinner, customs at, 163 
Disease, diagnosis of, 175 
Divination, 43 
Divorce, 55 
Doctors, 172, 182 
Dogs as food, 165 
Doors, 301 

Dragon Boat Feast, the, 280 
Drainage, 246 
Dress of mandarins, 99 
Drink, 158 
Druggists’ shops, 181 
Drugs, the foreign, 144 
Drunkenness, 166 
Dynasties, the ancient, 91 



Index 


Ear-rings, 237 
Education, 78, 262 
changes in, 272 
history of, 271 
Educational reform, 187 
Elimination of words, 138 
Emigration, 61, 64 
Emigration, spread of, 260 
Emperor, the first, 91 
Employment of women, 314 
Entrance- halls, 301 
Excursion boats, 204 
Extravagance, marriage, 55 


Fans, mandarins’, 104 
Farming, 324 
Fashions, 236 

Father’s power over his chil- 
dren, 73 

Ferry-boats, 202 
Feudal age, 9, 90 
Fiction, 190 
Figures, use of, 264 
Filial piety, 24 
Fish, 7 

abundance of, 207 
sellers of, 283 
Fishing-smacks, 207 
Five Classics,” the, 94 
Flesh-eating in disease, 179 
Floating traders, 201 
Flower-boats, 205 
Food, 158 

in prisons, 119 
Foot-warmers, 305 
Footwear, 234 


Foreign marriages, danger of, 
310 

Foundling hole at Chow Chow 
Fu, 74 

Fruit-trees, 169 
Fuel, 7 
Fu-hsi, 89 
Fung-Shui, 32 
Funeral processions, 294 
Furniture, 247 


Gala-days, 315 
Gambling, 314 
Gardens, 288 

Gemmeous Ruler, the, 334 
Geography, study of, 265 
Geomancy, 36 
Ghosts, belief in, 331 
Giants, belief in, 88 
God of Fire, the, 333 

of the Locality, the, 336 
of Thunder, story of, 241 
Goddess of Lightning, story of, 
241 

Goddess of Mercy, the, 334 
Government, 8, 113 
Graduates, number of, 277 
Grass as fuel, 169 
Grave at Chao chow fu, 21 
Graves, position of, 28 
influence of, 

Great Learning^ quoted, 47 
Great Wall, 329 
Guide to Knowledge^ quoted, 
267 

Guilds, 324 



Index 


Hades, Ten Courts of, 338 
Hair, 12 
boys’, 20 
women’s, 19 
Hairpins, 238 
Hakka language, the, 136 
Hakkas, the, 15 
Hand-labour, 321 
Hats, 237 

Historical books, 94 
History of the past, 86 
Houses, 38 

cleaning of, 300 
description of, 298 
Horses, scarcity of, 321 
Houseboats, 203 
Hwang- ti, 89 

IDEOGRAPHY of language, 191 
Idol festivals, 339 
processions, 295 
Illiteracy, 141 
Image-maker, paper, 81 
Immorality, 59, 63 
Indoor life, 297 
Infant mortality 84 
Infanticide, 72 
Irrigation, 247 
Islands, 2 
Isolation, 4 

Jackets, 225 
Jade ornaments, 237 
Jealousy, 56 
Jinrickshaws, 2x2 
Junks, 207 


Keeoo, 138 

Kindness to children, 76 
Kings of the Ghosts, courts of, 

30 

Kissing, 54 
Knickerbockers, 234 

Ladders, 321 
Languages,, 13 1 
study of, 264 
Lantern processions, 296 
Lanterns, 299 
Lao-tsz, 90 

Tsz, quoted, 253 
Laundrying, 233 
Laws, II 6 
Lay She-Chun, 174 
Leprosy, 56 
Libations, 332 
Libraries, 197, 312 
Literati, iii 
Literature, 8 
Lo Tsz, 9 
Long robes, 230 
Luggage, 213 
Lunch, 167 

Macao dialects, the, 142 
Malay States, Chinamen in the, 
67 

Malays, 67 

Manchus, conquest by the, 13 
Manchuria, wild tribes of, 4 
Mandarins, 99 
dress of, 231 
tenure of office, 112 



Index 


Mandarins {continued ) — 
pomp of, 103 
processions of, 291 
the language, 112 
Marco Polo, 10 
Marine-hawkers, 243 
Marketing, 282 
Marriage processions, 292 
Marriage by proxy, 57 
Marriages, 26, 45, 310 
Marrying the dead, 58 
Massacres, 126 
Massage, 17 
Mat sheds, 320 
Matches, 349 
Materia Medica, the, 174 
Maturity, age of, 59 
Meals, manners at, 160, 312 
Medical Students, 183 
writers, 173 

Medicines, peculiar, x8o 
Melon seeds, 163 
Memory, use of, 266 
Mencius, 90 

Middle dialects, the, 138 
Military mandarins, power of, 
107 

Middle Kingdom, the, i 
Milk, 166 
Milk-names, 75 
Milne, William, 355 
Missions, prejudice against, 341 
history of, 355 

Mohammedan rebellions, 127 
Moles on the face, 16 
Monasteries, 340 
Morality, 56, 6t, 63 


Morrison, Robert, 355 
Mothers- in-law, 53 
Mountains, 2 
Mourning, 18, 300, 308 
Moustaches, 15 
Mutton, 165 

Names, 76 
Naval uniform, 114 
Navigation, river, 204 
Navy, 351 
Nestorians, 355 
New Year, the, 80 
Newspapers, 198, 350 
Novels, 93 
Nunneries, 340 
Nursery songs, 78 

Ocean Dragon King, the, 334 
Odes, use of, 192 
Odes for Children^ quoted, 268 
‘^Oh ! Cord of Thoughts of 
Love," quoted, 195 
Oil-men, 283 
Old custom," 24 
Opium, smoking, 148 
effects of, 152 
history of, 145 
question, the, 144 
statistics of, 155 
Outdoor life, 280 

Pagoda, story of a, 36 
Paper offerings, 29 
Parasites, 232 

367 



Index 


Passage-boats, 206 
Patience of woirkers, 316 
Patriotism, 346 
Penal code, the, 116 
Physicalfeatures of the country, 

I 

Pickle-hawker, the, 83 
Pillars, trouble about, 43 
Ping-pom man, the, 80 
Pirates, 224 
Planes, 319 

Pleasures of coolies, 327 
Poems quoted, 193 
Poetry, 191, 192 
Police, 352 
Polygamy, 45 
Poon Kwu, a giant, 88 
Population, 3 

on the waters, 199 
Pork, 162 
Poverty, 244, 323 
Printing, use of, 189 
Prisons, 119 
Processions, 290 
Promotion in office, 114 
Protestant missionaries, num- 
ber of, 356 

Pulse, examination of the, 176 
Punishments, 120 
outdoor, 291 
Purgatory, 30 

Queues, 13 
Rafts, 210 

Railways, 10, 212, 223 


Railways, opposition to, 34 
Rats as food, 165 
Rebellions, 124 
Reform, progress of, 342 
Religion, 8 

Religious Tract Society, work 
of, 361 

Restaurants, 162 
Rice, 159 

Rice-field worms, 166 
Rice fish, 283, 325 
Roads, 219 
Robbers, 224 
Robes of mandarins, 99 
Roman Catholics, 355 
Routes to China, 10 


Sailors, 208 
Sampans, 200 
Saws, 319 

Scaffold-builders, 320 
Scent, 20 
Scholarship, 220 
Schools, 78, 276 
Sedan-chairs, 216 
Self-centred, 5 
Sewerage, 246 
Sexagenary Cycle, the, 338 
Shaving, 16 
Shen-nung, 89 
Shoes, 235 
Shops, 279 

Shrimp-catcher, the, 202 
Shun, a sage, 89 
Shuttlecocks, 287 
Siberian Railway, lO 

368 



Index 


Silver currency, 249 
Slave-girls, 83 
Small-pox, 85 
Smoke, 171 
Smuggling, 205 
So Toong-poh, 193, 350 
Souls, the three, 22 
Spires, objection to, 40 
Spirits, belief in, 331 
Spoons and forks, 162 
Steamers, 209 
Steeples, objection to, 40 
Stockings, 234 
Street cries, 215 
Street-sellers, 284 
Streets, appearance of, 216 
Stools, 308 
Strangulation, 120 
Students, 71 
Sweetmeats, 82 
Swords, loi 


Tax Ping rebellion, the, 124 
Tao Teh King, quoted, 253 
Taoism, 337 

Telegraphs, opposition to, 33 

Temples, 337 

Tenure of office, 112 

Theatricals, 281 

lliings Chinese^ quoted, 190 

Thriftiness, 326 

Tigers, 32 

Tibet, 4 

To Find a Heart that’s True,” 
quoted, 194 
Tolerance, 337 


Tombs, worship at, 28 
Tones in language, 136 
Tools, 319 
Torture, 12 x 

Tower at the City of Fragrant 
Hills, 35 
Toys, 79 

Transmigration of souls, 30 
Travel, modes of, 212 
Travellers, 71 

Treaty ports, China, men in 
the, 69 

Trees, destruction of, 168 
Troubles of official life, 105 
Trousers, 225 
Tsun Shih Hwang, 90 
Tung Chi, Emperor, burial of, 
41 


Vaccination, 85 
Vegetables, 284 
Vegetarians, 165 
Vendettas, 128 
Vices, 63 

Voyagers, ancient, ii 

Waiacing, delight in, 286 
War, ancient views of, 252 
'^Warrior Bold, A,” quoted, 

193 

Wars, feudal, X90 
Washing, 233 
Waste, hatred of, 241 
Water-supply, 350 
Weddings, 50 



Index 


Wheelbarrow, 221 
Whipping, public, 123 
Widows, 58 
Wine, 166 

Wives, position of, 45 
Women abroad, 67 
dress of, 235 
Wood as fuel, 169 
Wooden collar, the, 123 
Work of mandarins, 105 
Workmen, 316 
Worship at tombs, 28 


Writing, reverence of, 227, 248 
Wu Tsuy quoted, 254 

Yang Tsz Kiang, the, i 
Yau, a sage, 89 
Yeep, Viceroy, 104 
Yellow jacket the, 10, 233 
Peril, the, 256 
River, the, i 
Yong, 177 
Yii, a sage, 89 
Yum, 177 


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